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Pun intended. Last October, I bought a 2016 Octavia hatchback, 1.4 TSI DSG (SE-L trim level). It was on just 28000 miles and is a fantastic car. Lovely torquey engine, smooth gearbox, lots of space, comfy seats and good speakers. The ride/handling compromise was never exactly how I wanted it though, but it was better than my previous Astra J SRI estate. The first thing I did was get new tyres fitted. Michelin Primacy 4’s all around. Improved grip, handling and road noise. Nice. Set the pressure at 32 psi in the back and 34 in the front for good handling feel without being too firm. Suspension I was never that keen on how the rear suspension dealt with bumps. It was a bit crashy and jiggly, particularly at higher speeds. From a bit of research, it sounded like Golf shocks were a good way to fix this. I fitted a pair of Sachs 1.6 tdi Golf shocks to the back. This removed all crashiness but it still felt a bit wallowy. I wasn’t satisfied with this, so I bought Bilstein B4’s for all 4 corners and had them fitted. Wow! So much better than the Sachs ones. I decided against changing the springs to avoid any potential negative impact on ride quality. The Bilstein shocks were slightly stiffer than OEM/Sachs but barely noticeable. The ride is completely transformed and feels like that of a larger car. It feels very planted and stable, especially at high speed. There is noticeably less body roll and the steering feels nice and sharp. They made an incredible difference to the car and I would highly recommend them. The ride no longer causes me any bother and feels like a car should out of the factory. Worth every penny of the £500 or so to buy them plus get them fitted. Alignment I was always convinced that the alignment job on my car when the new tyres were fitted made the car feel less stable at high speed than it previously did. Always seemed a bit fidgety. 20 minutes at Wheel Alignment Solutions in Southampton and my steering feels back to normal and the car settled at speed – it had too far much positive toe. Now it’s great at motorway speed, but the wind still blows it around a bit due to it being a light car. Remap In 2021, I had my Astra mapped at Mapro in Portsmouth. They took the 2.0 CDTi up to 205hp and about 450nm. The relentless torque and power delivery from that engine was quite something, especially at full chat in 2nd or 3rd. I’ll always miss the way that car drove but commuting and driving in traffic often made me decide on an auto petrol as the next car. I knew the effects of a map would be less extreme on a 1.4 petrol, but still worth doing. Mapro took it up to 183hp and 294NM. The characteristics of it are much the same – it revs out fantastically and has a huge surge of low end torque. It’s very happy to get to the national speed limit without any fuss. The effects of the map are less prominent than with a 2.0 diesel but it’s still great fun now. Insulation and cosmetic purchases: My car was never especially noisy as it’s a hatch and on 205/55/16 tyres – I understand people with estates and larger wheels get more noise. But I figured I’d also give some sound deadening a go. A 30 pack of 180mm x 250mm silent coat covered the entire boot/spare wheel well and a large area below the rear seat bench. This cost £30 and a couple of hours time and has made a small difference to the noise, not that it was much bother to begin with. I also replaced the wheel bolt covers as they were manky looking and am about to install some plastic Skoda branded door sill protectors which were £40. In summary, the Octavia is a great car to start with and the average person probably wouldn’t have any qualms with it. But I’m an enormous perfectionist and now the car is even better! I don’t really want to dwell on how much I have invested on all of this but it’s about £1250. I hope this helps anyone who is looking to make their Octavia a little nicer. Please fire away any questions!

So surely you should be welcoming Graham's interrogation of the data and news items? There are clearly many false statements being made on both sides of the fence... so a balanced discussion is needed, as opposed to a one sided evangelical 'do as I say' approach. Perhaps you should try to convince Graham rather than belittling him for his point of view and for not sharing your personal opinion on the matter??

Hello all, I recently replaced my parents car with their 3rd Fabia, a very nice 21 plate SEL DSG estate. Cracking bit of kit. So I've "inherited" their old car a Navy Blue 2011 Fabia 2 1.2 "S" 60. I needed a runaround as I was waiting for my new car to arrive, so took it on, and thought I'd fix the niggles and get it ready to sell on. But to be honest, it's a cracking little car, been parked by touch over the past few years by my ageing parents but with only 50k miles, but drives great, is totally anonymous, and the perfect antidote to the other cars in the household and known by all as the Super Skoda. So far its had...... A new spare key - the original blade had snapped A replacement fuel filler cover - my dad had walked in to the original and snapped it Drivers door loom - windows and central locking weren't working, snapped wires in the hinge area. Drivers door window switch - my mis-diagnosis of the above Fan resistor pack - common fault on VAG cars of this age. Fan had 2 speeds off and full tilt, now all 4 work Service pack - plugs, oil, fuel, air and pollen filters New Bosch aero wipers 2 rear tyres (how much!) Failed MOT New front pipe and flexi Gaskets, rubber mounts and copper nuts for above New Mot Will give it a machine polish to try and remove some of the grazes it has and to clean it up a bit - but it won't get any paint, it's too honest a car. Hope that's it for the time being, let's see how long it lasts before its moved on, but at the moment its fitting in quite nicely into the routine of the household! the forum so far has been invaluable to fixing the issues so far - a great reference point. Keep it up all!!

And they didn't even manage to check the horn, despite it being one of the few things on the list! 😆

Good

Wife or mirror?

I spotted this morning in under 1 mile 6 cars and 1 van clamped. I assume no VED, expired MOT or maybe no insurance. So done by the DVLA or their contractor. This is the first i have seen these clamps used or actually anything clamped in Scotland for many years.

The parking sensors might be a red herring, but a dodgy ABS sensor will throw up the other errors for sure. Best get that diagnostic!

It's been reported a number of times in the local press but through my work I've also seen local monitoring and AQ modelling data. To keep up the 'about me' I'm a Chartered Civil Engineer with a general engineering Masters from Cambridge University. I have over 33 years experience of the design and construction of projects ranging from flood defences, water supply and drainage schemes to concrete and steel structures but mostly in highway design and construction, transport planning and environmental impact assessments.

I blame the hysterical tyres!

I think Skoda UK and the dealers were in an untenable position, there was so much information around that the belt didn't need changing at 5yrs that they were forced to come into line. The fact that the procedure for the 1.5 ACT was so complicated and needed specialist equipment and trained techs probably helped make up their minds! In reality the procedure for the 1.5 ACT was really only designed to be used when the camshaft had been removed e.g head off , probably because the belt was never designed to be routinely replaced!!

Absolutely welcome the chance to put the record straight, that is a great part of BRISKODA which I have been a member for almost twenty years. Correcting information is not discussion ie about EV braking. Graham does make a good point, or points about other pollution other than transport though. As we relatively push down the pollution from Transport, not just CO2 but NOX and PMs, but this is only about a quarter of air pollution so the other sources of air pollution need to be tackled ie domestic and industrial pollution and even agricultural pollution lastly I suppose. The point about EV's not doing much of any brakes using brake pads or shoes is not a personal opinion but a fact of what EV driver and vehicles do and therefore is not part of debate but an element of education of to what actually occurs and I am always happy to spread the truth on that. EVs may wear through tyres quickly, though EV makes seem to giulty sometimes of supply car with "EV" tyres with less tread on them, naughty naughty. Some EVs use to use, and even still do but less so, use rare earth metals in both the batteries and the motors, thankfully this is rapidly being phased out. EVs, 30 kW Nissan maybe excepted, look like they will have long service lifes, much against some rag publications and mis informed rumour mills. Great to have a forum to correct these misunderstandings.

Yep, thought so, you're clearly 'lacking' (Dunno what in mind ) Gaz

Out of curiosity, do you know Graham well enough to make such a statement? Fair play if you do. But otherwise it doesn't seem very nice, and adds nothing to a quite interesting thread. I actually think everyone makes good comments from all perspectives, which brings a nice bit of balance. How I was taught too - cadence braking was it referred to at the time? (My memory fails me once again). My Golf still catches me out from time to time, as I start gentle braking and the car decides to assist me, leaving any passengers wondering WTF I'm up to as we go into unnecessary braking. Gaz

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Yes, I know I will, even those people who hate EV infrastructure or the lack of it 😉 and say that they're going back to ICE when the time comes, all say that they absolutely love the instant oomph that the EV has. I had a Qashqai hybrid for almost 2 months when my mk2 got written off, and I was amazed at the oomph that gave me, but I also hated that occasionally it would, when I was stopping and trying to come to a nice smooth controlled stop, it would give a sudden forward jolt as I was applying less brake pedal pressure. This is how I was taught to drive by a bus driver, in order to use the brakes as little as possible, use the engine braking effect, to give your passengers as smooth a ride as possible. I just don't think that EV is the magic bullet that is cracked up to be. I've been a lifelong chronic Asthma sufferer and have been used to carrying round with me, 2 inhalers, neither of which I have not had to either use or indeed carry with me now for years as the air quality honestly has improved that much that I now have zero signs of any Asthma, even when I'm right inside the central zones of London. Hence why I was saying about being a cash cow and this global interactive live map of the air quality of countries and their cities and is zoomable right down to street level clearly shows that the UK air is good but laces like India for example need to take action to improve theirs. Air Pollution in World: Real-time Air Quality Index Visual Map (aqicn.org)

@J.R.Drum brakes on the rear of the Skoda EV,s. The brake pad wear with the disc brakes really is from cleaning the rust off them.

Leave the shocks as well, bet they still work fine.

Well I did just that as the nice service chap phoned me and we just had a chat about the missing items on the tick sheet. In relation to that question he said they plug the machine in but don't print out the report and it was all OK - (gov - trust me... 😉 of course I have to as they are the experts) Now it got pretty interesting re the Body Work inspection and he said it was a German thing and not done in the UK hence not on the tick sheet. I pointed out that it was a German(ish) car and perhaps it should be as I am paying for an inspection in the "All in One" package and I would not want a warranty claim denied if I did not get what I had paid for. He realised that perhaps what he had just said was suspect and a bit of a logic trap and said he would do some more checking before I went down a route of chatting with VWFS who I have a contract with to see ifd I should expect a UK dealer to carry out a full Body Inspection. I await his call back... 😉 BTW - The reason for investing my spare time to do this is 1. I have spare time and 2. we need to ensure that we truly do get what the marketing blurb says we will when we sign up for contracts and only by asking akward questions do we hold companies to account. I am also truly interested in what other folk get from other garages - We have already had one lucky chap get the Brake Fluid FOC where I just paid £75 for that on the same "All in One" package...

Might be me not fully understanding your question but: 1. Full vehicle Road test - they ticked the box to say this was done. 2. Diagnostics - pretty obvious they ran diagnostics ( and crossing their fingers it would report a fault that needed £££s to fix ) 3. The tick sheet says they've tested the lights etc. If garages find something wrong with my cars then I want to know about it, but I don't see the point in a detailed report saying things are working perfectly well. A receipt and a stamp in the service book ( virtual or otherwise ) is my main goal. My tick sheets are a little longer than that but it means nothing to me. The dealers always write down the specific oil they used which I like. At the end of the day, all I'm after is a receipt and a stamp in the virtual service book to say the dealer carried out the correct service and to be notified of any problems.

Good + 1 Nice and visible as well plus the sharing on social media should maximise the effect.

Glowplugs are used all year round and for more than just cold starts. they are used for cylinder heating for emissions and also for post combustion heating to assist with dpf regenerations. Quite a few uses for a glow plug on a new diesel engine. depending on the engine it’s also worth noting you have 1 glow plug different to the rest with a pressure sensor on it

Don't expect much improvement if any just from changing fuels. Comparisons are so difficult! There can be differences between individual vehicles which are otherwise identically specified but more likely it is due to the driving environment and individual driving styles. I suspect that @AlanOsborne is also a far more accomplished "hypermiler" than he is letting on Differences between my wife and I driving the same car: a) highway, speed limit, no traffic - we get the same consumption b) highway with traffic - I'll get 10 to15% better c) urban driving conditions then I'll get about 30% better consumption. Hopefully my wife doesn't read this post.

Have you got your phone videoing with torch on up above the pedal to see if there's anything obvious? It might help identify where it's from.

AC should be left on all the time. it is air conditioning so it cools, cleans and dehumidifies the air. auto will regulate the fan speed and flap positions to maintain the temperature you have asked for. Generally it should be always on auto and ac

Auto will also change where the air is directed to. AC will also help dehumidify the cabin. I would suggest leaving both turned on and altering the temperature as required

No its not ok. As a design engineer you should appreciate that accelerometers are affected by inclination (due to gravity) and rotation so simply can not be applied as you describe in a car without the assistance of a 3 axis gyroscope and some nifty software. Simpler and more accurate to measure speed directly and derive acceleration from that. In any case, if your wheels are locked up or skidding, or you are travelling down a hill, towards a corner, illuminated brake lights convey important information to following traffic even before any significant reduction in your speed occurs.

I believe the brake lights do come on when ACC applies brakes to reduce speed. At least they do on my Superb.

Ironically I’ve had Michelin CrossClimates, which are all seasons, on my past three cars and recently fitted them to my Karoq and have never experienced sidewall cracking (ooh er missus 😏)

Very tidy.

Hi Guys fitted the new pulley to the compressor today a perfect fit,below are a couple of photos,thanks to everybody who replied

Seems to have been common problem for those who used summer tyres during last Decembers extremely cold weather when temperatures of -8c or below were common. Modern summer tyre compounds are quite hard to give good Eco performance, and at those cold temperatures tyres go hard and will crack under load, you might not notice the tiny cracks at first, but once they have started, the surface cracks will grow. Some might waffle about sun and UV damaging the tyres, but myself and others I know who swap to winter tyres have summer tyres that are upto 6 years old without any cracks, but others who didn't swap are seeing cracks on summer spec tyres under 2 years old, rather suggests the damage is mainly done by leaving summer tyres on in cold weather, then using the car. If our summer tyres only used in months of strong sun don't crack, then clearly the sun isn't main cause of cracking. All season and winter tyres have series of slit like grooves to avoid the surface being stressed to cracking point when cold. You won't have experienced it few years ago, because the compound was more mixed season, but now manufacturers have all season ranges, they have made summer tyres more summer like (because Eco fuel economy is prime requirement nowadays). Simple solution, buy all season tyres next time.

Just as a quick aside to these discussions, the worst areas in Sheffield for pollution are Arundel Gate and Sheaf Street - the former as it is a main bus thoroughfare (cars only allowed in one direction due to bus gates) and the latter due to proximity to the rail station and train lines. I believe the same applies to Oxford Street in London that is bus only. The M1 speed reduction for air quality mentioned in earlier posts was a trial to see whether it had an impact - the results are still awaited but data I have seen suggests the impact has been minimal. As for the Sheffield CAZ it is quite clear from its geography and the business case that it was taken forward in preference to other options because of the money it would bring in through charges for the Local Authority - the business case shows huge dis-benefits associated with the scheme in multiple assessment criteria.

Yes 12v dc on each side of the fuse.

We are soon to say a sad goodbye to our 2006 Toyota Previa and so needed something that had a good sized load space and the Octavia fitted the bill perfectly. Really looking forward to its arrival. :-)

Based on that, it's most likely the GPS antenna isn't working or connected... A map update won't help. As for android auto, I assume you mean the mobile signal dropped out rather than the connection between the phone and headunit? If you're using Google maps via AA, you can download areas to ensure mapping always works regardless of signal. You may lose traffic information but the directions should still work.

I've emailed Borbet customer service to ask why they are certified differently. Their first reply was yes V has ABE+ECE and the Y only has ABE certification. I responded to ask them "why" the Y doesn't have ECE certification. I've tried to find the relevant information on nonOEM tyres officially in Switzerland but I need to compare the type approval on the cars registration form (when the car is first registered) against the wheel certificate info. I'll ask my colleague for his approval code & post back when I've compared it. Gabbo

VW issued a bulletin years ago telling dealers that a light misting on shocks was OK - apparently dealers were changing them under warranty. Slightly weirdly while our Tiguan was in at 7yrs old/ 35K miles having a failed glow plug replaced under All In the dealer also replaced the rear shocks. The apparantly told VW they were leaking so All In covered them. I looked at the video they sent, and then back at the one from the service 8 mths prior, and they looked exactly the same yet weren't even commented on at service. They nearly always mentioned rust / lip on the edges of the discs, but added that the pads were fine. So I took that as warming me up for insisting the discs must be replaced when the pads wore out.

I'm in East Sussex, and changed a while ago to Michelin Crossclimate 2's: As noted in that thread I won't be going for all season tyres again, as with the climate and driving conditions I experience, the PS4's on our other car outperform the CC2's - in my opinion. Gaz

When you try to restart what happens? The starter turns the engine but the engine doesn't start? Nothing at all? Do you have the normal dash lights when trying to start? Have you checked that the battery terminals are tightening correctly?

@wyx087 Look, we both make some good points that reflect how we use the vehicles, and we keep on scoring points off each other till the cows come home so I'm not going to continue this path other than to say that going full on EV adoption will just add yet more damage to the earth in addition to the oil wells, which we will still need in addition to the other resources for EV's as we still need plastics which are derived from oil, we still need grease and lubrication oils which are also by products from the production of petrol and diesel. Therefore, what are we going to use petrol and diesel for in the future? Does it not make sense to continue using it like we do now, but carry on looking for ways to use it more effectively, so we use less of it to achieve the same result and also find ways to eradicate the harmful emissions without adding more problems. Just managing to use less with the same results is a major win because that also means less emissions at the same time.

I have done some of that 🤣

Personal choice as in home owner get to choose between gas cooker or electric cooker to improve indoor air quality. The idea is that electric powered cooking are centralised and can be cleaned up in due course. Right now 4pm-7pm cooking is mostly gas powered due to peak in demand and gas power plants can react quickly. This is less efficient than just burning gas at point of use. But as higher percentage of electricity is generated by renewables, the green house gas produced by cooking will be reduced. The idea of shifting pollution get to be applied to EV as well, but people often forget, with batteries, one is not limited in power source. Batteries are energy storage, they don't need to be re-energised at a constant rate. We can and should use it as a sink for excess renewables. For example, I'm charging from my roof-top solar from ~9:15. The charge rate closely tracks solar production in today's windy and mixed day: Rubber wear - same across all vehicles, variable is weight. Properly designed BEV doesn't weigh more than ICE. For example Tesla Model Y at under 2T vs other large SUV with similar interior space. Brake pads - yes, they do contribute in terms of particulate pollution. But at same time, EV's mostly do regen braking. So is guaranteed to generate less particulate matter than any electrified ICE car with a tiny battery. Larger battery EV's can do regen braking at over 100 kW. Meaning it can brake harder than typical small ICE can accelerate. It is still not enough to stop in time for emergency (hence friction brake are still installed), but it can be relied upon for pretty much all normal driving, even enthusiastic ones. Mining/extraction/transport/manufacturing pollution - There's also massive amount of pollution for oil exploration, extraction, refinery and finally distribution for a one-time consumable! On the other hand, the higher initial vehicle production emissions are offset during use. The production emissions are "paid back" in as low as 20 thousand km according to some studies. At end of life in a vehicle, the batteries are still useful in stationary applications. Finally, the rare earth materials can be recycled. Fact checks: https://www.epa.gov/greenvehicles/electric-vehicle-myths https://www.carbonbrief.org/factcheck-how-electric-vehicles-help-to-tackle-climate-change/ Breakthrough may be just around the corner, but what breakthrough are there that are ready for huge mass adoption within a few years? The key question is, who really benefits when the transition to clean energy is delayed by waiting for the best solution? (fossil fuel industry) Who really benefits when we delay transition to renewables because UK have no way to store the excess production? (gas supplying entities)

Not ever going to, or have I disputed that, but the fact still remains that they have brakes, and they do get used to varying degrees, as does my ICE car as it also has regenerative braking. So did my previous car and when we parted company at almost 80,000 miles in 9.5 years, it was only on its 2nd set of pads and original discs. Regenerative braking is good, but it can't slow a car quick enough to avoid accidents due to others actions on the road. So no I'm not lacking in knowledge, but I'm a realist and accept the facts that are there in full view for everyone to see. It is becoming increasingly clear that EV cars carry a significant fire hazard with them and I understand that some residential buildings in London area at least will not allow them into their underground car parks due to the insurance companies will not provide cover. Repair centres for EV cars that have been involved in accidents are being told by insurers that they must now store EV vehicles awaiting repairs, outside in the open air and at least 15 metres away from other structures or vehicles. Hydrogen vehicles are also not the answer as they also carry a huge fire and explosion risk, and a hydrogen explosion is hugely destructive, many times more so than a current petrol vehicle. I used to think that EV was the way forward until I looked into it more and I now I see that it is not the solution either but one thing for sure, I do believe that we will stumble upon something that will be far better than anything we currently have if we keep working on it.

remote - from the key fob. I'm new to this... the key fob has to be pressed quickly twice to open the other doors, to be honest never really tried this before the replacement loom was fitted, and had to use the key before I replaced the loom. Works fine now. Was shocked at the state of the loom in the rubber bellows. Aside from the broken wires, there were others where the insulation had broken and the copper core showing. Ok the car is 12 years old but has only done 50k miles. I have the "S" so has none of the fripperies the higher spec models have - just front electric windows and central locking, but the loom I received had all of the connections for the other accessories on it for the price.

Well, not all Fins are driving according to speed limits. I was visiting Finland last summer for holiday. Drove all the way from Poland. Was driving according to speed limits (TA was helping here ) and usually was one of the slowest ones on the road

It's most likely a MIB2.5 Amundsen unless it's been upgraded. Can you add a picture of the headunit to aid with identification? You should be able to factory reset the entire unit using this method, The video is likely an older version but should be a similar process, it's definitely a good starting point. Please can you be more descriptive. What happens when you connect your phone - are there any prompts or messages on your phone or the radio screen?

The Octavia MK3 uses XTREME 7.5Jx19 ET51 5/112 57.1 alloy rims. The Octavia MK4 doesn't use EXTREME alloy rims because the offset is not correct. The Octavia MK4 uses 7.5Jx19 ET48 5/112 57.1 rims. Also note that the Octavia MK4 uses bigger outside diameter 225/40R19 rather than the 225/35R19 on the Octavia MK3. The Octavia MK2 uses 18" rims with a specification of 7.5Jx18 ET51 5/112 57.1, so you could use the 7.5Jx19 ET51 5/112 57.1 EXTREME rims on the Octavia MK2. Bear in mind, that the very low sidewall height of the 235/35R19 tyre size makes the tyres and rims very susceptible to pothole damage. Perhaps look at non-standard 235/40R18 tyres fitted to 7.5Jx18 ET51 5/112 57.1 alloy rims from the Octavia MK3. Compared to the 225/35R19 tyre size, the 235/40R18 doesn't just add 10mm to the tyre width but a massive 20% to the sidewall height. So when you hit a pothole, the tyre will provide a lot more cushioning and resistance to pothole damage. Another thing to bear in mind is protection from kerbing damage. The sidewalls on a 235/40R18 fitted to a 7.5J rim will bulge out a similar amount to a 225/45R17 fitted to a 7J rim, and will therefore provide a similar level of protection from kerbing damage. 7.5Jx18 ET51 5/112 57.1 alloy rim https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-gemini-18-octavia-iii/p/5E0071498G+FL8 ETRTO recommended rim widths 225/35 7.5-8.0-9.0 235/40 x.x-x.x-x.x (7.5-8.0-9.0 would be logical but ETRTO's 8.0-8.5-9.5 recommendation is not logical) 245/45 7.5-8.0-9.0 As you can see in the chart below, these two tyre sizes have a similar outside diameter. When the 235/40R18 tyre size has just 2.55mm of tread wear, it will have exactly the same outside diameter as a new 225/35R19. Outside diameter of tyres 225/35R19 640.1mm 235/40R18 645.2mm (+0.8% larger compared to 225/35R19) Continental AllSeasonContact 235/40R18 95V XL https://www.camskill.co.uk/m141b0s10013p152848/Continental_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Continental_ContiAllSeasonContact_Continental_Conti_All_Season_Contact_235_40_R18_95V_XL_FR_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_72dB

Thank you for all your comments and suggestions My offending bits of trim were still surviving , just. I decided to opt for the 3M tape solution. I looked behind one of the offending trims and saw a huge buildup of various road dirt so thought that the HB42 glue might not stick too well to what was a dirty door. I took the trims off which came off remarkably easily and cleaned them up. I cleaned the remaining tape of the door with a wooden scrapers made from icecream lolly sticks suitably sharpened. Then I cleaned the residue off both doors and trims with a toothbrush and methylated spirits.... it took a while. When cleaned and prepared I stuck the trims on with the 3M tape and it seems to have done a good job. Only time will tell. the whole job took me about 3 hours with most of that being the cleaning of the old tape off the doors. Thank you all for your suggestions. Thank you Oldstan for keeping me fresh in your thoughts

Before After Difference is subtle, unfortunately I haven't been able to get any great photos before and after. I'm happy with the ride comfort and it was definitely worth the effort however. Would I get the garage to do it if I had to do it again? Yes, but budget a good £500-600 for parts that would need replacing and labour needed.