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Well to start with.... you need to ask for the following; - Was the tech qualified to do the work and proof of the relevant training - Was the tech Geko registered - A FULL copy of the ODIS log that accompanied all the work that was carried out - Proof that they have sent a ticket to the mothership (skoda/vw) and had a response - The key back, take the back off and see if it has any VW stamp or part number to prove/disprove the aftermarket key After you have all that, report back. In the mean time - ive never heard of a aftermarket key corrupting the car, i cant say yes or no to this but the way the car works, if all keys are lost/decoded then i believe they can still recover them somehow. It sounds like they arent too sure what they are doing and have made a big **** up - if all immobiliser parts were bricked they would also be adding a instrument cluster to that list, so why havent they.

Smells like BS to me... These ECU's are a funny beast and some coding cannot be changed but as others have said, the key and car were working previously so they have been communicating correctly. At the end of the day the car was driven in, in working order and they have done something to render it unusable, so I'd be pursuing them to rectify it. It's up to them to prove fault, not yours, and driving it in weighs in your favour! The key and immobiliser codes are in the instrument cluster if I'm not mistaken? Surely a new key fob can be coded by an VAG specialist who has the use of ODIS? I would get a second opinion from them.

But it was running when you took it in to them, right? This sounds like they have made some sort of mistake and they are now attempting to cover with BS. It is totally their responsibility to return your vehicle in the same condition as when you delivered it to them.

Presumably you were able to drive it betweem January and July - in which case your local main dealer has caused the problem?

For point 2: use "wipers service position" with confidence - I always do... I actually rarely clean my windshield using the wipers (unless I'm on a long trip and don't have time to stop). Most often I'll stop at the first gas station (when needed) and clean the windshield using wipers service position and lifting the wipers. And don't bother with the tablet menu - just pull down the wipers lever for a few seconds after you turned the engine off.

I hadn't practiced that when at 17 and bored in a traffic jam the idiot that controls my actions asked himself "I wonder if I can drive with my feet crossed?" 😒 I wont bore you with the detailed explanation but it was going alright until the traffic in front came to a sudden stop, my reflex reactions then made me rev the engine to valve bounce and drop the clutch ramming the car in front, the reflex reaction to that was to do the exact same thing again pushing him into the car in front of him, rinse and repeat a 3rd time and there were now 3 victims of my rear ending, the heads of the people in front were shaking back and forth like rag dolls 😒 maybe the others as well. The guy 2 cars ahead gave me the immortal words "where did you get your license, in a raffle?", it was only 2 weeks old at the time. Thankfully whiplash claims, ambulanc chasing lawyers and control input logging were not invented back then, I panelbeated and sprayed the car of the couple in front, they were wearing neckbraces 😄 and found the guy in front of them getting his parts from the breakers yard, they said he was a BIL so they gave them to him free. If that were to happen today the claims would be in 5 or 6 figures.

40% of the MG video is the guy reading out a news article, the article was not linked anywhere in video description or pinned comments. You really expect people to endure that kind of journalism? If you really care about having a constructive discussion, dig deeper to find the news article he referenced and post it up. I won't stop posting my views based on skim reading youtube transcript of any poorly structured videos, if I wish. I don't see anything wrong with minimum effort on my part when you've spent minimum effort in sharing it. The last 2 videos I posted explaining what is Agrivoltaics, provoked by your "problem with solar farm". Both 10-15min long with infographics and well structured video. Even earlier, page 76, I posted a 10min video explaining portable EV rapid charging, as possible solution to a news article regarding EV charging at motorway services. The video is optional because my words around it explained the concept. But the video is still well edited and packed with information. Same page, I posted the 33min video regarding trailers, in response to someone mention wanting to tow. But I made the video start at important bit (last few minutes) and included screenshot for critical information: how much longer it will take vs not towing. That's all the video I've shared after the 20mph talk. The problem isn't I don't take my own advice, the problem is you introducing a new subject out of the blue with a single video and nothing around it. The video is usually of someone ranting to a camera with very poor structure and difficult to digest. Example 1, Example 2, Example 3. At very least do a summary like with example 2. I am only interested in the truth and facts. Isolated incidents are neither here or there, and if you don't like your assumptions being pointed out, then stop making things up based on wildly wrong assumptions. (wrong assumptions: "problem with solar", "all customers getting green tariff", "energy supplier are same people sitting on windfall profit", "tablet computer freeze is relevant to car control software" in just last 3 pages) You say you don't have an agenda against EV's. Then why do you keep posting stuff from the anti-EV side of argument? Please correct me if I'm wrong with reference, but I don't remember seeing a single positive thing you've shared regarding EV's. Every post from you had been problem with EV's. You say I have been defending EV's. But in actual fact, I am posting both positive and negative information. The rapid charging news article I shared is bad for EV adoption. The increased towing time I shared is also honest information and relatively bad vs ICE towing. I'm about getting to the bottom of the truth and I am always happy stand corrected, as I had been recently.

Have a look at self adhesive trims on the car builder solutions website as they may have something suitable.

What an odd story. 🤔

Have you spoken to the manager of this Dealership? If not, request a meeting - point out that the vehicle was working correctly when delivered to them. The onus is on them to prove their claim that the ECU has been corrupted by the supposedly duplicate key. What was the reason for only one key being supplied when you purchased the car in January?

I’ve just had a new MIB fitted on 2020 First Edition, it was supplied with old 1668 software installed, the dealer has today done all the updates required and I now have 1941 installed. I mentioned to the dealer that the kmh/ mph issue has never been resolved. Upon completion of installing 1941 they have installed a further update and I now have a fully working car. Sat nav is now in miles and yards and I can now display kmh and mph on the virtual cockpit. So for anyone who never had the new digital cockpit fitted on the early cars,there is now a software fix. Hopefully this will be a game changer now and all works ok.

It’s hard to say without actually seeing the car but what has the garage diagnosed as the actual fault or broken parts? and what we’re your symptoms exactly? chances are you have backed up the turbo oil return which has caused oil to be forced passed the turbo seals. If so, you could get away with a new turbo cartridge and possible be done with it. worst case like others said, conrods and crankshaft have hit the oil hard enough to bend/break internal engine parts. before spending this much money on any car I would want a full in-depth engineer report showing exactly what’s broken and photos to back it up. that way you know the garage has actually done a proper diagnosis and not just ‘it’s fooked m8’

There must be fault codes logged for the supposed corruption? If the ECU is corrupted how is the engine even running?

Just say no. Live life. There are plenty analog & semi digital cars to see your driving career out. People have choices and the Play Station & on generation are a bit off being geriatrics. I went for the MINI Electric with crap range because i wanted one before they stopped being made and i would not have a New one with more range and just a heads up in front of me and some Computer Game type center dash. I have a Sony Xperia phone 3 years old and do not want a newer one. I know what i like and like what i know.

Corsa Electric had all you needed in front of you and change screens on a stalk, as does the MINI Electric as do many EV, s and not just ones that also come as an ICE. i-Drive selector between the seats of the MINI for the driver or passenger to select or control most of everything the car can do other than the stuff the driver does, 2 pedals, steering and stalks. If you do not want big screens and you need to touch them just say 'No'.

The Briskoda bleep machine has melted and swearbox is overflowing and everyone can have a drink 😆 I know the feeling though, having the system working perfectly, only for some muppet to issue a flawed download which sends systems into meltdown. I'm lucky in that I've had 🤞no further problems.

Rishi can use the billions not already wasted on HS2 to get the National Grid nationalised and fit for the UK,s needs.

This shows the network operators, who look after the distribution networks, the main generating companies are EDF, Centrica (British Gas), E.ON, RWE npower, Scottish Power and Southern & Scottish Power.

Geoff Buys Cars Youtuber lives close to me, somewhere in the Worcesterestershire area. Hope I do not come across him and feel the need to call him out as an Agent of Chaos. (And a Click Bait low life driving around in his dirty old pollution machines).

It's a lease car and goes back in December 2024 - it will probably be around 40k miles by then so unless there's a recommendation by the dealer to do so, then no.

I think you are just as guilty of making a sweeping generalisation, I don't think you will find if you play his video that he claimed that all EVs were like that and as I have already pointed out, there are some touch controls on my 2016 ICE Superb and wyx087 also posted photo of a Mercedes-Benz S class with touch screen for almost everything. It is usually people who have either an EV or some form of hybrid who always are prepared to jump in with both feet and rubbish any presenter who does not 100% share your passion, and so often this appears to be without watching the video or listening to what they have to say. When you or others post videos here, they are ones that fall into line with your own opinions, but do you find me trying to belittle and rubbish those presenters? No is the answer, I do generally watch them and If I don't watch them I don't pass any comment, good, bad or indifferent. I always have an open mind to new ideas and willing to see new opinions and sometimes I do actually learn something, its just a shame that others don't have an open mind as well.

Exciter wire is the thin blue one, one of the the two that connect via the little two-way plug. If the battery light works at all, that wire is OK, I believe. You might have some loom damage somewhere that's giving weird results when wet?

I’ve managed to sort it, the person who I bought the seats of said he forgot to put the subframes back on and he’s shipping them to me. Also I’m putting the seats in a Octavia vrs mk1

Sometimes people sell the subframes separately as they can go for strong money when you find them. There is a set on Ebay asking £240. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134713491185?hash=item1f5d8cbef1:g:W-0AAOSwocZk9Fhs&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwLhu8EF%2BmD9qgDEXKZRHd%2B%2Bdh3WszyPv7%2FMKRAQxQPOGgKun5U%2FepoUIV3UBYFcVhtGa3ObCAk1qqQmCSiNsttmWF%2BCPd%2FLQowkad93uwTQk9uQ6W9iPVR0bpt32AnSXAMkEXXaGAnGl2GxLqTheWqa5KhvKPi16NUCPoIgqFQx2tvMgGV8Z8h1da701qYpExg%2B40uWNMf%2FdngjuAMnkL9MKqW5qppWeqvj5To7Jk%2F0ud7nn2VSMOHaxYcx2Y11Fbw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-af5L7fYg

I see a few cars with P0441 fault come in. Generally 1.0 ltr or 1.5 . Test plans on Odis always check for a software update but generally prove inconclusive. Normally replace the valve with pipework and on certain 1.0ltr engines replace the intake elbow on the turbo. Always remove and weigh the Charcoal filter. common for these to become saturated with fuel. VW recommend when filling fuel tank to stop when the pump clicks off and do not fill further.

View from outside car. ECP suggested the wrong rating to another member based on his reg, so well worth a look. If you see 4 bar on it, please message me with your VIN so I can double-check the correct rating.

New UK brochure for facelifted version now available https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/e5530aa7-058e-4978-8855-79f9f20111d6 Just 2 options, convenience package and winter package, no individual options

@Graham ButcherWhat i am saying it is my 3rd Sony Xperia since buying when they first came out, & with not the longest lasting battery or the best camera (which i never use) and seemingly not the greatest speed for games etc. Well i do not play games on my phone, so until it breaks or gets lost it is all i need. With cars i would have a Fast Fabia if they built them which they do not but Spin is about a Fabia vRS again but an EV, a VW ID 2 sister. So likely i will not have one of those. Maybe 3 years is as long as i will be driving and if not then i think i will be running a semi quick and comfortable ICE car. Likely a Mk4 Fabia 1.5 TSI DSG just as long as Skoda have not too many snagging faults and sort out the crap people are getting with the software. But then if there are lots of reported issues that might mean 'much cheapness' to buy one. Like some of the crap that Skoda are selling and have been with the Mk4 Octavias, ICE and PHEV,s.

In my opinion, I would consider replacement of the Turbo might not be necessary - the presence of oil in it just shows how the excess oil has been 'blown' out of the engine - unfortunately, I can't say the same for other engine components (pistons, connecting rods and crankshaft) These are all major parts - and there is a possibility of damage to them by the pistons contacting the excess oil. - plus the catalytic converter will probably need replacement after being contaminated.

Sweeping generalisation. The Renault Zoe, along with the LEAF the founding EVs in Europe has a quite compact and bijou driver display and centre consol tablet, about 9 inch corner to corner, it has knobs for the climate ie blower power, temperature and directing air feed, several other button as well for eco mode, air conditioning override, lights height adjustment, all the windows up and down, mirror controls to name some of them. Not at all gratuitously weird and similar to my Mark 3 Octavia and other cars before it. The console in front of the driver is quite this decade but it is what I would expect from any newish car, EV, hybrid or just plain old ICE. Just amazes me that people with so little knowledge get to expound their miniscule knowledge to such an wide audience. As we say at sea " empty vessels make the most noise".

As per old-school, kerosene is one of the best penetrators. But should give time to suck in threads.

It’s a new battery that was fine before I changed the seat. Easiest option seems to be to put things back as they were before the problem arose, it’s 20 minutes to change the seat. If I take a measurement it will show a drain and the first step will be to replace the seat anyway!

First mod I did 😁 I think after reading your input on one thread or another. Went with the APR steel one, zero vibrations too so happy days also got a short shift kit on the list ☺️

Probably best taking the bigger money hit and handing it into either a proper VW Group Indie or a Skoda workshop as they should have a better idea of why this is happening. Too late to ask now, but did that local garage check the EVAP valve to make sure it was actually faulty. Maybe include your engine type - and code if possible.

JR RS - it’s the factory maps I’m trying to show, not those from my phone. Aperture S - I’ve not tried. I’ll have a look this morning on my way to work.

I have a 2021 and I've learned to live with it. I just idle for a minute before leaving, so the rev counter drops down 2 times, then I don't have the kangarooing. I've also learned to live with the rumbling sounds and jerking sensations of the "active cylinder technology". It's a weird car.

It's not a dig, it's to stop confusion. And it's to stop taking every opportunity to have a go at dealers. You haven't answered what's fraudulant about it. You haven't answered HMRC's involvement. Why have you mentioned them? I'm sure I'm not the only person who's completely baffled by your reply. For the life of me I can't understand why people chose to complicate something that's so simple. The owner asks how much does it cost to change the spark plugs, the garage gives their price and you either take it or leave it. What does it matter if it's a 3, 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine?

£600 is a great price. Skoda UK told me (on phone) the recommended intervals changed on July 1st. July has been mentioned a few times in other subs too. In January 2023 someone else (in this sub) was told by a dealer, the belt is "for life". That person was lucky with a knowledgeable dealer. Dealers I spoke to had different mileage intervals, and different quotes, but all said five years. About a year ago dealers were quoting £500 to £600 to replace the belt. But seems they were finding it took much longer to do because this year that price went up drastically. That's the original topic of this sub. My point is at £600 you're dealer might not have known it was a longer job, or the interval was going, if that makes sense. They might have been annoyed after have doing a few of these for £600.

When set to rear, mine play only mids and tweeters lack of clear sound, dull output (compared to front speakers, sound set to front). It is not balanced in my opinion and experience with my car. But, at the end I have made compromise, when I am driving alone, my sub is set to 0, if I have back seat travellers I have to tune it down to -5. No chaneges to other parameters Surround is ~6, high +5, mid +1, low +9 (to have bass in front at least).

At the Cracking plant like at Grangemouth the OIl is coming up the Forties Pipeline from Cruden Bay and the Oil needs gas with it to move it along. Then there is the Shale Gas from America on the INEOS Dragon Bulk Carriers, then gas is producing electricity at their own power station to produce petrochemicals from the Oil. The highest emissions place in Scotland. It is a dirty game producing energy of any kind, some maybe less dirty and with less long lasting consequences. Different things for different reasons, minerals of all kinds but it all comes from the ground or out of the air or goes into the air or back into the ground eventually. Some kills people sooner than others and maybe more painfully. ...................... I worry more really about Nut Jobs who walk or drive about us than what they drive or how they fuel them.

A HCI issue. Human Computer Interface with the human having a senior moment. Computer was performing within parameters, human was not.

First, why "It does not matter if your supplier does actually the missing two thirds of your power at a later date from a renewable supplier"? (btw, we talk in energy not power) Energy use is replenished by renewable sources. The most important thing is that funding does not go to fossil fuel energy sources. Assuming supplier sticks to their contract, which brings us to second point. Second, what makes you so sure all energy supplier will break contract? You've seen the certified sources claims, if you question this, you should be able to request their certificates and dig deeper to find out for yourself. I trust there are regulatory bodies to ensure no false advertising. Third, the UK grid is getting cleaner year by year. IF for some reason an EV driver isn't on green supplier, all EV will still get greener as it ages because the grid is getting greener. https://www.nationalgrid.com/uk-hits-major-clean-energy-milestone True, EV charged during peak times are more likely to be natural gas powered than renewable. It is clear from grid carbon intensity data. But it doesn't mean the owner is paying the gas company for the privilege. This is important because green suppliers give people ability to vote with their wallet. Which in turn allows building more renewable sources, which allows the nation to be less reliant on fossil fuel. So I have grasped what you are getting at, but you are, once again, ignoring the big picture. Only looking at instantaneous energy generation while ignoring the benefits of green suppliers and overall economics of energy suppliers.

Not sure, no personal experience of a faulty one, are you hearing any odd noises?

https://www.irishcentral.com/opinion/others/roy-sullivan-struck-lightning-seven-times But he was not always in the same place 😉

It reacts faster, not the matrix high beam, but when turning the steering wheel light moves faster.

Mine is original from Jan 2013. Has a healthy cranking speed even after not being used for a few weeks. Stop/start always enabled.

So finally skoda factory was included in my case and answer is that this is normal. When i open lid while ignition is off it turns on the lights, multimedia etc. If i dont close it in a while, everything is going off and multimedia just remembers that lid is open. For me it was important only that nothing is going wrong, cable, button etc, when warranty expire.

Ridiculous that after 2019 there should have been any turned out with issues. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/446820-15-sel-first-gear-issue/page/116

Right, four of a kind for the Green Machine today having remembered with about 0.15 of a mile to go and a parking space on left that was long enough to roll into and it to tick over just at end of it. First pic, then after a short wait....