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Having a reversing camera for most people is a pleasant luxury, not a necessity. I have managed without a reversing camera for decades. Then I fitted one, and while find I still use my mirrors to reverse, the camera is useful for precise manoeuvring where there is a bollard or other low obstacle directly behind my car. Perhaps your post can make people with reversing cameras feel inferior to you, but I expect they'll see straight through your "amazement" to the childish malice behind it.

I'm beginning to get the feeling this thread may have been better as a simple "yes" / "no" poll.

2/3 year and 60K miles for VAG cars ? Hyundai and Kia 7 years. My Renaults 5 years and 100K miles. Both the full EV and the mild hybrid. Had a turbo go on my 30 month old Audi A4 and it was a nervous warranty claim as car had done 65k miles. VAG warranty does not back up the brands supposed high engineering standards.

Yeah this has just gone round and round hasn’t it. Each to their own, some like the driving aids some don’t, thread done now?😘

You have taken most of the depreciation hit on a new vehicle, why subject yourself to that again?

Nothing wrong with the mileage especially if has been well maintained and mainly motorway miles. My 1.4tsi has done 160k and had no major work apart from regular oil service. Just check that the Cambelt has been done by a specialist as the 1.5tsi has ACT and needs proper timing equipment. Also just be aware that Cambelt changes on the 1.5tsi can cost around £750 to £1k whereas the 1.4tsi with no ACT is around £350, so something you wish to consider before going for a 1.5tsi

Thanks MartiniB. The MIB3 (Superb etc) file loaded successfully into my Karoq's MIB3 Amundsen, and seems to have created some of the missing radio logos. (Pity I still haven't got any for Smooth or Classic FM though.) This is the first time I've been able to get it to update software via the USB-C socket, so well done! Chris

There's something not quite right about the styling.... I don't like the way the front bumper curves inwards, making the front wheel arches looking like they're wider than they should be and added as an afterthought. And the front grille looks too vertical and like the front of a bus! mk3 looks better:

Having one has been a revelation to me, especially when using every mm to parallel park and hooking up my trailers, a regular occurrence, I use it in addition to my mirrors and only for the last 30 cm. Its amusing to see either bystanders when parking or someone helping me couple a trailer making frantic hand signals as I get extremely close but the problem is to see and enjoy them I have to use my mirrors and stop looking at the camera, instead I hear their shouts of urgency. What would be really nice is if the image could be shown in the rear view mirrors.

I think you'll find that in the owners manual it tells you to disable the Traction control to better enable to you to get going from a standstill especially on snow, loose surfaces... Unfortunately they bury the setting in the touch screen in a sub menu on my car....so I retro-fitted the button that is fitted to the GTI/R....this to enable direct control..like I had in my 2001yr MK1 Fabia!! I've also had to alter various ABS settings to cope with bigger brakes & engine tune to stop the traction control intervening way too early!... I've re-coded way too many things to calm down the electronic "nanny's"....!! However when I ordered the car, it came with quite a few things, (thankfully not lane assist, high beam assist, park steer)....but I did spec rear view camera (its an estate so needed) & rear seat side air bags (for best rear passenger protection).... I do have "auto headlights"...but I never have the switch in that position....so many times the main lights or sidelights won't come on when I think they should be on to make my car more visible ..its a silvery colour..so in certain conditions is disappears easy... I can see, but you won't see my rear that well when you're in a 60mph or 70mph zone... I suppose it all comes down to what the capabilities of the driver are & how they like to drive...

While I don't want to disregard work done by Skoda engineers, I have to point out fact, that Felicia already has altered kinematics compared to original design - Favorit. I wouldn't put that much weight into geometry. Skoda was happy to figure out axles that won't crack back then. 😀 On another note, the original suspension settings were severely limited by the rear axle. The rate of the rear springs was given by their dimensions and stiffness of the axle, the front had to comply with that - so I agree with Felicia suspension being comfortable, but I wouldn't call it well handling. More like barely working, but expressive and relatively safe. There's reason why track vehicles were based around Pickup with its stiffer rear axle. And also reason why I don't believe in safety of aftermarket "sport" spring and damper, with exception of HP Sporting, which was tuned for specifically for Felicia.

Database is maintained by Phonostar.de and Škoda doesn't hide that but one of their answer sounded similar to . . . "Škoda's users don't have to contact to Phonostar" . . . life hack, if you have any questions to stations @ phonostar.de, write them as VW user updates can be downloaded from https://www.phonostar.de/vw/en/download https://www.phonostar.de/vw/de/download by enter VW's head units part number Mib2 (Superb Mk3 and similar) Golf Mk7.5 3Q0 035 824 C "FM2-H-*-EU-SE-MQB" "FM2-H-*-EU-SK-MQB" "FM2-H-*-EU-VW-MQB" "FM2-H-*-RW-SK-MQB" "FM2-H-*-RW-VW-MQB" Content; Downloadable; Size; 2023.11.09 2023.12.13 89 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB2_Europe_v1.10.48.zip 2024.07.17 2024.08.05 93 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB2_Europe_v1.10.52.zip 2025.07.07 2025.07.08 93 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB2_Europe_v1.10.60.zip 2025.12.01 2026.03.09 95 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB2_Europe_v1.10.64.zip 2026.05.16 2026.07.13 97 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB2_Europe_v1.10.66.zip 2026.09.26 2026.10.15 98.5 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB2_Europe_v1.10.70.zip Mib3 (Superb Mk3.FL and similar) Tiguan 3G5 035 820 Q "FM3-E3-DWBC4-EU-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBC4-EU-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBC4-EU-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-WBC4-RW-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-WBC4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-WBC4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-WBC4-US-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-EU-FO-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-EU-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-EU-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-W2-FO-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-W2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-DWBY4-W2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-E3-HWBC4-RW-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-RW-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-RW-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W3-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EE-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EE-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EU-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EU-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-R2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-R2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-RW-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-RW-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W2-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W2-VW-MQ2-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W3-SK-MQ2-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EE-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EE-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EU-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-EU-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-W2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NDWBY4-W2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-R2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-R2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-SM-NWBY4-W3-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EE-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-R2-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-R2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-R2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-RW-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-RW-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-W2-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-W2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NDWBY4-W2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-R2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-SE-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-SK-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W2-VW-MQB-PC", "FM3-S-NWBY4-W3-SK-MQB-PC" Content; Downloadable; Size; 2023.12.20 2023.12.20 162 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.48b.zip 2024.05.17 2024.11.07 1,13 GB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.50.zip 2025.01.14 2025.02.20 166 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_NonGP_JND_Europe_v1.31.56.zip 2025.01.08 2025.05.26 833 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.56.zip 2025.03.19 2025.06.11 167 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.58.zip 2026.02.16 2026.03.09 174 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_JND_Europe_v1.31.64.zip 2026.05.15 2026.07.13 182 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_JND_Europe_v1.31.66.zip 2026.09.27 2026.10.15 185 MB https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_JND_Europe_v1.31.70.zip Mib3 (Multivan) Multiv. 5H0 035 816 S "FM3-*-*-EU-SK-*-LG", "FM3-*-*-RW-SK-*-LG", "FM3-*-*-W2-SK-*-LG", "FM3-*-*-EU-VW-*-LG", "FM3-*-*-RW-VW-*-LG", "FM3-*-*-W2-VW-*-LG" Content; Downloadable; Size; Vers; 2024.10.07 2024.11.07 167 MB 2024Q4 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.54.zip 2024.11.12 2025.01.14 166 MB 2024Q4 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.56.zip 2025.03.19 2025.05.26 167 MB 2025Q1 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.58.zip 2026.01.29 2026.03.09 174 MB 2026Q1 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.64.zip 2026.05.15 2026.07.13 182 MB 2026Q2 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.66.zip 2026.09.27 2026.10.15 185 MB 2026Q3 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.70.zip Mib? (Enyaq, ID* and ??) ID.4 10A 035 816 R "I31-*-*-EU-SK-MEB-LG", "I31-*-*-EU-VW-MEB-LG" Content; Downloadable; Size; Vers; 2023.11.09 2023.12.13 162 MB 2023Q4 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/ICAS3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.48.zip 2024.07.15 2024.08.05 167 MB 2024Q3 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/ICAS3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.52.zip 2024.11.12 2025.01.14 166 MB 2024Q4 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/ICAS3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.56.zip 2025.03.19 2025.05.26 167 MB 2025Q1 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/ICAS3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.58.zip 2026.01.29 2026.03.09 174 MB 2026Q1 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/ICAS3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.64.zip 2026.05.15 2026.07.13 182 MB 2026Q2 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/ICAS3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.66.zip 2026.09.27 2026.10.15 185 MB 2026Q3 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/ICAS3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.70.zip update instructions: Mib2 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB2_Stationlogos_CustomerUpdate.pdf Mib3 https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_Stationlogos_CustomerUpdate.pdf Mib3+ https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/37W_Stationlogos_CustomerUpdate.pdf from the factory mine 2023.01 Mib3 Amundsen had database v1.30.36. and 14 of 29 Riga's FM stations had none logo, what especially annoyed, because all Mib3 and newer head units have lost option of manual upload logos, what were possible in my previous 2016.02 Mib2H Columbus -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/415291-columbus-radio-icons/ with new database only 7 of 29 are missing, missing stations are equal in both tested databases (Superb Mk3.FL and Enyaq) but last one contains more relevant logos -> solution Superb Mk3.FL 2023 Enyaq 2022

Hey BRISKODA community, I hope everyone is doing well! I've noticed that we don't have separate subforums for the newly introduced Skoda Kushaq and Slavia models. I wanted to open up a discussion about whether creating dedicated spaces for these vehicles within our forum might be beneficial. As the Skoda family grows, having distinct subforums for each model could help streamline discussions, making it easier for members to find relevant information, share experiences, and seek assistance specific to their vehicle. With the Kushaq and Slavia gaining popularity, it might be worthwhile to consider this organizational change. I'm curious to hear your thoughts on whether we should propose the addition of dedicated subforums for the Kushaq and Slavia. Do you think it would enhance the overall user experience? Let's discuss and see if there's a consensus among our community members. Till so far I am unable to see a group for Slavia or Kushaq and these two models are very popular in India. Cheers, Adarsh

I do my own tyre fitting now, one on my MK1 Octavia I had used several aerosols over the years and when I removed the tyre there was a large amount of liquid in it that looked and smelt like what you remove from a blocked sink U bend. It ain't nice stuff if not removed ASAP.

Yes, I think we're all aware of the 737 MAX saga. However, no one mentioned anything about relying 100% on the computer systems to fly an aircraft. Where did you get that from? The systems are there as pilot aids, all of whom use them throughout the flight. You won't find a commercial pilot who would want to fly without the systems, or advocate totally disabling them to fly rogue, even if it were possible. Equally none will pretend they can sit there and let the computers control literally everything, even if that were possible. Same with assistance features in the car, driver aids, not driver substitute.....there are occasions when a driver (or pilot) may experience an 'episode' or lose consciousness at the helm, that's when a bit of artificial assistance may well avert disaster. "Self driving mode" is a different thing again, no sane person would go near it at this stage of technology. Those vehicles currently featuring it shouldn't be on the road. It would be nice if folks could just maintain some perspective.

Done well there Graham. I'm sure you learnt from the best

STR.T Kit The result of a technological partnership The STR.T Kit from KONI comprises KONI STR.T. shock absorbers and custom-made lowering springs from the company H&R. Both companies can look back on many years of experience in motor racing, such as in Formula 1 or the DTM. The advantages for the customer are obvious. The experience gained along with the technological developments flow directly into the companies' product development. KONI's STR.T. shock absorbers stand for perfect road holding, optimum handling and breathtaking centrifugal force. Thanks to the extremely high reaction speeds of the shock absorbers drivers can totally rely on their equipment even in precarious or demanding situations. As a result of the symbiosis between H&R's lowering springs and KONI's STR.T shocks into the STR.T Kit tuners receive a suspension kit from the factory perfectly balanced to suit their vehicle. Unpleasant pitch and rolling movements are thus reduced to a minimum. Depending on vehicle make a lowering up to 40 mm is offered. This means that nothing now stands in the way of high speed drives on curving roads and the ultimate driving pleasure. FEATURES Perfectly tuned chassis / 100% performance Excellent handling Lowering up to 40 mm with H&R springs Perfect match 100% streetlegal https://www.amortiseronline.gr/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/Koni-strt-amortiser-set-3.jpg Koni Street with Lowering spings, exactly what i have and for the task that i want. So who you are going to trust? Koni or an maladaptive?

Thanks wiilydog! Wow I wasn’t aware the cambelt cost that much on 1.5tsi! I’ll ask where it was done and by who. I’ll have to accommodate this in my repairs fund!

Mission accomplished but it was a bit of a challenge and not for the faint of heart. Sourced a new regulator from Skoda Parts UK. Receipt of that and examination gave a couple of hints as to what lay in store. Removal of the broken one wasn’t easy but once I found out how to remove the ‘straddle’ pin in the window glass it got a bit easier. 5mm bolt to remove the inner pin and a 8mm bolt to remove the outer pin albeit I ended up using a coarse threaded masonry fixing screw which was about 9mm dia. I had to cut one of the white plastic glass holder/sliders but I did this before I found out about the procedure for removal of the pins that secure the glass. Reassembly was a fiddle but logical except for refitting the plastic pins. Tapering one end helped the fitting of the outer pin and I never managed to fully insert the central pin and was reluctant to force it too much as it is fitting through glass. Anyway after this- 90 minutes with a friend helping we got the window working again. We concluded that we would like to do this in a moving production line!

The relay contacts may be burnt such that they make a contact, but not one that's good enough for the current required to get the motor moving. Try another relay, especially if it's an easy pluggable type.

I have asked several tyre fitters about this, the consensus was that they would not consider repairing a tyre that had been sealed with 'gunk' because of the sheer messiness and difficulty in getting the puncture area sufficiently clean. I guess it's bad enough just getting the old tyre off the rim.

Welcome. What is the History other than the Cambelt and Water pump? Was it variable servicing so 18,000-20,000 miles between oil changes. Is there a record of when the spark plugs, air filter, pollen filter and brake fluid was changed and anything on the AC being serviced? ? Is it a manual or a DSG, 7 speed DQ200?

yep, agreed, for professional installers, that should be bread and butter stuff! Thanks for the tip on the piggyback, I'll look into that - hopefully the guy installed a piggy back fuse holder thingy that I can just move.

Yeah, it's a silly washable air filter, luckily you can refit a standard paper one which saves buggering about getting dirty cleaning and oiling that one! Jetex exhausts are ok, so as long as it's not too loud then you'll be fine.

Hooray He found a camera useful, say no more.

Thanks, really useful to know. And yes speaking direct to bodyshop good idea. Although it seems like a good opportunity to fit rails, it would complicate and delay things further. If they even agree to do it - and also I'd have to contribute to costs, tying me in to a car I haven't seen yet, and may ultimately want to reject for other reasons (hopefully not). Presumably If I accept car as it is, it sounds doable/ financially viable without having to rush it now? The whole roof lining wouldn't need removing again to fit the rails - just the edges, enough to access to drill etc? Really appreciate the responses so far, if anyone's done it and got some advice that would be great. Cheers

I think he's a bit ahead of you on that idea, hence the divorce.

My local ATS Euromaster has not been able to inflate the Nitrogen for a couple of years, other than the 78% that goes in when the compressor is used to inflate the tyres. Non of the that work there are for for BS either, so they do not kid the customers, many who are farmers and nit known to throw away money. I have Direct & Indirect TPMS on my cars and with one i know the tyre temperatures but now i feel concerned that my TPMS,s are not working as well as they could from just having normal air. (Back with the Fabia Mk2,s we used heavy air and folded the rear seats down as this made the car faster and grip the road better.)

Thanks for refreshing my knowledge! I thought it was still uptodate.

I sent you link to download SW on PM

Had it on the Sportarrrrrrrzhe - jerky but the single worst thing is it sits slightly too far over to the left in the lane. Felt like I’d be trading paint overtaking people

Well I've been reversing vehicles for over 40 years and not hit anything yet. Only time I found a camera useful was reversing ambulances, when you had no rear view mirror.

Yes I do get involved in the saving sessions. It compares with "ones normal usage" so difficult to save much if one does not normally use much lecky between say 1700 and 1830. But Octopus pay an enhanced rate even if one only saves half a kWh. They would have had to pay some high rate to use a fill in power, Drax or some standby hydrocarbon station so they prefer to give it to customer making savings than standby stations burning stuff. Quite a small difference but something and I have yet to get the whole house switched over to batteries for these periods which I will get one of my daughters electrician boyfriends to do at some point.

Or temporarily disable systems that appear unable to properly handle prevailing conditions.

@benterrier the mk4 cabin is a much nicer place to be than the mk3, the plastics and other materials feel a big step up in my opinion. As others have said it’ll now be a 1.5tsi ACT that has 150ps. I have a manual estate 2020 model. @SouthernComfort is right to have alluded to the many s/ware issues in earlier models; there are fixes available which ought to be applied to any used examples bought through official Škoda channels - but sadly there are some reports on these forums where it’s not the case. If you buy used ensure all the fixes are applied. Cabin noise is pretty well muted in mine other than tyre noise - but that is perhaps more to do with the Michelins on mine as factory fitted. They are lasting well though, about 4.5mm left after 35k miles. Not sure I know what I’d be looking for regards the rear axle, sorry. Hopefully others know more than I do! Fuel economy is very good in the mk4s too, it has better aero efficiency than the mk3. I’m surprised to be averaging mid-50s mpg since I bought it (that’s brim to brim calculations) and on a long motorway run it’s usually 62mpg or better.

Just checked mine and it looks like the vRS logo is part of the silver trim. Third edit lucky... I think this might be the correct part. Has an Octavia logo https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iii/octavia-iii-steering-wheel-plate-for-flat-bottom-stwheel-octavia

Thanks Dave, v clever. BW, Hugh

When I was travelling in New Zealand I was given a WOF (Roadworthy test) failure Nissan Prairie that had been converted for camping, incredibly by the ex boyfriend of the girl I was seeing! He even gave me all the spares and let me use his garage and stay at his house while I fixed it up. Anyway when I registered it in my name it came with State 3rd party insurance cover, it was something like £40 a year in NZ dollars, an absolute bargain and a very equitable system, it did not seem to have harmed the insurance market, most people with decent cars took out fully comp policies in case they got run into by a cheapskate like myself 🤣 Elsewhere on this forum there is a newly qualified driver being rushed for £6K to insure his Fabia, in my country an insurer can only load the policy a maximum of 100% or 50% if they have taken a road safety course. As an example if my policy was €500 and I had the maximum ncb then I would pay €250, a young driver having just passed his test would pay €750 but the 50% increase drops to nothing over 3 years ad he also builds up NCB so he would pay €593 in year 2 and €425 in year 3. The NCB builds up slowly over 13 years to get to the maximum 50% so the young driver wont get to pay the same as any older driver with full NCB till he is 30 but critically he does not get penalised in the early years and very little after 3 accident free years, I think it is a very equitable system.

Exactly - that's how I use mine. FWIW I find the amount of negative and cynical comments around assistance systems a bit disappointing. 6 things stick in my mind, and I look at it in this context: - The systems in my car are there for the benefit of others on the road, not just me. - If I were to lose consciousness behind the wheel, then LA and Auto Braking might lessen or even avoid possible disaster. Happened to a driver in my part of the world recently; heart attack, lost control, carnage. His earlier model car didn't have assistance systems much to the misfortune of others involved. - I mentioned previously that a friend of mine had a momentary lapse due to fatigue and the LA system in her car DID come to the rescue. - Modern assistance systems are just an updated safety contingency plan complementing seat belts, air bags and crumple zones. I'm happy to park my pride if it means modern tech will help out if I can't, even after 50 yrs of unblemished driving experience. - The incidence of alcohol and/or drug impaired drivers on the road is a perennial problem. I just hope those idiots behind the wheel haven't turned their systems OFF... - Q. Would I be happy if the pilot of the A320 I'd just boarded announced that he preferred to fly 'old school' and turn the computers off? As for Stop/Start, who cares? Lane Keeping Assist & Auto Braking, thank you!

Kessy cannot be turned off, why would you want to? easy entry is the tailgate ‘kick’ sensor to open the tailgate. i read it wrong, this is easy open, easy entry is moving the drivers seat back and forward when ignition is on and off. if you’re going through the trouble of accessing the fuse box for the fuses, just get a hardwire kit and fit the dashcam properly to a ignition live fuse.

When a bulb blows it can sometimes take a fuse out. You have two options. Check all the bulbs for a blown one or replace the fuse, see it it pops again, and if not, see what bulb isn't working.

Hi All, Just writing to let you know that I'm offering valeting and detailing around my locality of SW London/Surrey. From a maintenance quick wash, to a full machine polish and ceramic coating, engine bays, interior etc. I'm certified and validated by IDA and trained at the UK Detailing Academy. Always been keen over the years but decided I'd ditch the overbearing boring finance career for it. Happy to chat about it all day. Cheers, Lee

The fact that they have retained some physical buttons below the screen is a big plus. I had a Mk4 Octy vRS as a loaner and the screen-centric heating and other basic controls drove me mad.

I could never understand this use of the horn. What does it mean? Is it to say ‘I’m here and I’m coming through’? So what if two vehicles approaching the bridge/bend both sound their horns? And what guarantee is there that any other driver has heard the horn, however loud? Must be Hell for folks living near the bridge! IMO blind bridges should be approached very slowly, leaving enough time to stop if another vehicle is coming the other way. Thanks how I’ve acted for over 55 years, with no problems. Apologies for mini thread hijack.

Hi all, So recently I've been having some trouble with my rear wiper washer jet, when I first got the car (second hand) it could spray water just fine but recently it's only dribbled out until it finally got blocked up (despite taking it to be checked during its MOT where they said it was fine, and once again when it was finally blocked). The dealer said it was a result of some corrosion and might not be covered under warranty and that I had to wait for a reply from Skoda... 🙄 I asked for photos but they couldn't give any, saying that there was a blockage somewhere in the rear wiper motor unit after testing and attempting to clear the blockage (or at least that was the gist of it). I wasn't really happy with their service, the technian left clips unclipped, one was bent, a plastic tab with a clip had completely come off the backing from the trim and one of the rubber seals wasn't properly refitted and sealed. Suprisingly there was a recent post on here on another hatch experiencing the same issues, so it seems like this is not an uncommon issue but now I've had my hand at it and sorted it out. 😁 There are a few things you'll need to have and check: 1. The two washer pumps work - when you push or pull the washer stalk you should be able to hear two different motors working away. 2. That the washer pipe hasn't burst/split - if it has you'd probably have noticed some wet patches somewhere in the car or at least heard water being jettisoned. 2a. Likewise you should check to see if the blockage isn't in the pipe, but this fix only focuses on the end of the pipe. 3. The rear wiper motor works. 4. The rear washer jet nozzle hasn't been blocked - this would be easiest way to clear the blockage, just lift the cap and pull the nozzle off. You can easily wash or clear it with a needle pin, brush or with a water flosser. A few tools you'll need: You'll need a trim removal bar, something plastic that can help give you leverage while removing the rear clips. A long toothpick and some palstic trimmer line - the bottom washer hole is about 15mm wide whereas the top one is a lot thinner, a bit larger than a toothpick. A fine needle pin for the jet nozzle A water flosser - you could use a pressure washer but I think you'll have trouble directing and controlling the water into such a small pipe. Towels, a bucket and maybe a second pair of hands. Once you've checked and gathered all that, I have a good suspicion that the blockage is in the same place where I had mine. The blockage appears in the right angle part washer pipe of the rear wiper motor. Firstly you'll need to remove the entire rear door trim (video guide here) - start with the interior hatch button from the sides, it'll fall out and this is where you'll need to push the clip in at the top of the connector to remove it. It's a good idea to turn off the interior lights and be aware of where the exterior rear door latch button is just in case you activate the automatic lift by pushing up or down on it. Next remove the two rubber stops by simply unscrewing them. Now this is the hard part, trying to remove the trim from the clips. I'd start near the latch and work where it's loose. You'll also need to remove the first three clips of the side pillars, the best way to remove them is to grab the edge, pull them down and inwards until the clips come loose. You don't have to remove them all, maybe two or three clips so that you can remove the rear trim. So now that you have the whole trim off you have the rear wiper motor exposed and now you'll need to locate the washer pipe (the ribbed pipe lined below). To remove it, you'll need to twist the white locking piece. Remember the the way it goes on, it should lock into place and that the black rubber ring is still inside the pipe. If you have a pipe cleaner you can clean the immediate area of the pipe or you can even try and use the washer jet, just make sure you have a bucket (though it'll only work if the car thinks that the rear hatch is down). Make sure you reconnect this properly, if you don't put this securely back on the pipe could come loose and spray inside the boot. With that done you'll now have access to the blocked area. I would also remove the plastic nozzle jet on top too, just lift the cap and wriggle the nozzle jet free. You can use a needle pin or a water flosser to clear it. Now back on the underside, you can now use the plastic trimmer wire, toothpick and water flosser to probe and clear out the blockage. Here you can see just how dirty the toothpick got. I didn't get a chance to take photos but the trimmer and water flosser had gotten some debris up and out - I also found a single red strand of thread clogged up in there. Do the same on the top and clear the shaft, just make sure you have a towel or bucket underneath to catch the water coming out. Now that you're done test the washer function out. I tried the rear washer and I was amazed at the pressure that was coming out, It was way more powerful than the first time I had gotten the car all those years ago, it's like a proper jet wash. Of course, with some slight adjustments to the nozzle jet I was able to get a much more sensible spray that won't strike cyclists, pedestrians or other cars. 😜 Now that you've cleared the blockage, make sure you wipe down and dry all parts that might've gotten wet on the inside of the trim, especially near any connectors and then do everything in reverse. Just be aware of the rear elements cable when reattaching the trim, you really don't want to snag this and break it off. I would highly recommend starting here. Hopefully this'll help as a guide for those who might have this same issue (and save you from buying a rear wiper motor unit).

Popping these here in case helpful.