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Oh - your using a mac... That will mess things up as OSX add extra files which stop the SD card working. If possible, use a PC otherwise I think you'll need to use a program like CleanMyDrive on the SD card after extracting. Top level directory should just have a directory called maps and no other files.

One thing that is really important. Keep the catch lubricated and also try to lubricate the catch wire going back to the pull handle if you can.

I bought my Octavia SE 1.0 litre in August 2019 when it was coming up to a year old. I had to think long and hard before part exchanging it for a Karoq SE Drive a few weeks ago. The Karoq is also just over a year old. I have to say that the Octavia was probably the best car I have ever owned. I have had many Fords in the past. My previous 4 cars have been Fabias but for all round comfort, space, performance and reliability, the Octavia was the best (even with the 1.0 litre engine). My only problem was the rear washer kept getting bunged up but apart from that, no problems. Once the car was out of warranty I avoided main dealer servicing. My local independent did the oil and filter changes with me providing the genuine VW spec oil. As part of the trade in deal, I removed the full size spare wheel and toolkit with the intention of putting it into the Karoq or selling it (I thought it might not fit which it doesn't). I'll put it on ebay in the next few days. I bought a skinny spare and tools which fit the Karoq perfectly. A gunge kit is little more than useless in my opinion. So far the Karoq has been fine. Getting in and out is much easier than the Octavia but you would expect that. The Karoq forum has answered a few queries I had, how the automatic handbrake works being the most important. I'll keep an eye on the Octavia forum in case I am able to contribute to the discussions. Thank you.

As mentioned greasing/lubricating these sorts of points on your car would prevent a repeat expense. White lithium grease is recommended as it does not drip and repels water. £5-7 depending where you buy. I do my cars twice a year or so, all the door hinges, locks and bonnet catch.

Why not get the car, and have the roof wrapped in clear vinyl so you don't lose the pano roof effect?

...probably cheaper to buy the SEL drive, and then just get a satnav for it....cost a lot less than fixing a pan roof!!

@Planetse is correct about the cambelt drive, but the 5 year change interval was withdrawn last year.

Latch or lever to open the bonnet or hood regardless of no Frunk likely at the other side, and pull twice, as they do with BMW,s /MINI,s. (Thomas would know just because not stupid!)

Unfortunately, unless the led bulb has a parallel load resistor to mimick a conventional bulb , I think it requires coding to avoid the bulb out warning popping up.

Joined the club. 👍

Ok, trip to the garage, 2hrs of work, and bonnet is now open. All done under £100 and no damage done (I think they have taken out the bottom grille and worked their way up to the lock), but it's going to be the lesson I'll remember till the rest of my life

I doubt any Fabia mk2 had electric folding mirrors. If it does, the control will be part of the left/right/heat thumbweel on the driver's door as an extra position that has a folded mirror symbol in an extra position similar to this Try looking in your manual, you can download these from the skoda website if you don't have a physical one.

I know he has all the scores on the doors but with stuff i disagree. A wet road when it is not raining but has been like a cold road might not and often does not use more fuel in an ICE or use more energy from a BEV. Less grip / traction is basically less friction. Also warmed up ICE vehicles especially a turbo likes cooler denser air. Maybe tiny affects and Lights, wipers etc means poorer efficiency. As to rear wheel drive and the improved feeling of steering. Well maybe sometime, as long as the back does not squat and the front goes light. Tesla may not. 0-62 mph times. Really, 2 seconds quicker up someones back end, and do they really do it when nobody to be impressed? Accelerating out of a roundabout. I wish more with Tesla or any RWD car would. Funnily any i see are usually dilly dallying. Up you jacksy though if they want to show you they Can take you like a king, then let them go they are Road Kings stopping you get on up the road and on your way. Must be a 'Counting the miles thing'.

Can't think of anything the L&K spec has over my SE L Drive apart from the panoramic roof and possibly electric memory seats. I just went for the latest, best specced car that didn't have a sunroof.

100,000 miles. Rolled over yesterday (nearly missed it !) 😀.

If you didn't like the diesel before, you are still going to find them noisy if you get another. They have got a bit more refined but at the end of the day there is more noise and vibration from a diesel than a petrol, especially if you are used to a petrol engine which you can barely tell is running most of the time. For most of us that are used to diesels it's not an issue but on the extremely rare occation I get in a modern petrol I can appreciate how quiet it is at standstill. Driving around you will still hear the same road noise whichever way you go as modern cars are very well insulated from the sounds in the engine bay.

I wish mine could be soooo shiny after several months 😁...

Have you got a registration as different fuses are powering different things depending on specific engine. Edit: Ive taken the reg to be your user name - Octaiva 2015 VRS 2.0 TSI CHHB engine. Please post an exact list of fault codes, and also which of the 3 fuse boxes fuse 9 we are talking about Edit again: Interior fuse box SC9 is 15A and does all-wheel-drive control unit which yours isnt, so im going to assume engine bay fuse SB9 10A which is as follows; SB9 - 10A - engine electronics (for engine code CJSA, CJSB, CHHA, CHHB) Fuse SB9 feeds the following components on a rt/gn wire (changes colour in engine harness to either rt, rt/ws or ws/gn) - N80 charcoal solenoid, N205 Intake camshaft control valve, N318 Exhaust camshaft control valve, V51 Coolant circulation pump I would eliminate the easy ones, disconnect the charcoal and 2 camshaft solenoids and leaves the water pump, chances are you have water leaking out the pump, up the wiring and causing a short circuit.

230k! This will probably be my last post to this topic with this car 😢

Yes, I get different outputs on all three switch mode off, middle and on. Sorry, have not yet updated that. Its a Skoda Fabia 5J 2009 Estate. - Adding the full scan on OBD11:

N/S trim - 1S0 858 831 F 82V - £15.36 inc vat (number 2 on below image) O/S trim - 1S0 858 832 F 82V - £15.36 inc vat (also number 2) Edge Protection x2 - 1S0 845 437 - £6.02 each inc vat (number 😎 Screws x6 - N 910 268 02 - £2.15 each inc vat (number 7) Raised boot floor - 1S0 858 855 E 1BS - £126.89 inc vat (number 3) Credit to Lupogtiboy for the information above. I've retrofitted this to my Citigo, I bought the parts off ebay. If you've bought a used floor then make sure the it came with the plastic side retainers, I see the floors for sale on ebay and often they're missing - it'll be quite a loose fit without them. I also forgot to get the rubber sedge protection when I fitted mine and it worked just fine but I did add them later on

@mickg123 Does it not have a timing chain?

I always used to do my own servicing and repairs until my work supplied company cars which were serviced for me, Upon retirement I bought new vehicles with a service plan, but my current Karoq was recently 4 years old and I used a local independant garage which I trust and have used for other vehicles over the years. I booked their oil change service and MOT which I reasoned would inspect all the items that needed to be checked for safety purposes. As the car was low mileage, I did not get the spark plugs changed or any of the filters this time. The total cost was £195 including VAT.

I have fitted facelift twin h7 headlights to my daughter's 2013 Elegance without any issues. You will need to get the connectors that plug in to the headlight unit together with some of the wiring to solder to the original loom.

I have it in location 39 on a 2012 LH drive.

I can see this being true, I know when the manufacturers warranty of our Fabia expired I gradually migrated the servicing to a local (easier to get to) garage. I have done the same with previous cars as they got older.

Obviously I'd rinse them with clear water afterwards. I understand your concern but never experienced problems but only do it once in a blue moon.

I've had two Roomsters in the past, both with fixed glass roofs. I miss this feature dreadfully on my Yeti. Were I in Prezafab's position, I would certainly consider an L&K with no leak damage and taping up the sunroof with Gorilla or Helicopter tape.

100% belt and Skoda recommended a FIVE year change.

Don't use washing up liquid on a car, but just use on wipers (easiest if you remove them completely and wash in a sink using hot water). The idea is to remove polish/wax/road grime etc. I've been known to use brake cleaner on occasion as that removes contamination easily. Obviously on a car generally you don't want to strip protective wax/polish. Use only car products.

Budget? I bought a used chair from these guys - https://corporatespec.com/ They have a lot of very high spec stuff which is discounted but still not cheap.

The only Tesla Ive been in a friend demonstrated the acceleration (Dual motor) for about 3 seconds (then ran out of road) I felt physically sick, a feeling of intense nausea that took a good hour to get over. I cannot see the point and I can see this could be very dangerous in the wrong hands. I'm surprised that insurance is affordable. I did not like the minimalist interior at all, the fake wood trim reminded me of the stick on vinyl wood trim on my base 1976 Polo.

🤣 and that applies to absolutely anything not just car components ... is there some specific soothsayer course that I should go on 🙃

Fuse 47 is rear wiper

I've got to the do this myself. Thanks to all that have contributed to this I might have a go myself. I've already had the cambelt and water pump done and the main stat was changed too. But still have the cool running issue. So it has to be the dsg stat 👍

I’d wondered if it was perhaps something ‘invisible’ on that section of the windscreen but have cleaned it thoroughly several times to no avail. Have now bitten the bullet and ordered a set of Bosch Aerotwin blades. I’m not sure whether these might be the make that are already fitted, unfortunately there’s no obvious branding or logos to suggest what they are. I’ve had Aerotwin on previous cars without any issue so let’s see how we get on 🤞 Got to be worth £20 to get shot of the irritating noise.

Mine occasionally charges at a random time, I don't have any solid data for it, it's maybe 1 in 20 charges, but I believe its down to opening/closing the car when it's on timer. The car can go into a sleep mode if left for more than a day and that can be annoying because then the app comes up with an error about exceeding the maximum number of requests, but that's a different issue. The app doesn't like opening from a cached version, if you use an iphone then in my experience its always best to completely shut the app so that it gets a clean data download when it opens up. I've experimented with programming timers from the car and the app, in theory they're the same but in reality I find that the car is more reliable eg i can never turn off "allow battery" from the app for heating. The app is very laggy, so its quite possible that you pressed charge when you didn't mean to and the app showed nothing. Have you got your minimum charge set to zero, otherwise it will try to start a charge when ever it likes. The maximum mpg is 300, if you go further in the page you will see it gives the number of miles on battery and on engine, the regen can give a lot of battery miles. Good that Octopus have added the Skoda, it used to only be a handful of manufacturers unless you bought a specific 7kw charger. If you want a £50 credit to your octopus account then I can send you a referral link. You join octopus standard tariff first when your smart meter is installed, then once they've got readings up and running you switch to Intelligent tariff. Charger defo came with mine, it came with a 7kw lead and a 3pin charger. Maybe they stopped supplying them after I got mine, or I got lucky. Ah ok, 25p/kw and you're using around 8kw each way. The engine does about 45mpg avg so you're probably better driving the car in hybrid mode, but not in auto, and set the accumulator to 50% so the car arrives with 50% battery at work. Then set it to hybrid auto going back. (you need to use the skoda satnav for this to work properly) and if it still has say 10% left with a few miles to go switch it to electric only to use up the last bit. Have you got your graph for today (12th) to see what the charger did this morning?

Might I politely suggest that's generalised nonsense. I owned and drove this for 8 years and 238,00 miles from new until a low speed collision in the city wrote it off. It was running as sweetly then as when it was new. It was on the original turbo and the head had never been lifted. I thrashed it from the point at which I'd completed running it in. I towed a very large caravan with it on occasions, spent long periods at 100 mph on the Autoroute, squealed round an open road race circuit in France, commuted in it, drove it off road, etc...

@nta16 Honestly some great advice that I might act up on, The fantasy itself has come from the modern day car scene you need to have a car with crazy BHP to be seen as cool, I think I will starting off actually follow your advice and then hopefully when I get some NCD Under my belt I would enjoy to have a nice daily with some decent performance as well as you mention a older car to not forget how far cars have come.

Update car in at garage today regulators replaced in front doors working again , work done under warranty

Which engine have you which will give an idea to which DSG you have, so a 2.0 TSI or TDI and a 6 speed Wet clutch DSG.? If it is Coasting Mode that you are asking about when Eco selected? It will not harm the DSG as whatever it does in disengaging drive was designed to do what it does.

Battery. The first sign of a failing battery is the Stop/Start stops working. Might have something to do with the other faults as well.

The gearbox specialist who rebuilt our 6 speed Octavia manual box has seen and rebuilt hundreds of auto boxes. He describes the 6 speed Wet DSG as a sublime design and a fantastic bit of engineering. His opinion of the 7 speed dry clutch DQ200 is that it is a load of rubbish. But says he doesn't complain as he gets so many in for repair its bread and butter for him. If you actually research what's involved in a Dq200 clutch change youll find its complex requiring specialist tools and skills. I see there are actually 2 generations of DQ200, maybe the gen 2 is a significant improvement on the gen 1.

So... quick update on this... All finally sorted, new (lower) sump fitted by Liverpool Skoda and all costs picked up by Christchurch Skoda (dealer where I bought the car). Glad the issue is something that is easily fixed and hopefully won't be repeating itself. Car was off the road from 7th Jan to 9th Feb which isn't great, but I'm glad to be back in the Superb. Appreciate the various advice which was all helpful in negotiating getting this sorted 👍👍👍. Rob

No component protection for the climate panel on a mk3... It'll might need coding and basic settings etc running after fitting though.

Skoda offer a 12 year perforation warranty for corrosion. Perhaps it is still just about covered? It depends when registered I suppose. It is worth taking it to a Skoda dealer and seeing if it is covered or perhaps some financial assistance getting it repaired as it is a well known problem AND warranty has only just expired? It doesn't hurt to ask.

Hello, I found this thread quite by chance after a Google search querying whether the Citigo problem with rust around the petrol cap was common. The garage owner who sold me the car last year claims it's "common" and offered to repair it for £200. A local car body repairer quoted me £1,800 to replace the whole wing. I am now getting a third opinion but, as a pensioner (female) having had three Skodas from new since the Felicia, this is not an area of expertise and quite worrying. The car is 12 years old. The service record shows the car was registered in Aberdeen and there were no checks for rust damage. "Buyer beware" I suppose.

Missed 87k on the Fabia, and maybe 32k on the Vectra. However, I want to capture 88,888 on the Fab, and 33,333 on the Vectra.

Slowly approaching the most common milestone.

Just to wrap this up, I ordered the part from Simply Auto Parts via Amazon (marketplace) for less than £15 with free postage, arrived in two days, and I fitted it on Sunday. It was a bit of a struggle getting one of the hoses off the cooler, but took all told less than an hour. Started the car, temperature hit 90 degrees after about 15 minutes and has stayed there. First time ever that the car has been at operating temperature during my ownership! Very happy. So big thanks to PipH for his help and advice, and I would encourage anyone with low temperature problems to first look at this really inexpensive fix