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Politely... I think you should have looked at this in a different way. I'm concerned that you've not diagnosed a poor running condition and then mod'ed the ECU to try and get you more power. I might suggest as an option firstly getting the stage1 reversed. Then get a full code scan done...the CANBUS network will tell you if there is an issue. However, basic things to look first: Plugs - replace with good quality Iridium plugs Airfilter- make sure it's good. Oil change/filter - make sure it's changed and you are running with good (pref OEM quality oil - either 5W30 or 0W30 504 grade oil) If the car still keep sluggish, then it's worth doing a compression test on the cylinders to see if you have a problem there. Have you checked to make sure you don't have crankcase pressure issues (usually a sign of cylinder head gasket going south...) Also listen for issues...are you getting noise from the whole engine or just one cylinder? You might also have a timing issue. Has the timing gone out of specification? At that engine age, you should be due a cambelt change. Does your engine have ACT on it? If so, is the lack of power caused by this system not working as it should do? All VAG engines if they are well maintained go on for many many years. Please have another look at this problem if possible.

Probably this, similarly font -confused: F0A = no special purpose vehicle

Pretty sure BWB is meant to be 8WB, front fogs. Can't remember the other, and can't look properly just now.

I’m waiting for an estate … with 800v batteries.

Another SUV style car, stupid for the city. Whoever starts making normal looking small EVs will make a killing. This could have been an electric Fabia with much wider appeal IMHO. The e-UP had long waits for new cars when VW closed the order book (has long waits as still being made to fulfil the order book AFAIK) so the demand is there. Cities are imposing ULEZ / ZEZ across europe so a small EV city car will be in big demand and skoda come up with this. The Dacia Spring will kick this one's butt on price alone.

Future of car mods?

As title. More in link https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-releases/electric-mobility-entry-level-bev-will-be-skoda-epiq/?utm_source=x

Heko all the way...........they fit right and work well

I can give an idea what Skoda used to do or say they did, and what things are now. ? What engine is it. Oil & Filter changes every year. 9,400 miles. Air Filter, Pollen Filter when needed, Brake Fluid changed maybe every 2 years. Check, inspect, when ever, do what you think needs doing. This Green Chart is approx. More recent terms for services.

The steering whell should be properly centred when new. It can become uncentred if someone has done any work on the suspension of if the wheels are misaligned due to damage caused by kerbing or hitting a pothole.

Hard agree. The market's flooded with EV SUVs - we're in danger of being flooded with cheap city EV's from the East IMO with their low labour and build costs.

Physically or cyberattacked? If the former then why are you amazed? Its not as if other UK infrastructures have come under terrorist attack, cyber attacks for money I could understand but they are going to target those with the least defences and who can privately cave in and pay up.

We found the Kelpies fascinating and spent over an hour looking at them - with the walk to them and coffee we charged for 2 hours there on 3-phase AC.

This is what my Skoda looks like now

I would just like to register my personal disdain for most after market 'snake oil' additives. In regard to DPF regen enhancers there is a common thread that while they may actually do what they claim there could be secondary damage to the dpf, or other parts of the engine especially with overuse. Be aware that the additive which performs for the 15 minute (?) post injection regen will then be run through the engine for the whole tank and this may not be really good for long term holistic engine care. Simply follow the others recommendation to drive on to allow the process to naturally complete. It may take longer on a cold day for the dpf to reach operating regen temperature and higher speeds on a cold day can actually work against achieving dpf working temperature quickly. Your manual will probably have some suitable recommendations although I understand that not reading the manual can be a 'male pride' thing for some If you do a lot of short journeys and few longer ones then it may be useful to get a cheap Bluetooth OBCD dongle and an app on your mobile phone to monitor DPF status so you can better plan for, and meet, regen requirements.

So with me procrastinating over the seat and the foams needing some potential slicing, decided to look at the clock spring and the indicators: The idea was to swap them over so it's ready to go straight in. I've noticed that these clock springs have a useful 0 degree indicator: For the facelift one above, the window inside the clock spring has a white ribbon which aligns with the 0 degree marker to the left of it. For the pre facelift clock spring, it looks like a notch that is within the inner part of the clock spring: The white notch is to the right, with the arrow pointing at it on the upper part. It isn't there if its any number of revolutions out. The clock spring is attached with 3 screws, T15 bits: Then it's two electrical connectors, sorta chunky style ones at the bottom: Then one at the top, which has a few awkward latches: It will then come free: This is where it dawned on me that this was all a waste of time. The connectors aren't all compatible with one another, the left and right indicators having different number of pins, and the connectors locations on the clock springs themselves slightly different here and there. I've decided to give up on these indicators, as it doesn't seem worth the effort. Shame really, need to come up with another way to spruce up the existing ones. With that laid to bed, I decided to take pics of the stuff for servicing: The main bits for most of a 'C' service. Oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, spark plugs, and the DSG filter. For reference, I use an A, B, A, C service schedule for all the guys I look after. It keeps things simple, and most of the time means overdoing things. Some cars will have an oil and filter change in between, but in general, it's annual. I'll be doing the C service for this car primarily to zero off the time line for this car, and because 8 years of age marries up to the C service perfectly. It'll also mean just a quick look and oil change next year. I don't have shares in Mann, but it does usually end up with me always using Mann stuff. The cabin filter above is apparently some fancy type, so cost a bit more than normal or activated charcoal ones. The above was all from Autodoc, and came to £104.36, a case of scraping a few pounds compared to EuroCarParts or GSF. Now, one disadvantage of the DSG gearbox is the sheer amount of expensive oil required: So I have 7l of the stuff, plus a litre of stuff for the Haldex differential: Again, I've found myself using Mannol stuff for the last 4-5 years and I haven't found any of the cars blowing up yet, so more than happy with using the same for the DSG and Haldex. I imagine the Haldex will end up being changed every 2 years (the B service) and 4 years appears to be the expectation for the DSG. It was £12.15 for the Haldex oil, and £48.86 for the DSG oil. Also some gubbins for the Haldex: First RacingLine mod! Even if it's just some replacement fill and drain bolts. They contain a bunch of washers which is probably the reason I went for those. The pic also has washers for the DSG drain bolt, and also a pump for the Haldex oil, just the usual pump for these situations (have a few in the garage for the manual gearboxes when needed). It was £4.55 for the washers, £6.69 for the pump and £29.99 for the RacingLine bolts. I forgot to take pictures of the Haldex o-rings as well. Specifically https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/haldex-other-small-parts/o-ring-seals-for-gen-5-haldex-pumps/ and https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/haldex-other-small-parts/large-rear-o-ring-for-vw-audi-seat-and-skoda-n90443301/ which came to £10.14 with delivery. Here's a bag of nuts: This is for the modules under the seats, as I vacuumed one by accident over the previous weekend being too earnest. Usually take the opportunity to replace things with stainless when appropriate, such as this. £3.32 from eBay. Some random tools as well: Some picks, as I don't have any, and when I used to service the wife's SEAT Ibiza, I usually always had to get out some sort of screwdrive for the o-rings for the filters and whatnot. £6.95 from eBay. Another pick: This one for trim pieces, which seems to be mentioned quite a bit in the workshop manuals, £4.99, again from eBay. These also arrived today: New connector cover to replace the broken one, with one spare just in case. So quite a bit, and I'll probably miscalculate the total knowing my luck. I haven't included engine oil, brake fluid, or coolant, primarily because I have that stuff already. Maintenance: £1678.25 (+£183.38) Upgrades: £711.10 (+£29.99) Miscellaneous: £603.58 (+£18.63)

I’ve always treated the ‘Except for access’ as being only to get to properties in that zone - residents, deliveries.

If it's the same stuff as on the lower sill area then it will be the factory under seal I know that the damage on yours isn't on the sills but when i started having a closer look at my sills i found that where the factory under seal must have been slightly damaged that water had got between the sill and under seal so that you could pull quite big chunks of it off. These areas looked solid but were rusting away unseen if that makes sence I'm guessing for you make sure that ALL the loose under seal is removed and then under seal it although i ended up painting my lower sill areas because i like to see what's going on I've had a tyre place wanting to jack my range rover classic up under the sill which would have ended very badly if i hadn't been there to stop them.

Just got my first Skoda a few months ago after my RX8 sadly died (and stranded me 100 miles from home- on Christmas 🤦‍♀️) - 2017 superb with 198k on it. i didn’t bat an eyelid as before the RX I’ve pretty much always run Peugeots with diesel lumps… therefore I consider an oil and filter change a full service, but do it every 6k religiously, routinely had 250 to 300k no hassle, got one to just under the half million mark. And then the steering rack went engine still kosher 😂 I’m very glad to see that I can expect similar with this beast!! Poor thing desperately needs a full drain and fresh fill of oil… dipped it once and the end of the stick was covered in pure evil 🫣😳 I’m shouldn’t say what I paid for it. As you’ll hate me😂 pure serendipity my brother had a colleague who’d pranged this slightly and then not sorted it or touched it in months… and his lady had enough of it sat there so he needed it gone… got it for a monkey and a case of cheap red wine. Put a day or two labour and about £700 in parts into it and it’s golden. Never had a bargain like it in my life!

same size wheels. 205x60x16. both sets are the same size just different type tire winter/summer...

Finished download and install this morning (Fri 15th) - 3.8Gb. I can't see any difference but without knowing what it was supposed to do, it's really difficult to tell. Wonder if their motto should be "Simply opaque"?

The year started quite well for me with preparation for a loose goal of running 10km in hour or even 12km in 70 minutes around the time of 70th birthday in late January. Then the metaphorical wheels fell off with a small medical intervention, a knee damaging fall while walking my daughter's somewhat excitable and sturdy dog, increased casual paid work combined with a period of intense internal house painting in preparation for the installation of new carpets. Oh, and throw in a bad back, the first in over 25 years and I am going to blame that on the lack of running. So today I laced up for the first time in about eight weeks and did a slow and steady 4 km in abnormally high temps for this time of year. Everything hurts! But it's a start and we will see how it goes from here.

@Scotjimland That is no Replacement Schedule then. Loose words from them, 'Service'. Somehow these muppets think Oil changes are Servicing. Not just Oil & Filter Services. Inspections of belts is all about Servicing & Maintenance and schedules. They like money for old rope. Too damn lazy to even open an Air Filter box some places if not 6 years old, 60,000 miles. This chart is Fixed Servicing and even when first published was not accurate or covering all vehicles, or stuff like DSG,s. 0, 40,000 or 80,000 miles schedules. Cam Belts were only the advice / guidelines for the UK. etc.

email... from Škoda UK Dear James Thank you for contacting Škoda UK, it was a pleasure speaking to you today. Thank you for your recent inquiry regarding the cambelt interval changes on your vehicle. There is no service interval at all for the cambelt on your vehicle, with 'fitted for life' items that can be considered as 15 years or 180,000 miles. Please find attached the service history for the vehicle as requested. The information on the certificate is provided by our network of Approved Škoda Retailers and is correct to the best of our knowledge. Thank you for contacting Škoda UK. Kind regards

Wow, council chargers at for-profit organisation prices. I'm just going to stick with Tesla superchargers throughout my journey except for in Skye.

I am amazed that Oil / Fuel pipelines to refineries and from refineries have not been attacked in the UK in any major way that we have been made aware of. I see the GPS on an aircraft that Grant Shapps MP was on was disabled for a while. If it he was affected by that as in the plane / pilot was left thinking which way do i go then Grant will know what guff GPS or Sat Nav can be like. Maybe in his own plane or his TESLA he has never been lost, well other than when filling out Tax Forms and thinking where his plane is registered and maintained.

Could not agree more with most of that, these fat cat elites drive around in their hugely overpowered ICE cars spewing out way more pollution than you and I ever do in our smaller diesels. There are plenty of luxury less polluting cars that they could elect to use but wont.

Part of the M25 this weekend as well no matter what you drive. Maybe chaos for some EV drivers for charging.. I will lose no sleep over it, just as i do not over the USA and EV charging.. What bothers me is Climate Change and why because Scotland has 1/3rd of the UK land mass is Scotland paying more to get to Net Zero and for measures to reduce pollution. (Not really, i pay very very little in tax to the treasury.) I am just going on about it like all those Pre Petrol / Diesel members with too much time. http://bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cj7vz8vjgrno That is while the Westminster Government seems to not really give a damn about reducing pollution and try making out it is others than the Conservatives & Unionists with a war on motorists. High time there was a war on motorists who think 'I am alright Jack with what ever i drive, but not because i am poor, but because i have loads of money and fuel consumption, congestion charges, parking charges make no difference to me'.

If the DSG is a DQ200 which it is with a 1.5 TSI ACT then there is no servicing at 40,000 or 80,000 miles as the chart posted shows. That is if FWD, 250 Nm or less. 180 ps or less. The car in question is 150 ps.

I take the pragmatic view. If you listened to every single warning/issue out there about anything you would never get out of bed in the morning (although I have no doubt there are some sort of warnings about staying in bed lol) In the OPs case a 2023 car will still have some manufacturers warranty left and as suggested above just do the relevant maintenance otherwise just drive & enjoy

When he talks about the reliability of chargers and deflects it down so many avenues like, software issues, Wi-Fi issues, network issues, internet issues etc rather than mechanical or electrical issues he is just highlighting the disadvantages of EV chargers over a manned service station for ICE vehicles.

Wow huge amount of work there! I’ll just mention that the Haldex fill screw has a very small hex socket that is made of cheese. I wasn’t quite clear from the above whether you have one, but I’d get a new fill hole bolt before changing the Haldex fluid. It will be interesting to see how much gunge there is on the Haldex filter and in the oil. It was horrendous the first time, better but still fairly grotty the second time. Maybe it will be less grotty this time if the wear has settled down. Hopefully we’ll see.

Check the gearbox has been serviced properly at the correct time and you should be fine. The chart I've attached is a mileage chart, but assume 10,000 miles/12 months. So if you need servicing at 40K miles, I'd get it done at 4 years, even if you haven't done 40K miles. (I think there's a service chart that reflects this.) There have been problems with DSG gearboxes in the past, but they seemed to have been sorted more recently, and certainly a 2023 vehicle should be DSG gremlin-free. Look out for jerky gear changes from cold, which can indicate problems, as it should change gear well in all temperatures. My Octavia is my first DSG car, and the DQ381 box it uses has been fine. I do drive it sympathetically, and I'm aware that the Mechatronic unit may fail at some point, but day to day living with a DSG car has been a delight. Be aware that different implementations of DSG cars have different characteristics. For example, my car needs to be put into neutral when stationary, or it "pulls" with the clutch at the biting point, not fully disengaged. I've noticed that if I put it in neutral then back in gear when stationary, I can let it sit in "Drive" mode without it pulling. It promptly engages the clutch without allowing the car to roll back when I release the brake to move off. (I have an old-fashioned lever type handbrake.) Other vehicles have no issue with sitting on the brake at junctions, so be aware of how the gearbox works when you drive it, so you can reduce the risk of premature wear. For all the hassle-free driving benefits of DSG, there is a learning curve to getting the best from them, especially as changing gearbox mode can also change other characteristics of your car. Good luck!

EV charging @ Falkirk Football Stadium / Helix park, where the Kelpies are if wanting to go to Edinburgh via there.

Update instructions. You can use an empty ŠKODA SD card, your device does not accept other SD cards. And you need to unpack the update and copy everything to the root of the SD card and insert it into the SD1 slot. 1.)Hold the MENU button for 3 seconds. 2.) Click on update. 3.)Start the update - click continue. 4.)The unit will reboot and update will begin. The unit may reboot several times during installation. When finished, the update completion message will appear on the screen and OK will be written in the place where the software changes were made. If you have vcd or obdeleven go to 5F enter security code S12345 OK then in edit look for "confirmation" there you will see 4 numbers you will need to change using the calculator I will send you a link to. https://mib-helper.com/im-so-xory/ There you write the numbers and let new ones be generated and write to vcd or obdeleven with a space and confirm, then the unit tells you to start again (that means the unit reboots). After rebooting, remove all errors from 5f that appear due to the update log and you will never see these errors again because you have successfully verified the new code after installation. (if you don't have vcds or obdeleven, it doesn't matter, you can clear the errors at any time, those errors have no bad effect on your unit or your vehicle) . The engine can be started so that you have enough power in the battery, the engine must not be turned off and the update must not be interrupted, because your unit will get stuck and you will not be able to fix it yourself at home without equipment. Do not worry. Start the vehicle and you can update. I wish you a pleasant entertainment. Regards.

Hello, thank you very much for your help, the headlights work great. I managed to do it only yesterday, lack of time. the vcp file didn't work, but Oddis Enginering gave me a great description.

Hi Trev, I did have a think about this but I really don't need another big car at the moment... so I guess this Superb is still available 🙂 Cheers, Steve

Regarding mileage. I've got a 2011 2.0 TDI 170bhp DSG VW CC with 260k miles on it. Had it 8 years. Routine service and DSG service keeps her going. Things changed/fixed: Front wheel bearings, discs, pads, tyres, couple of bushes Dual Mass Fly Wheel. So nothing out of the norm for routine wear and tear and it never misses a beat. My 2017 2.0 TDI 190BHP DSG superb has 400k Km on it. Had it 3 years. Things changed fairly much the same as the VW CC, As others have mentioned. Routine servicing including DSG and they will do very large miles. I've read of some 2.0 TDIs hitting 500k miles.

There appears to be an option to change the weighting in VCDS

That means i Will have clutch and gearbox capabble of 700Nm plus, ready for the last step: forged,stroked, CNC ported, ceramic coated, big turbo, new engine. Thinking about driveshaft upgrades 500 or 1000hp from Driveshafts

Here is the pinion shaft brace which allows for 800hp-tested,and my internals are already reinforced. If you go back to my gearbox assemblly in Cacak Serbia, 10 or more Pages back you can see it

You keep mentioning 'locking' in both your post which is perhaps where your getting confused. It's unlocking the vehicle and double unlocking with the remote key. Good news is that I've fixed the issue. The problem was caused due to a break in the brown/yellow signal wire between the button and the control unit J519. The actual break was within the left side rubber tubing between door and chassis. A new strip of wire, a bit of solder, some heat shrink tubing and all is good as new. Thanks for your advice nta16. I hope this helps someone in the future with similar issues.

From £65k to £77k before options... That's not in any way cheap compared to a Kodiaq which starts at £35k ish for similar space. Thats a price difference of £30k!! That buys an awful lot of fuel...

The ‘crunch’ noise you heard would be the ABS pump applying full pressure to the brakes very quickly as the manoeuvre braking thought you were about to collide with something

Wow, brilliant deduction Watson, what are your proposals for people like me then, chop off my legs so I can get into smaller cars 🤣 My solution: just try some simple visual mods

Hello, what you experienced was manoeuvre braking - your rear sensors detected something that the system thought your vehicle was about to collide with (quite possibly the slope itself)

Someone who does not have a track record for misrepresenting the facts; I have seen "80% remaining" turn into "80% worn" between the mechanic's job sheet and the job invoice.

@Subshah Please stop posting in text speak as it’s extremely hard for other to read and search for. This is an English Language forum, albeit with global users. Using text speak just makes it harder for those where English isn’t their first language ( and even those where it is)

I’ve put together a review of my Superb Estate over on YouTube. i don’t think that anything I say will be groundbreaking for people who come here, but you might enjoy it (or not 🙄). link is here should you want to take a look