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For the 2nd time in as many days, I noticed a weird / futuristic looking Hyundai. I didn't know what it was so just checked - it's the new Kona. The one I saw was a base model in white. Now I know looks are subjective, to my eyes the bodywork creases and exaggereated plastic wheel arches look hideous. But that's not my point, my point is the design. Can you see the problem? As we know, LED lights can be hugely expensive these days so why mount them on the four corners? If we're going to find bumps and scrapes on our cars the likelyhood is it'll be at one of the corners. And then some designer comes along and says, lets place the lights there. I mean WTF 😲 The above pics don't do it justice, you should see the real thing. Someone could make a fortune selling 3rd party replacement front and rear lights for the new Hyundai Kona. Wonder if this will be reflected in Kona insurance premiums?

A friendly goat I happened across in Derbyshire earlier today ........

Get a fault code read done. Common failure is the pump reporting back as failed but a new pump often does not work because the ECU is water damaged. Getting a Gen 4 ECU off is often a sketch as the lower M4 screw rots in the case and easily snaps off flush. Getting the broken piece out is very tricky as there is no inline access so I get a specialist to come out and remove it. We always fit a new pump anyway and replace the filter (which VAG refuse to admit is there). The important point is to throughly blow the system out with brake cleaner and compressed air as it gets full of disgusting goo.

If those videos showed what the front wheels were doing they would be more useful. The Haldex will only engage (subject to a few other points which are not relevant atm) when slip is sensed in either of the front wheels. The ORB does NOT turn it on; it is on all the time just not engaged. And as soon as you reduce power it dis-engages.

I just wish that lots of the drivers of these big fat EV lumps could even do the speed limit on lovely driving roads and stay on their own side of the white line and let others get passed them if they can not. They are not going fast, just apparently holding up those that want to just get on & could as the road is safe to do the limit which is likely 60 mph. Maybe they are more bothered watching the efficiency / range they can get. It is not often you see the drivers of EV,s even getting away from junctions or roundabouts that quick. Maybe more bothered about the tyres and grip, or is it the cost of replacing them. Plenty damn fast motorbikes out and about and maybe even ridden by those that might have fast cars, even EV,s. Maybe they drive better than they can ride.

It should be called a Rotus… What really ****es me off is these “ludicrous” acceleration figures not attracting widespread mejia criticism. If it was an ICE car capable of those sort of figures there would be protests in the street calling for it to be banned but just because it is a ****ing EV it’s OK, downright hypocrisy.

If you reset the service indicator I believe that will switch the car over to fixed interval servicing. It sounds like the service indicator wasn't reset at the last service, either because it wasn't showing or whoever did it didn't know how to reset it. Whether you reset it or not you should make a note of the date/mileage that the next service should be done at so you're not relying on the service indicator. If you do reset it now you should also reset it at the next service even though it won't be showing. I used to service mine every year or 10,000 miles and used 5W-40 502/505 spec oil. I didn't like the idea of going up to 2 years/20k between oil changes and I was DIY servicing so it was cheap to do anyway.

Dear @r0bb10 and @Lennart, I want to thank you for sharing your update stories ! Thanks to you I finally took the plunge and did the update tonight. I have a Kamiq MY21 that came with 0270. Tonight I flashed 0308 and then 0330. Even though I thought I was ready I was surprised by 4 things: You must extract the files at the root of an exFat formatted USB drive (I used a fast USB 3.0 SSD) (You should have /Data and /Meta) It takes a few seconds for the USB Media option to appear when you enter the engineering menu and start the update Once the update is complete you have to scroll down and confirm "resume" to reboot in normal mode (it was a bit confusing at first) With ODBEleven you need a Pro account to be able to run the SVM (Confirmation of installation change), I thought I could do it with the "Free" level just having purchased the HW (still cheaper than to have the garage do the update though...) Everything works as I had the 00071C00 SWAP already installed and active. I followed the instructions given in the TPI that matched my VIN from ErWIN (2063258/16), except I didn't use a battery charger like recommended. I left the engine running during the whole procedure. I hope it will solve some of the issues I had sometime : - GPS location was sometimes wrong for a few days... didn't bother me too much as I use Android Auto but still. (sometime it would be thousands of km away from my location !) - Reverse camera didn't always turn-on when putting the reverse gear (only happened rarely but always when I was in a hurry) - My map had stopped updating in July 2021 even though I still had the Online services active till August 2023 (I re-enabled them tonight with the free month, hoping to get a map update soon). I need to understand now why it looks like I still don't have Wireless Android Auto but otherwise I'm happy. Thank you again. PS: Here is a recording of the 0308 to 0330 update (I only started filming after starting the update but you can at least see the confirmation screen at the end with the "resume" option)

This might be of use to anyone thinking about changing their moderately hopeless Dueler HP Sports to something better. It goes without saying that the decision to fit all-seasons instead of the standard tyres - what to get, mainly - involved many, many hours of careful research, most of which was undertaken while sitting on the can. Comfortable, to a point, and no distractions. "What are you doing in there?" "Looking at car parts. Just looking at car parts." First thing was whether or not I should go from the stock 225/45 19s to the other 'Skoda approved' size for this car; 245/40 19s. Benefits were mainly getting more rim protection as you can see on the pics, and a greater range of offerings than the measly choice of 225 alternatives, as well as the fact that on average the bigger section tyres were cheaper. Potential downside was that most of the bigger ones were extra load 98s rather than the Dueler's 92 and the consequent implications for ride quality. Not that the Duelers were particularly noteworthy in this regard anyway, though they were somewhat better than the skinny 225/40s fitted to smaller-engined Karoqs with 19" wheels. I didn't want to change wheels. I like these Sportline wheels. Yes, they are vulnerable to kerbing damage, and their size means having low-profile tyres, but I can live with that. I bought the car because I liked the way it looked, wheels and all. If I'd bought something for purely practical reasons I wouldn't have bought this car at all. My heart ruled my head. Slave to fashion? Sure am. The Turanza All Seasons I did choose in the end are in the bigger (alternative) size for this car. Thoughts after a thirteen or fourteen hundred miles are as follows: The ride is a tiny bit firmer, but it's barely noticeable. Honest. Part of the dead-legs late night research involved what pressures to use in the bigger-section tyres, the result of which is dropping the pressures by no more than a couple of psi all round, and that probably helps. They aren't any noisier than the stock Duelers except on one short oddly-surfaced stretch of the M42 near Solihull, but since I don't go on the oddly-surfaced stretch of the M42 near Solihull very often it doesn't matter. The wet-weather braking is better than the Duelers, and the dry-weather braking at least as good. I'd had a set of Vredestein Quatrac Pros (225/45 17) on an A3 2.0TFSI before this Karoq, and there was a noticeable drop-off in dry braking on that car with them fitted so I had a yardstick of sorts with which to measure these Turanzas, and they are much, much better. It hasn't snowed (well, it did the other day but I couldn't be arsed to get the car out just to see how they were) so I can't say how they are in properly crap winter weather. Other than that I have no regrets about having spent a not inconsiderable amount of money on four new tyres when there was quite a lot of life left in the Duelers. I was lucky that National Tyres had a special on these Turanzas at the time though, which dulled the pain somewhat. So there you go. A proper no-reservations recommendation.

Despite this morning's rain it was a glorious Spring afternoon 😎

Hanhooks not originals. My Skoda SEL, 20 plates, and now 23,000+ miles I'm pretty sure has Good Years, three still originals and one a replacement after clouting a kerb to avoid an HGV which decidedto drive on my side of the road. Just had a service and only comments are on rear disks described as "lipped and corroding" and suggested to me to have them replaced in next 12 months. However, corrosion is only surface and probably due to seaside air and wet summer and winter. I'll check on the tyres and let you know make tomorrow, Monday.

From memory, all information required (ET, PCD and wheel section) is there in the inside of the rim of all original VAG wheels.

Is it trying to be a WWI battleship?

@nta16 The OP @Nix2is in Poland. @Nix2 Your coolant shows an indication of heating up quick to an indicated 90*oC, the engine / engine oil is not at operating temperature that quick though. Is the high RPM you see there always even after 10 km of driving, and no matter you much further you drive and totally at an efficient temp?

That sounds like the immobiliser triggering but should give a dash warning plus leave a fault code in the engine and instruments. If the instruments report a key recognition error on both keys, the usual problem on the PQ35 platform (Golf 5, Octavia 1Z etc) is a faulty reader coil around the lock. In theory these cannot be replaced, you have to fit a new barrel with new key so the pain of matching the new chip or order a VIN matched barrel which takes weeks to arrive (in the UK anyway). However it is possible to carefully press off the coil from the barrel of a universal lock and press it onto the removed original but if you kill it that is UK £150 down the drain when a matched barrel is UK £90.

Thanks mate. There are a couple of members near me. I've messaged one but he's not posted in a year or so. May well try the other guy. TBH, didn't know the Citigo had energy recuperation. I'm guessing that the battery will be ok for a short period of time prior to coding - need it back on the road asap. Appreciate your help!

An official solution is on the way. We just have to wait until the facelift Octavia launches. Probably a matter of months.

You don't have to give up the flat bottom for this to work. There is a flat bottom version for the 3rd gen which works absolutely fine. Find my post somewhere on last months activity for the part number. It cost 720 eur but then again, nobody said this will be a cheap mod ✌️ good to hear the 4th gen also works but I am not a fan of mods that work only partly. Purpletom and Apretature's feedback on the topic was really helpful 💪

Air filter has been replaced , oil and filter due to be done today but it’s raining so that can wait

@Rooted I’ve recently changed the spark plugs myself at approx 55k and they looked absolutely fine and made me question whether they needed changing , I’m far from knowledgable on these matters though

Apologies , was a 1.6 tdi Car was used for private hire so had a higher than average stop/starts during that period Now have a 1.5 tsi also being used for private hire , current mileage 63k and im getting a bit twitchy

@Lutak64 As @petrolbloke says, with the note that if you more or less trust the vendor you could leave the oil (and filter) change for 10months/8_000 miles from this message (which is time stamped).

There's a company that uses some sort of sheep fat to undercoat cars (yes I know it sounds weird) and there was a guy who's just bought a particularly fine example of an early Fabia vRS who's going to get his car done there, but I can't fidn the thread on it and I don't find search facility on Brisky particularly helpful. It usually seems to find everything I don't want and nothing I do want. Other companies are available, have a Google. There really ought to be a section in "Maintenance" on rustproofing and enhancing vehicle longevity. Paying someone to rustproof your car seems a bit of a lazy luxury to me, and I think I'll go the DIY route. (When I can be bothered.) 😄

There are a few ground points In the boot, they are on either side and behind the trim so the only way to access them would be to remove the side panels. The actual spare wheel well does not have one as there are no wires there that would need grounding sorry.

The master cylinder is the same, the manual take off has a rubber hose on it to the master cylinder for the clutch pedal. Whereas the DSG has the same take off but it has been crimped shut with an ultrasonic machine. The heat is causing the thin plastic at the ultrasonic joint to open up and dump the brake fluid out.

I thought this one was a Porsche when i spotted it and right up until at it and i could see the badge.

Thanks for the reply, you are right. They didn’t connect the alternator properly, something wasn’t connected and there was oil leak from oil filter as well. So went to different garage and they removed the alternator belt and opened alternator and connected switch like something which was loose. Apparantely they paid for that labour and breakdown and I still paid for the new Bosch battery which costed £290 with vat. So I’ve been driving the car since a week now with new Bosch alternator and Bosch battery and no problem till now touch wood. Thanks for the reply though.

There were a couple of pygmy goats at a garden centre we used to go to. I'd go and watch them arseing around or give them a scratch while SWMBOS looked at fuchsias or rhododendrons and the other crap garden centres sell nowadays.

Its passenger side bottom of front end , in front of front wheel you need to take the bumper off to get to it

You've been reading about them 😅 Any Chademo rapid charging cars will definitely be the Betamax of EV in Europe, despite it was more feature-rich than CCS for many of its early years. Rapid charging speed might be another one. 800v chargers will be common place in the future. Not able to take advantage of that and be current limited would not be ideal. For example, 400v cars can only charge at 175 kW on Ionity 350 kW chargers because the headline speed is at 800v. But day-to-day usage, charged at destination AC charge points, there is no such thing as obsolete with any EV's. It will always able to accept 240v AC as long as on-board charger works. This link has the list of required physical controls: https://arstechnica.com/cars/2024/03/carmakers-must-bring-back-buttons-to-get-good-safety-scores-in-europe/ "Now, Euro NCAP is not insisting on everything being its own button or switch. But the organization wants to see physical controls for turn signals, hazard lights, windshield wipers, the horn, and any SOS features, like the European Union's eCall feature." Apart from SOS function, everything has physical controls in both Tesla's older design and new Model 3. Of course, people have different definition of physical control. Are easy to find by feel haptic feedback touch "buttons", physical buttons? What level of wiper control is considered necessary, activation of wiper or right down to tuning its speed? There's still time for them to decide on their rating criteria. But I'm not seeing stuff that people often complain about for Tesla:, climate controls, mirror controls, etc.

Hi ,I have 2018 2.0 TDI and I have similar sound,it is worse when cold,I have changed all belts,tensioners,water pump and alternator pulley,noise more or less disappears when engine warm,I do believe it's vacuum pump,car driving perfectly and no warning lights. Dan

I can't recall.

Thanks all for the input. Rear springs were uprated for towing last year. Definitely not sagging - normal people lower their cars, I raised mine! @J.R. You went to great lengths to advise me on this. @EnterName Never looked into the undersealing, any links?

So to remove the centre console, the front trims and gubbins now needed to be freed. First is the gear selector trim, which was done with a thinner trim removal piece. This piece is attached to the gear gaiter, so its lifted a bit to gain access to the other bits. The same thin trim removal piece is then used at the bottom of the buttons on either side of the gear selector: The wiring to these buttons were a little difficult to access in situ. Not actually sure how, maybe the centre console itself was freed enough to allow it to move upwards and allow more room to disconnect it, didn't keep track of the sequence. However it happened, the buttons eventually come free: The remainder of the trim with the last three buttons can then be lifted. I think I have just grabbed it with my hands and pulled it straight upwards: Disconnect the last of those connectors and eventually: This exposes these two screws at the front of the centre console, used to keep the storage compartment in place: First snag here was that the compartment wasn't coming free. Obvious step to look at was the electrical connectors for the cigarette socket and USB/aux sockets: The connectors here were a little bit more awkward than others. I was forced to use a thin screwdriver and some praying nothing snapped. Even then, the storage compartment wasn't coming away. It was fouling the gear selector. So did some Googling and there's apparently a button of some sort that allows the gear selector to be moved. As it is, with no power connected, the gear selector is locked in P. The user manual itself also highlights this emergency override, which is a yellow thingy. Youtube videos corroborate this. What they don't show is: This lump of foam. Decided at this point to see if the centre console could be removed and see if that helps with the storage compartment. With the trim from the gearbox, the front and rear climate controls, the rear ashtray and armrest all removed, what should remain is a few screws: Two on the side at the bottom, which the side trims normally cover. There is also a pair on the inside of the centre console: Next to the gear selector. There are a couple at the front: These are hidden by the climate controls, hence it's removal being a requisite. The remaining two are at the rear: Now, the previous post has shown pics of these removed, as the armrest requires this, and the console being lifted to remove it. This pic is from earlier, as the armrest is still visible here, but I've put it here for the flow! Sadly, the storage compartment and the whole centre console is still fouled by the gear selector: So I was forced to find this yellow thing. Eventually was able to determine it by slipping a finger between the gear selector and the foam on the right side front and rummaged for something. I found said something, pressed it inwards to the left, and lo and behold, the gear selector could be changed. Two clicks down to N. I've taken a pic for future reference, which involved some destruction of the foam to do so: Not too fussed really. Could use some duct tape I suppose. With that, the centre console now has a clear path. It is lifted up from the rear, which then angles the front to release it, as it has clips at the front. Then the console is pulled back slightly then up. With some additional wiggling: No doubt I will completely forget the steps to install this, even if its just this post backwards. I think it took about 4 hours to get to this stage, with time delays mainly around scratching my head around this yellow emergency gear selector release. I think it could be done within an hour if it was a mad scramble. So one moral of this story is to ensure you've got the car in neutral if you're going to remove the centre console! Note, I also put wheel chocks before putting the car in neutral, just in case. I'm sure the parking brake was engaged before the power was disconnected, but just in case. Maintenance: £1678.25 Upgrades: £711.10 Miscellaneous: £603.58

Quite a sunny morning, so decided to crack on with the interior. Want to remove the centre console, for additional cleaning as some of the storage containers have just enough nooks and crannies to make wiping it down in the car a bit too annoying. This will be a little unstructured, and also missed some pics here and there, as the whole process is a little long winded, so some bouts of impatience got the better of me. So some exploratory use of the trim removal, firstly at the climate controls: The trim should pop off without too much drama: You'll then be presented with the climate controls, and where they are attached to the car, which appears to be via some rubber grommets, akin to the engine cover on these VAG mobiles. This means a bit of brute force with the trim removal tools, but they eventually pop out: There's a bunch of connectors, which have red locking latches on them, so those need prying up before removal: The next relatively easy step is the side trims under and along the centre console, which have a single screw on each side, underneath a piece of removable trim: I think it was a T20 torx: Once removed, the trim can then be pulled downwards, as its held by about 3 metal spring clips: It's then a case of wiggling away between the seats and the centre console. Then repeat for the other side: I randomly decided to remove the front air vents: Used the trim pick tool I acquired earlier, where I followed the workshop manual to reach the rear of the vent and give it a tug outwards. Repeat that for the other side and there should be enough to get other tools in to free it: The side vents are easier as a trim tool can be used on the outside of them to lever outwards. I didn't take pics of how to disconnect them as they were a faff, some of the worse connectors I've ever had to endure. They are the connectors for any of the lighting, and it looks like theoretically, you push inwards a tiny dot in the middle of the connector to free them. What I ended up doing is getting a thin screwdriver and wedging it into the connector, in order to push the connector outwards instead of pushing the thing inwards. There was a big danger of breaking connectors doing this (I think one has been damaged as a consequence), but worse case scenario I'll just wrap the connector with duct tape or something. Genuine pain. Went back to the centre console, and this time at the rear: Now, I made a bit of a mess of this, as there's two trim pieces involved here, in my case the piano black part, and then the chrome outer part. I had to involve a great deal of force to free this, thinking it was one piece. No idea if undoing them in separate pieces might have made things easier. I then had to do some hand gymnastics to free the rear climate controls: They're sort of angled into the trim, then rotated into place, so the reverse is done, freeing the clips on one side and rotating it free. This was a bit of a faff. My force with this part of the rear trim produced a casualty: A clean crack on the chrome outer part. Something I'll have to replace if I care enough. Once that part is done, there are two T20 hex screws at the bottom, which when undone, allows for a part of the centre console to be removed: This then allows for the armrest bolts to be accessible: I believe these were T30 torx bolts, so the nearest pair were undone. However, the furthest pair had a bit of difficulty with access. After some um'ing and ah'ing, decided to just grab the air tunnel and just pull it: It was only push fitted into the larger air ducts in the centre console, so with disconnecting the connector on this air duct (presumably some sort of temperature sensor), the right bolt could then be undone. It was still a bit tight on the left, so decided to undo the two screws at the top of the centre console, near the top of the armrest itself, and then lifted up the centre console partially: This lifting gave enough clearance to undo that last bolt: I luckily have one of those knurled 1/4" spanner attachments so I could use my fingers to undo it. The rear of the centre console needs to be lifted slightly as a matter of course, because it's the only way to free the armrest: It then snags on some wiring that is attached to the armrest: It is then a case of some more wiggling but eventually: Moving more things into the house and it's starting to look a bit busy: I'll finish this post here, as it's nice interval. Next posts will be the rest of the centre console and anything else I remember! Maintenance: £1678.25 Upgrades: £711.10 Miscellaneous: £603.58

In one of my Roomsters (same setup) it was not enough to push the seat back by hand. It needed leg power! I had to get into the seat, then slide it fully forward, then push it back hard against the stop before the mechanism would allow me to lift the seat.

It's not obvious from the Download a Brochure page, which still shows a picture of the old Superb, but there's now a UK brochure for the new Superb as well: https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/71165c49-62c5-4f74-b29a-be6ad40d7373

I appear to have forgotten to make a post, but this is still here. Lying about as the second car as the Vectra is picking up most of my mileage as the 'family' car. Purchased 6th of March 2021. Which means I've had it three years now. 89k miles now, and plodding along slowly (very slowly) but surely.

You can be a daredevil and load up the June 2024, 2024-2025 on a mib2 high as Booboo and I did for Europe, release 370. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/518018-columbus-map-update-2024-mib12-high/?do=findComment&comment=5830006 That one does have cartography on it six months later than then 2024 one. Only works for the mib2 high not mib1 high. You'll see Boo Boo told us about it higher up. Several links too it, before that. Originated from the new Iron Curtain who had liberated it from Audi. Reckon that will be the source later once Skoda, Seat and VW files dry up on the 5 year rule. I'd used the 350 European one ahead of its combined release on this thread. Audi provide the file in three forms as I understand it. The combined mib1/mib2 high (the big one), then split into mib1 high and mib2 high. The conversation is on mib2 high here. It works like a dream. Theory is to due mib3 connected cars and the monthly update these files can be run off much more quicker than previously. They then lay about waiting to be released three months later. That's my theory. This one appeared three months before formal lease. Thus I reckon a good chance of seeing "390" in September. We'll see.

If u have the facelift Superb with Matrix Crystal lighting, then that bit lights up as the "Side Light". This is in addition to the fog lights cornering light function. This video explains and shows it clearly.

A few deer out the back again

I'd say definitely not glazed.

I had a piece of road grit in my caliper, front l/h, I could not shift it and had to take it to a garage. It scored the disc! Have you checked the back of the disc? one pad looks carbonised and the other looks as if some other material has contaminated the pad have they worn evenly and not taken on a taper?

I had the same sort of grinding noise on brake application but only after the car had stood a long time and surface rust had formed on the discs. Have you checked the brake disc itself for possible rust or other surface issues ? ( I don't know about the pad glazing. )

Blue Tit through the window

I went for the Superskoda one too. It looks great matching the paint colour.

"The Goodyear Vector 4Seasons is still a good tyre and I used them on a Yeti a few years ago. However, when buying all-season tyres for our Karoq Sportline 1.5 last month, I decided against them for 3 reasons: 1. They are said by some people in the tyre trade to have thinner sidewalls than the competitors, making them more susceptible to pothole and kerb damage.............." Sorry, only just caught up with this thread..... my wife's B-max has been fitted with Goodyear Vector 4seasons gen 2 all round and, 2 years ago when her front tyre was flattened by a pot-hole, I remember thinking at the time how thin the side-wall looked. This is not a scientifically measured observation, just my impression at the time. Maybe when I come to replace the tyres on my Karoq, I'll go for the Bridgestone Turanza all-season 6s

Hi all, new on here. My '06 vRS estate is now only used for occasional longer trips following purchase of a Citigo. I'm concerned about battery depletion and would like to leave the battery on permanent trickle charge as I do with my motorcycle. - Can anyone recommend the most suitable trickle charger for this type of battery? - Do I need to disconnect battery negative before charging, or can I just connect the charger across the battery? - Could I use the aux power socket in the boot for trickle charging? Obviously depends how it's connected. Thanks for any input!

That sounds very much like the anti stall feature these engines have...

As my car was in the body shop getting some parking scratches removed, I was given a 2022 Fabia Se Comfort 80hp. I was really impressed with the car with the Mk IV version of the Fabia good standard of equipment and refinement. I was surprised that the 80hp version of the Fabia wasn’t turbo charged. The engine revved freely and above 3k rpm it gave ok performance. Comparing the engine to a 2009 Renault Clio with a 74hp 1.2 (which I have to drive sometimes) the refinement and usable performance of the Fabia is leagues ahead even on paper they should perform the same. The Clio’s performance is miserable especially on motorways and trying to acceleration to change lane but the Fabia offered enough performance and comfort for higher speed motorway driving. Looking at the June 2023 UK Brochure it has a list price of £18600 with Solid Colour Energy Blue which is the entry level Fabia. Which does seem high price for a Fabia but It’s comparable to other new car prices and most people buy based on monthly repayments rather than list prices. Having the loan car for a week allowed me to compare it with a 2014 5J Fabia. The newer Fabia it is a big upgrade from of specification and styling. Not surprised as the 5J was sold from 2007 and is based on a VW platform from 1999. Visually the Mk IV is noticeably lower than the Mk2 but the interior head room isn’t compromised by this. The engine of the newer Fabia does look small in the engine bay The 1.4 in the older Fabia really fills the engine bay in comparison Newer Fabia's boot seems to be as practical as the older model. I found the plastic shopping holder found in the old model useful. Interior shows how modern the Fabia has gotten compared with the Mk2 Fabia I do like the sports seats in the older Fabia which are comfortable and supportive but the interior really showing it's age. After a week of driving around in the new Fabia I did miss it when picking my car. It wasn't perfect with the touch screen radio being a distraction when trying to change a station to a non-preset one. The lane keep assist got confused with roundabouts so really I should have left that off but wanted to try it for the week to see if it was useful. I just like the fact it was a nice comfortable car that I could live with day to day. Currently it looks like this might be the last Fabia model with costly emissions requirements and electrification making the economics of producing small cars like this hard to justify. It will be a shame if this is the last model but it is a good send off.