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And well done Pete 👍

BOOM!!!....😃.....followed the above instructions - and after numerous click and groans with the initial setup (12v to grey/yellow and to blue) ...I reversed the sequence as suggested - 12v to the common green/yellow and 0v to the other two and Boom! ...the door popped open...as did my jaw! ) .....was finally able to access the cursed door loom and sure enough - two small snapped wires ....heck of a job repairing them as only had about 40mm of wire to play with but just about had enough to extend / solder and heatshrink .......doors (front and rear) now locking/unlocking...windows working...adjustable mirror and mirror indicator all good 👍 To say I'm pleased is an understatement ....first posted about this in December and its been doing my nut in all winter - no-one appeared to have ever had the same problem - or if they had there was no record of it and any forums/ youtube videos / facebook groups despite months of searching......... MOT due later this week so had resigned myself to automatic failure and hefty auto sparks bill .....last chance saloon - and it worked! Can't thank you enough Pete......absolute legend mate.....several virtual pints coming your way! 👊 🍻 Cheers!

A lucky one shot of a fox this morning

Surprisingly not. Not my car, but one I got through MOT recently without noticing the screw (not nail) in the tyre:

If only there was a way to store the excess until it was needed. The energy companies and government will encourage the public to invest in Batteries because it's too expensive for the energy companies to do it without hitting profits and shareholder payments

Couple from this evening's walk........

Filing stations are well established and the Treasury must love them. The Fuel being delivered and as it gets delivered has the filling station pay for the fuel and they pay the Duty & VAT and then sell the fuel to customers. We buy it and have it in our vehicles, sitting maybe un-used. We all pay towards the Oil & Gas exploration, the getting and processing the fuels and the decommissioning of the Oil Rigs, and infrastructure. We pay through the nose for everything. Even those without vehicles. With the Electricity the public pay for the National Grid, even pay for the companies to build the Electricity Generation, pay to not generate electricity. Then we buy electricity if we need it, and even when not using it it costs to be maybe able to have it. End users. There are those that want nothing to do with cars o public transport and still they pay because there is pollution. But they likely buy goods and services and they need transported.

Fundamentally, lay the lot use only what you need. You’re doing it to future proof. Just laying 10mm Doncaster Inc cat 5 covers most of what you might want and adding and Ethernet everything. You may only is L1 + N + E to a commando socket, but you’re talking about charging a future vehicle. At that time who knows what the regs in France might be. My advice stands lay it once and it’s done. The charger I loosely talk about it the EV charge point and the AC DC inverter to converts to charge the battery is in the car. If you want absolute bare minimum, the armoured 6/10mm (subject to cable rules and french regs) Twin&Earth to a 32A commando socket with an interlock switch. As you would find at a caravan site for hook up, albeit you would want 32A not 16A.

The EU appears committed to a smart grid too. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=celex%3A32019L0944 To deliver on these fronts, smart meters must be equipped with the right functionalities, under the Electricity Directive EU/2019/944. Moreover, national authorities must closely monitor that they get the most out of the sizeable investment of smart meter deployment and that the smart metering systems they install serve the system as a whole and deliver benefits and satisfaction to consumers and businesses alike.

Well done you!

ISTR this thing called "Wrecks It".

Comms for charge point is as laid out in the podpoint explainer. This is optional. Comms for vehicle is to ensure vehicle doesn't pull more than what can be provided. Charge point gives a PWM signal to tell charge point maximum charge current. The cable gives a resistive value to say how much it can safely handle. Comms for vehicle are compulsory, this is why wall charge point and granny charger exist, you can't just wire up live and neutral to a type 2 plug. Charge point will tell the car a different story compared to granny charger, and only then the car will draw more power. If you don't want it, then just buy a dumb charge point or a smart one and don't connect to internet. https://www.boxt.co.uk/ev-chargers/guides/tethered-vs-untethered-ev-chargers-whats-the-difference-which-is-best

Smart charge points after ~2019 all able to cut down charging rate when it detects high load close to house fuse limit. This is done by changing pulse modulation in one of the signal to the car. The charger is in the car, the charger reads those safety signals to ensure it doesn't pull more than what cable and charge point can provide. The cable also has resistor inside it to tell charger its current rating. You don't need comms, as I mentioned regarding if internet is lost, you can always unplug and disable internet features for a dumb charge point that always dispenses when you plug in. But it's still wise to put in the ethernet cable from charge point location back to main fuse. It can be used for CT clamp, comms or any other signal that is needed in the future. 4222 times my Leaf had been plugged in on the slower Type 1 charge port. Over 3000 would have been done by us with the "home" cable. That cable was bought second hand for £50 and sold for £35. The old podpoint had Type 1 and Type 2 cable swapped every other day for 1 year, no problem despite being 5 years old at the time. Those EV connectors are incredibly robust. (I'll be on holiday next week, won't be checking forums)

For the vehicle or for the National Grid? Having read your link I now understand the comms side of things to spread the load on the National Grid and for off peak charging. I dont think the vehicle charger needs to know anything other than it is being supplied with electricity, perhaps it needs to know the maximum mains current that can be drawn to adjust the charging rate accordingly, I am guessing there is something in the Type 2 plug it recognises. No question of that happening, I dont even know if the UK style communicating charge points exist here, I am certainly not obliged to use one, feature rich is a turn off for me, I dont want any features, I want to plug in and let the vehicle charger do its stuff, I want to use a lead or charge point that is not going to overheat or melt the contacts, I'm still trying to get my head around why everyone is saying I need comms, there certainly is no benefit to me unless the vehicle charger will not function without them. Thanks for the explanation of the holster, very neat and I will certainly do that, I might even rig up one of those automatic retractable reels used for airlines, garden hoses and extension leads, I have a couple spare. Last question, what is tethered and untethered?

Couldn't agree more. As I said, every one in the garage thinks Superb is dead quiet and when I said it is not they looked at me like I am stupid and know nothis about cars!

Something like this: https://www.voltaev.co.uk/products/bg-syncev-cable-holster-type-2 You put the plug in there to store it. Put the holster very close to vehicle charge ports. That way you never need to re-arrange the cable, just park up and plug in, 1-2 second job, makes life much easier. Hopefully this explains UK smart charge point regulations, what is communicated in smart functions: https://pod-point.com/guides/smart-charge-point-regulations The communication between car and charge point requires some simple comms (resistive value and PWM signals). You can't just install a Type 2 socket directly to the mains, the required signals wouldn't be present. If you are installing yourself, best to get the cable plumbed in and get EV charge point professionally installed later on. Price should be cheaper and you get more feature-rich smarter charge point, may be even V2H capable. The cable need to contain ethernet such as using EVUltra cable or standard 3 core with added ethernet alongside it. Behaviour when internet fails depends heavily on the charge point. But it should not prevent people from charging. . My old podpoint would revert to completely dumb charge point. Plug in and it dispenses. My new Indra would stick to previously set schedule, that is downloaded and saved locally. There is also an override button on the unit to start charging immediately.

Your assumption are correct. Addressing your questions, I suggest running that 3 x L cable and a cat6 because it covers all eventualities and if I live was damaged on a single phase install you have a spare. Lifting the floor is the expensive and messy but vs an extra few £/€ per M. (You could even connect a house battery or a solar inverter on the 2 spares with correct markings.) So 3 phase cable is more about never needing to dig it up again. CT - At lease one is required by many chargers so they can monitor the pull from the grid. Many won’t charge without this as it’s a safety feature. If you were to add a battery, solar or similar you’d need a clamp to measure those. Not saying you will, but we’re back to cost of cable vs work. Ethernet cable… it’s cheap and many chargers take software updates or you can set/monitor them to only charge In discount periods. WiFi is often unreliable in remote locations, so why chance it. Essentially if you run 3L+B+E with comms and an additional cat6 cable, no currently possible proposal would require you to dig it up and add to or replace it. I’m more a do it once, don’t have the cost/mess of redoing it mindset.

If they hadn’t fitted an oil temp readout you wouldn’t be bothering about this. It’s just something else for folk to worry about unnecessarily.

I doubt Skoda would cover the cost of your repair. We once owned a Ford, had a bodywork corrosion warranty repair done within the manufacturers warranty period when it was 2 years 10 months old, the rust came through again 10 months later, I took it back again & the dealership said their repair was only covered up until their warranty period ended when the car was 3 years old, wouldn't do anything about it. At the time they even told me that they'd replaced the effected body panel, too. Which they obviously didn't, just sanded the rust down & sprayed straight over the top again. That's dealerships for you.

SMART Meters need sorted out in the UK. Eon Next had some Partner call me yesterday again about my New Smart meter. The one never fitted yet thankfully. Eon Next credited me another £75 on Friday. Warm Home Discount Scheme. I already had £150. They must have had money left over when the Scheme closed. Last year an extra £100 appeared at this time. No explanation.

"The point I was making about home chargers is that if the data connections is just going to be a UK thing and with the UK being a small market it will hard to justify a dedicated production line for the existing large makers who would rather make 1 product for all markets." Going to be? It already is and will be the reason they are so expensive and so few models available and why many if not most fitted with government subsidies. Just look how many are available on Amazon.fr, https://www.amazon.fr/s?k=borne+recharge+7.4+kw&__mk_fr_FR=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=2CTEHI9HNHPP4&sprefix=borne+recharge+7.4+kw%2Caps%2C162&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

Asda had 165 ev chargers at the beginning of 2023 they now have only 46

What does that have to do with the price of fish? The discussion was about charge points (they are not chargers) communicating with the national grid. You may find it hard to accept but look elsewhere in Europe or the wide world or look simply at the couple of charge points that I linked to and you will see that the only higher current wall mounted charge points permitted in the UK are indeed produced specially to include the comms with the national grid, I bet there is only a handful of manufacturers bothering.

Wow, there are some very nice cars there. Incredible how many different cars are there and that none of them are the BMW M135i

Can it come up under private number plate - V15DMR? @Rooted many thanks for your help and time, really appreciate it.

The engine and gearbox were remapped about a year ago. The main reason I went for a remap is to sort out a gearbox but is still didn't. The car is good but at the moment I can't say it is a keeper until I sort out the gearbox, if I can't I will trade the car in. It does annoy me big time. I am already looking for a new car, therefore the thread about iV and 2.0 petrol, but after test drive of iV I realised my Karoq is still a decent car.

It is an Ecotune Glasgow, not Henry's.

Looking very smart indeed, I love the colour.... I'm just waiting on the weather picking up a wee bit so I can get started on doing my Superb. I've been getting her valeted about once every 6-8 weeks since I bought her at the end of March last year, even if it's only an exterior safe wash as I've vacuumed inside, but it's had 3 coats of Fusso Soft 99 applied which has helped stopped the worst of the muck sticking to her,.. I bought a new pressure washer last October along with some proper detailing buckets and grit guards but the cold weather plays havoc with my Arthritis to actually wash it

I am failing to communicate, its not about whether I have ethernet or wi-fi, its about do I need comms to be able to plug a type 2 (if thats the right wording) charging lead into an EV for it to charge? Forget everything about the UK National Grid, it is not relevant, forget about off peak charging, I do not have that abonnement on this property, it is a rip off now compared to when I chose it for the Hôtel. Forget about solar panels, they are not in the plan, forget about V2H, I simply want to plug in and lt the vehicle charge itself. If I can plug in a type 2 (faster) charging cable into the (future) vehicle I will not give a flying four X about CT clamp, comms or any other signal that is needed in the future.

Its your future in the UK, one you have no choice about but thankfully not my future 🤣

@Vlady Is that one of Henry,s in Glasgow quoting £169? That is guff. There are 2 oils in a DQ200 DSG. They would not be replacing both, and no idea why they would replace 1. That is maybe someone thinking of giving it a 'Reset'.

Sales or Demonstrators, or brand new cars from dealerships can have tyres set at any pressure, over, under or the correct pressures, or any combination of that with the tyres. Never assume they are safely set or the TMPS reset. There are very very few VW Group / Skoda cars that have not ECO Bias tyres. Even if a Sporty car, and Skoda have nothing with much Sportyness. They are about getting Economy as in MPG, not Economy as in Tyres that are Economic. & They are often Over Priced if you replace like for like.

It is a special way you do the plugging of a Self Seal tyre. Not just plugging like a tubeless tyre. Easily found on Youtube. It is linked in the Self Seal tyre threads.

Surely you’d use armoured cable and RCBO or if the device has an RCD built in an MCB or better still an RCBO with suitable delay? Edit: To be fair to the guy, I do seem to remember documentation saying something along the lines of built in so you should use an MCB some time back.

We used to run Water Wetter in them as well.

I thought about it and I have a garage so I could install a outdoor socket or a unit to charge it, unfortunatelly we don't have chargers at the office, even though main boss drives a Tesla. I raised that questions a FEW times but the answer is no, as we rent out offices it is benefactors responsibility to install chargers, if they want. And they don't want to do that, crap. If I could charge at work, I would strongly consider a full EV. Polestar, I like the look of them, and should be good cars, but I want Superb (Lexus ES) space at the back, this is why I do not consider BMW, Mercs, Volvos, even in Estate forms - they all have less space, plus considerably more expensive to buy, insure and run and not more reliable. I came up with an idea, may be I can fix the gearbox on Karoq, I do not service it or something, at least talk to DSG specialist and find out if they can advise what problem I might be having, if I can sort that, then I can leave with Karoq.

Here is the wiring diagram for the passenger door, you can see the two motors and the wire colours/connector pin numbers which feed them. Hopefully applying 12v to one or both will result in an unlocking!

Interesting idea. The car is 11y.o. (I get mixed up with the other car). Any idea of the cost of doing that at a mechanic? Even a ballpark number 100 EUR? 500? 1000?

Go to Colombia, the back street garages there make transatlantic submarines!!!

I checked if there’s a UAE specific portal. There isn’t any. It’s just tied to vin. I guess you’re right. Maybe they haven’t updated it here. There are only a handful of Škoda cars here 🥲

No, it is done without removing the engine. You do the mounts one at a time and make sure the engine is supported when you are removing the mount.

Heat pump power ratings are normally expressed as the output so you have to divide by the COP (if its to be believed) to arrive the input current, I have never heard of one used for cooking. If households do start reaching their current limitations do not worry, mainland Europe is decades ahead of you because the maximum a household can have even a chateau on a single phase supply is 12kva = 52 amps, din rail mounted délesteurs (load shedding relays) are commonly fitted which selectively cut off electric heating, hot water etc when something like a kettle takes the current to the assigned limit. The smart meters cut the current before the main fuse would blow, I'm pretty sure the UK ones will have that functionality, less desirable for the consumer is that the energy supplier can remotely cut you off or reduce your current to 3kw if you are in arrears or there is a billing dispute, that functionality if agreed by law statute can also be used to limit all or certain households supplied current if the grid reaches capacity, France is doing a trial which means it is going to happen, they are just going through the motions.

35 minutes if driving all that time is quite long. No stop Start traffic or stop / start on. Winter time maybe 15-20 miles before actually 90+ *oC engine oil temp. Look on the bright side, only a few have issues. Fingers crossed. But just buyer beware. & location location location. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/522156-octavia-mk3-dpf-problems

35mn is already quite long. And with new water pump technology, TDI heats up quite quickly. My TDI190 is already 6 years old, no particular issue about mpg or regen though I only have a 15-20mn commute drive. The only thing is to full throttle sometimes (when engine has reached its normal operating temp) to avoid EGR issue clogged with soot.

If only any of that made a real difference. Luck of the draw. You are talking a TDI with SCR. Be sure you have an extended warranty covering the Adblue system. But now the TSI,s have GPF,s.

Because it is a gen3, assuming correct it will be the electromechaincal thermostat. They are very responsive. Despite their tendency to only last 60k miles. My Golf R regulates temp very quickly you can even monitor servo actuator position on the thermostat as the ECU see's it. My oil temp on motorway varies pretty closely 102C to 107C. Unless I press very hard. Don't tend to monitor coolant temp as closely but from memory it regulates around 103C

I like the reviews of this Ali-Express type 2 charger! 🤣 "It was more expensive for 26 days, through the Holy it was more expensive for 2 days, the packaging of the Boule was not mixed in the middle of the new, the charger itself was packed at the water-penetrating bag, as it was on the leap region, mazhe pratsuvati without Earth, maximum string 16A" And "Having bought three such charging annexes. One working on the drink of rock. Alone without working through tizhdena. Without turning a penny, and the guarantee is not to be lost. Not Raju kupuwati from The Tsogo seller."

Here there is two OCU updates 141 and 143 and an italian language TPI, perhaps you can do anything. https://mega.nz/folder/bupmCaqA#dGb8Y30eDZ3rx95kts3E_A

Here is a picture of mine: