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It wasn't done to my Superb today, and it wasn't even me who did it, but here's a tale for anyone who's interested. My car was booked in with the usual local independent in a few weeks time to have new brakes, an MOT and look at the rear screen squibber, which wasn't squibbing. In the meantime we took a 10-day holiday in Perthshire, and on one day, on accelerating up a slip road and joining motorway traffic, various alarm and warnings suddenly started appearing on the dash - stability control, hill hold, ABS, cornering lights, front assist and park assist. Subsequent to that, on a number of occasions at car park speeds, the engine would temporarily refuse to rev enough to move the car properly, and on one occasion it revved without me using the accelerator, so that I had to brake to slow the car down. I had guessed from previous experience that an ABS sensor might be to blame for the warning messages, so I took it to the nearest Skoda dealer who, surprisingly, was able to fit me in for a diagnostic the following day. Following the diagnosis (£69) and their apparently routine "health check", I was advised that the following were required :- * OSR wheel bearing and sensor : £607.42 * NSF wheel bearing and sensor : £624.82 * front brake discs : £769.33 Total £2001.57 They said that the car was safe to drive, so I continued with my holiday and, on my return, took the car to the independent garage for the brakes and MOT, plus this new extra work. They confirmed the diagnosis, fitted new front and rear discs and pads, fitted both wheel bearings/sensors and carried out the MOT, for a grand total of £1234.60 ! Now, genuine Skoda parts may or may not be of better quality (although I've never needed new wheel bearings on a car before, so possibly not) but to get the same work that Skoda quoted for, plus rear brakes, plus an MOT, from an independent (who I trust implicitly) for £835.97 less was something of an eye-opener. As an aside, Skoda had said that the wipers were not clearing and required replacement, even though they were, and still are, clearing the screens perfectly well. They quoted me £63.72 for the front pair, and another £63.72 for the rear one, when I can get the Bosch Aerotwin front pair for £27.05 and the rear for £10.58 from wiperblades.co.uk as I write, and I know for a fact that they are considerably better than the Skoda items. Interestingly, while they were discovering that the wipers weren't clearing the screens, they failed to notice that nothing was coming out of the blocked rear squibber ! Anyway, I needed to get that off my chest - thanks for reading. Incidentally, I posted something a couple of months ago about press reports that a hard-wired dashcam was considered a "modification" by insurers, and might void the policy if they hadn't been advised of it. I informed mine (LV) at renewal time last month and, once I finally got someone who knew what they were talking about, was told that they considered it to be a "safety feature", rather than a modification, with no effect on my premium - it's probably worth informing your own insurers, though, just in case.

Spent most of the last three days tapping on the kitchen window 😁

Threads merged (which is why the comments look a bit disjointed)

Ridex are definetely not an OEM part.... OE = original equipment (genuine parts) OEM = original equipment manufacturer (same company that make the genuine part, just without the vehicle brand printed on it) Never have i seen Ridex make a manufacturer part and they are generally the cheapest of the cheap for a reason. Go for a known brand - bosch, febi, mann, mahle for example.... Also a proper service is a lot more than just changing some oil and filters.... inspection of components that are worn and wearing is a big part of it as well.

Started with an audio/headunit upgrade as I wanted CarPlay for Waze and Spotify as I use them pretty much every trip. Went with the latest Xtrons android 13 unit, a little non oem for me but it’s a nice looking unit. Fitted it this afternoon and pre done the wiring for reverse camera add on which will be a great addition. To finish later on. Only fitted the gps aerial with it as I won’t be using the built in 4g capability. Wired in a usb to next to cigarette lighter for charging my phone. Seems to work great out the box the sound quality is much improved, all steering wheel controls/park sensors/ac etc show up as original.

You get the idea, if you need to ask "why?" please see the front wheel. Gotta wait till I can afford & sort some tyres now but they are nice & light at 8.8kg. Was a toss up between the Matt Grey or Bronze so I decided I'd go "a bit different "this time.

apparently it was owned by this lot and it’s quite common to be super low miles as they are not allowed to use for personal trips https://24x7group.co.uk/ I feel like some of them can have OTA updates done on the later ones , not sure if this is one of them though , maybe , looked like you could check for updates in the menu . It has the newer infotainment , but not wireless CarPlay , that seemed to come in late 2023 or later Just not sure if it’s just “normal” I am certainly sensitive to any vibrations given I am just returning a “used approved” BMW that had 3 buckles wheels among its many other faults . Went and looked at another approved used one and it had been repainted (and not amazingly ) down the length of both sides and even had overspray on the window rubber after they had “rectified “ the paintwork . I am almost too scared to buy anything now , it’s a minefield . kinda liked the ford puma ST but they had had more dangerous steering rack faults than seems normal. Maybe I would be better off with a bike 😂

At under 3,000 miles it might still be their great profit maker that HMRC has helped them with as a demonstrator. They earn well off of them. If not then maybe one hated and punted or has rejected. So ask the try story of the first registration. Especially ask is any Software update had been required. If they say we do not know the history then that is odd, if they are asked and lie that is a serious issue. There are people unhappy with recent build 1.5 TSI ACT,s in other models. Nothing to do with the 2018 WLTP fiasco. More recent mapping issues.

Cheers for all the replies. I will use some common sense and go for the more established brands, as, in the scheme of things they won't cost an extortionate amount more.

I personally dont line the marks up as not all manufacturers put the dots/lines on the tyre. How do you know your wheels havent need balancing if you havent had a machine to test them? The way i generally do it is mount the tyre and put on the balancer - if the wheel wants more than around 120g of weight i tend to turn the tyre through 180 degrees and recheck, it generally drops a huge amount and ends up with less than 60g combined.

Co-packaged, level and temperature @Warrior193.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/524893-mechatronic-failure-10666 @defsix Your thread might help others. As it is you do not show what car you are talking about or where you are here..

Fuel economy seems to be consistently good - trip around Norwich and back up to Yorkshire. Boot a good size and shape- it's more or less the same as the Corolla Touring Sport.

JR SL-01 19x8.0 ET34 Went with a 10mm lower ET from stock. I tested 13mm spacers & I thought the rears looked a little too far out for me, so I played it safe with a bit less. I don't want to go out past my mudflaps either as it gets muddy where I live. PS. The car is not lowered as such, just the factory 11mm for the L&K (10mm for the adaptive dampers plus 1mm for it being a 280)

Maybe it is a Cuvèe

Hello Ootohere and thanks for the kind welcome. Thanks also for the bump to the other thread which I've noticed (it happens I'm already aware of the prob with the variator cap bolts - cheers though). I've had the car from new, the noise started after approx 3 months, car has now done 23k and is 2.5y old, has been serviced as it should by VW - there is nothing suspicious in its history. I've a thread on the upowners club in which several others with up GTIs report having the same noise, but no diagnosis. The chap with the fabia in the video above has the clearest video I've found of this noise, it clearly affects more than one make/model. Mine was looked at by my dealer multiple times last summer (it's taken me this long to recover!) - they replaced the OPF heat shield, the turbo actuator rod and checked the aforementioned camshaft variator bolts - none any use; now I'm basically searching for info to strengthen my case before I return to them. I've spent a chunk of time trying to trace it myself and feel it's loudest in the area of the crank pulley - I've had the aux belt off to discount the a/c pump, alternator and tensioner, and have checked the variator bolts again, the cambelt and the position of its tensioner. The 1.4 TSI oil pump noise is different but is in the same area as this one, so is what I'm thinking about at the moment. Or some other internal malady. Hoping someone can shed some light!

The security partition is not visible using normal tools. You have to delete the existing files or format the sd card. Then copy the extracted files onto the sd card.

This is the part number I have 1S0075101 . It is for 2012-2016 VW Up! models. https://www.deutsche-parts.co.uk/mud-flap-1s0075101-new-genuine-part.html For VW Up! 2016+ models have bumper part 1S6807421AB and mud flaps 1S0075101A 2012-2016 models have bumper part number 1S6807421P and mud flaps 1S0075101 The 2012-2016 model bumpers do not have any attachment points for the mudflaps. That's why there are some plastic parts which should be clipped first. It is perhaps easy to install other than those plastic clips being so flimsy with so hard metal clips. Not a good combination. So VW fixed a bunch of problems after 2016 I should make a mental note to not buy a new VW vehicle before they make at least one facelift update to that model

Could do with a comma between Rear and Headlamp, to be fair!

Nevermind. I realise now after more reading, this is referring to the level sensor on the rear of the car. I will get it sorted out! Cheers.

I have had a trackace http://www.trackace.co.uk/ for many years. It is relatively easy to use however all of my cars that I checked have been within tolerance so I have not had to do any adjustments.

Thanks for the reply, it does indeed rotate as you manually push it in. When I keep the flap open and manually push the stem in you can see it has rotated, then if I lock the car I hear a loud buzz but can’t see anything happen. If I then open the stem manually and push the flap closed and lock and unlock the car the flap gets stuck again.So must be the actuator knackered.

Added a comment to hopefully clarify this.

Mk1 Fabia seems to be the pick of the Fabias, Mk2 don't seem to have been as good as MK1s from what I've seen on Briskoda, Mk3s (my wife has a 2015 1.2 TSI 90) don't seem to be as good as Mk2s from what I've seen on Briskoda, Mk4 I imagine to be not as good as Mk3s but I could be wrong. To me the German marques have been that great this century/millennium but some seem to prefer them, my neighbour went from Honda to BMW to SEAT to come back to his senses with a Honda again now having the problems with BMW and VW products. For the rough running my wife's Fabia usually makes different under the bonnet sounds at different times but if the engine hasn't been run for a few hours it gets rough idle from IIRC the computer program giving priority to the cat being warmed but you don't notice when driving. The 3-pots seem a little rougher but I think yours is a 4-pot, personally I've always thought of VWs 4-pot petrols sounding rough (and I'm used to BMC/BL engines) and VW don't have the experience of building small 3-pots, with and without turbos, that the Japanese do so well. If it has ACT, on top of the complex and intrusive computer programs and the car battery was low in charge from being neglected and car sitting around at a Dealership/garage and you were at high electric consumption, the engine, cat, not fully warmed, DSG, perhaps it all added up. 10 miles isn't much of a test run, personally I'd have told the salesperson my disappointment in the engine and asked for a longer test drive and/or a test in a similar model with the same engine and gearbox. What I call rough (or sounding rough) you might not and visa-versa. There might be a fault with the car you test drove, take no notice of it only being a 1 year old car the Dealership /garage have probably done nothing with the car than paper checks. As you might have discovered very low mileage cars also come with issues, cars are designed to be driven and very short journeys and/or infrequent use cause issues that you don't get so quickly on cars used for longer journeys and/or much more frequently. At that sort of mileage and age you could take the gamble and run the car in more but only if the price is right, I'd not pay a premium price or too much of a premium price on such as low mileage car (I wonder if it has actually received it's first oil and filter change which it'd need even more than a car with more miles on it (mention it to the Dealership as I did with my wife's car and it appeared, well was recorded on the computer system). If you're not happy with the car get the seller to put it right or walk away (I'd at least want a brand new battery fitted and coded) and I'd plug in a [ETA: appropriate for model with up to date program] scan tool to get a full report, salesmen are easy to deal with garage staff less so. Good luck.

No errors in Gateway(Lear) and no errors in any other control modules. I had error related Alternator but I fixed it. I use dataset from mibsolution(it's only one for Superb)

Well to start with, the wiring is completely different as its all done via BUS and not via 12v individual wires, you need a different 4B module, possibly a different BCM and you also need the windscreen camera depending on headlight type. Youll need ODIS or VCP to upload the correct datasets and remove immo block on the new BCM, VCDS is not able to do any of this. There is a massive amount more to this than just fitting headlights and changing a few adaptations.

@keifrb A mod might close this thread as you have one posted in the Octavia section as well and getting replies.

Drove about 10 miles, took some getting used to, but was the same for whole journey pretty much to my memory

They do not like sitting around not being driven. Then the DQ200;DSG can behave nicer after a bit of dynamic driving and a few miles covered. The ACT behaviour should not be an issue once the oil up to temperature.

it definitely seems to be related to revs , exactly as that review stated , describes it perfectly . If the car is at 2500 revs you feel it , if you shift gears on same road at same speed and get revs lower it drops right off. they didn’t check any pressure etc for sure , will see if I can drive the other one back to back. I wouldn’t say crap, it’s not super intrusive , but maybe more than expected . Thanks for your help

it was April 2023 , 2500 miles 1 owner car at ŠKODA dealer , apparently not a demo. They have another 2024 one, guess I can just test that, seems very unlikely 2 would have the same problem, so if they are the same I guess it’s “normal”

I'd go Mahle, Hengst or Mann. Depending on the sump plug used you may only need a sealing washer, or fit the plug that only needs a new washer next time, less expensive to but 5 or 10 of each and put them in your stores. Engine oil and filters changes isn't really a car service and only deals with the relatively unimportant engine (and cabin filter) brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres) then safety electrics (horn, lights, etc.) are more important, then you could lubricate hinges and moving bits. At 100k you might want a change of coolant, steering fluid?, I'm not sure about your transmission fluid, brake fluid, I'm not sure what engine sensor you might want to clean, throttle body. Run on a couple of tankfulls of V-Power before, during and after serving (and MoT). Don't just change the engine air filter clean out the box and inside the hoses as much as reasonable too, same for cabin filter and perhaps a spray if required. Servicing a diesel engine and engine bay will have you wishing it was an electric engine, I only check the dipstick on a mate's diesel and my hand was covered in black liquid coal dust - but good luck to you, let us know how you get on.

For me (MY17) only when opening the vehicle, not when closing it. The BCM is too old for that. I still have to exchange it.

I agree. wow, love that orange

Hi! Spent few months troubleshooting my car with this P0441 error - first I tried replacing the valve assembly (by the way, if someone is looking for 05E906517A - this has a new part number now which is 05E133366AN). Changing valve and sensor assembly did nothing, error kept popping up after one day of error reset. I returned this part back to the shop and installed old assembly. What fixed my error was replacing charcoal canister (part 5WA201801). It is located in rear-right wheel well. Bottom connector was very hard to disconnect, spent 1-2 hours with my mates and ended up brutforcing the clip out breaking it. Attached back with ziptie Now 4 weeks passed, error not coming back. My car is: Q2 1.5 R4110 DSG, 2020, GABAZG, DPCA, UAG

From memory:- Three plastic clips. drill hole first, push clip in then push/tap in centre bar to lock in place. One Metal spring clip:- Line up and push/tap in to place. Thanks. AG Falco

Exactly, which is why in my country the hire companies have their own fuel filling facilities, I've been away from the UK for 2 decades but back then all the major car hire operations at Gatwick and Heathrow had their own fuelling facilities for exactly the reason you describe, cake and eat it!

Skoda came back yesterday to ask me to try downloading and extracting ECE 1 again and it seems to have worked without any errors now. Not tried it in the car yet, but touch wood the issue has been resolved by Skoda.

I have a dedicated product for removing bird poo / insect mess on my car, but I find waterless car wash more convenient, so I keep a bottle of that in my car. Just spray on, wipe off with damp cloth, polish with a dry cloth.

1941 seems to resolve 99.9% of the issues, albeit with a dealer visit if the infotainment system has a very low initial number, as it may need a module replacement and an additional software update first. If you have a high 18xx, 1900 software revision then you can usually do it yourself, with the usual caveat of "You do it at your own risk" The only thing I've found is that where my car has received additional OTA updates some glitches have appeared.

The arms have a small line - almost looks like someone has run a saw blade across it gently. The triangle lines up with this. Torque wrench wise I have a 2x 1/4 inch, 3/8 and 2x 1/2 and these allow me to cover all torque settings from 0.8Nm-320Nm for the angles there is no need to mess with any angle gauges or anything, just torque the bolt, mark the bolt head and the bit that doesn’t move and do the math, a 1/2 turn is 180 degrees, 1/4 is 90, 1/8 is 45 degrees. Or even a flat of the bolt to the next flat is 60 degrees. If you want to be very specific you could mark the start and end point but after years of doing it, can generally do it by feel now.

New washer bottle cap in the style of the later Skodas with the built in funnel but found a black one 😁 also took dash apart a little to fit dashcam as I don’t like the wires visible where possible just required a little hole drilled under climatronic panel that will never been seen to feed wire through

The owner/pilot of a Spitfire was putting on their own show over the airfield. Fantastic to watch from the free car park 👍

And so the work begins. Getting ready to be shipped off for repair!

FYI the highway code has Indicating (and other signals) as SHOULD not MUST (SHOULD is technically advisory only although non compliance may be taken into account in an individual scenario, MUST is backed up by regulation, usually somewhere in the RTA) https://www.highwaycodeuk.co.uk/signals.html

I'm only a few days into ownership of my (new to me) 2020 Octavia & already I want to permanently disable this so called "lane assist". The weird feeling when it's trying to wrest control from me on the 2mls of narrow country lane I need to travel down to leave my village. 2mls of intermittant center white line coupled with the occasional solid white line on the nearside. It's not like I'd ever need to use an indicator on there, unless someone's broken down or maybe a non local horse rider perhaps. Is this really a "safety" feature? I like to think that safety starts with being in 100% control of the car & driving according to the conditions within your ability. I remember a traffic cop stating many years ago that the only "safety" device that needs fitting to a car is a 6" spike on the steering wheel pointed straight at the drivers throat.

Beachy Head West. Belle Tout (above the Pay Here sign), cliffs in the centre are Seaford Head, white buildings on the horizon are Brighton: Didn't stay long after this as a lovely pleasant moment, listening to skylarks got utterly ruined by Mr Very Important Obnoxious Tw@ (white shirt) who got out of his Maserati and starting pacing between my car and his, dictating business letters and emails to someone who couldn't hear him clearly (Unfortunately I could) 🙄🤬 Gaz

I have remaped my 1.6tdi with 160hp everything is stock , it just is a diferent car now.

As above, the new map doesn't just increase the bhp to roughly the same as a 190. The driveability improves to probably better than the 190. The torque increase at all revs makes the car stronger in any gear. The power is also usually smoother across the range and less likely to tail off towards the top.