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Welcome to Briskoda and pleased to hear you like your Octavia. They are indeed nice cars. I’ve never attempted the sort of DIY job you’re thinking of, but my guess is that the wiring is likely to be there, and yes, folding of mirrors would need coding in. Perhaps the guys at @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits (sponsors of this site) could advise and I’m sure they’d be able to do the job for you - at a cost of course. In the meantime, enjoy the car…

My new 2021 sportline diesel

You at least want a voucher or something for your next visit

Managed to get it off

Corn bunting

It is hard to imagine any mainstream car not having some hybrid, either full or mild. It is such a cost saving tech, despite what Davetakesiton say who clearly has not fathomed.

I didn't think the wire ring is for the nut cover removal, either locking or standard covers, the plastic pliers are used for that, which I have used multiple times for all the covers. It was my understanding that the wire ring was for removing the cover to access the rear light cluster, via the small hole in it. Shown in the handbook section on replacing lamps.

I took advantage of the slightly cloudy weather this morning to wash, clay, polish and wax it. My cheapo Halfords polisher decided to almost smash itself to pieces just as I'd started polishing the bonnet so I had to do the rest of the polishing plus the wax by hand. Of course, my 'fancy' NXT wax had separated so I had to throw that away and dig out a very old bottle of Turtle Wax. It did the job but I forgot how hard it was to buff off. It now feels like someone is trying to twist my right shoulder off 😧

That's a really good point. I've been reading posts on here about retrofitting a reverse camera, and @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits came up a lot. I'm already thinking of taking a family trip north sometime! Glad my theory about the wiring didn't sound too wishful thinking too!

Pathetic after sales service from Skoda Dealerships. Really this nonsense needs more from Skoda / VW UK. Deaf dumb and blind Franchised Dealerships / Authorised repairers. The people you have to report Warranty issues to and unsafe behaviour to. They learned nothing from the WLTP / 2018 kangarooing issues. That ended up with RECALLS. Well past time that the DVSA were involved.

That looks good. Have they finally fixed it after many years of complaints or is this just because chinese fixed the issue where half the screen was covered with useless information? This is what it used to be: Haven't used android auto for years so might have to try it out.

Tired of years of boring Yawn Grey/ Boring Silver/Show every mark Black/Had its day White. Times have changed, time for a little colour in our lives. Doesnt show the dirt. Never lost in a car-park.

Gandalf got new brake pads & rotors fitted today....after 90k kms, the factory original brakes, front specifically, were getting low. Rears still had another 5.5mm left. Decided to change all 4 corners for DBA Rotors and Pads. Front - DBA2806S slotted rotors + DB2384SP Performance pads. Rear - DBA2837E plain rotors + DB2384SS pads.

I've just emailed my dealer to confirm what the 57NL campaign concerned and this is the reply: "The recall 57NL is a control unit update to the body control module and prevents the car from automatically locking itself when unnecessary."

Update - B107c14 or 1080340 Park Assist Speaker Open/Short Circuit this was the parking buzzer. if anyone has the same issue, in the Near Side black B pillar behind the seat belt is the buzzer pop the pillar trim off, pop the inside bit of the plasic lugs out, just push them all the way through, then swap out the buzzer and replace. whole job took about an hour, but the bulk of that was hunting behind the carpet for the plastic pin in the plastic, and having to do the job twice because the metal clip popped off and wouldn’t hold the trim. next job is the 0343, which I think relates to side light/interior bulbs, which would make sense as it seems that there are 2 that are blown. Then the antenna, which may be a replacement, may be a broken antenna cable or from a quick trawl of forums may just need the nut tightening, we shall see when I get that far.

It’s probably a poor design with so many people having the same issue and across the VWA group. I have just ordered a replacement from AliExpress which has the emergency release cord that you feed through into the boot. Be interesting to see if that’s any good. Will update in like 2 weeks.

Errrrr, c’mon. Do you really think you’d need to have two tools to do the same job? Try again; it definitely works on the locking wheel nut cover.

My Karoq 1.5 Tsi Drive, manual, new on March 1st, 2024, had the same symptoms...losing power randomly at junctions and roundabouts. I was left in dangerous situations on several occasions. The car would fire up again after 5-10 seconds, only by pressing the ignition button on the column. I took it to the nearest Skoda dealer three weeks after delivery. They found nothing wrong after diagnostic testing. They, too, said the issue was new to them. Another dealer refused to test the car, saying that their diagnostic equipment would be the same, so not to bother bringing the car in for testing. Every time I got in the car, the first thing I did was to turn off the start/stop function. I tried E5 petrol...no difference. I began to plan my driving routes so as to avoid as many junctions/roundabouts as I could. My car was on a 3-year Personal Hire Contract. Eventually, after regular stress to my passengers and myself, I got Skoda Finance involved. I managed to get my contract terminated, without penalty. I am now awaiting delivery of a Qashqai! Let's hope for better times ahead!

Thank you for the quick responses. In the 6 years I had the car I have never seen anything like this, so I was going into a slight panic, thinking the holiday was going to be ruined with chasing repair shops and having no car to get around. But I will call off the alarm and have a glass of cold wine. 😁

Going to view one tomorrow. Currently have a 1.2tsi yeti. What is a rapid like to live with? Any specific issues to look out for? It’s a 1 previous owner family car, but we need the rear leg room. Have looked at Octavia’s again but very few locally within my budget (mostly newer cars and out of price range). Wife is worried that the interior looks a little basic and dated but Skoda’s tend to be a little like Lego and I’m sure people here have swapped trims etc to lift the interior slightly? With this one it already has sat nav and dab but it’s not a Columbus it’s and older 3 button one with a tiny screen (Amundsen?) so maybe changing that will update the dash area a little? Has anyone changed the basic air con dials to climatronic? thanks in advance

No it should be the one that you were videoing under that steel bracket in the enigne bay beside the expansion tank, at least I think so on that year of common rail. Maybe hold a screwdriver to it and put it on your ear to try and pinpoint the noise but from the video it seemed like a good place to start considering your running issues.

I experienced two false tyre warning light episodes in the 5 years I owned my Yeti and I have had two on my present car a now 5 year old Audi A3. These things just happen. As regards warning warning lights in general, these frequently occur when battery voltage is low or the battery has been replaced. Once a new/fully charged battery is in place then the dash and warning lights usually sort themselves out after a mile or so of driving. Colin

OBDeleven

If you send us a message with your reg or VIN, we can take a look for you!

Was the kangaroo a recall? My car is 2020 how do I find out if it had been done, although I don't think it has as I can get it to kangaroo it accelerating very gently.

Adding car to home WiFi did the trick for me.

Hi, @varooom is it possible if u can send me an update because I’m getting really bad CarPlay issue, I have a Skoda fabia 2018

Did you drive the car? Lights normally go out after a few metres of driving.

They never install unused wiring, they must have done the maths and found it to be more cost effective to have X amount of different harnesses with varying options 🙂

Where does the clutch bite, near the top?

There's just enough roof for a decent sized knife.

Now people will think when stealing from a car to check where the umbrella is kept incase someone thought it a good place for money, drugs or whatever and not just something like a brush.

Checked my wife's entry but could only see the Type and nothing I could 'Classify'. Maybe more obvious than I found it However, I created a new entry for 'Wife' and added her number. Imported contacts in the car and only one number appeared when I used Voice Control to call her I'll keep fiddling but for now that helps

Yes, agree with everyone else. It will be condensate from the HVAC unit. Check the coolant levels (when cold), brake fluid and oil too, but if they are all normal, you are all good.

Like others have said, keep an eye on all your fluid levels. But if its not oil and there's no colour/smell/taste, chances are it's just a/c condensation

If you are new to all this then you should take careful note of the advice already given here. First tuning you do on any vehicle is full and proper servicing of the whole car, on a 8-9 year old car that won't be the minimum serving and maintenance that most Dealerships/garages do, their servicing boils down to an engine oil & filter change and a look for other chargeable work. If the car isn't well serviced, maintained and set up then any further tuning will be have limited success. Engine tuning is always last on a properly set up car, brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres) are done before engine. A couple of points now that you and others may not appreciate being mentioned, the best, and easily transferable, to any car tuning is further driver training, not race track stuff but real world on the road driving. If you make changes to your car you will first need to check how this may effect your insurance. As well as the tuning I've just put above their are chips that can improve performance of the engine which can also improve the mpg perhaps even without the same amount of stress on the engine set up as some other tunes - mpg improvements of course until you mash the accelerator fully into the floor covering that is. Perhaps you need to drive other standard 2015 1.2 turbo Fabias to see how yours compares, to see if it's lacking generally to others similar. No matter how much more acceleration you get it's never enough in perfect situations and you'll want more as you've got used to it. HTH.

The Fabia Mk 4 "Monte Carlo" model has 17"-diameter wheels as standard, or 18"-diameter wheels as an (expensive) option. There is plenty of on-line discussion about peculiar 'noises' from VAG cars fitted with the 1.5TSI motor that has ACT (Active Cylinder Technology) but there's no persuasive reason to think ACT should produce vibration in the steering. The common-sense approach for Scott to take would be to test-drive another Fabia Monte-Carlo with the same specification and check if it behaves in the same way.

Before what kicks in, any power? If so, the question you need to be askingis why you have such little power there. These engines are typically way better at the low-mid nd than the mid-high, mine feels great around 2k revs but has dropped any power by 4k If so, throttle response will change nothing. I tried the XLR5 once and returned it after a week. Although it felt great whilst in gears, it was so impractical whilst setting off from stationary as one tiny touch of the pedal nearly sent it to redline, bye bye clutch. Suppose, if you get used to a setting it wont be so bad. Really though, if power is the issue you should be looking at a tuner chip from racechip and not an XLR5 pedal box. or both, theyd both work together. I use the RS Chip, which "gains" 16hp and 44Nm, but the difference can very much be felt between race mode and standard. If you have access to OBDeleven or VCDS there is a slight tweak you can make to your throttle pedal to so called increase the responsivity.

You do realise that compressor surge is a very bad thing for your turbo.

Yes normally the tailgate can be opened from the handle at the back. I would just check that the car is definitely fully unlocked, I seem to recall mine had the selectable option in the infotainment that the first key fob unlock press would only unlock the driver’s door, or both front doors, or all doors. Not sure where the tailgate figured in all that, but as a first step try pressing the unlock button on the key fob twice, see if the boot can then be opened from the handle.

No, absolutely not.

And so the work begins. Getting ready to be shipped off for repair!

The Skoda Rapid and Seat Toledo were manufactured by Skoda in Czechia on the same production line . In terms of dimensions there is only millimeters in it. There are only cosmetic differences between the two cars. For some reason the Toledo always came substantially better equipped for the same money.

I had the 1.4 L&K...great car, good performance and 40+mpg average, but I would not get another one due to the (potential) sun roof issues, (and the silly prices)...

Well, i managed to retrofit rear usb ports. As i mentioned i bought the plastic trim with the USBs holes. (5E3863618 (9B9) The USB module with 2 USBs - C ports is the 3G5035954A An cheap sourch is from a Poland site named SkodaParts (https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/3g5035954a-usb-c-connector-skoda-38659.html) I did the wiring. I bought some plugs for this purpose. The black to connect the wiring to the car's (needs a little modification), the red to connect the existing contact of the front seats and the brown for the rear seats USB. The black plug (female) needs a bit of cutting to get the male red plug in. Please see the photo below: And this is the wiring Each plug has 4 pins. Connect 1 to 1, 2 to 2 and 3 to 3 to all plugs. 4 only needs to be connected from the black female to the red male. The new USBs that we will put back do not need to be connected to No.4. This is the schematic This is the result of the preparation.

Only take the power leads from the front to the back, not the data leads - you can't have additional media sources for the infotainment system.

I am willing doing this retrofit. I currently have the plastic trim with the 2 holes for the USB ports to fit through. The code is 5E3863618 (9B9) The hard part is the wiring. There is no wiring in the car so if someone wants to add these ports they have to build it themselves. I'm thinking of getting power from the wiring of the front USB ports. This is the existing connector for the front USB Ports

Before I left work today I raised the seat as high as it would go and pushed it forward so I could see where it should be connected. Plugged it in and the heating element in the seat back started working 👍🏻

An engine.

It is fundamentally a brilliant car, but the SW is rubbish, so many problems and often repetitions many months apart. Can’t help but think they have poor quality chips and software and so it acts up all over the place. Not just the Octavia, it’s a VAG issue on all their vehicles it seems.