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hard to tell on this thread when someone is being serious or whether it's just their tin foil hat impacting onthe message

Why do so many users always complain about technology and touchscreens? How often do you change the climate temperature or air conditioner settings? I usually set the temperature and almost never change it. I think Octavia's touchscreen is very good. I used to drive Peugeot 308 - it had regular errors, worked slowly, etc. Octavia, after the update, I have not seen such problems anymore. About the lane assistant - very useful, especially on long trips. In winter, I drive through all of Europe to the Austrian Alps. It was super comfortable to drive using the adaptive cruise, matrix lights, lane assistant etc. After driving at least 1000 km without long stops, I didn't feel particularly tired, because I didn't have to press the gas and brake pedals, change lights etc. all the time. I have concluded that you should not resist technology, but you should learn how to use it to make your everyday life easier.

Make & Model: Skoda, SUPERB, Estate, 2011, Semi-Auto, 1968 Colour: Amethyst Purple metallic 3X3X Mileage: 121,500 Price: £ 3,000 Description: Fantastic car in great condition new 12 months MOT until November 2025 (no advisories). any check or test welcome. Colour is bronze with a hint of purple! Had a bashed wing and broken headlight when I bought it but had it professionally repaired it's spot on now but is a CAT N. Can been seen in Carlisle. Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: recent service, front discs and pads and gearbox oil change Extras: Reversing camera and upgraded Stereo with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. Removable Towbar fitted it's a great tow car. New 17inch Alloys fitted in the last 12 months Collection: Carlisle, UK Pictures:

I use something called a foot. Works every time and reacts just how I want it to.

as a you tuber who often does pieces to camera, it's just like having a conversation with a passenger. Presumably you're not proposing we all take a vow of silence when we sit in the car? I use a voice command to start the camera and then I speak. Simple, and the camera is usually in the panoramic glass roof so obscuring only my view of the heavens

Will try to do that Pete but today completely given over to celebrating my wife's birthday. Inexplicably she takes these anniversaries seriously. I think of mine as an intrusion.

I'm a moderator on a UK motorhome forum (24 years of participation and over 24K postings). When sterling was very strong against the euro, buying a new or used left-hand-drive motorhome in Continental Europe and importing it to the UK was quite common and I did this myself in 2005. When it comes to UK-registering a NEW LHD motorhome imported to the UK, the current headlight and speedometer 'acceptability' rules are shown below and these should also apply when a secondhand LHD car is being imported. There's official guidance here https://www.gov.uk/importing-vehicles-into-the-uk/registering-an-imported-vehicle https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/6570647e739135000db03bd4/inf106-how-to-import-a-vehicle-into-the-united-kingdom.pdf The UK's MOT inspection manual can be found here - with sections 4 and 7 relating respectively to lighting and speedometers. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles The headlamp-related MOT rules say It’s acceptable for masks or converter kits to be fitted to right hand dip headlamps to temporarily alter the lamp for use in the UK by removing the beam ‘kick-up’ to the right. but this conflicts with the importing regulations I've listed above. When I imported a new LHD Ford Transit-based motorhome in 2005 it was primarily to use it in Continental Europe (though the cost savings were significant too!) The importing rules relating to lighting and speedometers were similar back then, but the buyer was not asked to confirm if the vehicle conformed or had been modified to conform and imported motorhomes were not being physically inspected at the UK-registration stage. I never swapped that motorhome's headlamps and speedometer as a) I wanted to drive the motorhome outside the UK where the original right-dipping headlamps and kmh-only speedometer would be preferable and b) with the Transit it was an expensive and far from easy exercise. The MOT test was passed by sticking black adhesive 'masks; to the headlamps prior to the test and removing the masks immediately afterwards. Unlike the importing regulations, the UK MOT test is much simpler and easier-going where speedometers are concerned, as will be seen from the rules below. I bought another new LHD motorhome in 2015, but this time via a UK dealership rather than importing it myself and, In this instance, before I took delivery the dealership had replaced the right-dipping headlamps and modified the speedometer with a mph/kmh overlay to meet the UK's importing regulations. FOG-LAMPS. One rear fog-lamp is mandatory (NOT two) and this needs to be centrally positioned or on the driver's side of the vehicle. I believe a LHD Fabia Mk4 will have a single rear fog-lamp on its left side (UK nearside) and this will conflict with general UK lighting regulations and the UK MOT test's rules. Both of my LHD imported motorhomes had as standard a fog-lamp on each side of the rear bodywork (as does my 2009 Skoda Roomster) but some motorhomes (and many cars) have just a single rear fog-lamp. When a 'single fog-lamp' LHD vehicle is to be imported to the UK, meeting the UK rules van can prove challenging and demand (expensive) light-unit replacement or adding a supplementary fog-lamp.

I've just made the jump from a MK7.5 Golf R estate to a 1 year old ex-demo vRS245. The cockpit and dashboard are miles ahead of the Golf and is pretty much everything the Golf should have been. The vRS does let itself down a little bit with cheap plastics here and there. As for the infotainment etc, I've got used to the Octavia now and it's easy to navigate and use. As already mentioned above, it takes a bit of time to get used to it but have patience. My other half has. Golf Mk8 r-line and the infotainment in this is really distracting to use , especially with the soft touch buttons on the wheel. The infotainment on the Golf, amongst other things, was enough for me to not even consider it as a replacement vehicle. I find the Octavia a good balance between my old Golf with mainly conventional controls and the Golf Mk8 which is too far the other way. Voice control is a massive help as it takes away the need to look at the screen etc. Took me a little while to get used to the Skoda infotainment but now I have , I find it quite easy to use and very functional.

No EV needed for purchase. Please form an orderly queue, ladies. 😄

That cant be difficult surely? What's the difference in Tacho requirements between a petrol, a diesel & an EV? All the same surely as its related to time & distance not to motive power

shock horror Youtuber breaking UK law whilst driving on public roads in the UK ? Whatever next? Cameras obstructing half the windscreen? Exceeding the posted speed limit? Driving whilst distracted (pieces to camera)? Wonder what other common examples there are ?

As you can see in the two charts below, the bigger brake discs don't just have a bigger diameter but are thicker too...so new brake calipers are required. However, I suggest you look into fitting 314x30mm front brakes only because as well as being a lot cheaper than changing front and back will allow you to still run 16" wheels. This can be handy if you've got a 16" spare because even the 310x22mm rear discs would need at least 17" rims to clear the rear brake calipers (according to one forum member, but I suspect this is true). The only Skoda the 314x30mm front brake discs were used on was the Kodiaq, probably the 150HP model...although that is a heavier car than the Octavia MK3. The 314x30mm appears to be a much cheaper brake disc size than 340x30mm but is similarly bulky due to the shared 30mm brake disc width and they both use the same beefy front brake calipers. The 314x30mm front brakes are a TRW brake system. Front brakes 312x25mm 340x30mm Rear brake discs 272x10mm 310x22mm Skoda parts diagram for 314x30mm front brakes (from Kodiaq) https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/KOD/804/6/615/615010 Left brake caliper for 314x30mm and 340x30mm front brake disc 3C0615123 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/2184642#brake-caliper Right brake caliper for 314x30mm and 340x30mm front brake disc 3C0615123 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/2184643#brake-caliper Left brake caliper carrier for 314x30mm front brake disc 7N0615125 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/2183223#carrier-brake-caliper Right brake caliper carrier for 314x30mm front brake disc 7N0615126 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/2183224#carrier-brake-caliper ATE 314x30mm front brake disc 1K0615301AJ https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ate/7005983#brake-disc I've added diagrams of the front brake pads for the 312x25mm front brake discs and the 314x30mm/340x30mm front brake discs. The 314x30mm and 340x30mm front brake discs use the same front brake pads because they use the same front brake calipers. I would estimate that the 314x30mm/340x30mm front brake pads have at least a 15% increase in braking surface area of the brake friction material. Bear in mind the pistons on the front brake calipers for the 312x25mm front brake discs have a diameter of 57mm, whereas the pistons on the front brake calipers for the 314x30mm/340x30mm front brake discs have a piston diameter of 60mm...which results in about a 10% increase in force being applied to the brake pads when the brake pedal is pressed with the same amount of force. So all this adds up to more braking force, bigger pad area, and those bigger more beefy brake discs which take longer to heat up and can dissipate the heat quicker. TRW GDB1956 front brake pads for 312x25mm front brake disc TRW GDB2114 front brake pads for 314x30mm and 340x30mm front brake disc 8V0698151C https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/11288579#brake-pad-set I've added three diagrams of the 312x25mm, 314x30mm, and 340x30mm front brake discs. Notice that the 312x25mm front brake discs have a 8.5mm gap for cooling (the ventilated part), whereas the 314x30mm front brake discs have a 10.5mm gap...so that's well over a 20% bigger gap for cooling (the ventilated part). 312x25mm front brake disc 8.6kg https://www.autodoc.co.uk/brembo/1657592#brake-disc 314x30mm front brake disc 9.4kg https://www.autodoc.co.uk/brembo/8714198#brake-disc 340x30mm front brake disc 10.8kg https://www.autodoc.co.uk/brembo/8714327#brake-disc

Can’t speak for those boots specifically, but I had Bridgestones out of the factory on my Fabia II Combi and they were not great. Didn’t last very long. Lousy grip. Replace with Avon ZV7s, they were OK for noise and grip, but perished inside three years. Now on Goodyear Effecientgrip on the Fabia and they work well. Quiet, excellent grip, do well in the rain. Currently have factory Michelin Primacy 4s on the Superb. Typical for Michelin they are not the quietest, but are hard wearing and good rain performance. When they are done I will go back to all-weather tyres like I had on my Rapid. Had Goodyear Vector 4seasons on that, which were great.

The parameter can be adjusted using VCDS, within a +/- 15% range IIRC.

I have obviously made modifications to the Caddy to enhance its performance, and others to change the aesthetics, but I am struggling to think of one previously that has specifically been made with road safety in mind, although I have an example now. I think it is also the first instance of my reinstating a modification that had been in place when I bought the Caddy and which I had subsequently removed. My son had been driving behind the Caddy and told me afterwards that the brake lights were not as noticeable as they ought to be, in the absence of a high level centre brake light. Given that he knows that the Caddy has no centre brake light and was therefore conscious to keep an eye out, this made me think that less switched-on drivers could miss my braking altogether, with disastrous consequences. I liked the idea of mounting a brake light externally above the rear window, except that would mean drilling holes in the cab back, which I did not fancy much. I thought it would be much easier to find a universal brake light to stick inside the rear window, but actually it took me a while to find one, and I was not happy with the quality of the best one I could find. After deciding I did not want to use it, I spent a few more weeks scouring kit car parts sites and the like to try to find a better part. The problem was that so-called ‘universal’ internal brake lights are designed to fit to the sloping rear windows of cars rather than the practically vertical rear window on a pick-up. Eventually I found another brake light capable of swivelling on its mountings to accommodate mounting on windows of different inclinations, and which appeared online to be higher quality than the first light I bought. When the second one arrived it proved to be just a shorter version of the first, so that was a set-back. At this point I resigned myself to not being able to find a better part to use, and decided to try to adapt the ones I had already bought. There were three features of the brake lights which I was unhappy with: the cable was routed through the rotating mounting, so the mounting could not be moved to the required position without pinching it; the case and swivel mechanism were horribly flimsy; and the open design meant that light could leak out all over the place, which I thought could be distracting when driving. As well as this, the longer light had three LEDs which lit only intermittently, and whichever one I chose would need a 2-pin connector fitted to it. Taking the two lights apart was easily accomplished, which is an obvious advantage of the flimsy construction. The fault with the LEDs was due to the lead on a resistor not having been trimmed after it was soldered, so that it was shorting across the PCB. With the lights disassembled it was straightforward to pull the cable back through the hole in the mounting and feed it through a new hole drilled in the body of the light. After that I made the lights a bit more robust by drilling the ends for bigger flanged screws to replace the tiny countersunk ones they had originally. When I took the picture below I thought I had them finished, but subsequently I took the smaller light apart again and added some black tape along the sides of the light lens, and some similar tape over the ridiculous lettering on the side. Adding the wiring for the brake light was simply a case of taking the passenger interior sill trim off and splicing into the loom between the B-pillar and the grommet it passes through towards the rear. The new wires were run up behind the B-pillar trim panels and then fed between the headlining and the roof using a straightened wire coathanger. By this point I still had not decided which of the brake lights I should use. From an aesthetic perspective I preferred the smaller one, so I tried that one first to judge if it was big enough to be sufficiently visible. For the purpose of this check I attached the light to the rear window with masking tape. My initial impression was that it was fine, but before I committed I left it overnight to see if I felt the same way the following day, which I did, so the light was fixed properly with double-sided sticky pads. I would like to think that my new brake light installation is a tad more tasteful than what it had when I bought it.

The idle pressure reading after a regen seems reasonable but the one at 2.5K rpm seems very high, I cant be sure until I have checked mine again or looked for the sheet of paper where I recorded previous tests but my gut feeling is that it is high for a DPF that has just been regenned.

On the following link the application form used when importing a car from the EU to the UK. can be viewed and the form describes the headlights, speedometer and fog lights requirements. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/61f7cfd1e90e0768a3523234/application-for-gb-conversion-iva-passenger-cars.pdf I was wrong about my Roomster - it has only one rear fog light and this is on the right (UK offside). After purchasing the Roomster in 2009 (to replace a very sickly Golf Estate that disappeared into the Government scrappage scheme) I now recall noticing that the Roomster had just one rear fog light and, as my motorhome had two, deciding to investigate how easy it would be to add a second fog light on the UK nearside. This proved to be impracticable: I can't remember where the difficulty lay, it might have been that the nearside rear light-unit had no bulb-holder in its fog light section, or the fog light section had no internal reflector, or there was no cabling to the fog light section, but whatever the reason (and I'm not going to remove the Roomster's left rear light-unit to check) It was sufficient to dissuade me from going ahead. I tried shining a powerful torch into each of my Fabia Mk 4's rear fog lights to see if I could spot any internal difference between the one on the UK nearside that does not illuminate and the one on the offside that does, but the 'lens' of the lights is too opaque to get any sort of clear picture (and I'm not going to remove the Fabia's lights either).

Actually there's another thought. ACC uses the radar to set the following distance but.. Forward Assist (independent of ACC ) also uses the Radar and doesn't that use terminology such as Early or Late to refer to when/how it warns you? That being the case I wonder if the OP is just slightly confused and he/she has the Forward Assist at "Late" (ie wait until the last minute to warn you) and the ACC Distance at an unknown value (possibly set at max gap) ?

Welcome. You have 7 gears and it is set to try and use least fuel. It will be out of 1st by 10 kmph and in 7th before 100 kmph so it will be changing gear early. How long do you want it to be between changing up? Put it in S if you want it holding gears to a higher rpm.

I had the same on my 2018 2.0tdi 4x4. Changed the DSG oil and filter = small improvement. Did the clutch adaptation with VCDS = huge improvement. Basically the car felt completely different after this. The adaptation is a must at some point more or less, as the disc packs wear over time.

The brake thing is quite common on MEB platform cars. I've had it on my ID.4. Its caused by the partial seizing of the front brake calipers, due to their lack of use in an EV which is the result of most braking being done by regen. It only happens in the last 5 meters or so of braking as regen is doing it's thing until then but the car has to brake quite hard to blend the friction brakes in when coming to rest to overcome the partial seizing. When the brake calipers suddenly move as the brakes 'give' it is felt as 'grabbiness' on the last few meters. The actual solution is a caliper clean / lube to free the brakes and ensure it doesn't' happen again. I had my brakes lubed/cleaned by my trusted mechanic prior to MOT and this will be an annual thing going forward. All decent EV mechanics will suggest a brake service / lube as part of normal servicing. The problem can be mitigated for a while by 'brake clear' procedure. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND WITH DUE CARE FOR OTHER ROAD USERS. Find a good quiet straight bit of road, slightly downhill if possible Get up to 40 mph or so Ensure no traffic behind ENSURE NO TRAFFIC BEHIND Put car in neutral Brake really hard, activating the ABS system (brake pedal will pulse) repeat The ABS activation will rattle the calipers loose and will resolve the grabbiness for a while.

Just be careful you dont overshoot and stick it in Reverse (or even worse Park but I dont think that would happen) but seriously its a question I haven't given any thought about. I would either "carefully" put it in Neutral or just leave it in gear and maintain control otherwise utilising any engine braking to best advantage. Intersting suggestion about using the Edo Coast function. Apparently the minute you touch the brake the car goes back into gear

I've never experienced the upshift but that's probably because I don't thrash it hard enough. As stated by others, It will downshift as & when it decides its necessary.

That would work, or if you have the ECO drive mode option you could utilise the coasting function.

@leolito All I can say is that my struts never leaked any oily substance. As I said in previous post they just gradually deteriorated.

I'm glad to see identification of satire is still alive & kicking ;o)

Thank you. Yeah my mate/neighbour already suggested something similar.... I have 2 of those things but they seem to "wobble" when they are in.... could be cause I've brought them from poundland 😂 I'm sure there is another 12v cigarette lighter charger in the boot 🤔 But thanks again 👊🏻

Far better to use an adaptor IMO, as you will lose the 12v socket if you convert it. So no 12v tyre inflators, no 12v solar power battery trickle chargers, etc., etc. I have one like this. Not the same, but works fine. https://www.amazon.co.uk/AINOPE-Charger-Adapter-Smallest-Cigarette-Black/dp/B0B1JCPXQC

Ops sorry, I have reported it as filed in the wrong thread and asked if it can be moved to the one for England.

Respectfully, IMO it's time to stop faffing around with it yourself. Take your car to a garage you trust and ask them to drain all the oil out, and put the correct oil in to the correct level. Then ask them to see if there is a problem with your oil warning system and go on from there.

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond Ootohere 😊. I bought the door with the LF7W paint code. The car looks a mess at the moment so it’s got to be an improvement 😂 Thank you once again 👍

trolley buses were the solution , ahead of their time

Hence why I thought, one on charge while the other is hauling, next trip they get swapped over and again over and over again because of hill climbing taking its toll on the batteries 😉. I know of a council who purchased electric vans for their maintenance teams to use, only to find out that they could not use them effectively owing to hills consuming the power when loaded.

For completeness https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1993/176/contents

In the UK on land to which the public can be realistically expected to have access You do not need to wear a seat belt if you’re: a driver who is reversing, or supervising a learner driver who is reversing in a vehicle being used for police, fire and rescue services a passenger in a trade vehicle and you’re investigating a fault driving a goods vehicle on deliveries that is travelling no more than 50 metres between stops a licensed taxi driver who is looking for customers either by being hailed in the street or by waiting at a taxi rank (known as ‘plying for hire’) a licensed taxi driver or a driver of a private hire vehicle who is carrying passengers Private hire vehicles include minicabs, chauffeur services or limousines Or if you have a medical exemption or if the vehicle is not fitted with seat belts (ie vintage/veteran) (Disclaimer : italics are something I believe to be a general principle to cover places such as car parks however further research on specific law /legal requirements apply) https://www.gov.uk/seat-belts-law/when-you-dont-need-to-wear-a-seat-belt

Depending on the DSP you get it can make it easy as you can play around and change the phase in the software and get a better response for the speaker position and the cabin of the car. A lot cars with subs sound better if you open the back window a little furthest away from the listener / driver. https://www.caraudiohelp.com/newsletter/cabin_gain.html

I love it too. I am a paraplegic so the ACC and lane assist are ideal for me. Without ACC etc., having one hand on the steering wheel and one on the brake/accelerator, is very tiresome on medium to long journeys. Oh, and don't get me talking about the exorbitant cost of hand controls -$6500 for what you see in the image.

I will have 2 times 40 minutes charging time tomorrow, getting 25 kW of charging free at an Osprey charger as a gift from Eon Next. By the time i stop, get the charger working, maybe take some pictures and post on here or make a phone call or 3 it is time to go. Chargers that play up are a PITA but that is usually just ones were a CPS RFID card or app is used to start them, or BP Pulse ones that i have now stopped even going to. Yet to charge the car to 100% yet but will after midnight at 7 pence a kW, so a cheap 250 miles, 100 miles from my home tariff, then a Free charge after that @ 38 pence a kWh to 100% tomorrow. Then in the following days charges to full at 31 pence & 59 pence a kWh before i will be home to charge again. (not been able to get the cars Delayed charge starting at 12am yet and i have had to start the charging from the phone App remotely, i will see if it works tonight. Tried and tried and tried again just like the spider and Robert the Bruce.)

Nick_H Thank you for the helpful comment. I regret that I am using it “properly” yet I still hate it. I infer that you like it and, if so, I’m pleased for you. Stonekeeper I take it you’re asking me the distance between my car and the vehicle in front at 70mph. Sadly, I can’t tell you that (I’m sitting in my armchair) but I think it would be quite difficult to gauge, wouldn’t it? However, what should the distance be, would you say, at minimum and maximum settings on the ACC? m

Servo vac hose for your car is still available from Skoda, part number 6Q2 612 041 CD, £41.65 + VAT at a Skoda dealer's parts counter. Can you see where it's leaking? Generally from cracks at junctions of hard plastic sections. Repair (shorten and refit) may be possible with help from hot air to soften.

Ah, that makes more sense than what I was assuming. My car is a non DCC, so hopefully I'm good. Thanks!

Being a long distance taxi I actually try and increase my MPG. I've had 80mpg since refuel and 71mpg long term average. 2.0 TDI 6 speed manual. DSRA engine with 00/20 oil. Not a hybrid.

Sorry folks, would be helpful if I posted details on the car. 2021 plate first edition 1.0 TSI Manual, had it for 2 and half years, had all the usual blips but this is the first time this has happened.

Google shows. Give your VIN when ordering, or getting paint mixed.

The below foam and jack kit can be ordered from any VAG parts department by quoting OEM part number 5E0093860E. The online Czech price is about £46.07, but the UK price might be slightly more. The actual spare wheel can be purchased separately. mytyres can supply an Alcar 8667 6.5Jx16 ET46 5/112 57.1 steel rim for £42.20 including shipping from Germany to the UK. mytyres can also supply the rim with a fitted tyre of your choice. Octavia MK3 foam and jack kit for 16" spare wheel (includes everything except for the actual spare wheel) (OEM part number 5E0093860E) (1369CZK is about £46.07) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-pro-vymenu-rezervniho-kola-16/p/5E0093860E Alcar 8667 6.5Jx16 ET46 5/112 57.1 steel rim (for Octavia MK3) (£42.20) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=646714047761384560&rimCode=ALCAR8667

Once again, to coin a phrase that someone else has already used, this once again rings of the "haves" and "I'm alright Jack"

https://youtu.be/va3qLlGc_6I

Have you considered ATE PowerDisc front brake discs, as shown in the photo below? In my view, they look more high tech than the drilled Brembos. However, I haven't seen ATE PowerDiscs for the rear 310x22mm brake discs...whereas I have seen Brembo drilled rear brake discs in that size. Here's a photo of an ATE PowerDisc 345x30mm front brake disc. It has a minimum wear of 27mm, which is about 36% more wear than the below drilled Brembo front brake disc. Here's a photo of Brembo 345x30mm drilled front brake disc. The minimum wear is 27.8mm, so you would get over 36% more wear on the ATE front PowerDiscs before they needed replacing. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/brembo/13801758#brake-disc

So little bit of a side line now... and something I am 99.9% hasnt been done before... Ventilated Sportline Seats So this was an all new project and going in blind! So a bit of theory behind it first: On the superb, all seat frames are near enough the same, then the difference between the leather and sportline seats is the foam insides and the headrest. There are no ventilated parts for the sportline and the ones built into the leather seat foam are far from the right shape, so it meant starting from scratch. Also something to note - the fans suck air through the seat, not blow air onto you. The parts that were needed for this: 4x Fans Wiring Plugs Terminals Diffuser sheet Isolator sheet Fan mounting Now the fans, wiring and terminals are easy to source but the sheets and mountings are actually built into the seat foam and cant be purchased separately. I then found a company that sold me all 4 diffuser and isolator sheets and some mountings that would work. Now we are in business! There are 2 fans per seat, and they are wired exactly the same (almost) and controlled by LIN. Each seat gets a power on pin 1, a LIN on pin 3 and a ground on pin 2. Pins 4-6 are then grounded differently depending on the fans position and this is how the LIN knows what each seat fan is doing and where it is. Thats the wiring out of the way, next the physical mounting of everything: So this is a cross section of how it currently looks: Yellow is the solid seat foam Red is the heated seat element Black is the seat fabric itself. And this is how it ended up looking: Yellow is the seat foam which now has holes going through it completely, indicated by the brown lines Red is the heated seat element which is porous so needed no modification Black is the seat fabric, again it was porous and luckily no modification needed. Blue is the diffuser sheet - which is a semi rigid sheet that is full of holes allowing the air to distribute fully across all the holes, even with a persons weight pushing on them. Green is the isolator sheet - this is what seals the area to allow the only air being sucked it to be from the front of the seat, via the holes in the foam. Brown circle is the fan. And now some photos of it all - the parts and strip down first: A rough marking of the fan location and the foam being cut The seat base to show the 2 circle holes where the fan could possibly mount The fan, mounting, diffuser sheet and isolator sheet Decided on mounting the fan is the forward seat base hole A torch behind the fabric to show the holes are require permiable, so air wont have an issue. Next is the actual building of it all: Seat back wired up and fully ready to refit, fan installed Seat base foam cut, very roughly before sanding it flat to give a better finish Diffuser mat laid in the cut out All the holes, and the foam pieces ready to fit back on top at the end to maintain its shape Diffuser mat glued in place and trimmed to fit perfectly. A sportline seat base - the head rest is what gives it its shape, very odd design Back of the sportline foam before i began cutting The cut out for the diffuser foam. The holes - drilling these is pointless - i heated up a piece of rebar and melted the holes through - a drill just pushes the foam out the way. Diffuser, isolator and fan mount fitted. And some photos of the controls now fully working! And all of that, took 2 whole days for a single seat! Next is the drivers seat! It did get me thinking though.... the 4B module often refered to as the headlight control module, is actually a multi function control module and it has a lot of other odd options too - almost like extra pins for the BCM. But anyway, it has functions on there for rear seat ventilation too... just a thought. But that would mean a completely custom rear temperature control panel, intercept and inject LIN and canbus signals through my own controller... but yeah, just a thought.

None of the wiring will be there for this but it is for sure possible to fit it after the purchase of a car I believe being in north London is a tad too far for you to bring the car though 😛