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So i'm sure each and every Superb MK3 and any other MQB platform car including Golf's, Passats and such have came across the following fault 1 Fault Found: 263425 - Air Quality Sensor B10AF 04 [009] - Internal System Fault Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear And the only solution is to replace the Air quality sensor, located in the plenum chamber. The part numbers for the superb went in the following order 5Q0907643B was the original up to 2016. Since then the part number has been revised with the letter at the end changing, going to C,D,F and then finally as of 2023, the newest part number is 5Q0907643E. The part has its own self diagnosis and is non servicable so its simply a case of removing, replacing and clearing the fault codes, but no one actually knows what the common issue is. Now onto the part itself - 5Q0907643D dated 05-06-2017: The air quality sensor also called AQS is fitted in the cabin air intake and detects pollution in the incoming air including emissions and pollen - It then feeds this back to the climatronic control module via the LINbus and in turn this automatically switches the air to recirculation. That is as simple as the process can be. The outside of the part consists of a completely sealed plastic casing, 3 pins (12V, ground, LINbus) and an air intake with a white membrane over it. The part needed to be cut open to access the internal circuit board which was done with a very small hacksaw. Inside we had a small double sided circuit board as pictured below The components on this circuit board are as follows - as well as what I could possibly test, has been tested. Various resistors - couldnt find a single one burnt out, okay Various capacitors - couldnt find a single one burnt out, okay 16F1938 micro controller - Unable to test but this is the main control unit for this component and if it was faulty, there is a good chance we wouldnt get the above fault code - instead no comms A voltage regulator - same diagnosis as above LINbus controller - same diagnosis as above, would not have any comms if faulty And then the 2 very odd things on the ends of the 'fingers' almost..... see below So on closer inspection you have these 2 very small black boxes, each with 4 connections I have no idea what these components are, but they seem to be some kind of optical sensor, but on an extremely tiny scale. I assume these are what pick up the particulates and tell the control unit there is a high pollution level - but this is just speculation. Now I done my best to get an up close picture of the sensors and their connections, but on my phone camera this was almost impossible, but this is the best I can do. Youll notice each of these components is isolated from the ground plane (light green part of the circuit board) and on each of the black boxes there are 4 very small gold dots on top. I have nothing to measure these with but a guess would be 0.1mm each. These are the connection points from the component to the circuit board. You will also notice that to connect the circuit board to the component is an absolutely TINY gold wire (can be seen on closest component bottom right connection). These are so much smaller than a human hair even, impossible to measure with any tools I have. Most of these tiny gold wires are snapped off at one or both ends! So for the top component - the top 2 wires are completely missing, the bottom 2 are still connected. The bottom component - the top 2 wires, one is detatched from the circuit board, the other is missing. The bottom left is not touching the circuit board, the right is connected only to the circuit board. So basically, these wires that are maybe a 10th of a human hair. Of the 8 connections, 2 are doing their job. And here lies the issue! These components and their connections are so fragile, being in an engine bay is enough to completely destroy them. Would be very interesting to see a newer revision and what has changed internally.

Yay!

Looks like maybe solenoid valve 3 is defective. The only fix would be to get the Mechatronic refurbed which will set you back about £700 ish, or a couple of £ 000 for a new Mech unit which will need coding to your car. TBH, as you've only just bought the car I'd be tempted to return it for a refund, obviously not fit for purpose.

That is just the tip of the tax iceberg. Almost everything you do with your money is taxed. It's a bit like a mafia boss getting his "tribute" out of his subordinates, but without the token gratitude the mafia boss would show towards a good earner for him. Income Tax, Capital Gains Tax, National Insurance Contributions, Inheritance Tax, VAT, Insurance Premium Tax, Excise Duties, Stamp Duty & Property/Land Taxes, Income Tax for Sole Traders, Taxes on Dividends & Savings, Capital Gains Tax on Business Sale, Council Tax, Tax on Vehicles, Alcohol Tax, Sugar Tax.

Spotted a lovely looking 18 year old S-type earlier - this one runs on the wrong fuel, but it'll still be about 100 times nicer to drive and ride in than most modern cars. Still miss my old S-type!

Hello fellow 190 TSI owner! 😊 Have you removed the silica bag from the coolant reservoir? If not, have you checked it hasn't split, and leaked silica particles through your cooling system? Can you clarify this sentence please: "Hot air is coming through the air vents even when it's all switched off"? Slightly randomly, what's the "Green Car" readout on the main display saying when the car is playing up? Does it know you're getting terrible MPG? When you say the gear changes feel horrible, can you elaborate on "horrible" please? I'd be inclined to take it to a specialist VAG independent rather than a Skoda dealer, as I fear their solution might be a parts replacement lottery, played at your expense until until the problem goes away. I'm not sure if the brake problem is coincidental or related, but I'd be tempted to get the brakes stripped and cleaned, rather than just have the disks and pads replaced, especially with that front offside wheel getting unusually warm.

Just under £300 realise I could have saved by fitting myself but the chances of me fitting it & it actually working are virtually nil! Hopefully this will be useful info to others I suspect this may be a common issue as temperatures start to drop.

Gentlemen, hang onto your breakfast, I give you the new Mini Countryman Hideous yet also completely bland and characterless

Hi All! Finally resolved by main dealer it was the the relay however it is a combined relay/fuse box unit on this model so I paid them to carry out the work & since picking it up no errors so far! From what I could glean it sounds like this type of relay struggles when the temperatures dip. Insisted on a full battery check & they were adamant it is spot on & does not require replacement. The start/stop does seem more proactive since collection. As a general point since owning this car I have found independent/local garages either politely unwillingly/unable to work on the car (or mis-diagnose it as original post above) yet I walk into a Skoda dealership & they have a pretty damn good idea what the route cause of each issue is just from the symptoms. Clearly going to have to continue to use main dealer potentially for the duration of ownership - VAG really do like to squeeze every last £ out when you own one of their vehicles!

Check for binding brakes or failing bearing on front right wheel.

Greetings dear Skodians. A report on my 2010 1.8 TSI Scout. After 14 years and 200k km, (1 year on Shark Stage1, than the next 12y on Revo Stage2) time has come to clean its engine, as it started eating oil pretty badly. I will admit I have neglected the Scout all his life (in a sense of not caring for it, maintenance or abuse wise), been abused on bad off-roads, used to open up neighborhood roads from snow, carried tons of building materials for 2 homes i built, driven it twice to UK and back, each time 7700km round trip etc etc. The famous tensioner has been replaced by a recall from the dealer few years back (2019 i think). Surprisingly the only thing to ever fail c.7y ago, was the water pump that cracked, nothing else has gone wrong and it has never let me me down on the side of the road, only spending on it have been oil and filters when i remembered once a year maybe. Engine opened, obviously the crappy piston rings were totally clogged, inside totally coked like it has been running on coal, a cracked con rod, a failing loose turbo that not sure how it has not disintegrated totally and get sucked into the engine and cause major damage. New parts: - Piston rings and bearing inserts - Fuel/oil/water pump - Chain, tensioners and the whole kit, - Kept the turbo housing, but changed everything inside from some newer IHI model - New 312mm front disks/pads. - Changed all fluids, incl. Haldex, Gearbox etc, Detailed cleaning inside, 1st time in its life. Driving it for a week now, gently first 1k km, then a re-check, all is buttery smooth, back to stock map for now, so taking it easy, turbo spooling to 0.8-0.9 bar is fast, but not abusing it. Included some pics, cheers!

The story... Brake booster, freshly rebuilt by Jay Stratton in California, and back to Taranaki in Aotearoa, via Oregon! Brakes back together and working. I sussed out my intermittent brake light issue. It seems the tail light insert eventually warps a bit over time and the metal tracks lift slightly from where they’re fixed with melted plastic tabs. There are brass leaves under the tracks which connect to the bulbs. The leaves rely on the tabs holding the metal in place to make contact. I added a screw to fix it. Then clicked why there’s already a screw, someone already fixed the same issue with the indicator. Next day was the WoF Failed, with a shorter list than last time. One indicator bulb had died, the belt to the hydraulic pump was cracking, and one headlight alignment isn’t right. The same headlight I spent ages sorting out for the last WoF! Replaced the belt, need a new alternator belt too but they’re not available locally. The top bolt on the alternator needed all of the swears to get undone. Next day - WoF round 2. Everything was sorted but the WoF mechanic had gone home. Finally day 3. Got to the WoF place expecting just a quick check and sign-off and she said "The left tail light is too dim". FFS The solution was to go to Supercheap and buy some Narva LED tail light globes, which don't seem to care that one tail light cluster is only getting 10 volts. $132 for 4 tail/stop lights and 2 indicators (because why not make them all brighter?) Finally the WoF was signed off. WoF passed, just in time for the road trip event that weekend. I was really excited for that, but unfortunately non car-related issues prevented me from going.

That’s the point though. It’s all very well the nerds and early adopters saying “yadda yadda yadda” but average joe transitioning………

Glorious this afternoon and still pretty warm (16 degrees)😎 Not too muddy either 🚲🙂 I spotted what appeared to be a chap getting knocked off his bike in the rear view mirror earlier - I doubled back to make sure he was okay and it turned out he was just unable to get his feet out of the clipped-in pedals quick enough - happily no harm done 👍

When it is 60 pence a kWh then 10 kWh is £6.00 & if you get 4 miles a kWh then 40 miles. 3.5 miles a kWh then 35 miles. Slow down and get 4.5 miles a kWh and you are at 45 miles. But then if it is 79 pence a kWh and you are going to need 20 kWh,s you are £15.80 for 90 miles or maybe 80 miles or like me 70 miles. Crazy costs.

I agree with Dave but that's the reason to clear them and see which comes back. I wouldn't worry too much about any of them for now unless you are having other problems like not being able to select hot/cold reliably.

A lot will be due to wheel size and tyres. However with an EV there is no background engine noise so your perception of other sounds will be higher (even if not actually louder) The EVs tend to get big wheels, with wide summer tyres, that are Eco / low rolling resistance (firm in simple speak), and like many modern summer tyres tend to be optimised close to WLTP test temperatures (which is about 8 or 9c higher than UK average temperature). Putting it bluntly in plain speak, those tyres tend to be hard (and therefore rumbly) at UK temperatures from October to April. Would have been softer if it was warm day nearer 25c but you probably tested it near 10-14c Try one with smallest wheel size, and if it is a coldish day, assume changing to good all season tyres will be quitter still (as they are softer at low temperatures). In meantime here is link to Skoda wheels catalogue which shows all the wheel options for Enyaq https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/6d5c59b3-5d97-451a-ab78-2ef185e6e373

They're all shown as intermittent which means the faults weren't present when the scan was done but were historical.

Thanks I have tried that, not sure if it’s re calibrated anything. I think I will clear the fault codes and see what faults if any come back.

So a further update, the alarm has been going off intermittently without any cause. Checking the data on the car shows 'lost comms with module' but doesnt tell me which module. Thats great! Thought id test the battery and it had a capacity of 350Ah of 680Ah. This is after driving the car for 2 hours each day all week. Its a shame but seems like after 8 years the original battery is finally due for replacement. On top of that, when you have the parking heater system the vehicle is meant to have an AGM, not EFB battery. So the largest possible battery to fit is a 096 size, AGM type battery. I use Yuasa batteries for work all the time so a YBX9096 is the optimal battery and next was finding somewhere with one. Halfords sell the battery for £237.19 which is wildly overpriced. But they do offer price match to high street and online retailers. So after some hunting I found it for £128.50 online and went into Halfords, After no fuss at all, walked out with my battery and very proud of my receipt. Battery fitted to vehicle, and coded correctly to the new fleece type with higher capacity. Now to monitor the alarm faults.

Chargers can be really awkward. Shell recharge rubbish. Some chargers plug in tap card push buttons or not and go. Where many go wrong is as I did. You need to realise there are slow ones. You need to let them set. Communicate. Light up a screen. Lots have buttons with no indication what they are till the screen comes alive. You are canceling before you even get a start. I often have to reset a charger. Press the emergency stop. Follow the instructions and wait. Sadly some have no instructions so you need to know the procedure. Help lines can be hopeless if they answer. Often it can be quite a while before you get a reply and then it was a waste of time. Being familiar with what you use can be the only way. There are providers that are just dead easy to use. Sadly unless it is Tesla they are the more expensive. Shell and BP are just pathetic . Customer services are just hopeless. PS. If we are talking Porsche Taycan driver and 20,000 miles a year or so business use with the camera gear and also private use, then you really should know which work how and prices etc. After all your putting in tax returns as a business user with your car on the never never until paid off or traded in.

So you would say Furious Drivings experience is pretty much a real world experience rather than being played for effect ?

There are quite a few BYD,s now with people leasing from Motability. I have helped 2 drivers. Sadly they were not explained to when getting the cars that they are looking for CCS on the chargers for DC charging. AC is Slow Charging, often referred to as 'Fast'. They were not explained to that in Scotland that Charge Place Scotland chargers are almost exclusively Rapid chargers, so 50 kW max which is far from Rapid. I pointed out to them to get 100 or 100 + rapid charging they would be paying likely at BP, MFG, Shell Recharge, Ionity, Osprey or maybe Tesla charging Non Tesla. Those taking the cars orders and doing hand overs really can be hopeless, and when the customer is getting a car for a disabled driver or passenger it is quite pathetic. As i have been telling Motability. I know from Salespeople that are dealing with EV,s that many of them just charge at work or home and have little experience of public chargers other than ones maybe at their Dealerships which really are not for the Public in lots of cases.

Just checked rear door,there was a substantial amount of water in it,could hear it sloshing about when I opened door,drained it off,thanks

Hello, welcome to the forum. There is another cause for 'sloshing' sounds when braking - check the lower door seals, especially on the rear doors. The drain holes in the lower seal can block, resulting in a surprising amount of water being trapped in the doors. Gently run fingers along and between the seal lips and see if this is the case.

At 108,000 miles our Fabia 1.9 diesel started crunching when changing from 1st to 2nd and I assumed the worst.... New synchro at the very least. We've had it for 15 years, it's had 2 learners try to kill it and one even tried to engage 1st gear at 40mph so I assumed it was toast! Not so. I was told by a local garage that these gearboxes hardly ever fail so they changed the oil for modern synthetic and bingo. It's as if it has a replacement gearbox now! Might be worth trying if anyone out there has this problem.....

Tried it and it worked several times, so for now simply pushing the key in slightly while turning the engine off will do the trick. Thank you for your inputs.

in the old thread i linked, theres mention of the sill being lower on the combi.

Aircare is a software thing, nothing to do with sensors. Its something to do with blowing the air high and sucking it back in through recirc basically. Air quality sensors are fitted on any car with climatronics (2 or 3 zone)

Or of course they might have had a car before, an ICE and have been lulled into a false sense of security by their simplicity, simply pull up at a pump and select petrol or diesel, compared with different chargers and speeds?

Beware the code in lambda sensor, double check. Trust the original. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503246-confusion-with-bosch-lambda-sensors/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503246-confusion-with-bosch-lambda-sensors/?do=findComment&comment=5651422

I've been offered these sort's of 'add-ons' on new and ex demo cars many times over the years; Exterior Protection, Interior Upholstery Protection, Alloy Wheel Insurance, Gap insurance. This is where the dealers make their money on a car sale because there is intense competition through online websites for the actual vehicle price. If you are buying through PCP and intend handing the car back at the end of the contract and getting another new car on PCP the dealers like taking back vehicles with these 'insurances' on them because they can get the car prepped for resale on their forecourt by claiming on these insurances at zero cost to them, in fact they actually make money because they 'invoice the insurer for the work they needed to do. When trading in a car against a new one I've been told if I'd had these insurances they trade in would have been higher, but not by the amount I'd have had to fork out for the insurances though. Prior to my Karoq I had a pre-reg VW Touran which had 27 miles on the odometer, instead of paying £400 for exterior protection and £300 for interior protection, I spent £100 on Autoglym products, clay bar, resin polish and HD Wax, Upholstery Cleaner and Vinyl Cleaner/Polish. If you have the time,, one weekend in spring and one weekend in Autumn was all it needed and the products lasted 6 years, before |\I needed to buy more. Find a good detailer and save yourself some time and money!

Sorry - wrong thread.

The EV life is nice. Cheap running and no gears (even DSG) is a nice feel. The PHEV is not all it's cracked up to be as far as a stop gap. It's a tool for a job and if you are in a position to go EV it's a better solution. With PHEV you still have all the maintenance of a regular car with the added complexity of the EV bits. One plus side is components cost the same as the regular models (just picked up front discs and pads for £120). If your normal running costs can make good use of the EV mode on PHEV then you will also benefit from running a pure EV. You'll also have to charge less often. Plugging in every day wears thin. I often beat myself up for getting rid of the octavia tdi for the passat gte. For the money I out into the purchase I could have got a half decent small EV for daily duties and kept the skoda for tip/weekend/family/bike trips.

This is a money-maker for the dealership. Avoid. If you'd like some additional protection, spend the money at an independent local 'detailer' (absurd U.S. name but that's what they all call themselves) who will use better-quality products and have the training and skill to apply them well. Those are almost always lacking at larger corporate dealerships. I am not alone in my view: https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/threads/gard-x-ceramic-dealer-quote.433773 That site should list some independents local to you.

I can charge from home, have solar panels, and most of my journeys are quite short. So it would be ideally suited, however running costs wouldn't be the key motivator here, more the effortlessness of an EV drivetrain.

@Steviedakota Will you be able to charge the car at home or work on cheap electric, and will you be doing the length of trips requiring public charging?

@Aspman I could have kept this courtesy car for a couple of days and i intended too until i was taking it home and my back was killing me within 20 minutes. The Plastic seats were terrible & the ride and the controls. It went back the next morning rather than drive it any more. A 1.5 petrol hybrid.

You could clean it with a special spray for this task. It's an extremely crucial part and an after-market isn't the best choice.

Sorry, got it confused with other VW engines, which have lambda closer to the engine Either way, you'll need a correct exhaust. Or get someone with a welder to weld a nut for the probe. As to what happened - maybe someone tried to fit a Polo exhaust pipe from an engine that doesn't have lambda probe in there. I found a few aftermarket different variations for Felicia, but all had the hole in front of the cat. Do you have any pics of the exhaust manifold and exhaust? Maybe there are more changes than that, since you also mentioned missing heat shield.

@Graham Butcher The Corsa electric was in Aberdeen, it was on fire. It was a car fire in Inverurie which is Aberdeenshire that people went on about Electric cars that was a fag but setting the v=back seat on fire and a fuel can was on the back seat. The Fire & Emergency services are managing to extinguish these EV fires. Must be down to their training and equipment, and maybe not all cars batteries being in Thermal Runaway. By now any Car Recovery Companies & Recovery Yards must have the Trained Staff to deal with Electrified Vehicles or just have to refuse to. You might expect that the Police & Fire & Emergency Services know who these Companies are in their area and who can do what.

That brought back some funny memories. When I was 19 I used to get a lift home from work from someone with an old Metro. Their fuel gauge never worked so they used to listen for fuel sloshing when they pulled up at traffic lights. If it didn't slosh they needed to get petrol . 👍

Got my Scala brand new in June 2023. The wheels were covered in brake dust in no time to the point that a colleague thought the alloy wheels were a gun metal colour as standard. When cleaning the wheels with a sponge I got some dust on my hands, the dust took forever to clean off to the point that I bought one of the brushes off Amazon to clean the wheels with.

Last piece went on the roof today.

My 2016 Citigo took a whack on the rear right wheel (don't ask) and although the damage wasn't extensive the car did develop a low frequency rumble. The standard modes of diagnosis didn't really show up a wheel bearing failure. I lifted the wheel off the ground and spun it but it felt smooth. Not the kind of roughness you'd expect from a failed bearing, and no side-to-side or front to back play. The one thing I did notice was that the frequency changed with speed (good sign of a failed bearing) and that it was louder when turning one direction and quieter when turning the other direction which was a good indicator of the bearing being worse under more load and, obviously, quieter under less load. The fix is relatively simple. The bearing comes as a complete hub unit which is held on to the axle by a single central nut. The OEM bearing I took off my car is manufactured by FAG which was coincidentally pleasing because I'd chosen an FAG aftermarket part from Autodoc to put on. This is the kit I used. To fix it, you just raise the car, take the wheel off, and then remove the brake drum (handbrake off!). The bearing unit has a cover plate that you need to tap off with a flat head screwdriver and hammer. Thereafter, there's just one 12 point nut that can be removed with the right sized socket and a long breaker bar. The kit also came with a new nut and cover plate. The whole bearing hub unit will just slide off by hand. No puller required. Fitting is just the reversal of that. The nut torque is 70Nm + 30 degrees. I only got to about 25 degrees before the nut totally bottomed out, so it was fairly tight by then. The new cover plate was a bit awkward at first, but a few taps with a nylon hammer soon got it into position. Hopefully this helps with diagnosis and repair of a failed (or failing) rear bearing on a Citigo.

Dent removed! Jason from Autodentz was really friendly and professional, he made it clear that its hard to remove the dent completely without taking out crash structures in the door which is significant work. The only ever so slightly noticeable bit is the factory crease is a little less pronounced in one area but its a huge improvement. Before After

Bit of tinkering today. Added to the job list. Sorted the rusty battery tray, fixed the light issues, found out that my aerial works, but I have no idea how to make it go back in. Started removing the door handles but with the battery removed I can’t put the windows up to get to the inside. So I spent some time trying to work out exactly where brake fluid is leaking from. Still working on that!

I've borrowed a shed space to get on with the job list over Winter. Talk about shed envy!

I had this problem. It is indeed the drain pipes from the panoramic roof - here's a pdf showing how I fixed it and where the tubes come out behind the bumper. karoq drain.pdf