Leaderboard

Just a pointer outer that Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are cobalt free. Renault have been slowish to adopt LFP batteries but in 2025 the R5 and R4 will have LFP options that might take about half the sales. TELSA and BYD are already massive LFP battery users. LFP batteries are much safer upon piercing that pure lithium but have a lower energy density, not massively, something like 20% but they can be charger to 100% no bother whereas Lithium pure are advised to only be charged to about 80% on a regular basis. The future appears more LFP, and maybe sodium and other base materials rather than what we call NMC, Nickel Molybdenum Colbalt ie Lithium batteries which are still popular to use due to energy density but LFP and other are expected to become the major EV battery over the next year or so.

A couple of the shots I got last weekend at the National Tramway Museum in Crich, Derbyshire during an evening running event. I was walking past Sheffield car 510 (The last Sheffield Tram used in 1960) and saw the conductor sat having a break. I knew I had to get the shots and had a gritty dark 1950/60s style in my head..... I think they've both come out well and how I wanted.

Do not pay until viewed / inspected and you are happy with the deal. Why should they be paid while they have the car?

Glorious autumnal colours at Clumber earlier🍂

You might consider mentioning some more details about your Superb....

Thanks for your thoughts on the price. I agree. I've had a look at a few Skoda UK parts websites but they're not listing basic bolts. I could give them a ring of course. No, I'm actually replacing all the security bolts with standard bolts. We've done this on all of our cars over the years after encountering some very annoying issues, such as changing the spare on a dark, cold winter road side and finding the anti-thief socket/bolt isn't playing fair. A few winters ago, on a cold evening outside the drive, I also managed to switch most of my summer alloys over to the winter wheels and tyres, but found that the security bolts on the last wheel just wouldn't budge. So, all in reverse and the summers back on again - urgh. Rush drive down to the nearest local garage for assistance, and they couldn't shift it either. Eventually. a few days later the local Skoda dealership drilled out the last intransigent security wheel nut and I had to buy a whole new set of security bolts (to pass on when I eventually sold the car). Alloys tend to not be stolen so much these days (am I tempting fate!), so they're more trouble than they are worth, just in my opinion of course.

Not gravity unless you are driving up or down a vertical plane. I agree that the orientation of the shift controls on the DSG are counter-intuitive.

Excellent job not blocking the other post.

I am getting a charge at 45 kW which is fine. 4 degrees C just now. Started 55 miles ago with 106 miles range showing and 1 degree. No AC on heating at 17 degrees C. So 55 miles and used 66% battery, average speed 60 mph. The 44% battery left was showing 40 miles range when I plugged in. Not great really but I could have slowed a bit but I was going with the traffic in the outside lane, cars and vans, 70 mph average cameras. A few hundred yards of 50 mph at Laurencekirk. 2 more charges needed before home tonight. A cheap one further north and a PodPoint on my way south Awkward to get charging at this Tesla Aberdeen and lucky to get this charger.

Myself and the Mrs went down to Crich last Saturday for their evening running event. I've been going there for over 40 years since going with school in the juniors and have never yet managed to go on a day when Sheffield Roberts' car 510 has been in service until Saturday. I finally managed to see her out in use and ride on her for the first time. As a bonus we both also got to ride on the very recently restored LCC No.1 car "Bluebird" and had the strange experience of riding on something nearly 100 years old that smelt like it was brand new.

And a final two i grabbed when the conductor on Sheffield 510 was having his break.... Had a dark 50/60s look in my mind when i took the shots and glad with how they have come out.

And a few others from the evening.......

You don't lose any settings on Citigo, AFAICT....

So we are all due an update I believe, So first of all ive been flat out with my new job to the point ive hardly had any time to do any car work! But ill update the small amount that has been done! Calibrate areaview - this still is yet to be done, got to find time on a sunday before it gets dark to find an empty well lit car park to get this sorted hopefully! Check the coolant leak repair - So, since the coolant pipe clips have been replaced with the constant tension type, opposed to the single ear type, i have done around 500 miles without a coolant top up! This is now called a success! I mentioned an alarm fault before replacing the battery - since replacing the battery the alarm is yet to go off, so thats a very good sign! Ambient lighting fault - Earlier I complained of an ambient light fault, this is still yet to be investigated although there are no visible symptoms. So basically, we are all on track, but I will have to scan for fault codes next weekend to see if the alarm or ambient light faults have returned! Fingers crossed no. Next up, we finally got round to fitting the canton grills in the front doors, So I first took a cut out of the fabric from the old doors and laid it on top of the sportline doorcards. This was then all marked out with a marker pen. After this we drilled out the holes, these were all odd sizes, from 6mm up to 11mm. Then the centre hole was cut out, this was done by drilling lots of 1mm holes and then using a blade to join them all together. The fabric then overhung the holes a fair bit, so the solution to this was to heat up a step drill bit till it was red hot, put it in some grips and poke it into each hole to slightly melt the fabric and allow it to retract from the hole. Next the grill itself was fitted, and as much as I wanted the backside to look pretty and as OE as possible, it was near impossible to apply pressure to the grill, keep it aligned, keep it pressed in, and keep it face down for the glue to flow into the holes, so the glue spreading on the back was my lowest concern. The 2 part epoxy was allowed to dry for 48 hours to be sure it wouldnt crack or come loose. The speaker itself was then refitted - 3V0035411E (its the same as the speaker in the centre of the dashboard) A tip to note, ETKA shows the required screws for this as N10549603 which are 4mm wide, 16mm long with a Torx 20 head. This is close, but not close enough! The actual screws are 4mm wide, 8mm long with a Torx 20 head and couldnt find a part number for these so ended up buying some from my local hardware shop. So speakers, grill and doorcard refitted, now the final product:

Good evening all I have a 2015 Skoda Yeti 2.0 In the last week or so my dash clock has remained but my radio clock has just gone to 0:00 and stays at that ...does anyone know how to reset this to be re-synced with the dashboard clock ... I've tried pressing and holding the on/off button ...I've also factory reset on the radio settings ...but nothing is helping Thanks in advance

For those who prefer to see the list of VCDS owners in a map format then take a look at this link. If you need VCP then there is also a map of owners here (PM me if you want to be added to the VCP map with your contact details) The current release of VCDS can be found HERE (Not for use with 3rd party interfaces!) If you have genuine Ross-Tech VCDS (VAG-COM) or genuine Vag Tech VCP (Vag Can Pro) and are willing to assist other members, then please post the required information using the ‘Add Reply’ button and we will then amend this list to include you. When this has been done your post will be deleted to keep this thread tidy. Please remember to include which type of cable you have. Cars built from 2015 are now starting to use some controllers that the HEX-CAN / Micro-CAN interfaces cannot read, for these you will need the latest HEX-V2 or HEX-NET interface. Details of members who have not visited Briskoda within the past 2 years and those whose names no longer exist in the list of members will be deleted to help keep the list current. If you change your username or move areas then please inform us via this thread so we can update the list – please include your old username and location to make it easier for us to update the list. (If you have disappeared off the list, have you changed your username??) When your post disappears from this thread, you are on the list and map. THIS LIST AND THE MAP IS PURELY FOR VCDS + VCP if you have a handheld type of scanner and you wish to offer your services then you are asked to add a line or two in your signature. Please be patient as I can’t always update the list and map midweek. _______________________________________________________________________ Vehicles require the following systems: Citigo (NF) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN / Micro-CAN Felicia (6U) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN Pick Up (67) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN Fabia I (6Y) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN Fabia II (5J) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN Rapid (NH) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN Octavia I (1U) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN Octavia II (1Z) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN / Micro-CAN Octavia III (5E) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN* / Micro-CAN* Roomster (5J) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN Yeti (5L) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN / Micro-CAN Kodiaq = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN* / Micro-CAN* Karoq = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN* / Micro-CAN* Superb I (3U) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN Superb II (3T) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN / Micro-CAN Superb III (3V) = HEX-NET / HEX-V2 / HEX+CAN* / Micro-CAN* * = vehicles from 2015 may use controllers that the HEX+CAN & Micro-CAN can no longer read, for these you will need the HEX-V2 or HEX-NET interfaces. If you want to contact a member for help with VCDS please either hover over their username on their profile or a post they have made, a window will appear with “Send message” either click on this or click on their username and the hyper-link will take you to their profile, from there you can send them a PM. You can also tag them in your post by typing their name after an '@' for example type: @Gizmo and you will get a list of members who's username starts with Gizmo: click on the person you want to tag, providing they have notifications set up they will get an email with a link to the post. Before you send a message look at the ‘Last Active’ date, if the member has not visited Briskoda for several months then it will be unlikely that they will reply to your PM, in this instance try another local member. It is also worth satisfying yourself that the VCDS owner has sufficient knowledge and experience before they make any changes to your car and what costs are involved, some will do it for free, others will ask for ‘a drink’ and there are a few that offer this as part of their job so will have a set fee. The area members have been grouped into are NOT exact, but simply to help others locate you. _______________________________________________________________________ Location = Briskoda Username = Cable Type Scotland Aberdeenshire = w.t100 = VCDS N. Aberdeen = Scottk = HEX+CAN E. Ayrshire = Jaspire = HEX+CAN Dumfries = Jeeves = HEX+CAN Dundee = Golfman = HEX+CAN Edinburgh (Penicuik) = stargixxer = HEX+CAN Edinburgh = Trev. = HEX+CAN Fife = Tomo1971 = Micro-CAN Forth = ScoobySnacks79 = HEX+CAN Glasgow (Neilston) = Muzza80 = HEX+CAN Johnstone Renfrewshire = wilson323f = HEX+CAN Kilmarnock = ricgibbs = HEX+CAN Livingston = Domhnall = HEX+CAN Livingston = Moggytech = HEX+CAN East Lothian (Pencaitland) = scumspawn = HEX+CAN Morayshire - fabdavrav = HEX-V2 Portobello = tkerby = HEX-V2 Strontian = KBPhoto = HEX+CAN Scottish Borders = varaderoguy = HEX-V2 North East Bridlington = East_Yorkshire_Retrofits (Sponsor) = HEX-NET, VCP, VAS6154A ODIS Scarborough = weehappypixie = HEX+CAN Stockton on Tees / Darlington = Da21982 = HEX-V2 Wallsend = planehazza = HEX+CAN North West Chester = PeteHuws = HEX+CAN Cumbria = marksimps = HEX+CAN Liverpool = tunedude = HEX-V2 Manchester (North) = Andy Hames = HEX+CAN Manchester = lupoluke = HEX-V2 Moston = TerryVRS = HEX+CAN Newton-le-Willows = gazzcross = HEX+CAN Ormskirk = ashfan = HEX+CAN Oldham = LGM = HEX+CAN Penrith = inspectorman = HEX+CAN Poynton = Greg R = Micro-CAN Preston = Stu vRS = Micro-CAN Salford - singh946 - HEX+CAN Westhoughton = Sam84 = ?? West Cumbria = simonsheil = HEX+CAN Yorkshire / N.Lincolnshire Boroughbridge = Wibb = ?? Bradford = garethw = Third Party HEX Bradford = Shizz94 = HEX-V2 Dewsbury = thedealsealer = HEX+CAN Holmfirth = Anddenton = HEX+CAN Huddersfield = andrew_lumb = HEX+CAN Pontefract = SuperbTWM = HEX+CAN Sheffield = Andymod = HEX-V2 Sheffield = Nick P = Micro-CAN Sheffield = WayTooTall = HEX+CAN Wetherby, West Yorks = dbg400 =HEX+CAN York = skoman = HEX-V2 Central Bedford = ibuprofenn = Micro-CAN Birmingham (South) = mluton = ?? Birmingham = *murph* = HEX+CAN Cambridge = fsa = Micro-CAN Cheshire = Jaymd = HEX+CAN Corby = Phillips = HEX+CAN Cottenham = langers2k = HEX-V2 Coventry/Hinckley/Nuneaton= Jonny5ive = HEX+CAN Evesham = wg100 = HEX-V2 Hemel Hempstead = claudiu2s = HEX+CAN Kidderminster = MPM = HEX+CAN Milton Keynes = nige8021 = HEX-V2 Newark = pete275 = HEX+CAN Nottingham = Besters = HEX+CAN Nottingham/Derby = trundlenut =HEX+CAN Oxfordshire = skaterboy = ?? Peterborough = skodaguy = ?? Redditch = bradh = HEX+CAN Royston (Cambs) = NicholasD = HEX+CAN Stafford ST17 = rover220 = HEX+CAN Stoke on Trent = Adhal = Micro-CAN Stourbridge = xpower = HEX+CAN Stroud = superbdreams = ?? Wallingford = MarcH = Micro-CAN & VCP Walsall= cjb = HEX+CAN Warwick = micloi = HEX+CAN Wellingborough = j0hn = HEX+CAN Wolverhampton = jrw = HEX+CAN Worcester = Tech1e = HEX+CAN East Beverley = roblatus = ?? Colchester = Nuriyan = HEX+CAN Cranwell = LS8Pilot = Micro-CAN Great Yarmouth (Norfolk) = Eddie-NL = HEX+CAN & VCP Grimsby (Waltham) = goshow = HEX+CAN Hull = captainchaos = HEX+CAN Lincoln = fluffy01016 = ?? Lowestoft = alesypalsy = HEX+CAN Metheringham = ACSC = ?? Newmarket = BigD30 = Micro-CAN Norfolk = jimbof = HEX+CAN Norwich = Black_Thunder = HEX+CAN Nottingham = Spaced99 = HEX+CAN Wales Bangor = TheHungriestBadger = HEX-V2 Barry = welsh_kai_boy = Micro-CAN Bridgend = karlbar2k = Third Party HEX Bridgend = vrs blackline = HEX+CAN Cardiff (North) = David 8 = HEX+CAN Cardiff = Lightrofit = HEX-NET, VCP & VAS6154 ODIS with GeKo Newport/Cardiff = adamal = HEX+CAN Newport / Chepstow = Danny57 = ?? Newport = schrickvr6 =HEX+CAN Newtown = richardsfavorit = HEX+CAN North/North West = Sworrall = Micro-CAN Powys = Toxicvrs = HEX+CAN Rhyl = myheartbeatsfortwo = HEX+CAN Rhyl = Russ_vRS = HEX-V2 Swansea = Waplord = HEX+CAN Wales = g_tee = HEX+CAN South Basingstoke = eggers = HEX+CAN Bishop's Stortford = chrisevans = HEX-V2 Bognor Regis = mushtafa = ?? Bournemouth = Twinpack = HEX+CAN Brighton = paulski = HEX-V2 Croydon = octavialover = Micro-CAN Dorchester = joseDB = HEX+CAN Dorset (Weymouth) = mbames = HEX+CAN Dorset (Yeovil) = Updown789 = HEX+CAN Yeovil = windy1978 = HEX-NET Didcot = WesH = HEX+CAN & ODIS Dulwich/London SE21 = stephenb = HEX+CAN Ealing = Socket2000 = HEX+CAN Farnborough = Papfox = HEX-V2 Hampshire (Romsey) = Railroad = HEX+CAN Hampshire = ollybroad = Micro-CAN Horsham = headcloudmonkey = HEX-V2 & VCP Horsham = Kerans = HEX+CAN Isle of White = Greengolf69 = HEX+CAN London (Hackney) = PatS9 = HEX-NET London (South) = Wayne Kerr = ?? North East Hants = Hedge = HEX+CAN Potters Bar = ApertureS = HEX+CAN Reading = Greyvrsthree = HEX+CAN Reading = Xavier = HEX+CAN Reading (Padworth) = nopowerman = HEX-V2 Reading = Oli = Micro-CAN Reading (Padworth) = YellowVrsToo = HEX+CAN South Merton / Malvern Wells = bspman = HEX+CAN Surrey/godalming = Michaelhare = HEX+CAN Surrey/Sutton = m0bov = HEX+CAN Swindon = Scout66 = HEX-NET Watford = trybar = HEX+CAN West Berkshire = TsvRS = HEX+CAN Winchester = SJFISHER67 = HEX+CAN South East Canterbury = TKW = HEX+CAN Chelmsford = PhilTheGeek + HEX+CAN Ilford Essex = aubrey = HEX+CAN Essex (Middle) = Bossfox = HEX+CA Galleywood Essex = hkp = HEX+CAN New Romney Kent = Gizmo = HEX-NET South West Bath = timnd = Micro-CAN Bristol = Rjg = HEX+CAN Exeter/Exmouth = devonutopia = HEX+CAN Ilton = magicknight75 = HEX+CAN Melksham = Rogerrally = Micro-CAN Salisbury = VAGGAZ = HEX+CAN Somerset/Wiltshire = cheezemonkhai = HEX+CAN South Molton = PetrolDave = HEX+CAN Upavon = jjc = HEX+CAN Weston-super-Mare = R8MXX = Micro-CAN Wiltshire = carisbrook = HEX+CAN Wiltshire (Amesbury office hours) = mbames = HEX+CAN Northern Ireland Bangor = PMK161 = HEX+CAN Belfast = RedOctaviavRS20 = HEX+CAN Carrickfergus = jordy_wd = HEX-V2 Carrickfergus = Sweeperman = HEX+CAN Coleraine = JohnnyType2 = HEX+CAN ? = Badger Driver =HEX+CAN Limavady = StoneFist85 = HEX-NET and OBD11 Ireland Co. Mayo = pdhealy = ?? Co. Meath = TTJD = HEX+CAN Cork = Johngerard= HEX-V2 Dublin = bpm= ?? Dublin = Shahoff = HEX+CAN & EDC16(+) firmware reader/writer Galway = lwalker = HEX+CAN Channel Islands International Sydney (Australia) = pot = HEX-NET Sydney (Australia) = zei20t = HEX+CAN Varna (Bulgaria) = hitmn = HEX+CAN Espoo (Finland) = the_raz = HEX+CAN Nummela (Finland) = tiojanie = HEX-V2 Stuttgart (Germany) = idikmen = HEX-V2 Thessaloniki (Greece) = venom14 = HEX+CAN Vincenzo (Italy) = halfmillion = HEX+CAN Breda (Netherlands) = Antera = HEX-NET & VCP Dordrecht area = (Netherlands) = JJH = HEX+CAN Christchurch (New Zealand) = Simon Cobb = Micro-CAN Tauranga (New Zealand) = bigreddognz = Micro-CAN Wellington (New Zealand) = RobClubley = HEX Wellington (New Zealand) = mabnz = HEX-NET Asker (Norway) = Wetcow = HEX+CAN Bodoe (Norway) = oddvaoes = HEX+CAN & VCP Trondheim (Norway) = Individual = HEX+CAN Kristiansand (Norway) = ArvidG = HEX+CAN Moscow (Russia) = dimp = VCDS, VCP, ODIS Barcelona (Spain) = de_compet = HEX+CAN Sezana (Slovenia) = mtl Gävle (Sweden) = reven = HEX-V2 Gustavsberg (Sweden) =ola_h = HEX+CAN Oberdorf (Switzerland) = swiss_steve = HEX-NET VCDS Owners.doc VCDS Owners.doc

I'd say so. I've not been asked to pay in advance before, and would not. But I was able to pay by card and the money was transferred immediately. That was on a new vRS - I'd actually gone to look at a Blackline, but there was a stone chip in the bonnet which was a deal breaker. With your car I'd want to see the scratches gone completely, to my (very fussy) satisfaction before they saw any more of my readies. Gaz

Have a look at the map and list. -List of VCDS Owners (Previously known as VAG-COM) & VCP Owners -

A couple of scratches and i had forgotten to check tracking and emrgency stop

Beat it to death with a sledgehammer 🤬 Chop it up with an axe, shred the remaining plastic into bits, melt it and then pour the molten plastic into the Skoda CEO's office door lock 👍

Totally forgot to keep this thread alive….. so some of you might have seen my car on instagram but during and just after the lock down, I sent the car away. Was with R-tech for 2 weeks… Came back a totally different car…. now has a venom 350 hybrid turbo, ko4 injectors and all hardware to suit, custom map running now 350bhp. Also has the K brace and under body braces upper front strut brace. LE seats which are far better than standards.

All languages

We really need a proper VCDS or ODBeleven scan of the car. Low fuel pressure could be a multitude of issues. Not likely to be injectors although depending on the mileage (120k miles plus) they should be done. Replace with OEM parts. Check the fuel pressure on VCDS/ODBeleven first and see if it's a pump or pressure regulator issue.

Simple toilet. Only 20 pence but £1 would be ok at charging hubs in Scotland.

I'd be a little wary of the low-priced Rybo ones - they may be ok, but seem far too cheap to be of reasonable quality. I didn't see any reference to a security key either - or are you not bothered with this?

Hi friends. Updated my superb FL RSDB and finally appears my wished station logo. Great.

I don't think a loss of the forward facing camera and it's related warning features (parking sensors etc) could in any way make the car dangerous to drive. It seems most have (temporarily?) fixed the problem by rebooting, has your dealer tried this? But maybe your car has other more serious faults which are not the same as those others on this forum have experienced?

With Obdeleven gen1 all fine

51pence a kWh, £8.80 to get to 98% and 95 miles indicated. Expensive enough for 55 miles. Edit. Down hill to the Harbour and at 100,% 105 miles after 4 miles. Must just try to 97% next time.

The gear shifter is actually a complex switch mechanism with switches for both active and inactive positions (as a cross check of each other). In theory you might be able to rewire the manual mode switches to operate the opposite way, you would need to get a wiring diagram and do some thinking and planning. BTW I agree the manual modes work the wrong way, to me push forward should be downchange and pull back should be upchange - so that the inertia of braking and accelerating assist the change instead of resisting it (this is how my previous Toyots Aygo worked).

This is what i found on another topic 1. Download the compressed package from one of the two links below: Octavia Infotainment Update Version 1985 https://drive.usercontent.google.com/download?id=1SV2ZyzWSfl2-txiI-CagSGEnvhgOnPLd&export=download&authuser=0 https://e.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZSh8xZ7iUQu9K1u4uwTGbHqtxFE7m0OFtV

It actually says /Nav - which means no Nav (the / means without).

Second opinion maybe? I'd have thought seperated lower arm bushes would be picked up on MOT?

Couple from this evening...............

Yeah think that was a common theme for most bar the regulars. Since then I've blown out my undertray. And I need it soon for test. Pulled it off, not much if any damage aside from it. Got a full service kit for 170k -Quantums finest bag in a box oil. -Oil Filter -Air Filter -Fuel Filter -Pollen filter -3 remaining glow plugs -Magnetic Sump Bung -Liqui Moly engine flush (on the cheap) Also got some injector seals and bolts from darkside, but didn't get doing them. New rocker cover injector gaskets too. Hoping to not see anything on this sump plug when I change oil next. Magnet on it is really strong so if there is anything in there I'm sure it will be caught. Remaining plugs looked fine, fair bit of gunk around the top of them so was careful to blow air around the wells to clear them, soaked the threads in penetrant too. New ones in so all should be working as intended coming into winter. Battery is weak again, want to get the biggest battery I can find to fit in the tray, as it does sit. Also came upon this photo on the RMS forum. Laughing it got up on 3 wheels. Full credit to the photographer. Want to do the injector seals soon. Brakes looking scruffy so need painting too. Never stops.

Spotify, Tidal, contacts etc. in fullscreen, some say it's smoother and faster

👍👍👍

my content on ruscists board were deleted on the second day of 3WW began, as result couple of links above are dead, i will try write new summary about alternative kits from Ali positive: + price + independence of car systems + shows additionally to pressure also temperature + in most cases it works well, i have had 4 kits by self + 5 kits ordered for friends, just one were faulty. oldest one in my hands lasted 6 summers and were sold together with car, during last year it took longer time to wake up sensors in the tires, had to drive 100m, while earlier 15m were enough negative: - devices looks identical, but in most cases sensors aren't cross compatible between different manufacturers - last two sets have measurement inaccuracy, it's not big deal if all sensors lies for similar value, but awful when same kit have two with +0.1 one +0.2 and forth -0.1 bar - last years devices woke up with loud beep, what can't be changed improvable: - chrome knobs maybe looks perfect in product description, but in real life they reflects in windscreen, some i painted black, some covered by black film - receiver devices which i had came with 480mAh built in battery, what is enough for April -> September, when it's fed completely by solar panel. but in winter months it asks for charge cable once a 7-10 days, solution is, replace battery to 3-4x more capacious mission impossible: - nowadays is almost impossible find receiver device with perfect type of display perfect one were TUAO_TY03-2 receiver device had display something like OLED, without visible backlite exactly same as product description in far 2017. kit costed me 53€ 4x internal sensors with perfect display +35€ second set of 4x internal sensors for winter wheels next years displays had noticeable or huge backlite bleed 😞 2017 vs 2018 2017 vs 2019 Visture_S05N 2017 vs 2020 2022 unique kit where internal sensors had replaceable battery, but display looks like from past century 2017 vs 2023 T18 2023 T18 vs 2023 E-ACE K02 but that fact gave me 50% refund from Ali for last two kits, because before order i asked seller, is their device same as advertised this cheap alternative isn't only way to go, check also this fantastic OE implementation example by @JR RS -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/488740-my17-superb-retrofitted-with-direct-tpms/

Pretty sure most common rail engines aren't a great candidate for bio-diesel conversion due to the lubrication needs in the high-pressure fuel pumps and injectors so it feels quite unlikely for such a new car to have been converted given the potential savings. There is already an option in the infotainment system to disable interior monitoring if needed. It used to be a switch on the drivers B-pillar... Progress As I said before, the tracker is the most likely option. It might be worth taking a look to see if there is any wiring coming off the back of the switch or any other obvious modifications around the OBD port. It's likely to be a separate system so I wouldn't expect any obvious changes when flicking the switch. It's worth investigating to make sure that you're not being tracked and there are no future issues with power draw causing a flat battery etc. Assuming it has been completely removed, a new blanking plate will let you remove the switch too

Another job ticked off the list, new coolant reservoir minus the silicone bag, bought from AW Tuning and supposedly a genuine bottle. Part number: 5Q0 121 407 M. After removing the old one and draining it I could see the silicone bag in the main body so would have been easily removed but I didnt know if it was double skinned and hidden. Easily fitted and some fresh G12 Evo to go with it too.

A DQ381. Some are having issues. Maybe only 1 or 2% of the tens of thousands produced, but even then VW / Skoda know how many and should be open and honest if there are known issues. If they say a 80,000 mile Oil change service regime then why not put the warranty to 80,000 miles / 8 years on the DSG?

As inspectorman has put plus your Carista OBD2 is drawing power from the car to operate. Multimeters will also vary in readings depending on how accurate they might be, cheap digital ones can vary a lot. 12.85v is good on new AGM battery, subject to how accurate your multimeter is, but I would still fully charge (any) the battery with an appropriate charger maintainer before fitting it to the car, at 12.85v it wouldn't take long. The VW (over) complex battery management computer program will not also fully charge the battery and 20 mile runs mean little as you could be using more electric than goes to the battery depending on your journey(s), driving style and electric use. In case you don't already know these VW self-studies tells you about the batteries, battery and start/stop systems. - SSP-234-Vehicle-batteries.pdf SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf SSP-504_Vehicle_Batteries.pdf

The issue has never happened to me, and I've not been keeping too close an eye on what brand I use over a few decades of driving. There's another school of thought that says having too week of a mixture can cause bacterial growth, and I do like to keep the mixture fairly strong, even in summer.

There are different types of screen wash fluids that can cause a gel like substance to form when mixed. You don't have to use the VAG branded stuff, but you do need to use compatible fluids I'm afraid.

It’s not OEM. That’s all I know.

Be very selective about what mapping and where it's done as the German marques including VW have for decades used very complex and intertwined computer programs so it really needs somebody who really knows what they're doing to start messing with the programs and introducing any changes. You should find threads or posts on good maps and mappers for what you want (rather than just, possibly short term, ego figures). It's not the engine that's the issue otherwise just mapping it to get over your issue would strain the engine. At your age you may remember much smaller and less powerful engine cars carrying families of 5, 6 or 7 going uphill and down dale. VW's rough sounding 4-cylinder are what VW are used to building so one cylinder less is unlikely to be smoother. I/we had a few Japanese cars of much less cubic capacity with turbo and the engines were very sweet and I/we had one that was a Merc engine that was very good engine too (from last century so before quality dropped). My wife's 2015 had a damp seatbelt recently, door seal leak I hope (another non-durable part to the list) I also had that on my last car, soft-top roof leaked, drop in this British company quality of manufacture. My wife had a 1974 Cortina Mk3 2000E in the early 90s, 'Executive' but no headrests and the old IIRC rubber foot bowl for windscreen washer and IIRC foot?) dip switch. My 25 year old Capri was low mileage, below 100k-miles, and Ziebart'd from new so very little rust. The Capri enthusiast who bought the car from me found out why the tailgate was so heavy, it was full of Ziebart. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

That was hard to find, I had to go to your profile to find the listing, then I had to go back there to find out your location which turned out to be unhelpfully vague then I couldn't see a price. It looks very nice but unless you tell us where you are and how much you want for it then I suspect you won't sell it. Also dumb phrases like 'hardly run-in' are superfluous since you're selling to the cognoscenti on here!

Hello, welcome to the forum. Is there a warranty with this car? if so, I'd seriously consider rejection.

Very different propositions. We've had several Octavia's and still have a hatchback, we've had four Yeti's that your coming from and we have a Karoq. We also have the 1.0TSi but in a Fabia. The Octavia has far more boot space, the seating position is lower which you know and the Octavia feels quite a bit longer when parking. The Karoq has a lower roof line than the Yeti and it's easier to stand on the door sills to load the roof. The Karoq has lighter steering and more supple suspension over poor roads than the Octavia. It depends which age of Octavia you are going for but I find the Karoq interior and infotainment superior to the current Octavia. For both Karoq and Octavia estate I'd recommend the 1.5 though. Economy is virtually the same and it's a lot smoother unit especially when combined with DSG. You also have a lot more power in reserve which can be really felt when loaded.