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Don’t worry - I’ve found everyone else to be very helpful and constructive. A bit of debate/disagreement is healthy, however when it becomes pointless mud slinging, it ceases to be constructive. There’s also nothing wrong with banter or humour, but again, that member failed to master the art of comedy. Frankly, for someone that joined the forum before I was old enough to read, I would hope they’d know better. I also won’t be deterred by someone that signs off with a French greeting 🤣

Perfect, thank you - I’m new here and didn’t realise this was a thing! Mods deleted his previous nasty comment, but I unfortunately did get to read it on my email. People vote with their feet. I suspect half of this forum have him on ignore and judging by the amount of time he spends on here making friends, most people in his life do the same. Sorry mods, I’m done now, I promise. Everyone on here is lovely, but there’s always one.

The 'Ignore' button works ok though.

Hear-hear, wishing you a good recovery and enjoyable festive season.

@Occy245 Please don't let one member with a very poor attitude deter you from partaking in the forum.

Perhaps a controversial opinion, but I think people now have far too much faith in their cars. They’ve never experienced a proper accident or felt the car lose control. Certainly, if they had, they wouldn’t drive the way they do on motorways. The amount of times I’ve seen someone in a crossover tearing down the outside lane at 80 when I’ve only got a few car lengths visibility due to the rain, is insane. There should be something like a mandatory skid pan experience after you’ve passed your test.

This is an amazing example of extortionate tax, compared to the actual value of the original product. It's a bit of a reach, but it's still interesting to consider.

I have tried to explain this to my wife, but apparently it doesn't apply if it's raining because then the roads are wet and there's "nothing" you can do to prevent an accident. 🙄

Summer wheels fully cleaned (tar removed too) front and back. Tyres dressed. 24h drying pending (at least)... They'll be put in their protective covers before being stored on saturday I guess.

Oh, this guy is still going? Deliberate provocation several days later followed by “this is boring now”… It’s such a shame this forum doesn’t have a ‘vote to kick’ function.

Certainly. Unless your vehicle actually tells you tyre pressures in each wheel, it doesn't have direct TPMS, so there are no sensors to swap.

I haven’t posted for many years now but thought I would mark the 15th Anniversary of my Skoda yeti 2lt diesel Corrida Red it was registered on 15/12/2009 124300miles done. I like the car am getting on in years now just hoping it will survive another 2 years when I will probably be hanging up my driving gloves. Car has been excellent with only the usual maintenance issues. Plus a replacement clutch at 121500 mileage. Hope you all have a good Xmas.

So now you have Bolero MIB1, with Bluetooth, without DAB, part number 5E0035840A, with USB 5Q0035726B and fortunately you don't have CANTON sound system. You can install one of four different OEM glove box units: - MIB2 Bolero - MIB2 Amundsen - MIB2 Columbus - MIB2.5 Columbus You also need to replace display unit: - for MIB2 Bolero you can use either 6.5" model number 5E0919605H or 8" model number 5E0919605N - for MIB2 Amundsen and MIB2 Columbus you can use listed above display as well as 6.5" model number 5E0919605J, 8" model number 5E0919606, 8" model number 5E0919605M - for MIB2.5 Columbus the only display unit that works is 5E0919606D If you woulkd like to use Apple CarPlay then you also have to replace USB port. The question is what is your budget and which of listed below features are "must have": - Video playback from DVD, USB, SD - CD playback - OEM navigation - displaying OEM maps in Virtual Cluster (Active Info Display). All units support SmartLink (Android Auto, Apple CarPlay, MirrorLink), rear view camera, voice command. features that differ them: - MIB2 Bolero - no OEM navigation, no CD/DVD drive, no video playback from SD/USB - MIB2 Amundsen - OEM navigation, no CD/DVD drive, no video playback from SD/USB, support for displaying OEM maps in Active Info Display (Virtual Cluster) - MIB2 Columbus - OEM navigation, CD/DVD drive, video playback from SD/USB, no support for displaying OEM maps in Active Info Display (Virtual Cluster) - MIB2.5 Columbus - OEM navigation, CD/DVD drive, video playback from SD/USB, support for displaying OEM maps in Active Info Display (Virtual Cluster)

I think @Warrior193 made a very sensible suggestion that AFAIK could be implemented without much bother. But at the moment, I think you've got more than enough to worry about without giving a thought to whether your car will or won't start. Get well first, and then think about sorting it out. 👍

Transport for Greater Manchester’s procurement plan envisages the purchase of a further 250 electric buses by 2027, which, like the 100 vehicles already delivered, have been co-financed by central government as part of the City Region Sustainable Transport Settlement programme. Stagecoach plans to put a further 170 electric buses into service over the same period. Stagecoach operates various routes in the transport area. ADL and BYD had already jointly delivered 32 double-deckers, also of the Enviro 400 EV type, to Manchester in 2021/22.

A 285 miles range seems fair enough.

Always amazed to see that when anyone complains that a feature is inherently dangerous they get an indignant response that that is how it's meant to work. Yes, I'm aware what a feature is. It's still inherently dangerous. It needs to be fixed. - this is why safety regulations are put in place - to remove features that do not take into account the automatic behaviour of people, particularly in stressful situations. Lots of issues in Australia with kids being locked in cars in hot sun. Primary issue is adults automatically locking the car when they get out, because automatic is how people operate They then recall that their kid is in the car and unlock it. And after 30 seconds (while they go indoors) the car AUTOMATICALLY relocks the car with the kid inside. From the AA with regard to using escape tools. Luckily, these types of accidents are rare – in 2017 there were an estimated 8,000 crashes where a vehicle became partially or fully submerged During testing, AAA researchers found that only four of the tools were able to shatter the tempered glass and none were able to break the laminated glass, which stayed intact even after being cracked.

Thanks for replying and the interesting video. It will probably be best for me to go back to an annual change..never mind the relatively low mileage covered.

If you are doing mostly shorter journeys from cold, or lots of slow stop / start traffic, it's good. If you are doing longer journeys it's possibly low depending on driving style.

Bye. We'll miss you. xx

It is one ting killing the golden goose. But the UK Government takes the money and puts it into weapons / ammunition and gives it away. As it is the farmers cost increased when Russia attacked the Ukraine and fertiliser , fuel /energy went high. The UK always there taxing and bringing in revenue and the wars go on. They do not tax high enough the USA Weapons industry in the UK though, they give them grant aid. They even gave Tax Relief to oil & gas companies in the North Sea to decommission rigs and some did and some sold them on and some are very much still in the North Sea with the licences they got from Russian and Chinese Companies. ED MILLIBAND MP being involved with Energy in the UK is really taking the Michael.

Absolutely yes, you should perform an oil change. The video below provides a decent explanation of the problem (and for hybrids its a real problem), but a TL:DW explanation is: when your engine is cold, water vapour in the system can be and is absorbed into the oil via emulsification agents. When the engine heats up, this trapped water can boil off and work its way out of the oil and out of the back of the car. If your engine doesn't warm up, there is no opportunity for the oil-trapped water to boil off, and so there it stays in the oil. It builds up and up until it's beyond the ability of the oil to accommodate. You can end up with sticky sludge and other unpleasantness and very poor performing oil in your engine. For lots of small runs, you should increase your oil changes IMO. EDIT: Beyond that, oil additives only have a limited life, so "old" oil is not good for your car.

For the past 22 years, I have always stuck to Skoda Auto belt servicing intervals, ie distance based belt change, no 5yr time limit (that was Skoda UK "invention"). Skoda Auto might have had 10 years limit on I think 1 car (don't remember which one it was, sorry). Took a lot of flak for this on this very forum for publicising the fact that SUK invented their own service schedule contradicting Skoda Auto, but it seems the 5yr nonsense is finally going away. From direct experience of1.6TDI CAYC engine, you may need to replace the belt much earlier if the water pump starts leaking (I think ~6 years on this one), and on 2.0TDI CUNA engine, after 8 years, one of the timing belt rollers starts making noise from time to time, even though mileage is low for a timing belt. Not enough to replace it yet, but might think about it in a year or 2. Having replaced 4 belts in total on 3 different Skodas (3 at Skoda Auto mileage, 1 for the leaky WP), all of them were in pristine condition at replacement time, so for me the timing belt replacement should be called water pump, timing rollers and tensioner replacement, and the belt is just an extra on top 🙂 So in summary, if it ain't broke, don't fix it until Skoda Auto belt servicing schedule recommendation (as in 140k miles or whatever), but if the water pump leaks, replace WP and the belt/rollers/tensioner while you are at it, it's the same job.

A clear example of how vested interests corrupt governments, such events and industry lobbies and think tanks should have no place in politics anywhere never.

Fit a conical foam air filter, one of those ridiculous waste gate dump/blow-off valves that whistle when you change gear, and a crackle & pop remap. That should get you plenty of attention, however be careful what you wish for. You can also cheat, if you're so inclined. All of the above are abhorrent to me, but I'm happy to help.

You can check your swap code in the Excel file that is in mega archive mentioned above.

This morning i heard a news story again about missing targets on Public EV charging and much more needs doing outwith London and the South West. Really it should not be Public Money needed for Public Charging as there should be the ability for Companies to make profits providing charging at realistic prices. GREAT BRITISH ENERGY as a company or really a Public Owned Agency needs to be ensuring the the Companies are allowed to get on and build charging hubs and the grid connections are not delayed. Where the public should be contributing is with publicly owned Waste Land / Brownfield sites not suitable for housing being made available to Businesses to lease and develop for the Charging Hubs / Transport Hubs, HGV Rest Stops etc. That is not just about on Motorways but in and around towns and cities. North West, England... This term FAST CHARGERS for 7 / 11 kW AC Charge Ports needs put to Bed. SLOW AC Charging. Some are only 3.6 kW.

Yes, these new wheels should behave in the same way as the originals, just check/adjust the pressures after they are fitted, then reset the TPMS and all should be okay.

Yes. You drive according to the capabilities of your vehicle and the conditions. One factor is braking performance, but that is only one of many.

If he physically couldn’t stop, then he’s too close. Simples.

The Oil & Filter Service interval can be 24 months / 18,000-20,000 miles for those doing the sort of miles usage to suit that.. It is not 'supposed to be that'. It can be Fixed Service Intervals for lower annual miles, sorter trips etc. 9,400 miles / 372 days. To me your cars engine really could do with an Oil & Filter change if your car is a keeper. Condensation causing corrosion in an engine. Then Servicing is more than Oil & Filter changes, if you are not doing inspections / maintenance etc. Haldex & Brake Fluid servicing as well. Hygroscopic . So low miles is as bad for stuff as high miles, worse really unless a vehicle is dry stored.

That's not the way the BCM works, maintaining the power only prevents transient faults being generated when the battery is reconnected, which will all clear themselves after a short drive anyway - any battery faults that may be restricting charge from the alternator to the old battery will NOT be cleared by maintaining power while the battery is replaced - nor will any material changes to battery type or capacity be registered to the BCM.

As soon as it’s in place and I’ve had the chance to listen to a few different styles of movie and music I’ll report back. Reason for choice was, it’s big and sealed and they’re claiming some serious levels from both low end and mid bass. That along with the fact it’s new and as you stated, it has a very interesting voice coil construction that I’m hoping helps to seriously compose the sharpness of the mids. the other reason was that we’re pretty sure the 4000 series is being updated next year to a similar style but slightly less than this new 17ultra, so I’d be paying full price for two 4000 series that would be out of date (still very good) in a short period of time. The Av Processor is in a similar position. We are also pretty sure that Yamaha is updating its AV range in 2025 as well. They seem to be heading more high range. They have released a very nice very well made range of stereo amplification recently, with some very very well made components. Like the old school Yamaha amplifiers with milled aluminium knobs and such. I’m hoping they make an attempt at heading their new range of AV processors in the same direction, so I’m very happy to run mine another while to gamble on whatever they come up with. The 17 ultra is coming in the retailers van with one of their installers. Hopefully the two of us can manage it into position. Should have maybe said my room was purpose built above the garage, so has to go up a flight of stairs. 😂 Ive a JCB with pallet forks on standby just in case. Thankfully its the sealed unit, the ported looks like an absolute disaster to handle. It must be nearly a third the size of the sealed again.

Finally got time to try to update the maps. I'd unzipped the file to a 32GB SD card. When the update option was selected I had nervous wait until the update was recognised, then the update started. Previous updates took the best part of an hour, whereas this one only took about 30 minutes.

I'm sorry I cannot help you. However I am heartily amused at the thread title in the forum list. There's a little head-scratcher for the mods. 😄

That's good MPG for an MPi Up! versions with turbos are a lot more efficient, and can get much better mileages. Really, unless the MPG is miles out (no pun intended), comparisons with other users are entirely pointless. I do a lot of regular short trips (and occasional long ones) and despite a warm-ish climate here, I get 44-45 on the short trips. I am extremely gentle, but all my trips involve very steep hills, passing places etc, 20mph zones, and I rarely get beyond 3rd gear. So, this MPG is fantastic mpg for my situation - I have driven hundreds of cars, diesel and petrol, so I'm not talking out of inexperience. On the other hand, I can easily get 60mpg on a long gentle run. Mine is a 75ps, and sometimes I redline it - you have to with such a weedy engine when getting past tractors etc.... The 60ps have almost identical mpg, for entirely obvious reasons, if you know the differences.

Skoda octavia 2018, Driver side vents not blowing hot air all of a sudden, passenger side and back vents in middle console all blowing hot, all settings are on high heat, any ideas why? Expensive fix? Kind regards

It looks like something has triggered component protection to kick in but I can't imagine what. I'd probably start by finding a dealer or local independent using ODIS with online access to reset CP. Guess you could try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to see if restarting everything helps first. Certainly isn't anything obvious to suggest the BCM is faulty...

Luke Evans is a manager in the executive team allegedly

All DSG/Mechatronic oils need to be changed. No oil lasts forever however much VW/Skoda might have you believe. An oil change is far cheaper than a new clutch pack which is another possible cause of the judder.

@stephenmccahil, I enjoyed our chats.

Silicone earbuds with no sound only lower frequencies it doesn’t totally block all sound,everything important is still quite easily recognisable abnormal engine / other traffic sounds yet the minuscule rattles /road noise are lowered considerably Try it you’ll be surprised how much less fatigue you experience after a long drive

I think I'd be concerned about insurance and the risk of not being covered as it isn't one of Skoda's approved sizes. Just an observation about Cross Climate 2s on the 19" crater wheels. I too had Bridgestones on my ex-demo car but after 9k miles bit the bullet and invested in 4 Cross Climate 2s. They definitely ride better than the Bridgestones, last longer and out-perform them winter and summer. The rears are only half worn at 31k miles.

OK is a relative term. I used to have Mk1 Superb 2.5TDI V6 where glow plugs did not show open circuit, but gradually reduced performance until cold start problems started appearing, I think around 8 years time or so. The resistance has increased by a factor of 2x, so they were heating only half as well compared to when they were new. Replaced the lot (6 of them), have not had a problem afterwards until the end of car at ~350kkm / 219k miles. On other cars, 4-cyl TDIs, I usually had one glow plug blown and at this point replaced the lot. I always replace with NGK ones that glow hotter, perhaps that's why so far, I did not have to replace them again, even if they wear out a bit, they're still hot enough. Glow plugs do work for quite a while after engine start, this is both for smooth running when cold and for emissions reasons.

You can reactivate with odis online or by dealer

@Watsons might return and tell us if not only did he / she change their car but also at that time their trousers / rear pockets normal habit.

I recommend using bulbs from Kopacek, former super-skoda. Cheaper ebay etc. bulbs might cause random issues over time because they have less resistance than oem bulbs and can mix up the electric circuit they are part of. You probably want to do this only once.

Coding is recommended, so why didn't they code it?

Yeah that's the Italian tune-up isn't it? Give it a booting before the MOT so the emissions test doesn't get a false bad reading? The only other question to check - what colour is it? White is steam (condensation water sat in the exhaust getting heated as the hot gases pass through), slightly blue is oil, grey/black is soot (or just 'diesels'). 272 is 280 basically so def in the right place, same car with the same EA888.3 engine; just change in GPF. They are fantastic cars.

I am now scared to go out, or to stay in. When i do i will carry a centre punch.