Leaderboard

I've been reading this forum for a fair few years now, and problems caused by blocked fuel filters on petrol engined cars are not something that ever seems to happen. Lots of people change them and cause themselves problems by fitting ones with wrongly rated pressure regulators, and some people cause leaks. Virtually no-one ever solves a problem by changing one.

@SkodaKing This is a place for help and advice. It doesn’t have to be accepted or agreed with, but that’s the price you pay for free help. From a million posts on here: Any electrical gremlins point to two things in the main: Battery on its way out the door Wheel speed sensor gone bad If the battery is in the window then no other battery behaviour or experience has any bearing tbh. Too many people have had to change their battery at anywhere between 5 and 9 years for there to be any bearing; it’s dependent on driving behaviour, climate, quality of battery, how long it’s sat with previous owners/car lot etc etc etc. First thing I’d do is change it rather than over-analyse it.

Or just jack a wheel up and rotate a wheel by hand while listening.

Stone trapped between the brake disc and shield?

Hi, I'm a big fan of the skoda but drove a Saab for the past few years. Because of kids this car is getting too small and I'm looking for a replacement which will probably be a skoda superb. I also love motorcycles, have had a few old ones and new ones. I do all the work myself, you have to though when you own a Saab anyways. Hi to all and see you in the forums.

Checked the battery with no ignition, reading was 12.5v. After running the lights for a few minutes then testing again it was 12.3v rising to about 12.4v. With the car running it was 13-14v. Not sure if this means it's fine or not, I'm reading conflicting info online about whether it needs charging or replacing. The fuse under the bonnet mentioned by @nta16 is intact. Still tempted to buy a new battery anyway given it's over nine years old, but I'm not convinced it's anything to do with the rear wiper or the error message with the ignition off. I think it's the stalk which is a) not doing what it should, and b) doing what it shouldn't. So a new battery wouldn't make any difference to that anyway.

Never had it on any car so don't miss it. As @sussamb says, given how the other Skoda "aids" are prone to error, I wouldn't trust it either.

Just info in case it happens to anyone else. My 9 month old Mark 4.5 Octavia RS wagon started flashing up a Damper Fault recently with each engine start along with the damper logo and warning triangle. The manual said off to the dealer so I sent it in yesterday and had a Scala 85kW loaner (very gutless and way too much turbo lag off the bottom end before it gets going) for the day. The issue turned out to be a speed sensor that had become detached from the system. Hopefully that is that and onwards we go. This is unfortunately the second warranty issue in 9 months (first was battery replacement). It is reinforcing the view that VAG vehicles really are something you only want with a warranty.

I’m running 39. My last car had 225/45 18s and I ran 37-38. I have tried a few psi less and it just seemed to have more movement. I don’t find the ride bad at 39 although I have DCC. My oem tyres are Goodyear Eagle F1 Supersports. Most people underinflate their tyres which leads to less grip, less fuel efficiency and more wear.

Ok I am eventually convinced thanks 😉

Supermarkets here are almost all owned by very large companies and have fuel stations for the same reason but sell high quality fuel generally well looked after so if there are any concerns or rumours about their fuels it got reported on nationally whether true or correct or not. I would expect there to be isolated cases of problems but they would be a tiny fraction of those that claim or report issues, I would expect more often that issues would be by user or just uniformed or deliberate false claims. The UK followed the USA with a claim culture with also blaming others for your own mistakes, ignorance and stupidity but despite this still you don't generally hear of poor quality fuel for cars in the UK over many years. Since starting car ownership in the 1970s I have never had any issues from poor quality or known anyone else that has but I have not refuelled in France very often at all or been to France for a good number of years. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Hi, Sure, Will update my profile. Concerning your remark yes : we can buy petrol from the usual gas stations but more and more people go to super markets who opened gas stations (not for profit) but to attract Customers. These last ones are invading the market because they sell petrol with a very little margin ... therefore the quality of the tank cleaning is just awful.

Its this post ^^^ You steered the conversation about @dx4100 's AAWireless but you didn't specify whether it was because you were implying a battery drain or whether its presence is interfering with systems. People replied with posts how to understand if its the former (ie ruling it out) and then you start questioning the direction of the conversation. Hope that clarifies.

Mutimeter only tells you part of the story. Need to check the state of charge & health to get the batterys health. Your car might start up but that dosen't mean the battery is healthy and then you start to see issues like this is my understanding. KINGBOLEN BM550 is the sort of thing you need to test properly.

You said this without much context -> "My horn and ACC are also fine, when the car is turned off...." This is what caused the direction of travel. I see what you are saying about the AAWireless resolved it for you and we are just trying to understand how that might be an issue and nothing seems obvious. Maybe its creating a temproary short and when you powercycle the car it resolves. There is strong theory its the battery though. I get my battery tester on Thursday and will see what the health of it is. I could remove the the AAWireless but its too useful Did you swap out the battery at any point ?

Horn should work when car is unlocked. Power is delivered on unlocking. When I lock my car the anrdoid auto device does power off. When I ulock it powers up. Thats how the USB socket is suupose to work.

Does the noise change if you brake? Does it do it while coasting, rather than under load? Is it more pronounced on cornering? Is it more noticeable on full lock at parking speed, either forward or reverse? Have you checked your tyres for stones/nails/screws or other foreign bodies? Gaz

Well in a roundabout way I’ve ended up back in a mk3 VRS 🤣. Sold the 340 pretty quickly and jumped into an F80 M3 Competition which is one of the best cars I’ve owned. However, due to changes in the wife’s work (teacher wanting to drop hours to spend more time with our son) this ultimately had to go to support the her… so I’ve inherited her Rallye Green FL 230VRS which to be honest I’ve always had a soft spot for. I miss the big power and acceleration / handling of the M car but to be honest it’s difficult to beat the capability of these Octavia’s, proper solid all rounder IMO. Here it is having a bath, Titan Ceramic Coating working strong! Better photos to follow once I’ve finished tweaking it 😎

Autodoc also have SILFER8D7ES. There is a decode chart for each of the letters so I’m not sure what the difference is but you have to look up the Golf Mk8 R or Audi S3 8Y to get the equivalent DNF engine (otherwise it just assumes EA888.3 engine 🙄)

If the garage order the wrong one it’s their problem not yours. Iirc the clutch, spring and DMF were made as kits from two manufacturers and you couldn’t mis some bits from one and others from the other. I’d get a whole kit and a release bearing/hydraulics too as the extra cost is way less than taking it apart again.

Try here............. www.autodoc.co.uk or. LUK on ebay.co.uk Always worth a tele call to be 100% sure of the right part. Are you also fitting a new Clutch Kit? Highly recommended.

I wouldn’t rely on anything chat recommends…

Success!! I managed to get it done with the assistance of my daughter. Thank you very much for all your help. My next step is to work out why the car won’t allow me to become the primary user, but that’s for another day. Thanks again 👍

PM sent

Just heard from the Dealer that the car is with them ready for delivery - lease company just haven't yet authorised it....any day now (hopefully). So August 18th order placed, build week 43, <6 weeks to UK and dealer inspection/registration etc. completed before w49! Final spec was Elroq 85, Plus Pack, Winter Pack, Heat Pump and in Grey

thanks; if anyone interested go to You Tube >> Scottish Car Clan videos, the presenter highlights the way the industry is going and how in time this will mean cars will become uneconomic to repair much quicker than previously, especially given the restrictive practices which push you towards main dealers (and costs) who have the software. It is seems planned obsolescence is on the rise - hardly enviromentally friendly. Cars are now mobile computers and its even more complex and expensive if you go electric or hybrid.

We headed to Castleton after visiting the Dams...........

Easiest option for Bluetooth is an adapter that goes in the fag lighter. It picks up your Bluetooth (from a phone say) and broadcasts it via radio, so you just tune the radio to the right frequency.

Thank you, prying tool provided a great tip. If someone is still looking for an answer, I was able to remove the frame with a plastic tool, starting from the inside and prying a little bit at each corner. Comes off easily without much force. Now I'm looking for an insulation material to use; open to suggestions. This little tool did the trick.

This sort of thing really annoys me with insurers, they demand the vehicle reg, which tells them exactly what the car is, & then they start asking questions about it. Direct Line are one of the worst, having just told them via the reg which car you have, they then ask if it's a van! Try a comparison site via a cashback site.

Don't think you've seen my latest post - I've fixed the issue as of yesterday. My tracking is spot on, had it done when I replaced all four tyres. The noise was unmistakably a noisy bearing, it was just very hard to know which bearing. I thought NSF but yesterday has proven it was OSF. Dropped lucky with getting hold of 2 genuine VAG bearing kits complete with bolts for £70 a piece. So it's only cost me £140 to replace both fronts so I'm pretty chuffed, especially now my concerns of a gearbox bearing failure are put to bed! Thanks for the reply though, and to everybody else who offered suggestions

*UPDATE* Thought I'd post this in case it helps someone else. Due to the noise getting louder when turning right but sounding like the front and me having already replaced NSF, I've spent a long time agonising over whether to try NSR or OSF first. Long story short, after feeling vibration through the pedals, I decided to try OSF first and it has fixed the issue. Learning point is that the convential thinking of the bearing that is loaded when cornering becoming noisier isn't necessarily correct

All worthwhile trying. But it is a lot harder to identify the culprit esp in early stages these days with the integrated bearings. I had noticeable drone from a wheel. Tried loading un loading left and right sides, no difference. Jacked all wheels up, checked for deflection and spun them, couldn't tell. In the end I took it to a local garage and asked to diagnose. He struggled even with car in air, driving all 4 wheels and a stethoscope but said his best guess was nsr. He was right. I paid for the diagnosis.

Let's just say that if I see a truck filling the tank at a gas station, stirring up all the mud and algae, I'll go to a different gas station. Thanks for your encouragement. I am not saying it is like in Angola here, and it should be fine for at least a few years. Just a minor detail, Skoda could have put that filter outside. It's like the back seat in the Fabia (the seat cushion) that doesn't fold down ... little little things obviously ...