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I suggest checking any earth connections to the engine / starter.

@MaxvdP It would be useful if you said what engine and gearbox your Octavia has, and how long have you had the 4 year old car?

Update. . . . I managed to get to the local dealer and we were able to identify the part, it is the full assembly so I got it on order last Saturday, but the guy was new and couldn't work the till, so another chap called me on the Monday and as I had to pay on order they sent me a link and £242.40 was transferred, they called me two days later saying it had arrived. I picked it up today and decided as I'm now off work I'll get it fitted. It was a bit of a faff with the car up on one axle stand, but I removed the ns rear wheel, a short section of undertray and it made it quite accessible, using a stubby screwdriver and torx bit I got the old one off and the new one plugged in, bolted in place and the undertray refitted etc. A few pictures below. Notice it's a VW part, no wonder it was so expensive 😂 Started the car up, the headlights did their little dance up and down and no error on the screen, so a winner. The old one was seized up good and proper, but after 8 years and circa 108,000 miles I don't think it was that bad.

Both front drains cleared, ran some hot (not boiling) water down them and blew into them, both seem to flow unobstructed now. Wasn't able to access the rear ones without disassembling the entire car, but they do seem to be working and the car has been parked nose-down every day for the last 3 years so presumably the rear drains don't get much action as the fronts. I poured some water onto the back of the sunroof and held the seal open with a plastic trim tool and I saw water dripping out from behind the rear bumper so i'd say they're good. Also had alot of rain last night and the interior was dry this morning 🥳 Just waiting for a dry day now to reassemble everything. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to remove the front seats in the Octavia! The sunroof is still jammed shut, but thats a future me problem I think. Whenever you open the sunroof, it tilts up a little less than it normally would, then you can see the glass jolt back as the motors attempt to start sliding the glass, then they just bounce back and it gives up opening, as if its triggering the obstruction detection It doesn't open any more than a tilt. Thanks everyone for your comments/suggestions.

£1k seems a bit steep, genuine parts can be had for around £200 so that's a nice little earner for a couple of hours work but i guess its london so half expected. As for a mechanic saying he doesnt have the specialist tool required, £20 or so buys the specialist tool required so if he cant afford that, he's probably better avoided anyway. what kind of water pump are they fitting? original with shroud or aftermarket without, some people prefer shroudless as it removes the same thing happening again, however be prepared for longer heat up times

They do make cars financially sustainable, but for them not us

My 2019 Skoda Superb 2.0 diesel recently (last two months) started to periodically overheat, with big red warning messages on the dash. I would pull-over and stop for a minute or two, then restart the engine. Sometimes it would then run normally, other times it would start to overheat again. I arranged for a local garage near Matfield in East Sussex to get the water pump replaced (cambelt replaced at the same time). Mileage 46,000. Cost £800. The mechanic showed me the old water pump. The shroud was stuck. Clearly this is a bit of a weakness in the water pump design. Annoying, as the car generally is enjoyable and practical one to drive.

Because VW are German and use the metric systems (as well as their unnecessary additional VW specifications) they want 15,000km which is 9,320.5679 miles according to Google. VWŠkoda have fixed annual 9.4k-miles or variable 20k miles but this is really only about the engine oil and filter change which as you know is a relatively unimportant component or system on the car whether you need the engine oil changed at 12-months, 9.4K-miles or less or 20k-miles or more depends on the engine use. As for the rest of the car that's from your experience but a car from VW will generally require more servicing and what VWŠkoda call "maintenance" than say for a Japanese or Korean make of car. If your lads service other VW cars they will know what might need attention sooner rather than later, if not they can find out, as you are happy with them I'd suggest you be guided by them rather than the very specific demands of VW. If you have a VW 3-cylinder petrol I'd suggest not missing any spark plug change interval and for you going to the more expensive and longer lasting iridium plugs. Good luck, be interesting to know how resilient a VWŠkoda Mk4 is to learner drivers' use, how long it lasts.

I think there’s something about looking at where the loom comes from the roof to the boot, see if there is any damage to the accordion pipe that the wires run through.

Skoda UK have never made a big deal if Fixed Servicing is done at 10,000 miles because it is within 1,000 miles of the Schedule. But the small print says 500 miles for the Warranty. But all cars other than the Citigo have left the Factory for the UK since 2011 with Variable Servicing showing. They get changed if they do usually at the PDI, maybe without having asked the first registered keeper, or if Demonstrators.

Great you've got it fixed, thanks for reporting back.

It looks like 16'' is an option, if they fit over the front brakes? You can also check the Tyre Pressure Sticker Plate for sizes as well. ( behind the fuel filler cap? ) Skoda SCALA: KW:66>110 Vin:NH Year:19 - Caliper: PCD:5x100 GVW:1880 Max Speed:220 Kerb Weight: NutBoltThreadType:M14x1.5 NutBoltHex:17 BoltLength:28 NutBoltTorque:125 Tyre Load Speed Norm Press Laden Press Rim Size Offset Cent Bore RunFlat Extra Load Track Max RimWidth F: 205/55R16 91 V 2.3 2.5 6 x 16 40 57.1 8 R: 205/55R16 91 V 2.3 3.2 6 x 16 40 57.1 8 Scala 1.5L TSi 150ps SE L KW:110 Year: Vin:NW Tyre Load Speed Press LadenPress RimSize Offset RunFlat Extra Load F: 205/50R17 89 W 6.5 x 17 40 R: 205/50R17 89 W 6.5 x 17 40 Scala 18 Opt KW: Year: Vin:NW Tyre Load Speed Press LadenPress RimSize Offset RunFlat Extra Load F: 205/45R18 90 V 7 x 18 40 R: 205/45R18 90 V 7 x 18 40 Scala 1.5L TSi Monte Carlo KW:110 Year: Vin:NW 205 55 16 is a very common size. Thanks. AG Falco

What miles has it done, & what was FULLY Serviced, was the Pollen Filter changed, was the brake fluid changed according to the Skoda Schedule now, @ 2 years? VW / Skoda converted km to miles and got 15,000 km to 9,300 with VW,s and for Skoda's 9,400 miles. Then a year and a week from a PDI, allowing for holidays maybe 372 days not 12 months. Variable 24 months / 18,000-20,000. Major / Minor was a decade back, then Interim / Major. Now Oil & Inspection Service and that with Extended Scope each 3 years. The Garage will know what the car needs and when for your usage surely. If you want it,s oil and filter changed at 12,000 miles, or 15,000 then have that done. It could have been left on Variable servicing and not reset to Fixed, 9,400 miles / 1 year (1 year and a week.) PS, Spark Plugs changed 4 years / 40,000 miles or sooner. Air filter checked each service, not as per Skoda / VW, 60,000 miles / 6 years.

Thanks. I don't want to get any usual tyre size that will be hard to fix in an emergency.

This might help it might not, it would seem like the winter cold weather demons are doing their work again, I got in my car to go home after work one day last week and I noticed that the clock was at 00:00 so I checked the settings and it was still on the auto time zone so I changed it to manual, went back to the home screen, no change. So as with most things these days, turn it off and back on again, however there is a reset you can do, with the unit on, simply press and hold the on/off button and it will eventually reset and come back on. Give it a try, it's worth a punt. . . .

The third installment of my fascinating features series went live over on our YouTube channel last week. In this one it features the drinks cooler built into the Yeti, how a leaky shock isn't always a bad thing and how you can close the windows without even being in the car 😊. Enjoy! P.s, this one may contain some BAFTA award winning acting within it 😄.

Hi and welcome to Briskoda 👋

Hi, Kev and welcome to Briskoda 👋

ooooohhhhh.....eyks - honestly - I wouldn't trust anything other than VCDS or ODBEleven to read a VAG vehicle.

Škoda StoryboardA smithy full of stories - Škoda StoryboardThe Škoda Museum is opening a unique exhibition proving that it is not only shiny cars renovated down to the last detail that possess true charm. The stories hidden within cars marked by the passage o Škoda StoryboardDual clutch for Europe, torque converter for extreme cond...Škoda Auto has a long tradition of developing manual transmissions and has also gained considerable expertise in automatic transmissions, both dual-clutch and hydrodynamic converter types. According t

I know of a few peeps using the Ottocast mini in their Superb and they like it. Very small, easy to use.

Out of interest, which scan tool did you use to "code in" your new battery? It might be relevant.

Great stuff, cheers 👍

I'll see my garage pal on Monday, I'll take a look at his Autodata service stuff and report back 👍

It is clear enough, the EU / Europe does not have enough materials for building the required number of Battery Electric Vehicles or the Electricity to build them or for drivers to charge them. But then the EU / Europe has not enough materials or energy to build ICE vehicles and has to Import the Oil to Refine or the fuels to power them. The EU / Europe lacks many resources that require importation. The Ukraine was & is required for manufacturing, materials and energy and Hungary & Slovakia are essential for Car manufacturing and cheap labour and the Energy Russia allowed in to these countries. Its all a bit difficult for Germany & Austria really. They need their neighbouring countries and others for manufacturing.

I have a 200PS TDI 2L from Nov.2023. My car consistently uses 1L of oil each 7000km. The first 3 times the dealer refilled the oil, checked there were no leaks and we were monitoring the situation. According to them, it's within VW spec so unless it gets worse VW won't do anything. I'm now at almost 60k km and it has stayed constant at 1L per 7000km. Min->max on the dipstick takes just about 1L. My 2014 Octavia TDI will do 30k km and use less than 0.75L of oil. They suggested it's due to the change in oil from 5W30 on older engines to 0W30 on modern ones but as it's under warranty they will not allow me to change. As it's constant I don't mind topping up regularly & bought 5L of Castrol Edge for £35 to keep it topped up between services

2019 Superb mk3 2.0 diesel. In March 2025 a steady orange engine light appeared appeared on the dash, and the car went permanently into limp mode. I contacted Caffyns Skoda Dealer in Tunbridge Wells on Monday 16 March 2025 for advice. Was the car safe to drive for us? For other road users? For the car? I was told I could bring the car into them for checking on the 29th. But not March. April!! I was not impressed with this lack of service. I instead arranged to take it to a local garage near Matfield in East Sussex on Wednesday 18 March 2025. In just a few minutes the mechanic there read the electronic diagnostics and advised it was a problem with the Adblue sensor no longer working. He later phoned me and said that as the sensor is inside the sealed adblue tank it requires a complete replacement of the tank in order to fit a new sensor! I was not happy about this news as costs around £600 to fit/replace. For the moment I have had the adblue system 'mapped-out' (cost £300) so the car no longer looks for a working adblue sensor and all is driving quite normally. The cost of car assemblies at times seems unreasonable. Thermostat valve replacement on the cooling system requires a complete new water pump (see posting elsewhere). Adblue sensor requires a complete new tank. A bulb goes in a headlamp and suddenly you have to buy a complete headlamp assembly costing hundreds, rather then a £15 bulb. As I am a private buyer I think manufacturers should be more careful about making vehicles financially sustainable in the long-term.

I have the same engine in my Octavia vRS. It seems they do use oil. Mine goes down to halfway on the dipstick after 3.5k.

An update. After doing several small trips and a couple of 70 mile journeys. I soon found that after blanking off the Evap inlet, the mpg readings were once again excellent, back to the 60+ region for my typical runs. I got an EVAP error PO441 quite quickly when travelling on the motorway, but no running issues, and after a few days of similar mpg readings I bought a replacement EVAP valve from Ebay, in fact I bought two both at under £9 each Although I could not find one listed specifically for my can I just went for the same part number from the old one, 6QE906517, seems to be a popular one for Audi, SEAT, Skoda and VW. So at the moment all seems well and I am starting to get back confidence in my car. Just annoying that I was told it was tested and was fine. Time will tell but at the moment keeping fingers crossed it stays fine. Adrian

From the manufacturers point of view they have the option of selling a replacement sensor for £ with little profit, or a complete assembly costing ££££ with lots of profit. Manufacturers are a business and they need to make a profit to survive/invest so it's the ££££ we have to put up with.

I think an investment into that £2.80 amazon brush that clears out the drain is probably worth it in that case. Well done for getting it cleared.

For MK3.5 cars, it should be fine. Try not to get the highest output; try to use proper bulbs from Osram or Philips. Use a bulb with a colour temperature of 5500k. You might need to manually wind down the beam to its lowest level and beware that (at least in the MK3 halogen lights, they can be overwhelmed by extremely bright lights).

You could use some carpet unerlay. Just got carpets fitted and they used 10mm polyeurothane foam underlay. If you have any carpet shops about the fitters will have offcuts they are dumping. Glad you got to the problem fairly easily and hope car dries out.

Update, good news! Managed to remove the sun visor & handle to pry the headlining down just enough to get to the tube. The pipe was clogged almost all the way down. Shoved some locking wire down it, then pumped some warm water through it and got it cleared. Got my hands on a wet vac and managed to remove nearly 3L of water from the carpets! I had to cut out the yellow foam underneath the pedals as that was absolutely sodden, and it unfortunately just disintegrated in the process so i'll need to DIY something here before putting the carpet back in. The thick padding material underneath the carpets i've ran through the dryer a couple times and that seems to be nice n dry now. Car is currently sat with an electric heater in it and the drivers carpet pinned up to dry the rest out. I'm going to repeat the same process for the drain on the passenger side later today as a precaution, though luckily that one hasn't leaked yet. Thank god I caught this reasonably early!

Hyper Green vRS on 21’s you say?

I wouldn't worry about the removal of the private plate causing an issue. A buyer's history check will show the 'date of last V5 issued', which will be for the plate change. You have the paperwork, so no concern. I always use AutoTrader to sell my cars - it disguises your number, and you attract serious potential buyers. I sold my hobby Audi A2 recently and had 1800 views in 3 weeks. EBay and Gumtree arent very good in my view. On insurance, get that issue out of the way before you agree for someone to look at it - please bring temporary insurance proof for my registration (it costs £15/20 a day), which might see off any characters. Car-wise, is a Skoda Scala any good for you? It's basically a Golf like the Leon, but it might be a good option to trade the Yeti against. I know yours is too old for a dealer to retail, but they likely have an arrangement with a local trade r to take the 'older stuff'. The Yeti is still very saleable. What model of Yeti do you have and what's the mileage out of interest?

Briskoda Cars for sale might be a good place to advertise a Yeti.

i have the 2025 FL 1.5 Mhev, and the dealer told me its normal, its due to the switch to the electrical motor for charging. and the clicking is when it changes the levels of the regenerative braking. but would like to hear maybe from other people as well..

Hi all, so after delaying and delaying I finally bit the bullet and booked my car in for a Cambelt change and water pump too. The garage I have been using recently, a sole trader, informed me he did not have the special tool required to do it. I found another garage and after visiting and speaking to them, booked it in. I was quoted just over £1000, which I know I would have to spend at some point due to the mileage and age meaning a belt change would be immanent. Done in a day, no issues. And all the problems I had been having are no more. I have left it for a good few weeks incase it did reoccur but so far so good. I am now very confident that my suspicions of it being to do with the electronic shroud part of the water pump was correct. Lets hope I haven’t just jinked it 🤞🏻🙏🏻 Thanks all for you help.

This earlier forum thread may be of interest https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/514511-fitting-netbase-322gw/ And this video explains the general principles

And they’re on. And reminded how droney they are but that’s winter tread for you! Still got at least one season left in the summer tyres but these winters look very new still.

There were two types of pre facelift light and two types of facelift light. Pre Facelift: - filament bulb, single ‘C’ style light. Low functionality. - LED, double ‘C’ style light. High functionality. Facelift: - LED, single ‘C’ style light. Low functionality. - LED, single thick ‘C’. High functionality. Both high functionality light types were standard on vRS and L&K models and an optional extra on other models (although they were possibly standard on SE Tech models too). There is no differentiation between hatch and estate models.

According to the three relevant diagrams on this page: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/superb/sup/2016-768/6/ the possibilities are 288mm, 312mm or 340mm. Cut a flat piece of carboard into a U-shape with 288mm between the insides of the U, and make the legs of the U about 50mm wide. See if it fits across the diameter of the disc. If it doesn't, open up the cutout to be 312mm, see if that fits. If it still doesn't you have the 340mm set-up. Or just put a piece of string round the circumference, measure that and divide it by pi.

I’ve had Goodyear all seasons on several cars including my old Octavia scout, SLK230 and Auris hybrid. I’ve been delighted with the cold and wet weather performance. Personally I would match all 4 tyres if possible, the problem with the 16” Fabia tyres is that it’s a very expensive size. A while ago I priced up a set of 15” steels with cross climates for my Fabia - they were about the same price as just the 16” tyres A good midrange 16” summer tyre is the Khumo HS51 or 52. They are around half the price of the all seasons. Mark