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Wintry weather, EV real world. Not the car or drivers fault or even the weather, it can be crap chargers. The battery was not pre heated as only run for 1/4 of a mile to the one available 50 kW DC charger unless starting the journey and hoping the ones 6 miles away are available and working. So around freezing and going just above. I want safely 120 miles range later on to get a charge hub allowing for possible diversions. 52 kWh Battery 48 kWh usable. 70 pence a kWh and max speed at plugging in 12 kW and getting to a max of 20 kW. So to get to 100% that was £10.95 for 15.6 kWh. & took 55 minutes. Max charge time is 60 minutes here then a £30 penalty. So anyone wanting a good charge up is stuffed. 15.6 kW might give me x 3.1 miles per kWh in these temps. so an extra 50 miles for £11. This is real world crap infrastructure in the South West Scotland and Council Public Chargers.

Before & After I caught up with a fellow forum member today - seeing his car (MY18) took me back to 8 yrs ago when I picked up Gandalf (MY17). Original factory look. Both 162TSi Business Grey Lift back with Tech & Comfort packs.

@seanw I think this is the light under the door mirror that shines down as another puddle-light type.

A few from our recent annual trip to see the Christmas lights at Belton.............

I stood virtually in the same spot - took with a HTC One (M8) back in 2016

IYou can generally perform the update yourself. A charger and diagnostic software are highly recommended.

I only ever get approaching 80 mpg on a journey of mostly free running motorway, but I can still get 60+ mpg on undulating winding roads. It takes a lot of concentration though, neutral down slopes (eco mode or doing it manually) coasting up and down over again, extremely light throttle etc, and it works. It doesn’t mean holding up traffic either, always pretty much up to the speed limits. And this is the 4x4 that’s supposed to be less efficient than the 2wd. I had the 2wd before and I never or rarely got over 70 mpg. If I revert to what I’d call normal driving then it’s down to anything from 40mpg to low 50’s

7zip is the Vag recommended way of doing it.

Replacing / painting a door, if that’s what happened, would have no relevance to any HPI declaration. It is also unlikely a car would be declared a total loss as a result of a damaged outer sill. Buying a used car can be a minefield, hence the need to be vigilant in pre-purchase examinations.

The Sportline version of the Karoq offers little, if any, improved performance than other model designations in the range. The Sportline designation is all about how the car looks. If you’re moving to a Karoq from a VRS then performance shouldn’t be a consideration. The Karoq though, is a good choice of SUV.

Ah sorry... Yep, typing on a phone... Alsonager did mean also managed. This was the post I was remembering but was on a MK2 Octavia... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/500273-cleaning-inside-of-headlight-lens/

The option to auto lock is on one of the many menus. The handbook is probably a good start. Not so handy if you are picking up an impatient passenger. But good for security in an urban area.

Many thanks. Enjoy your own Christmas and New Year.

There are 2 of them, their hand overs and Sales staff are no better than Arnold Clark, Western or any of the others really. When you find the Security bolt socket or even before i would check you can actually release the bolts to change a wheel using the tool you have. Others wise you are left with Skoda Assist doing it. Have a lovely Christmas and a Happy new year. PS. Check where the Oil level is when cold if your car has a dipstick, then when at operating temp so you know where it was at hand over, and then for topping up, and then after services. It will be pretty much just enough in. They are supposed to check at the PDI. Look see the coolant level as is now when the car is new.

Thanks for correcting as ever 😁

I've been told to lift the carpet behind the third row seats and look for a foam insert. Thekey is there apparently. With the Xmas festivities and visiting family etc I've not had a chance to look yet. BTW how the hell did you know it was Henrys in Glasgow? Spooky!

I will now. Thank you.

Only the facelift Superb uses that triangular lighting bit. Pre-facelift uses the foglights for low speed Cornering Light function.

All mk3 Superb Bi-Xenon headlights have AFS 2, which swivels the low beam left/right during cornering. It also changes the length & width of the beam depending on the driving environment (urban, highway, rain etc. etc.) In addition, if enabled, the foglights also have Cornering Light function, which lights up the ground directly in front of the car, during low cornering speeds. With the built-in sunshades (blinds), it depends on the market and options. Mine has the rear window shades, but not the rear hatch shade.

(“Travs”) 🤭 Here you go

Pretty clear Sky this evening 🌛

Hi John I read your previous post as you intended it to come across. No harm at all in emphasising the risks involved in messing about with the control units. The automotive equivalent of bricking a phone. TBH, I chose the VAG approved OBD Eleven as I didn't want to risk a warranty claim being rejected on the back of them being able to detect (if they could) a non-approved reader being attached and scanning the control units.

Local garage stopped fitting certain brands of clutch due to them being cheap and not lasting. I have been fitting LUK or Sachs for years on there reccomendation and have had no problems so far. There not that much more cost wise but seem to last. I would check what brand of clutch they are actually fitting in case its a cheap one Alasdair

I think more for a connection by enet cable and telnet unit but need to deep more to know how to access and have only 1 unit so I won’t take adventure to brick it 😂😂😂

Can you send me link to the post on drive.ru where is stated to be possible to do this without serial programmer? I know there is software "MIBHelper" but it works only for Bolero/Amundsen/Columbus, unfortunately not Swing...

Ah this one maybe more confortable I read also about a patch by enthusiast in drive2.ru it stated solution without opening unit but didn’t manage to understand how written in russian

Worked perfectly but it was to hard to get it readed the clap is tricky i Have unsoldred and soldred back

The photo above is my steering wheel just to be clear! I think it's more like the standard Sportline Plus one. The seats look the same as the L&K ones but in Alcantara (which I prefer) rather than leather of the L&K. Definitely not as contoured as the Sportline Plus 280 seats in the other cars I tried before I bought this one.

And it’s a Hawk Stratos with an Alfa Romeo 3.0 V6, 220bhp, half the weight of the Superb and 345*35*15 rear tyres. Can’t launch over 5000rpm or it shreds the tyres…..

Update for anyone who is interested. I replaced the rear shocks with Bilstein B6's and it was clear the previous shock absorbers had gone. A very easy job and now the handling is much better. I have still got the front ones to do.

@Sane420 - with the BCM pin, I ended up buying the B-Connector which came with the pins. This way there was no trial n error. Wasn't expensive. AliExpress link. With regards to the power, yeah, the BCM wire source is sufficient to power the DRL strip. Ground was taken from an existing ground point near the BCM modules. If u want to power something bigger, like driving lights, u should use the 14-pin piggyback headlight connector and do it that way. With the connectors in the bumper, these r the connectors I used. AliExpress link. With the wiring from the BCM modules to the engine bay - that was a pain to do!! Essentially there is a rubber conduit behind the glovebox (RHD cars) that comes out on the engine firewall, behind the battery, right at the back. Battery needs to come out to reach back there. U'll also need a coat metal hanger that u can straighten up to poke the wire through the conduit. I'll c if I can find the pics for it.

Thanks - and apologies, both at the same time. I didn't notice Expatman's post but have now seen it and taken notice of it. Very pertinent advice. Especialyy given the violent nature of the way one of my earlier cars was taken from me. I think I've spoken of it. Regarding the note from Paul, above .... yes, thanks for that. In fact I have recently had a personal message from another contributor, to whom I've replied, thanking him for his suggestion..... which was extremely similar to your's, Paul, concerning the possibility of some sort of "leg lift". Since receiving the suggestion I've formed one from one of my trouser belts. It's simply a leather type belt which at one end is formed (riveted) into a loop of sufficient size to get a shoe through (and with a small piece of leather riveted at the point where the join is in order to hold the loop "open" somewhat.) ---- and at the other end of the belt I've moved (riveted) the buckle part-way along the belt and used it to form another (adjustable) loop which the Mrs. can use as a handle to grasp the thing. It seems to work just fine and she will try it out a few more times before we decide whether go to the expense of a replacement car. It might not now be needed. I suppose, as has been pointed out, there will come a time when the Yeti has to go, but maybe it's a good idea to hang on to it if she can get by with the leg lifter. There is this dichotomy whereby I still like the car being higher from the ground but where she now finds that to be a problem and maybe the time will come when something happens to resolve it. But I hadn't thought of the leg lifter idea so thanks all round, fellas. By the way "Dichotomy" is word of ther day. 🙂

My reading of your post is that both you and your wife will be sad to see the Yeti go - and having owned mine since 2013 I can well understand why. I'm now familiar with the sill height issue - my wife, who also has a problem with her back, can only just clear the sill and a friend who frequently travels with us once seated has to lift her leg for her foot to clear the sill. Whilst I'm not yet at the point of considering parting with the Yeti I have been interested in the problems you have been having in finding a suitable replacement. And this lead me to wonder whether it is solely the accessing issue or whether there are other reasons that for you mean it may be the time to make the change; after all with a 15 year old car that day will come. For me when considering a change the sill height will I'm sure be a consideration but also the driving position - the high seats makes getting in and out easy - and the comfort of the seats; I've had cars where after an hour or so a break has been essential to relieve back pain. All of this leads me to wonder whether, if it suited you, there would be a way to practically address you wife's problem so you could delay making a decision and see if anything else comes on the market that meets your needs. At the risk of seeming to have finally lost the plot (and some would say that ship sailed some time ago) would a low step help your wife in (and out?) of the car, something that could be easily stowed in the boot or behind the seat? The other possibility that occurred to me, watching my friend lifting her leg to swing her foot into the car (she doesn't seem to have a problem getting out) would be some sort of strop that would help your wife lift her foot without putting unnecessary strain on her back. Again, at the risk of being considered "different", these are made as dog tugs but the larger sizes could be wide enough to easily get a foot in and out and long enough without having to bend and hurt her back whilst helping to lift the foot. Realistically a new car may be the only option but perhaps something to think about even to help over the next couple of months or so whilst waiting for the replacement car - they are around £5-£10 in the usual places. If you do move on from the Yeti I'll be sorry to see you go but then on the positive side I'll be one step closer to being the longest serving member on this forum still with his original Yeti.

Most people don't know their engine code. That usually doesn't affect their lives too much, but when asking questions of a technical nature on a car forum it can be very a useful thing to be able to mention. Why? It gives a more specific, precise definition of the engine in question than any other description you might otherwise use. Why is that important? 1. Information in parts catalogues, particularly for anything even slightly engine related, is often different depending on which engine code is being looked for. 2. Information (relating to the engine at least) in factory wiring diagrams is split up into sections by engine code. If you don't know the engine code, there might be a number of different diagrams with significant differences which could lead you astray if you pick the wrong one. 3. Questions concerning diagnosis of a fault should often vary depending on the engine code. If you have a 1.2 litre 3-cylinder petrol engine for example, it might have an EGR valve if it has certain engine codes, and not if it has others. It is very likely to even have a different number of camshafts and valves depending on which code. EGR faults are very rare on cars that don't have one! 4. If you know your engine code, you can put it into ebay as a search term (e.g. "AZQ engine") and you will see listings of ones for sale. These can be very useful for finding things on the engine or working out how to get to them, as they often include good photos from several angles of engines on pallets, with varying numbers of ancillary items fitted. Much easier to see what's what than from more or less any angle while the engine is in the engine bay. How and where can I find this code? On cars up until about 2018, there tended to be a paper sticker on the boot floor, often near the spare wheel well. Duplicate could often found at the front of the service book. That includes a certain amount of info about the vehicle, including engine (and gearbox) codes, paint code, all sorts. Example (engine code in red square, gearbox code in blue): Many cars also have a barcode sticker on the upper cambelt cover, like this one: The engine code is the letters (in yellow box) just ahead of the engine number: See also Nige's reply below about finding the engine code on your V5c. Letters ahead of the engine number. Consider adding this engine code to any info you may have already put in your profile and or signature, and keep it updated if you change cars.

what's been done? I've been told there is a reset possible. But it can only be done with all four wheels in the air. Have the dampers been changed? If not, why not?

Sorry about the long post. I have a 2022 model year 2.0 TSI 4x4 equipped with DCC. I have been facing a strange but a crippling problem with my Kodiaq from day one. The DCC often puts all fours dampers into what I call "Zero damping mode". All 4 Shock absorbers offer absolutely no damping at all when that happens. Suspension makes loud metallic noise while going over even minor undulations and expansion joints and both alloys and tires get damaged and subsequently develop severe wobbling. It feels like sitting on a stone that's hurtling down the road. I have taken the car to multiple Skoda dealers several times. Everything appear normal when they take the TD but I hit the problem randomly on my daily drives. My car has chewed up about 22 tires and 18 alloys in the past 3 years and 30k miles. I was clueless about what triggers the problem. However, over time I observed a pattern. The problem doesn't occur if I follow a certain sequence when I start the car. The sequence that works - Unlock the car, open driver's door, get in, close the door, wait for L&K animation on instrument cluster to complete, wait for about 4 more seconds and then start the car. Sequences that trigger the problem (almost always): 1) Start the car before L&K animation completes 2) Unlock the door, get into the car and let the animation to complete but start the engine only after instrument cluster turns off (it turns off after few minutes if the car is not started) 3) Unlock the door, open and close. That will trigger L&K animation. Then quickly open the door while the animation is in progress. Close the door after the animation completes and start the engine 4) Park the car after a drive, turn off the engine and wait for a few minutes but don't open any doors. Instrument cluster will turn off after a few minutes. Now start the engine. The only way to prevent and recover DCC from bad state - Turn off the engine, get out, close all doors, lock doors, wait for instrument cluster to turn off, open the door, get in, close the door, wait for animation to complete and then start. Another interesting observation is that changing DCC modes will have no impact on damping force once DCC goes into the bad state. Also, how stiff suspension feels depends on how soon I start after the L&K Animation completes. Waiting for about 4 to 5 seconds after the animation seem to properly initialize DCC. I am soon going back to the dealer armed with my observations. I have also conveyed my observations to Skoda Customer care. I think some HW or SW issue is preventing DCC from being initialized properly under some scenarios. I read lot of complaints about DCC equipped VW and Skoda cars on online forums. Has anyone experienced similar problems. Also, any guesses on what could be the underlying problem? Thanks