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All RS Octavia’s are petrol now. Mine didn’t die dead but the battery was replaced when it was a few months old. The symptoms were weird errors at startup related to various ADAS features that went away after a few minutes driving and the stop start system not working. The dealer said it is not that uncommon to just have a bad battery from new. Modern cars with so many systems out put a lot of load on batteries.

Still on the original battery just short of 11 years old.

Thanks very much for the input all. I considered it carefully and decided the budget wouldn't stretch far enough for a reasonable chance at a fair DSG equiped Superb. I've took a 2.0 TDI SE Business out for a test drive today and put a deposit down within five minutes of getting back. Happy with my decision.

Simple test - Is your gear selector a stalk to the left of the steering wheel? If so then this is the right forum. If the gear selector is in the centre console you have a Mk 3 Superb and you need to ask in the associated forum.

They replaced the battery

An uncoded battery does not trigger an error in the speedometer. In my case, the error is not a basic setting, but always a poorly reset service or oil change interval.

Hello, New map data available ECE 2026 - version 26.2.

You'd be best checking and cross-referencing answers with other Karoq 4x4 owners, a good specialist tyre fitting place, VWŠkoda (somehow). My thoughts might be wrong so need checking, but @Carlston might know better. It might depend on how old and worn tread the other three tyres are compared to the new fresh replacement. If part-time 4x4 then generally it might be at worse changing both tyres on the axle with the tyre that needs replacement, or if the unaffected tyre on that axle isn't very old and not much tread wear, and wear even across the tread, then perhaps only the one tyre is needed. Permanent 4x4 would be get away with one or need all four, I'd guess. But if you really need the 4x4 facility, if only occasionally, you might be better not risking anything on your wife's car and fitting four new fresh tyres rather than you getting the blame if changing only one or two tyres and then your wife had issues using the 4x4, or lend her the Subaru and you wade through with the Karoq.

So true!

Did you try clearing the codes to see if that helps? Sometimes with these glitches, a fault is triggered which can dictate the way the car behaves. If it is just down to a glitch though, simply clearing the code/s can bring the car back to life. If you have already cleared them and they've returned, then it's possible you need to do further investigation obviously

That may be the reason for higher pressure, but I don't think it's the cause of overheating. Did it help? I've got one more idea to test out.. bridge the connector on the radiator fan, so it runs constantly. It probably won't be enough to keep the engine cool while running, but if it does something, it may suggest some issue with airflow.

Since I was lazy enough to manually upload, today the car get 26.2 via OTA

It's not so much the price of the parts, but the labour involved. I've thrown about £3k at mine so far and it's still not working correctly. Signs to look out for are slow slippery shifting ( as though you're riding the clutch on a manual eg revs rise during shifts) particularly when warmed up, any noticeable thump between gear shifting ( it should be almost imperceptible ). Any of the above walk away, do not pass go, do not collect £200.

Hello Nigel, pleased to meet you Yes, thanks for reminding me, I have a 2016 White Octavia 3 wagon with a 1.6TDI and a DSG, SEL spec with the 17" alloys A nice one owner car that I bought off of a married couple of solicitors in Surrey ! It has been very well looked after. Thanks again Chris

I'm in a meeting in Brussels where this is being discussed right now! The EU Commission is putting something in place to ensure continued operation of the e-call systems on older cars, after the 2/3g netowork is shut down.

https://ebay.us/m/SKrk59 This worked for me, just need some crimps and a bag of bullet connectors and maybe a small trim tool and and a few hours.

Message me with VIN after 5 and I can check.

I have installed Goodridge and EBC parts and i have bought from UK shops plus ebay.co.uk ana amazon.co.uk many products related to car and not only. No problems at all.

thanks for the tip @travs but as the car is daily and TDI this upgrade is mainy due to some extra stopping power in critical situations, so I will use regular ATE ceramic pads. I also did OEM bigger brakes on my previsous Octavia MK2 where I used brakes from 3,6 Superb

Ah, so that's why I was asked to log into Skoda Connect again this morning, I hadn't been driving the car a while so thought my wife had done something. When I logged in as main driver it brought back some settings but not my radio favourites and the likes and I was prompted to go through the rescan setup again.

4mm cable for earth reckon is too small. Think main battery is 10mm or more and starter is at least 6mm. If a new battery doesn't cure it it may be the starter itself. Used to be able to get them checked at a local autosparky as he had a machine to simulate starting load and was an expert at rebuilding them but alas he has retired. Doubt anyone checks them anymore. Hope the new battery cures it. Alasdair

I found it in the settings on carscanner so have changed it to 2500 which I assume is 2.5seconds if it’s in ms Also shortened the duration of each wash slightly.

I don’t think you missed out. The fact you’re posting on here about your hesitation says it all! As above, that car has covered around 4,000 miles a year. That’s not great, as it points to frequent short trips - all of which put strain on mechanical components. If you get the feeling the car hasn’t had DSG or Haldex work done recently, it’s only another reason to avoid. Plenty more fish in the sea!

Meh - then it wasn't meant to be. Could have been a dog, could have been a gem. Either way, tomorrow's another day.

Hi, This a picture of how i have the thermostat housing piped up on my 1.6 AEE engine. What I will say that I've forgotten to add previously is the car is OK around the streets on the estate as there's a lot of stop start at junctions. but as soon as I get on a long road the temp will gradually build up and within 5 minutes will sit at the 100 degree mark as previously pictured.

Avoid the DSG7 unless it is 100% perfect. It should seemless, if not walk away immediatly. A few DSG oil changes would also be of benefit even though they are not scheduled.

Thanks everyone for your helpful replies. I shall get the battery checked out as soon as possible. @nta16 In the last 10 yeaers I've not had any need to charge the battery other than run the engine on a journey.

If your battery is in fact the original factory-fitted one, it has done very well - there is often a date code stamped onto the top of the battery negative post giving date of manufacture (format is WW,YY) that will confirm battery age. Consider having the battery load-tested before replacement and base your decision on that.

If you planning on updated pads, leave the rears standard. I have DS2500 all round and the rears pads squeal as I don’t brake hard enough often enough. I have to brake late and hard. Thinking of swapping rear pads back to standard which will be a real waste but I’m just not using them. The 310mm are just a little too big for the 340mm front.

It does run with the ignition off for about 30 seconds the stops and runs again for about 5-10 seconds

That is the switch to turn interior light on/off when you open a door. In the picture the function is set to off , the lights do not light up when you open a door.

For all you guys that are really tired of this crappy bass and want to fix it permanently without adding anything else like DSP and Amps+Helix AAC+(or other alternatives) get the Audi 80A035382A and retrofit it into the spare wheel cutting the foam if you have storage space or adding it if you have a spare wheel. What you need to do it OE Style is: 1. Audi 80A035382A* take care for the code because 80A035382(Without the A) is on 40W and 2Ohm single channel 2. Skoda 5E5867427P for replacing the empty space after the removal of the Canton Sub Box 3. 191972714 Female plug (You plug the male connector that goes now into your Canton Sub) 4. 7n0972704 Male connector plug (That goes into the B&O Subwoofer). Take care of the pinout to keep the phase correct and enjoy the bass that should have been there from the start. I also suggest to add some sound insulation in and on/around the subwoofer box. This will remove the rattling and plastic resonance sound and make the deeper frequencies clearer. Enjoy!

Hello anyone who is getting updates to this post - The problem is now resolved with the dashcam connected to an "ignition on" fuse in the fusebox, actually number 55 which is shown as Not Used in the handbook and indeed was empty in my fusebox. I must have been having a REALLY bad day when I could not make it go to plan earlier this week. All I can think of is that my CPU overheated in the warm weather and started doing weird things when trying to find a NOT permanently live feed. A bit cooler today and a really simple job (that I supposedly had done earlier this week) to find a (preferably) empty fuse holder that was not live when ignition off. Anyway, job all done and again, thanks to the people who replied and maybe others who thought about it but did not respond. My fault entirely. Regards, Frank

For 7 euro plus tax you can get an hour of access to erWin Skoda, the online official information resource. Circuit diagrams are amongst many of the pdfs you can download. Fuse tables are at the end of such docs. Not all countries allow access to this, I think Australia is one that doesn't.

This bit that I've surrounded in red is just velcro'd and clipped in, if you stuck your fingers in the gap/join at the top you can gently remove it and take a look. Failing anything behind that, it's a giant pain in the arse to get the other bits out so you'd be best to just get a new card.

Hi my car is on nav 25.12 before my ota sub expired Is this the same version