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Hello there. Freshly downloaded. Take a piece if you need ;) https://1drv.ms/f/c/d868f7f8e8ece8e8/Eh7N58_7gyZCtogSIt8kgisB4ZszuIGLrZTSSsdabNOtZw?e=5mWfuG

Tere 😀 look to B6, part codes you will find in links of my signature

Thanks. Yes located the fuse ( on the M4 to Bristol yesterday because the wipers were driving me mad) There's another fuse listed as being for the sensor but removing that didn't seem to have any effect (and I think I've eliminated the sensor as a cause now anyway). Will give it a try this weekend.

Hi all! Been a while! So the car failed its MoT: Driver's side tie rod end, no idea what's happened, but looks like rusty remains of whatever was trying to keep the rubber boot in place has long gone, leaving the boot unable to do its job. So off to scour the interwebs for replacements. Got a pair of Meyle HD's from eBay for £33.81. Parts 116 020 0025/HD and 116 020 0026/HD. As is typical, this was all on the Thursday on the run up to the Bank Holiday weekend, so essentially had to wait until yesterday before they arrived. Decided to sneak out of work for a bit to try and tackle this. Original intent was to at least get the wheel off to see if the locknut would come free. Kinda lucked out: Gave it a quick wirebrush and PlusGas, then got a 24mm spanner and gave it a grunt. Magically, it came loose! Only a tiny amount, sure, but that's all that's needed. Buzzed off the nut on the other end, gave the hub a few whacks with the lump hammer which resulted in the old tie rod end popping out, and then just replaced with the new one. Was 22 turns off, and 22 turns back on, so probably straight enough! Be ready for a retest tomorrow. Annoyingly, I was intending to replace bits of the front suspension over the next few months, as I've been stockpiling some random bits as and when I saw a good deal on them, in addition to a few upgrades I might do if I can feel I can them done quicker. Not much drama otherwise, other than perhaps some rear wheel arch rust starting to come through. That might put a scupper on long term plans unless I say start to learn welding or something. Regardless, very happy the tie rod end swap took about 45 minutes, rather than the potential drama when that locknut doesn't want to budge. Maintenance: £3120.24 (+£33.81) Upgrades: £4617.27 Miscellaneous: £827.47

I certainly hope so 🤞 Incidentally I was surprised to see how small my XJ looks next to it's EV successor⚡

Nope, and at this stage I doubt it ever will.

Thanks for the advice guys! I ordered those 864S and they have arrived. I will try and put them on now :-)

I would begin with the aftermarket immobiliser. Often they are hateful little things and sometimes incorrectly installed. But I see your Zeder is just a mechanical device so cannot be part of your issue except for the buzzer. Try disconnecting that. Then my first step would be the correction of your faulty steering wheel. Your parasitic draw suggestion is the right one. But it seems to be intermittent. As far as aftermarket GPS trackers are concerned, you should be looking for any extra wires or piggyback connectors. Easy to say, hard to do. Favourite locations for these would be the fuse and relay blocks. Good luck.

It's possible but it requires unit to be patched first, also the metainfo2.txt file must be modified. Is it worth? There are no new features, just new skins.

I can see I sent you link to SEAT version instead of SKODA, sorry. have just resent the right one MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T. Of course you can upgrade to , you entered your train incorrectly (MST2_EU_SK_ZRP0245T, the right one is MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0245T):

Hello everybody i just stoped by to say hello!

Thanks @Daveo138. Will try the "whack" method, and maybe an update while on the phone, and will report back.

It seems you are not alone. This thread is from a couple of weeks ago.

I would also wire brush the flaking metal and use a proprietary rust converter like FERTAN, primes and then spray with chassis black. If you live near the coast you need to keep on top of it; a neighbour bought a Honda Civic from someone in Brighton that on the face of it looked nice. Wasn't till he had it MOT'd that he found it was rotten underneath.

Get your M.Meter, change the positive lead to the 10A port, switch the selector switch to 10A. Disconnect the battery negative lead, clamp the positive M.Meter lead to the battery negative lead and the negative M.Meter lead to the (negative) battery post, you can now read off the battery draw down under various conditions, suggest you do it first with the car unlocked then with the car locked, allow ~ 5/10 minutes for each test, you can then remove various fuses to help track down the problem. Ensure you change the M.Meter lead back to its normal position and the selector switch to Off when finished.

Took a wheel off to test fit the new black centre caps. Non OEM so expected they would need some fettling. Nothing a few rounds of insulation tape on the back side won’t fix. First time using positioning pins for installing the wheels. What a game changer! I also ordered a 1/2” drive adaptor for my drill as I don’t own an impact. That’s a revelation too. Very useful for running nuts in once started by hand, and out and also operating scissor jack. Effortless to lift the car

I think not, those are the ones that hold the tray under the engine that I took off for oil change

+1 There’s plenty of these cars out there. If you have a bad feeling, or lots of issues, that’s enough. It sounds like it hasn’t been looked after very well, and it hasn’t been prepped for sale. I would get your money back and give it to another Skoda garage. If it’s the right car for you then don’t be dissuaded - my 245 quite literally hasn’t put a foot wrong! Some cars are just lemons.

Figured it out. Found a useful video on YouTube for the Mk8 Golf door which has a similar set up. If you push the left hand screw nearest the outer door edge towards the hinges it moves the lock cylinder across a few millimetres and it will slide out. I used the torx bit used to undo the screw. Simple when you know how.

Made it, everything came off after removing the screws :)

You are not siphoning out so just think how you fill at a petrol station. Long tube like gun into the filler hole. So use a long funnel. ( If you were siphoning, Long Funnel and put the Siphoning tube down that.)

You should have seen the response to a post last year on “acceptable levels of cracking in tyres” or something. One person hasn’t been back since 😂