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Hi guys, I'm an old boyracer living in Coventry who back in the day had a 306 GTi6, a BMW 540i and then a Megane 225 before spending the last 6 years driving a diesel Mondeo but now I've taken the plunge and bought a 2015 Octavia VRS which has put a smile back on my face (even thought I am tending to drive it in eco most of the time). As someone who was a teenager in the 80's I am still finding the S word problematic when I talk about the car, hopefully will pass soon though most people these days don't remember those days where the worst social faux pas was that your parents drove a Skoda (mine didnt, but I regularly reeled off all the jokes to another kid at school whos mum had a Favorit) Just going through the process of fitting a dashcam and found that lovely quirk that the cigarette lighter power stays on all the time, so using the forums to help me hard wire to the fuse box to avoid running the battery flat.

This is the exact thread I wish I found sooner! I have the exact same issue on a 1.5tsi mild hybrid Kodiaq Sportline. On top of the already “extremely sensitive” emergency brake which is a danger in itself, the jerky brakes are very distracting to the point of not having any confidence in the car braking correctly. I’ve brought it back to the dealer and they too told me it’s the characteristics of the car…. An they applied an “update” to the car. Honestly don’t like driving this car… and to add this is my 4th Kodiaq so I’m used to driving this model since 2018.

It looks something like this.

AIUI, when a phone is connected to CarPlay or Android Auto they use the car GPS antenna not the phone’s own. There are several folk on here who have replaced their car antenna to fix the location error in their cars (I think it’s a VW group wide problem). So, it could be that it’s the same issue for you - a faulty car antenna giving the error. As for coding any changes (nice idea by the way) I don’t have a clue, sorry.

Ok, thank you for the replies, I shall try the procedure a few more times!

Going to a Skoda dealership's workshop to sort this out is the only way that you might get any help money wise from Skoda. So really the choice is yours to make, try to get it sorted out FOC via warranty at a Skoda workshop and hope not get hit with lots of "out of scope" extra costs, or take it to a proper car HVAC specialist and get it sorted and maybe maybe end up paying less. Life can be a bit of a gamble at times.

No but I do know that my 280 six speed sits at 2500rpm at 70mph and is an expensive jaunt when you are on French toll roads at 85 so the gearing of the seven would make it slightly more economical and a little less tiring but it really doesn’t matter now as the one I was looking at is the same as mine anyway. I can pick up a 2019 E Class diesel up for 9k with 130k and full Mercedes history and when I am seeing them with 250000 miles at the same age they are pretty durable. That ex Met police tsi 4x4 just piqued my interest but the water has passed under the bridge now so I’ll continue my search. My 280 is going nowhere, it’ll just get a well earned rest for a few weeks

Hello, good to meet you all. I've been using the forum for a few years with my Octavia Greenline and now my Superb L&K, very useful resource. Glad to finally make an account!

Hi and welcome (finally!) to Briskoda 👋

Fantastic thanks Comprehensive reply 🙂

Last week, while using my wife’s 2015 VW Polo and having American relatives in the back seat, my cousin’s husband had opened the RHS rear window (hot day, car’s AC has lost its gas), then started muttering about his window doing this! Me fearing the worst, thought “great we’ll need to use my car when going out tomorrow”! Anyway after the doom and glow faded away, I used the switch on my (driver’s) door and held the window switch up for a while - success! That guy was not wanting to open that window again but next time it was okay, but failed the following time. I hadn’t thought about stiffness through lack of use, I’ll try using some nylon etc lub!

Yep to be honest I have had enough of it, my wife's Nissan gets no software glitches. I am not sure to book it in or wait a few days to see if it clears.

Menuesteuerung_Spiegelabsenkung:active Spiegelabsenkung_bei_Rueckwaertsfahrt:active Control Unit 9

if u dont see in the radio ill suggest to take it someone with obdeleven with pro sub or odis to add it to radio

You're right, I can see food prices rising almost weekly and the official inflation figures are only meaningful if people are actually buying all of the things in the basket being used for the sample set.

I’m fine with the gearing on mine for normal use and trips in the UK but 1000 miles through France can get a little tedious, I have to set the screen so I can’t see mpg and sheepishly look when we’ve returned home. I’ve now bought a 16 plate E Class for both journeys and will move it on when it has served its purpose

Hi, the factory says to bleed the system with 2 bar pressure min to avoid issues. Then use a diagnostic tool to bleed the ABS hydraulics. I can give you some info to help visualise why you have not completely lost braking even though it feels like it: The reservoir is divided internally into three chambers, all of which use the same fluid until below the half way mark which will bring on the low fluid level indicator on the dash. As the leaking circuit continues to loose fluid due to blown cylinder seals, it's chamber will empty but fluid is maintained in the good circuit chamber hence you will still have some diagonal braking. Automatics will have the three chambers too, but the clutch one will be sealed off at the exit tube. The reason for compartmentalising the reservoir is to provide an emergency backup should a circuit fail as in your case. You will still have normal braking on one diagonal split which provides emergency braking. In your case the NSR and the OSF will still have a sound circuit, but you will have lost your OSR and NSF circuit. If you have a manual transmission, and the clutch circuit has sprung a leak, the fluid in the whole reservoir will drop to half way, then continue to empty the clutch chamber, but the two brake circuits will be protected from losing fluid from their chambers. Prob won't help you much as you need a pressure bleed by sound of it once the shoes and cylinder have been replaced. Adobe Express 2026-06-03 16.11.43.mp4 Did my daughters yesterday. Once pressure bled and less than 1/3 pedal travel confirmed, you use diagnostic tool to bleed the ABS. Both fronts then both rears at same time following GFF on VAS PC V19 until the end of the test.

I'd say the quoted symptom points me to the direction that the sensor ring was damaged. I'd check the sensor ring. If it's damaged, I'd stick the old ABS sensor back and replace the hub. If the ring is fine, then the problem is obviously somewhere else.

Hi, do you know anyone with an OBDeleven? The "Advanced Live Data" has some useful information, especially 'Refrigerant Pressure', which could indicate refrigerant loss (There's a temperature/ pressure table on page 17 of the manual provided by Arkaig here) Here's a screenshot from my car, which has manual AC:

Hi everyone! My name is Ioana and I recently found you, thank you in advance for all your responses. Have a great day!

Funnily enough, the 220tsi with dq250 6 speed has longer gearing. I don't mind my 280 6 speeder at 80-85. But agree lower rpm would be better.

Offset looks soo much better. Nice work

Sounds like a great price for electric. My quote doesn't say, so I'll assume it's non electrical operated but 🙏

Hello I'm seriously considering getting this Skoda Elroq 210kW 85 Edition 82kWh 5dr Auto - 2026 (75) from a main dealer with 3,960 miles. This would be my first EV, is it a good choice as a starter vehicle? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks

I have an Elroq edition 85 on a 75 plate. So sounds similar (except we bought new because of a 0% PCP offer). It wasn't our first EV we'd had one for almost three years. I can't see anything with the Elroq that means it's not ideal as an introduction to EVs. There's a fair bit of technology, and many things are controlled by the big central display, and via an app. That's normal for most modern cars though. There are much worse out there where EVERYTHING is done via the touchscreen. For me the Elroq gets the balance right. So, some questions to ask yourself. But the most important one is how do you intend to charge it? Do you have, or are planning to get a charger installed? Or even better, free charging at work? If neither then you either need a granny charger. This plugs into a 13A socket, but is slow (hence a granny charger) and sockets don't cope with the load, over prolonged use. The other alternative is public charging. This varies in price and speed, but can work out relatively expensive if you use just that. Test drive it though. And watch your right foot. It's like a rocket ship. Other than that, I'd have no hesitation. After all I have one.

Part was made in Spain! HTH. Thanks. AG Falco

The issue is if on Flexible / variable servicing and Oil Service is at 24 months / 18,000 -20,000 miles and Inspection service has not been set to match. First at the PDI. Or since.

Its a no-brainer in my opinion, I would return it to a dealer to grt it sorted as its still got its warranty.

You have probably misdiagnosed the issue. The Octavia mk4 has know issue with ABS sensor rings disintegrating on the rear wheel hubs. So check the integrity of the ABS ring.

There can be many reasons why a car AC system has lost its fridge gas, from stone strike to the exposed front condenser to poor build quality of the evaporator which is inside the dashboard are - or even failure of the system pressure sensor - VW Group have a long history of revising this part to improve it, though I'd think that pressure sensor failure/leaking is more of an industry wide issue than just VW Group. Guessing is really not the way forward, your car's AC system needs to get checked over by a proper car HVAC operator - then repaired as necessary. Getting your local Skoda workshop to do this is one way to maybe benefit from your warranty covering the costs - but maybe not the best plan for a quick and proper fix.

Before anything else, check the 12v battery condition. Even a slight drop in voltage can cause a variety of intermittent electrical gremlins in these cars.

Well, Chaps... I celebrated a hollow victory tonight... I was busy high fiving myself after managing to crack both jam nuts and install the new TREs. Got everything reassembled. Drove the car and it lit up like a Christmas tree. Things to note: Battery has been flat for a week. Dead. Started with jump starter gizmo, which started car right away. When you turn it off, it's stone dead again. Currently charging on repair mode. Apparently, the power steering pump can fail to engage if the battery is low. Forgot to tighten master cylinder cap when I got on the move. Balls up on my part. Three lights on. ABS, Power Steering, Brake Light/Fluid (Flashing Red). 3 beeps for good measure. Fluid level is fine. Ancel threw up front right speed sensor code. Torture!