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If you read this thread carefully you will note the issue reported is with the EVO2 engine in manual, it is an issue across the VW range. Neither of the cars you have had had a manual EVO2 engine. You don’t have a clue what you are talking about.

Thank you to cnc and Aldfort for your replies. I'm contacting the main dealer tomorrow. According to Skoda Assist the odd gears and even gears are controlled by two separate electronic systems, which perhaps explains that after switching off/on it goes back to normal, like rebooting your computer. I was interested to hear if any other owners had experienced this. Apart from this, I really like my Kamiq. I'll report here on progress in due course.

I would go to the Skoda dealer who fixed it the first time, Skoda give a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty on all work carried out, and in this case, assuming it is the same problem and you are withing the time/mileage limitations, they should fix it again.

Yeah! I noticed the top of the paddle would kiss the stalk sometimes but didn’t expect quite such a situation! I loved how they looked and if I could confidently get ones slightly shorter then I probably would. But I definitely don’t want to repeat that occurrence!

I'd contact Skoda directly. All of your reported issues should form part of the vehicle service history.

I usually top up with already mixed - you buy concentrate and distilled water and do it yourself. Not knowing much of the type on mine, since it had the years and mileage I went for a full coolant flush and replacement, so now I have no dilemma about what it goes in there (G12 evo in mycase). Easier! To spot water pump leaking I think you need to access from below.

One is the reversable boot floor, carpet one side and a sort of plastic the other. Both items are in great condition too Second is a rear sun screen, it's a mesh material in a metal frame that you clip inside the hatch window, it keeps out a ton of heat and you can take it out for winter, you can't see into the car also. My 280 had tinted side windows but the rear glass was not done. Both are huge and would be prohibitively awkward to post. If you want either you WILL need to come to Swindon. They are free, of course a donation of draught Guinness tins are always welcome 😇, but no charge for a cuppa or coffee. I'd rather someone make use of them than just throw them I assume you can message me on here for details

This might be just a coincidence. But I have just had a new windscreen fitted following a rock being thrown up by a lorry's wheels hitting it, which left a small chip, which after a few days became a long crack and was growing. The screen was replaced last week, and yesterday I discovered the seat was not responding to the controls. I cannot see any fuse listed in the owner's manual which states it supplies power to the seats. The driver's seat is working as usual, which made me think it must be fuse-related, but the fuse chart makes zero reference to any fuses. Any ideas? Edit. Update I think that they must have done something when they fitted the windscreen, just went to go out in the car and the battery is dead flat, highly unlikely to the battery as it was a brand new fitted 16th Sept 2025. Since it was fitted last Wednesday it has been out on a some decent runs, 2 were 30 mile nonstop round trips, and another was a trip of 160 miles on Friday, no warning lights on or any issues other than the passenger seat inoperable. Now charging the battery, this is not good news. I'm supposed to be taking my wife and sister-in-law to Stansted airport tomorrow to their flight.

@Warrior193 It presses down, moves left but doesn't go any further, so stops at the gate is a far description. @BlueWagon I can select 1st to 4th, but not reverse, with the engine off. I've got a new battery so I'll know more tomorrow. If i can push it back so I can get underneath, and find the shifter on the box. Thanks both for your help so far. Cheers.

It's a dual filament bulb. If you rotate it by 180°, you just swap broken brake and tail light filaments. The problem is,that brake is 21W and light is 5W. It shouldn't be possible to swap it like that without significant effort.

It happened on my car afew weeks ago when I attempted to enter the drivers side door.I could only open the door a couple of inches as the umbrella had partially opened.Entered via the passenger door and found it extended past the b pillar. So it could do this in an accident and stop the driver getting out. Clearly not thought about during the design!

Thanks cnc. I've followed your link. Interesting reading and I'm obviously not alone.

You are right to be concerned. Car needs a full diagnostic and read of all fault codes by somebody who fully understands what they are looking at. TBH a DSG specialist might be a better bet for diagnosis.

We had a 1.5 manual for 8 years and never had this problem. We now have a new 1.5 with the DSG box. It's fine too. Only reason I can see for folks having problems is incorrect gear selection.

It’s the torque that puts a smile on my face on the diesels. The Fab just pulls really well. I do find it very noisy in the cabin and it has quite a firming ride, as it should. I do want to go faster in it for sure. The space is small inside for the family plus there are no mod cons Bluetooth, cruise both could be sorted easily but left it standard for now. In the 280 I wish it had some of that push you back shove. You do go fast without realising it as it’s very quiet. I have become more calmer in that 280 just set the ACC on my journeys and let it do its thing. Remember it is an L&K estate maybe what it was made for 🤔

Do you mean the stick won't move into the right position for 5th and Rev? Maybe a wasp or rat nest blocking the shifter on the box. Have a look while someone moves the stick inside. Maybe a bit of wd40 on selection cables too

Can you select these gears with engine off? Maybe clutch just a bit gummy so won't let you push into the gear. Maybe ride the clutch a bit to clean up the plates

I would and certainly do on any car I have the clutch out of. Also replace spigot bearing and thrust bearing

That’s really nice! I left a note by the cabin filter in my previous car that was returned to a main dealer, warning a new owner of the crash damage, as well as the people involved at the dealership. Always check a new car, even if it’s from somewhere reputable. In this case though, it sounds like the buyer will be getting a well-loved car. Wish you all the best with the Tiguan, and hope to see you around - it is, after all, a Karoq!

Well today I removed the up shift paddle extension in quite a dramatic fashion. It would appear that the windscreen wiper stalk when pulled to wash the windows is closer to the wheel that the top of the paddle extension. So if you wash the windows during a right turn, the paddle extension hooks behind the stalk and you can’t turn left or stop washing the windscreen! Luckily it was down a relatively wide and quiet country lane. And the 3M tape gave way just at the moment I had realised what had happened. Unfortunately the wife was in the car so I got somewhat of an ear bashing and a few “I told you so” about buying cheap parts from AliExpress! Safe to say the other extension will be removed in due course and I shall return to OEM paddles only!

Hi Warrior193. Thanks for your message. I've updated my profile :) The vehicle does move forward in first and I've tried that and then tried to find reverse. The gearstick does depress but doesn't connect to reverse. I also notice that it doesn't select 5th either.

Quote 'Skoda mechanic says he doesn't hear compressor starting' is a little concerning - the A/C compressor does not 'start' because it is permanently driven unless the drive shear plate has failed. I'd take a close look at what was done during the changes to the climatronic panel.

Clean diesel fuel on its own should be sufficient to keep the pump lubricated.

Ordered these ones. Thanks for the help VehicleClipsVordere und hintere Türkarten- und Innenverkleidungsclips...Diese weißen Clips verfügen über eine integrierte Gummidichtung, die in den Clip eingegossen ist. Diese Art der Formung ist schwieriger als andere und macht es umso wichtiger, qualitativ hochwertige C

I believe the lower spec Kamiq doesn’t have rear speakers fitted, so won’t have the fade option on screen. What model do you have?

Bought myself a steel wheel. Flat Bottom, Perforated, Heated, View Button, DSG Paddles. 3V0419091AF BGW

A sort of photo.. Used AI to give Swmbos car a makeover…

Info for anyone interested when travelling from UK to France, just completed the Eurotunnel crossing. I can confirm that the clock doesn’t change automatically, speed and distance units do not change automatically. You have to change them all manually and don’t forget to manually change the light settings for driving on the right too (although as someone else mentioned I suspect the light settings is more to do with the detection technology rather than light pattern). At least doing it manually I could set speed and distance units to kph and km but leave the fuel consumption units in mpg. Still would prefer it to change automatically though…

In fact, in the UK, the A/C technician is legally obliged to perform a refrigerant leak test before recharging any A/C system.

The 1.9 will also be a wet clutch dsg box. I know as I had one for 7 years :)

It's not a problem if you have a DSG box. It will automatically change down to avoid the revs dropping low enough to cause the stall

y 08 1.9 pdi is dry clutch as far as I know, totally reliable in my case. My view is that reliability depends on the type of use with previous owners. That's a nice looking estate, same colour as mine which I've always liked.

Here’s some shots I took between showers today at Floors Castle. Murdered the processing on a couple , though I quite like it.

Thanks Mike. I got lucky with the light, straight after a rain shower. I’ll try again when the scaffolding is down and use a slow shutter to try and capture the castles reflection in the water. Might frame it then lol.

Glorious this evening............

I don’t suppose this qualifies, but as well as the Octavia, I have the three wheeler…

Hi where are you? you need to do proper volt drops on lives and earths at the abs ecu plug (word 03) to rule out verdigris in the loom from the source causing intermittent connections. Once that has been done, scope the comms to see if it is being pulled up/down or has noise. This can be caused by aftermarket sensors/devices/components which would need to be disconnected one at a time unitl function returns. ONCE these have been ruled out, look at getting the abs ecu tested/repaired. My 5J had a recent ABS issue for the motor (not the same as this issue but!) , I did a volt drop test and although the fuse showed 14.2V at the ecu plug (on Battery Support), when loading the circuit, the voltage at the ecu plug dropped right off. I will see if I can find a picture. This shows me initially checking the negative feed to the ecu plug under load of a test light. For larger drop checking I would use a higher load. The negative of the test light is on the positive battery terminal when testing the first two Terminal 31 pins. The negative of the test light is moved to the negative battery terminal to test the Terminal 30 and 15 positive pins. Negative Test Followed by Positive load test at the ecu plug.mp4 This is a factory breakout box connected to the ABS ECU plug. Each numbered pin corresponds with the pin on the ecu plug. The battery has been removed to gain access should I need to open up the loom to find a high contact resistance. The power is being provided by a 100A VAS battery support unit. Fuse at SA Fuse Box.mp4 The fault was traced to a fault fuse in the SA fuse box. No output at 10a to the ABS 38 pin1 ABS plug at pin 1 or T38a/1. I found a high contact resistance between the fuse leg and the terminal in the fuese box. The fuse link was fine. Voltage Restored to Pin 1 Via 40A Fuse.mp4 Confirming repair. NB volt meter also used when checking under load. Sometimes a much higher load is required, but not in this case.

Well done for persisting with this and not being fobbed off as so many people have been (including me). It is a victory to have got Skoda to admit to the cause of the problem. Let's hope DVSA will recognise it is a real safety issue. Let us know if there is any benefit in getting several people to back up your story to DVSA.

My 2024 Octavia has now been back to the dealer multiple times for this exact issue, most recently for a three-week period of diagnosis and road testing with Skoda technical involved after we rejected the vehicle. Skoda have emailed the dealer to say the issue is caused by the engine ECU shutting down the engine in order to protect the dual mass flywheel when it detects a potential stall condition at low RPM. So it's working as designed and there is no fault. Their official guidance is to modify your driving style to avoid low RPM in higher gears. I have searched through the user manual and on Skoda's website but can find no mention of this. Learner drivers have been taught the "brakes to slow, gears to go" mantra and to use block gear changes for decades (as per DVSA guidance), so for VW Group to tell us otherwise is astonishing. I have kept a detailed log of incidents and I will now be submitting a report to DVSA.

£145 or £245? Typo. Yes £245.00. I didn't know what the 4 x 4 was. Since found out and do not need it. I need to clear the air-bag warning light, there is nothing wrong with the air-bag, I tripped it at the weekend dealing with the instrument cluster. None of the local VCDS members seem to have been around to contact. One of them the only post ever was a request to be added to the list in 2018 (I think). I don't want to be messing about. A local garage wants £60.00 to confirm a fault. Another three faults and I have paid for VCDS. Ten years ago the GPS dongle failed. I took the roof aerial off to fit it but didn't refit it correctly, so this has allowed water ingress in in increasing amounts. This has caused the instrument cluster LED's to fail due to the high moisture content inside the car. The car in 14 years has only done 42K. There is not a lot wrong with it overall. Roof aerial, instrument cluster, brake discs. Other than that an annual service. The last time I worked on a car it was a Ford Cortina either a MK IV or MK V - my mate had a MK IV and I had a MK V. I know from experience I can sort these issues. As I have already spent money ordering parts and lots of tools, ordering VCDS seems like a good idea. I am actually looking forward to getting my hands dirty again. Revisiting my youth. I just wondered if putting my name forward on the map was a viable idea. Thanks for the replies.

It does refer to the vehicles VIN number. Modern VCDS cables come in 3 versions, 1 most expensive for businesses which can be used on any number of vehicles and 2 cheaper aimed at enthusiasts which have a limit (3 or 10) of the number of different vehicles they can be used with. They detect the vehicle by using the VIN that they read from the vehicle electronics, and remember that whenever you make changes to settings - note NOT when you just scan a vehicle or clear fault codes (DTCs). So when you read "2 VINs left" that means they bought a limited version of the cable, and have used it on either 1 or 8 vehicles depending on whether they bought a 3 or 10 VIN limited version. Note that for security reasons previous VINs cannot be cleared or read.