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Last month I bought my second Octavia. I had a black mk3 hatch 1.0 TSI manual, my new one is a mk4 hatch, it's a 1.5 TSI (150 HP), DSG, from the last day of 2023, in Lava Blue. So far I'm loving it!

Guess what I’ll be thinking in 78 miles time… 😂

I know, that’s why I attached the photos! They are of the exact car you are looking at, East Midlands Ambulance Service 3633 - FB19OHP. Hopefully the rear passenger door has been thoroughly cleaned.

Feels like we are getting there with the rebuild, last night we got Injectors back with all new seals Cooling system largely reconnected (There are sooooo many little coolant hoses!!) Charge air cooler refitted with new gaskets Seems so little when you write it down but there was so many little fiddly jobs that just ate up time, back at it again tonight, hopefully get it started today, but we have been saying that for the last 2 days... so maybe, maybe not!

I had issues with this little bast*rd on my previous Octavia 3 pre-FL - also started at around 75k miles(120k kms). Also vibrations under load especially when driving uphill(I was on vacation; fully loaded :D ). The P/N of the latest revision I see is 5Q0 521 307. It was previously 1K0 521 307 A

Ah no, close. My Wife Hates This Car. She's on the fence about the Fabia for the moment based on the last load of cars. But I think if it works out she'll hate it because of the big dent the previous owner put on the front wing. I've never seen an MOT on a car explicitly point out a dented front wing, but my Fabia has that. And I'm kind of loathed to change it because of it. That's a whole other story really. Injectors needed doing, that cost me £1,800 (and that's just parts and me doing it). Air suspension broke and was a PITA to fix. Bit of welding too. It was my dream car really, always wanted one (well I wanted an Amazon but was talked out of it), only way I'd buy one now is if it was cheap and knackered and I had the time to restore it. That's the only way I'd guarantee it to be bomb proof. I think people just buy them and Toyotas in general and take "reliable" to mean "don't need to look after it".

Here's a video of its twin - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73jYDqM6RaQ And potentially it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-Mw3axLEcs I mean... at least you don't have to worry about the DPF.

Maybe... Probably also a nice tax break too??

Common on totally standard Yeti,s with Haldex. Much depends on age rather than miles covered and location location location as in weather, salted roads. Rusty Coupling, also cracking rubber. But often the obvious cracking is not an issue.

I have seen various questions regarding the correct replacement struts for the Yeti, and a few other models as well. I am just replacing the original German made ones on my 2016 Outdoor. There is a lot of 'advice' out there via Amazon & Ebay etc, but most is computer generated and aimed at selling their preferred type. To cut to the chase, I recommend that anyone wanting to replace theirs go to SGS Engineering at Derby, either via the website or pick up the phone - yes they have one! I was able to sort out my correct replacement whilst talking to someone who knew his buisness. They were delivered in 24 hrs. The thing is - they make them here in Britain, give a 2 year guarantee, and mine were half the price from a very popular retailer for German car parts. I am not on commission for SGS, but having bought a 2 ton trolley jack and stands from them a few years ago with similar savings can only highly recommend them.

Sounds like the Renault battery fire suppression, fire fighting is being adopted for other marques of EVs and will be used in Li NMC, LFP and presumably Sodium batteries as they start to become more common. Each iteration of battery chemistry is less prone to thermal runaway as well as being cheaper. Still think inboard fire system might be better to nip in bud. https://www.renault.co.uk/safety/firefighter-technologies.html

Enjoy your new Honda when it comes 🙂

We have great expectations of you Steve, the fate of this thread's essence is in your hands 👍 We know you will succeed, we have faith 🤘 Remember, don't think, do! Victory will be yours, I sense a celebration will be ours 😎 Gaz

Exciting!!! 😎🥳

Great stuff Breezy_Pete. That's just what I need. I've got access to a hydraulic press but I'll get Gen2 tool kit to be on the safe side. Thanks a lot.

Link to RNS510-6276-Update-VIM+Tm_60_35_5 sent in PM

Totally common thing on standard cars. It's a general wear&tear as mentioned by Evolution13

Yeah replacing the sensor resolved all the issues. Think the one I got was from Euro Car Parts.

I had this come up as an advisory (the only one!) on the last MOT and I just got one from ebay. the OG one was quite cracked and the replacement was just a large O-Ring. (the OG one had the groove all the way around it but the new one did not) it doesn't appear to have caused a problem. it closes, it clicks, it seals.) I'd have been livid if I'd been told over £60 to replace that!

Many luxury cars are incredibly low mileage though, tend to spent a lot of time in warm garages and lower spec cars become daily drivers.

@Stonekeeper yes it’s the delay and also the sensitivity of the throttle pedal sensor. I ve read on posts previously that this sensitivity can be adjusted via VAGCOM. We’ve owned 3 different versions of the DSG gearbox: 6 speed DQ250 wet clutch with 2.0 TDI, 7 speed DQ200 dry clutch 1.2 TSI 110 bhp (Fabia) and 7 speed DQ381 2.0 TSI (Karoq). Combination of 6 speed and 2.0 TDI had no perceptible creep delay probably due to diesel low down torque, most noticeable delay is with the Fabia - it’s a smaller engine and it’s a 2015 so DSG and engine software have no doubt been improved since. The 2.0 TSI Karoq, once I mastered the technique, is as good as the 6 speed.

Incredible. Many wonderful luxury vehicles about be them BEV or ICE. Lets see just how they are behaving in a decade or so. Not that those getting them new or nearly new now are likely to have them still in 10 years. If they do have them and had no major expenditure for repairs they could be a real bargain transportation.

Haha, I know what you mean. You don't need to elaborate. If I buy that one, it might get used hard but maybe not that hard as I'm always running late at times. 😉

I take it you have knowledge of the rear passenger door. I'll not ask why unless you want to share the reason ;-) Cheers by the way

Underlining the massive difference in value, spec and performance between Chinese Audi badged big SUV car and European Audi big SUV. Shame not planned to come to UK, yet......... We stuck with very expensive, twice the price, European fossil fuels behemoth and Chinese start of the art car....

Oh, I completely agree. I’d rather buy a car that has had a hard life, but been taken care of, than one seldom used and seldom serviced. Frankly, the only issue with emergency service vehicles is that they are often floored from cold, potentially left idling for a while, and take flight over speed bumps. Police cars are a different story - you won’t find a matching body panel.

That may be the case... But I know from someone who used to service NHS car like this that they are generally very well looked after despite potentially having a hard life... which counts for a lot too.

Lots of money to be made with eye wear or operations. The car collection of David Moulsdale @ the Moulsdale Foundation Museum is well worth a visit. It is in Bishopbriggs Glasgow. There are open days when you might be lucky to get a ticket. David Mousdale's fortune came from Optical Express.

Kendrick. Yes, I realised what happened with the MFD at the service. I've sometimes previously had to reset ACC values following a service, though these days I stick with the default settings. Thanks for warning about brake fluid, but I think the garage testing tests for exactly that - moisture content, but I'll check with them. Most cars I've owned seem to suffer brake pad rattle after a while - Yeti, Saab 9-5, Peugeots - pads rattling inside calipers when driving over broken road surfaces. No plan to change at the moment, as garage said they are OK. Unlike previous cars, Karoq isolates well from external noise & only hear it when windows are open setting off to cool car before aircon gets up & running.

Any sort of emergency vehicle is floored from the moment it is started, be it in summer or winter, left idling for hours and, as has been said, likely to have been messed with. No ex-emergency car is a 'good' buy, compared to anything else. Yes, they have been serviced properly and maintained, but they have had hard lives. That being said, is the 2010 car a TDI or TSI? I'd take the 2019 car any day over a TDI that has done 6k miles a year. On paper, at least, a 2019 car on 46k miles is very attractive. For everyone's viewing pleasure - 2010 Scout https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202608125020633?sort=relevance&twcs=true&searchId=f0d3de8b-2669-43ae-a4e8-fb63584a45c2&aggregatedTrim=Scout&make=Skoda&model=Octavia&page=1&postcode=cr08pn&year-from=2010&year-to=2011&advertising-location=at_cars&fromsra=&backLinkQueryParams=aggregatedTrim%3DScout%26channel%3Dcars%26make%3DSkoda%26model%3DOctavia%26postcode%3Dcr08pn%26sort%3Drelevance%26year-from%3D2010%26year-to%3D2011%26flrfc%3D1&calc-deposit=550&calc-term=48&calc-mileage=10000&calc-selected-product=PCP 2019 Scout https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202608064875987?sort=relevance&searchId=19d5eb1f-705c-4820-b878-5feb912bb3f5&aggregatedTrim=Scout&make=Skoda&model=Octavia&page=1&postcode=cr08pn&year-from=2019&advertising-location=at_cars&fromsra=&backLinkQueryParams=aggregatedTrim%3DScout%26channel%3Dcars%26make%3DSkoda%26model%3DOctavia%26postcode%3Dcr08pn%26sort%3Drelevance%26year-from%3D2019%26flrfc%3D1&calc-deposit=1000&calc-term=48&calc-mileage=10000&calc-selected-product=HP Here is the 2019 car dressed up -

Nice to know there's still some billionaires who're a bit philanthropic IMO. Actually made something of himself apparently inventing optical devices to help people. I'd rather a billionaire like that than ****ers who go full Nazi and kiss butt for tax breaks or inside information.

I’d like to add my weight (and perhaps confusion) to this thread as my 21 month old Kodiaq SE L 7 ( Not DCC) has had this same noise since 3 months old. Dealer has replaced the steering rack twice already and now proposes a third. Each time it does quieten the noise but only for a couple of weeks. Surely it’s when the subframe is lowered to replace the rack it changes something to give the temporary respite.

Yeah. It was done at 40k.

First time ŠKODA owner here. Went all the way to Colchester from our home by Loch Ness to pick up a Octavia diesel estate which was pre registered with 31 miles on it. It had the premium winter pack which I really wanted as handy up here in the cold weather. Hope to get a few tips on getting the most out of the car. First impressions are really good. Great quality and drives really well and averaging almost 70 mpg on a run. Martin 👍🏻

Left foot braking is disengaging drive. Well not for me as i have only a left foot so it works the accelerator or brake pedal but not both at once and for 17 years of driving DSG,s using one foot and D, S or R i have never had issues parking or have a vehicle creep.

hi there regarding the drs car does it have holes drilled in the exterior body panels etc like a emergency response vehicle roof mounted lights etc ? if so i would stay away . You usually find that half a dozen electricians have been at it will god knows what ever wiring .. The other car maybe older but hasnt been messed about with

I can only assume, from all that, that your handle stands for Man Who Hates Them Cars... 🤪

Hi lawlozuk, enjoy the car.

So it seems that you can swap the rear sensors as the sensor has a straight design. I didnt swap them in the end because it was a complete faff to get the sensor off. The bolt was completely rusted & it was difficult to fit the bit into the head. Eventually it came out & I am still not sure if the head was a Torx or Hex fitting... (The garage said Torx but the new bolt I fitted has a hex head). As usual the electrical connector is the most finger destroying part. To remove the sensor itself, you need to give it a lot of force or lever with a screw driver. The plastic body of the sensor acts to position the sensor in the correct place so has a strong interfence fit by design. I tested the electrical connector & there was 12V at Key On so I took the chance to replace the sensor rather than try to test it first as I needed a new bolt anyway due to the state of the head of the old one. The old sensor which failed was part number: WHT 003 864 A The new sensor I fitted is the latest version: WHT 003 864 C After fitting and reconnection, the ABS light & Tyre Warning Light were still illuminated. However, after driving above 30kph both lights disappeared & there are now no faulty at all displayed in the infotainment. I checked with Car Scanner & the Right Rear Vehicle Speed is now correctly displayed (before it was reading intermittently but mostly 0kph. Another simple(ish) correction saving me a fair few hundred francs...!