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IMO you could put a BYD or Jaecoo badge on it and I'd believe it to be one. Nothing about it screams Jaguar but perhaps that's just me?

Goodness me, I want to like it, I want to feel something positive about it (and the brand). But the more I look at it, the more I think 'Oh dear', and those words just keep surfacing ☹️ In the mid 80's, I borrowed my Brother's XJ 4.2, and it was lovely, old, but sumptuous. In the late 80's he let me have a long drive in his American (twin headlights) XJS 5.3 V12. While I found the sitting position something to get used to, the car itself was awesome 😎 I look at this new one with a relative level of unbothered, and it just doesn't inspire. At all. Gaz

@Evolution13

Harry's Garage has a vid out today on the Jaguar Type 01 ifv someone can link it here. The getting in and out looks crap, the cars controls / touch screen stuff looks total crap and you will need your seat forward or long arms and good eye sight. To me it looks total crap as a luxury car and certainly not an easy drive.

He failed. Was he watching Robocop when he designed it? 6000 SUX

Agree with Warrior. At this point it doesn’t seem clear whether you’ve spun a shell and are about to explode a big end and kill your crank, or if you have a failing lesser component, or maybe a blocked oil pick up. Certainly damage has been done, but if your bottom end is sound, I’d say all is not yet lost - unless you know otherwise. If I were a car dismantler, I’d also think £1400 was a good risk, possibly a good flip if it’s a non major repair. Gaz PS: Just having a nose around, and it looks like you can pick up a warranted second hand complete EA888 for between £1,500 and £2,000.

Coming up to 13 years of ownership from new. The 1.2 tsi Roomie apart from servicing and replacing consumables has only needed an offside headlamp and registration plate bulb. I have had no dash warning lights or any other gremlins. The paint is still in showroom shine and interior showing no signs of wear. I am so reluctant to change it..

Just about to p-ex my Feb 22 1.5TSi SE - mine since new and never had anything other than a couple of minor software glitches that cleared on restart/reset. Hope you have that same luck!

Haven't seen one of these in a long time: Very tidy example 👍 Gaz

I can only surmise you've been reading a different thread. Again, this issue has nothing to do with navigation.

I can't remember how it appeared in Eco mode. I think it was an icon. But as others have said, it will appear if the centre section of the virtual cockpit is set to display fuel consumption. It literally says "2 cylinder mode" in text.

If the software is up to date - and the battery in good health - both of which you can check easily without the dealer having to do anything - then you'll be fine. I'm on 1941, which has been fine for about 4 years. They're decent cars!

Hi to All, I’ve been a non-registered reader since August, when we bought a 2011 Fabia 1.2 TSI manual for my son as his first car. It needed a bit of work, and I’ve now created an account to ask a question. One of the rear shocks had failed (the other one was replaced by the previous owner earlier this year to pass the MOT). While replacing the it, same as in @GrumpyBob 's thread, we noticed a rust hole in the rear axle beam near the lower shock mounting point. After some digging I've found out that there are two OE part numbers - one for drum brakes and another one for disk brakes. Are the two versions physically different, meaning they won’t fit each other or just some bits and pieces that can be swapped? I assume there must be a reason for the different part numbers, but can’t spot any differences in the pictures. The reason I’m asking is that some aftermarket manufacturers list both OE part numbers as compatible with the same axle beam (this one for example), while others specifically list only the disc-brake version and don’t seem to offer a separate version for drum brakes (this Diederichs one I'd really want to buy if it fits) Appreciate any advice or information.

I had one similar as my first car... Y reg in mushy pea green.

Have to agree with others... Theres nothing about it that 8 find particularly attractive or inspiring... It's certainly not a car id aspire to own... Unlike some older Jags.

I'd love to see one in Vanta Black. Batman would run scared of it (assuming he could see it)

One for @Breezy_Pete I think 🤔

I got a mental block. Don't know if I can amend it now. Our 2011 car was an Octavia estate. The Karoq had about 8,000 miles when we bought it in 2023.

You need to change the pyro fuse. you can buy it on allegro 60-100eur, and find some one with handy hands and change it, don't need to buy new sx7 sx8 module (in battery) then you need someone with Odis to unlock j533 module, and car will start and drive

Hello there! First of wanna say thanks for this forum, figgured it was time to finaly make an account as this forum have been a good resource iv kept stumbeling uppon as im fixing up this "beater octavia" i got for dirt cheap a month ago. She might look pretty in the picture, gets up and move pretty well with the 1.8tsi 180hp, 4x4 and dsg - a plessure to drive i must say, plessanly supprised with how nice she is to cruise and thats me comming from a a6 c7 allroad, audi e-tron etc. But she have issues, there are rust, dings, scratches and general signes that she had a though life. The car was bought on an impulse a friday morning a month ago as both me and my sister needed a backup car for a little while, my audi and sisters subaru (rustbucket!) was due for its bi-yearly "road legal inspection" the same week. both need a fair bit of of work, especially the subaru where i need to reconstruct a good chuck of the rockers and inner structure (takes time for a it guy where the welding skill is "can somehow stick metal together"). And my schedule have been crazy lately so spare time to work on our cars have been more or less non existant. Back to the project Skoda! I got here cheap as the guy i bought it from had given up, had "engine noice" and check engine light he could not figgure out. he even did a timing chain kit... The Skoda jumped the repair queue as it looked like a farly quick doing and the inspection was due on this one aswell. When i looked at it before buying I had a suspision that it was the vvt solinoid causing the noice and engine light - It was!, there was also a coolant leak from the waterpump and a connecting piece, did new rear breaks, 3d-printet a repair for the handbrake (Thank you forum member here!) - and she passed here inspection ;) These cars are know to rust a bit in norway, and she have door handel and rear quarter rust. ignored the doors for now but the inner finder, rearquarter and rear sub fram got a full spa treatment and while the body had some rust the octavia is solid and after some treatment should last for a good long time. Now she is street legal and a absolutly fantastic car to drive! Almost thought of keeping this beater for my self replacing the A6 allroad for daily driving, did not help the A6's case that in the past 3 weeks the air suspension have started to leak and im having transmission trubbles... Its "only" done 285.000km, a bit early for a VAG dsg trans to have its first issues, right? 🤣 While the engine sound and pulls nicely, all is not well. After replacing coolent parts and while bleeding the cooling system i got low oilpressure warning... done some minor stuff to hoping it would solve it, and yesterday i did an oil pump. still have some hot idle pressure issues that needs further investigations but that is for later and a dedicated post. Well this turned in to a long post.. But again, thanks for the forum!

Thanks for the reply. It clearly needs more investigation. I may have to wait until my partner is here. He thinks it maybe the glow plug control module. I don't get any other messages re park assist etc. On my old Superb the first thing to play up when the battery was low was the stop/start. I'm sure I can check the fuses with my partner's help. Yes when I charge the battery I connect the ground to the point behind the battery.

It is good that you ask that question, I am asking myself once again as well. It's 2026, 2027 couple of months... I am wondering if I had just about enough of this car. The problems just don't seem to stop! New ones just keep on adding to the pile. Error: selector lever, you can drive on, but visit the workshop and bend over. Yeah, the selector lever and the solenoids below it were replaced twice. But it is very persistently coming back. Even the authorized skoda service centers baffled. Front assist availablity is limited. This error is a new one. It's usually happens in cold weather. What am I supposed to drive to plus 20° every time I want this car to work properly? Started hearing kind of chain sound in cold weather. The PHEV DSG has become jumpy. Even at low speeds, when driving sensibly, it's shifting gears like on a Lamborghini. There's no technique to reset it like on YouTube videos. Doesn't work You need to run the engine at least once a week in 15C and above whilst driving at minimum 80 kmh so that the GPF stays clean. You try doing that when it's -15C outside! Trying to heat the car with air-conditioning is a stupid idea as it eats the HV battery so rapidly! Plus, if you have ever been in an Audi or Seat or a VW, you recognize the difference immediately, because in those cars it is silent! You can hardly hear the noise of the wheels on the tarmac! But the skoda Octavia is extremely acoustic. You hear every freaking noise that is around the car as the car is extremely bad on soundproofing. It is horrible that the skoda Octavia doesn't remember driving settings. You need to adjust them every time you start the car! People have been using external solutions like OBDeleven to overcome such gimmicks. This annoys me very much! A car is supposed to serve its owner. Not the other way around! A a product cannot dictate the user! But no Skoda doesn't agree with you. Even if you turn off the lane guidance, it's automatically switches on when you turn off the engine, so that you need to set it again and again and again and again on a long long journey. Same goes for hybrid driving mode. Every time you switch to hybrid mode, lasts until you switch off the engine! On a long journey you feel like you have OCD after a while! I'm seriously considering to switch back to Volkswagen Passat or Arteon. These annoyances are endless! 2022 Octavia 1.4 TSI DSG PHEV Combi

Hi all, new user here. Been reading through some of the threads and there is some really useful stuff. I would like to upgrade the software to stop the CarPlay interference and cracking, please could someone send me a link to the 8755 software. Pick of the current version below. Thanks.

Hi, I have a problem with my carplay is showing only sometimes. When it does it works fine, but most of the time I need to drive with second phone with android. Is that issue resolved by 8755? Currently I have 8740 version. CarPlay ver. 210.81. If is it resolved in 8755 can i get a file with update?

Some are good apparently Mine was not. Secondhand car dealer “full Skoda service history” Nothing on the digital “Erwin”system. Battery checked by AA ok but failed /replaced by main dealer after 300 miles. Plus DSG oil change as insurance (main dealer said filter good “for life “ (Maybe due to inaccessibility issues (around PHEV)). Chiller unit discovered compromised after third diagnostic attempt at main dealer (.£1463 quoted). The infotainment/connectivity was a nightmare - so main dealer upgraded to “1914” (?) so that is recognised as ok (now). In my opinion I wouldn’t recommend an early second hand Octavia 80K PHEV Mk iV to my worst enemy however cool they look (and they do). The inaccessibility due to cramped bonnet space, the vulnerability of the fragile tech associated with that sophisticated simply (too) clever (by half) engineering and as second hand the more than likely lack of any warranty makes such a purchase a money pit. Take away the PHEV aspect giving more engine bay accessibility, less fragile control system also the problemic “Covid year(s) issues the MkiV is probably a worthy successor to its previous iterations.

As it doesnt change pitch or frequency re speed etc and only when car is moving I cant see it being drive system/engine related. It may be a plastic undershield etc thats slightly loose or perhaps the brake splash guard is too close to disc and is vibrating. Check the heat shields on exhaust as well. Also next time it happens turn AC off in case its related. Alasdair

Wow good for you. I am sure you will be an asset to this community with your insights and enthusiasm (Yes good looker it is !)

These are the 2 codes which are causing the engine light & what you should concentrate on: P06DA00 Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit/Open static P064C00 Glow Plug Control Module static Checking the battery is cheap and simple but usually you have lots of other warnings & messages on the display with a bad battery (ACC, park assist, Tyre monitor, etc not available after starting). Next I'd check the fuses for both modules (or perhaps they have a shared fuse) to make sure it's not just one of them blown. Otherwise I'd suspect something electrical as they are not really related. When you charge the car at home, do you connect the ground off the charger to the charging point behind the battery (not into the terminal of the battery) ? Gabbo

I'd have thought quite likely - I'd suggest it would pay to have an analysis of the swarf done and test the oil pressure.

@Kojne Welcome to the forum. What country are you in? Does the car you are getting have a comprehensive service history? How many km has it done? Has the DSG had an oil and filter change? Has the VAQ diff been serviced, maybe twice by now?

Hello, I don't think it's the accessory belt. Its intensity and frequency are constant and do not vary with engine speed. It cannot be heard when the vehicle is stationary, whether the engine is idling or being revved. Thank you.

Thank you for your reply. I'm just a little old lady with a Superb I love to drive 😉. Here are the Pcodes P06DA00 Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit/Open static P064C00 Glow Plug Control Module static There are also these Bcodes B10AF04 air con B122D29 central locking driver, passenger and rear left doors B122B12 as above B122B11 as above B105413 GPS antenna Be good to know where I go from here, possibly not in my Superb 🤣. All advice is very gratefully received.

Hi Guys, New to the forum My name is Ash and was a member of this forum a long time ago! Just bought a nice mk1 fabia vrs that im looking to get a bit nicer as a daily hack....they are hoofing little cars! Got a few other cars on the drive/in the garage but love these little things! Anyway, hopefully meet a few of you in the future!

I set it up on both Google Maps and Apple Maps, and it works.

Those bolts are in 10.9 class. Tensile strenght 1000 N/mm² which is high strenght, to get it to plastic deformation, much more torque needed than aluminum block can endure. I dont think i need new bolts. Not for aluminium mount. Old ones are good enough. It that place, when changing timing set belt, you have to change 50 bolts which is insane.

Check the auxiliary belt for wear on its sides. It may be a pulley or tensioner thats failed. Also check undertray is secure etc. Have a weird scuffing noise on my octavia that I think is brake pads rubbing but doesnt happen very often. waiting for it to get worse so I can diagnose it. Worse when cornering and then disappears. Alasdair

My only experiences with JLR came via the LR bit. They have some very nice showrooms but In always got the feeling they weren’t interested in anyone who wasn’t paying 6 figures. As for the new Jag i feel i should slag it off but if I’m really honest growing on me. But not in silver it looks bloody awful in silver. Why do they keep showing the silver one. Have i mentioned it look REALLY BAD IN SILVER. Just a hint there JLR. CarWow were showing off a red one and it looked so much better. Not sure about the back at all though.

No, the frequency doesn't change. I changed the tires a few days ago, and the noise is still there. For now, it doesn't seem to be getting worse. So, I'm avoiding long trips and keeping an eye on it while waiting for a possible solution.

I’m pretty certain this thread is no longer about individual versions of the “truth” about electric cars.

All set up and should be received by the end of next week.

Not sure exactly what has been done over the last 3 years but here’s an updated picture…

It’s been a while… Grille has been changed, Front splitter got broken and replaced, Calipers have been painted vintage copper, Bonnet had started to get drastic lacquer peel and has now been resprayed, Silver bits in centre console have been replaced with carbon effect from a vRS, Still some more plans for this as well

Thanks a million for getting back to me, I have the maxidot and the amp at the parcel shelf. I bought a DX unit cheap enough locally but the actual plug that goes into the back is different to the one currently on the loom. If I get a chance when I get home I can send a photo.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/227518741122 Currently have it listed on eBay but I’m getting messed about (surprise, surprise) so once it ends it will be for sale only to Briskoda members. If you’re interested drop me a message. Cheers, Ryan.

That explains the website then. And if they've treated you well that's good, I'm glad. However it's not the same experience myself or a work colleague have had with them over the past 20 odd years.

I would be extremely surprised if that has any basis in truth.

See the attached ROUGH guide to fitting the rear wheel arch liners on a Citigo. If you wish to follow my guide you do it at your own liability. Fitting rear wheel arch liners 1.0A.pdf

I have had a 2019 VRS 245 for 3 years and it runs fine on BOS0241245673. The car is tuned to 300bhp and the plugs have handled that ok.