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Two sales guys were giving conflicting info regarding the next i30N. One said auto and AWD and the other said auto would be offered but only FWD. I've seen various reports regarding test mules and such and Hyundai themselves have been quoted as saying an auto/AWD has been tested at 'the ring'. Whether or not they are going into production remains to be seen. Out of both cars the i30N actually excited me more. For me it just looks fun, like an eager puppy. Some interior plastics are more of a comparison to the Fabia rather than the Octavia/Superb but everything seems solid and is well laid out. The Performance version/fastback actually has a lot of standard kit and TBH I wouldn't bother with the standard one, mainly for the downgrades in kit. Not sure if the seats are too high but they are very comfy, almost as plush as Volvo seats. The Stinger is lovely and from aesthetics and tactility I'd say it's equal to the Superb in some areas and better in others. The interior has a bit more 'flair' to it Vs the Superb, defo. Obviously there's a difference between a showroom prod and actually living with one. My only concern with the GTS is a lot of power and RWD. Having had the 280 I like the security that AWD and surefooted traction provides. Oddly the Stinger V6 is available in the US and a few other markets with AWD (even has a drift mode) so it could soon become available in the UK. Whether or not they do that as a refresh or wait for the 2nd gen, I don't know, neither did the dealer. As I've already promised Mrs P; I won't be making any decisions or doing any 'sums' until I know more about the gen2. The dealer said they are always receptive to deals as they don't like to lose business over Carwow and such.

All gone corporate, the flair has gone no more Yeti's or Roomsters or anything innovative just minor variations of corporate image.

I will get some more when it's dry but here's a starter.

Just another night on the Gold Coast.

SO I just recently bought my firs SKODA, a Superb(2015) with the same problem, running cold, temp never got above 70, even on a 40 mile motorway run. Took it back to the dealer(Main SKODA dealer) and it went something like this.(I may be paraphrasing somewhat) Me: My temp is running cold, please fix it. Dealer: Sure no problem, its probably the thermostat, well order one in and sort it. Me: I've found online that it could also be the DSG Thermostat, should we change that too? SKODA Mechanic: Your car doesn't have one, only the older cars have that. Me: But Ive even got the part number I can give you(which i got from this forum) SKODA Mechanic: Nope, your car doesn't have one of those. Me: Ok then. 2 days later Dealer: we've changed the thermostat and it didn't fix it, we need to send a report to SKODA, you can pick your car up till we hear back from them. ME: Nope dont want it back till its fixed, please change the DSG thermostat. Next day i walk into the dealer Dealer: oh we've ordered another part for it. Me: was it this part?(gives dealer DSG stat part number) the one you said my car didn't have? Dealer: yeah thats the one Another 2 days later Dealer: Yeah that fixed it your cars ready. In summary, 10 minutes on this very helpful forum and i was telling a feckin main dealer how to fix my car. Dealers hahaha.

Driven it to the dealers....a Kia/Hyundai dealer and had a good look at a Stinger GTS and i30N. Dealer mentioned they’re expecting imminent news of the 2nd gen of both cars so I may hold off making any decisions. Their first effort is pretty damn good though. Didn’t want to test drive. That may have pushed me to the point of no return 😂

I do indeed. It's a moot point anyway, the scout is only 33mm higher which would have no noticable effect on any trailer.

The Stance+ coils are very cheap compared to anything else on the market, cheaper than OE springs and OE shocks, they may be perfectly fine, but i wouldn't trust them. 21k miles should be fine. You can always fit the springs then later if the shocks leak or you find it a little floaty then you can choose to replace with OE shocks or Bilstein B8's. dpm performance has the Eibach springs, take care to choose the correct ones for your engine & gearbox. The lighter rated ones for: 1.0 MPI (any box), 1.0 TSI (any box), or 1.2 TSI (manual box) The heavier rated ones for: 1.2 TSI (dsg box), and 1.4 TDI (any box). The 1.4 TSI also takes these same heavier rated ones but has its own listing for whatever reason. https://www.dpmperformance.co.uk/car-parts/skoda/fabia/buy/lowering-springs use the options at the top to see coilovers and such too. Bilstein B8's you can get from a few different car parts sellers. (autodoc is one) @Damian@DPM might be able to help you out

Depends on what you mean by polish. Some polishes are just really filling minor swirls and halos, leaving a uniform'ish layer over the top that will ultimately fade/dull over time/washes. OR, you can actually use a polishing machine and varying levels of abrasive pads/product to permanently remove swirls and halos. Unless you are using a machine (or to a lesser extent, a Sonus SFX pad or similar) you aren't really going to touch the top coat and certainly not enough to cause any damage. I would say rubbing the cars paint with anything before decontaminating the paint and washing thoroughly will actually cause more harm than good as you'll likely introduce fresh marring and micro-scratches. A new car will likely have a lot of fallout on it and a load of other contamination...sitting at the docks, being transported by train (iron/metallic fallout) and not to mention whatever the valet monkey does to the car during PDI. My last few VW group cars had medium hardness of paint. Rubbish for stone chips and such but relatively easy to detail. The last two cars I've had have been factory orders and both had paint that was far from clean. Personally I would give it a wash and pat it dry then put your hand inside a plastic bag and rub over the body panels, if it's dragging and not passing over the car smoothly then I'd say there's some contaminants bonded to the surface already...so then I'd go down the route of applying fallout remover, rinse, then claying each panel before washing again and reassessing the paint. The more crap you can remove before rubbing your paint with polish/sealant the better. It will allow the product to work to it's full potential and should also last longer too. My wife used to have a Deep Impact blue Fiesta. It was the best colour/paint to work on. Almost looked like liquid when it was freshly cleaned ; the Kuga looks lufly

Unfortunately the information is limited. You're right though, the issue was related to certain batches of bad MOLL batteries, but there are now an increasing number of posts, including this one where Skoda dealers are replacing batteries anyway. Another option is to ring Skoda Assist and tell them your vehicle has failed to start (even if it hasn't), they'll pop out and if they see a MOLL battery, and believe you're having issues they'll replace it with one from off their van stock. If it helps the TPI is as follows, it doesn't mention certain batch numbers, simply that it is tested... TPI 2053989/3 for MOLL batteries fitted to vehicles, Checked manufacture of battery fitted to vehicle found MOLL fitted. Test battery using VAS6161 confirmed battery defective. Replaced battery as per TPI.

There are so many problems listed on this forum. I admit I have a Roomster and the PCV valve has broken and the 1st speed on the fan control has gone so that needs a resistor pack which is situated under the airbag. They are niggling problems which is not good enough for a 5-year-old car. Next time i am looking at Vauxhall.

Now I admit that I can be a bit over-sensitive when it comes to noise but rattling cars drive me nuts! After a few months of silent motoring, Ken (my Karoq) - don’t laugh, I’m probably not the only one who’s named their car! - developed a rattle. It was definitely coming from the inside but could I find it? And the dealer couldn’t either. So I started pushing and pressing different things inside the car as I was driving along. After many weeks, I found it! You know the little switch that turns the rear windows on and off? It was that. And the fix? A small piece of somebody’s business card wedged between the push button and the surround. Job done! Back to kwiet Ken 😊

Good priced used to be had.

An Eibach + Bilstein B8 setup will cost you about the same as an ST-X by KW coilover kit. An Eibach + New standard shock setup will cost you less, but you might find high speeds a little floaty. Personally, I've got 63,000 miles on my original shocks, i'll be going Eibach springs, then shortly after putting some bilstein B8's in. Just to see how much of a difference there actually is between the B8's and OE shocks. I'm not bothered about adjusting them, and when the time comes to replace the shocks again in a few more years, i can drop some more B8's in without having to put whole set of coils in. The B8's are 20-25% firmer than OE, and also a little shorter, they ensure proper pre-load of the springs. You ideally want these if you have lowering springs, not required though. The B6's are 20-25% firmer than OE, but are the same length, they're best for if you want a little firmer ride, but want to keep the stock height springs. Not too sure why anyone would bother with these though, also hardly see them in stock. Maybe more useful for cars that come out of the factory without mad arch gaps like the Fabia! You can do only Eibach springs and keep the original OE shocks, but as i mentioned, at high speeds it can feel a little floaty, and at times of extreme suspension travel, there's a slight risk of a spring rotating or coming unseated. After running so long on OE shocks and then lowering, the seals are now running on parts of the cylinders that aren't touched normally and have slight corrosion which will slowly eat at the seals, then your shock will leak, and fail. I've read around at Stance+ coils and they seem a somewhat common brand, not sure on build quality or ride. ST-X ones are made by KW, and are the same as KW v1's just they used galvanised steel instead of stainless steel, cheaper, and on salty roads won't last as long. Otherwise, they're identical. I've also been a passenger in a Fabia with eibachs and billstein b8's, it handled really nicely, on 17 inch wheels, wasn't too harsh. Cornering felt alot tighter and flatter. General cruising was same if not better than OE. It was actually less skittery over poor roads.

Sadly, I think a lot of us are feeling like you. I am on my third but very much doubt the 4th will be from the VAG stable.

I would have had beef with that farmer, I think he milked the whole situation.

Sainsbury have the antidote- Corona beer. Not known to cure the virus, but after a few, will you be bothered /

I've given this some thought of all of the tools that I've used over the years and I think this is has to be my favourite.... Not this actual one but this model. It is a Herbert 9C-30 turret lathe with pre op speed selection and 25" chuck. I used one of these from 1976 to 1981 turning castings and fabrications.

Between the storms I decided it was nice enough today for a quick wash and polish. I was thinking back to my last light coloured family car and how good it looked when done with AG Super Resin Polish so I had a root in the garage and found a bottle. Wash and dry. Polish with Auto Glyn Take photo before it went dark Then a quick coat of AG Topcoat Sealer so the next lot of tar spots can stick to that instead of the paintwork.

My old Tomcat at my old work, And my old Escort,

Since I have nothing to brag in fuel efficiency department, let me share a quick snap of the exterior.

Keep a record of everything as you may need it.

Stop showing off Michael! I know I can fit on, but not sure by how much.

Jeff, When I was changing my only other option I would have considered was a V90. Seats were so comfy.

** EDITED FOR YOU I think the Love sausage is Number 69 on the menu.

Sometimes the simplest solution.........glad you sussed it.

Ironically Volvo had multiple early Haldex failures on 5th gen cars when dealers weren't routinely cleaning out the filter at oil change time. They told customers that it's a sealed unit and only needs oil. Yes, the filter is not a consumable part but it should still be cleaned in conjunction with an oil change. Mind you my indy specialist said the local VW garage refused point blank that the filter needed maintaining on a Mk7 Golf R, when the owner brought the car to him for a second opinion he advised a filter removal, clean and refit. Low and behold it was gummed up.

The rally version sounds quite nice and won the Monte Carlo rally 2020.

How do you go about selling on / part exchanging a stage 1 / remapped car? Do you reset it or hope that there are people out there who are on the lookout?

No, the centre badge doesn't make a difference. All I can suggest is get the car supported properly, grab the wheel and rag it side to side as hard as you can, spin it a bit and repeat. You might want to put a wheel bolt back in a turn so it does stun you when it finally comes free. Put a smear of copper grease on the hub to stop it happening again.

Couple of things to try, easiest first: Firstly, with wheel nuts loosened slightly (less than half a turn), manouevre the car very slowly back and forth, turning left and right (imagine a slalom) for as short a distance as possible. e.g. 2 or 3 car lengths. Listen for any noise which might indicate a problem. You're just trying to break the bonding force between the wheel and the hub. I put a wristband over the gear knob any time I do something like that (connect a battery charger etc) so I remember it's not safe to drive normally - or more importantly my wife asks "what's that there for". Try a few times. Failing that, roll the spare tyre against the tyre wall when the wheel is jacked slightly off the floor (and without bolts on). Mind your wheel arches. A combination of these approaches has always worked for me when the rubber mallet hasn't. Good luck.

Sadly not, it was bone dry but thanks for the response.

Yeah sounds like small tweeters number 5 and 6 speakers.

I've only saved the mirrors in the downward position in the seat memory. When I reverse, I tap #2 once, if needed and the mirrors both tilt

Those are H4 bulbs. They're also not too easy to remove, if you ask your dealer kindly theyll probably help you out. If you get your own bulbs (osram night breakers or similar) tell them you accept the risk there is no warranty or liability on their part if they fail. Others on here have done the same. if you get non-road-legal ones such as led ones or those H9 on H7 ones, they won't go near them.

No bad at all, you’ve done a great job?

Are they near the wing mirrors, small tweeters?

Have to disagree with him 360bhp and 4WD is more fun than 336bhp and front wheel drive axle tramp and torque steer.

Same here. My Yeti is my third Skoda but I doubt there will be a fourth. Same reason as @Stubod but additionally, there is nothing in the current range that appeals.

Thanks for all the feedback. Seems Insignia might not be such a good idea, especially as I'm used to a Superb now, so better stick with what I know (and the tax difference is minimal). Yes, I know an automatic with ACC would be the best mating, but sadly my budget just isn't that generous else I'd have one like a shot. Given I've had 4 years in an 'S' spec car, going to a newer SE spec will be a step up for me anyway! Most of the time I'll use the ACC will be doing 50-70mph along the A14/A11 so probably not needing to change gear much. I was hoping to try for a new Octavia, but I don't think I can string it out until May, more's the pity, the move to a new car is already a bit later than expected (I think I should have been having the discussions last October/November but they forgot!).

I was rather baffled when mine didn't! Not so much coz it was advertised as having Bluetooth, but it's production started in 2009(?) Why wouldn't it have Bluetooth!?!?!

Just to let you know that after following the directions under dry conditions I can report that the leak front off side has been completely fixed. Thanks for your help.

Hi, I updated the other day and everything still working. Just want to share my experience. First of all thank you guys for the firmware. I created a USB Toshiba 3.0 16GB formatted to FAT 32 and copy the folders and the meta file to the root of the USB drive. The instructions say to do it with the engine turned off and the lights but, just for the sake of trying and as well to make sure the battery doesn't run flat during the update, I decided to do it with the engine running. I turned off the lights, disable the auto start/stop and A/C, eject any SD cards I had inserted in the unit from the glove-box. Insert the USB and keep pressed the menu button about 10 sec until you get to the service menu, then click update, the unit will look for the update, once it found the update, came with a list of what will update and what will skip (I guess because they already updated), I didn't change anything at this point and click update. Everything started fine, the first step is to download the files in steps from the USB to the internal memory, before updating, very clever, this way it minimise the risk of bricking the unit. At download 2 of 14 it gave me an error message, I kinda panic a bit, although I new that at this point nothing was updated because it was just uploading the files from the stick, but still. I pressed retry, the unit rebooted and tried again download 3, took a bit longer but yet gave me the same error message, I clicked again retry ... and so on 4 times. The forth time the download was successful. Then just follow the steps. The unit will reboot several times, and some of the time the screen will stay black for longer time, don't panic, don't try to stop it, just stay calm, it will finish. When you get the radio o GPS or whatever you had before the update then its done. The update its very clever, and I'll say very safe. It first uploads the files in a sequence to its internal memory then you will get a shadow copy screen (This is the danger zone), this is when it erase the eprom and copy the new files. Even if for whatever reason it fail and you cant turn on the unit, I see it has some sort of emergency OS, that I guess is some sort of safe mode to try to restore the unit. The emergency OS is the last thing the unit will update. As you can see from the photos, I was on 435 and now I´m on 490, visually I haven't noticed any changes, maybe the screen is more responsive, and the music sound better but it could as well just be my subconscious. Somethings has change, the update is almost 5GB so something must have change. Is it worth the upgrade, I´ll say from 435 to 490, not really, if your unit works at it should leave it as it is. If someone have a changelog, it will be interesting to see, what has change. Again thank you BATVANVRS and Madz0r for the update and everybody who is contributing on this forum.

As a reference Skoda should charge about £75 for this. If a FL MKII it will be Haldex Gen4, this has a mesh filter. If a pre-FL MKII it will come with Haldex Gen2, not sure about filters with those. Recently went to an indy who replaced the filter as well as the oil. The filter was about £50 which he got via a Volvo supplier. Volvo replace the filter on their Haldex Gen 4 vehicles. Skoda do not. In fact they deny the filter even exists.

Blue -

Wash hands occasionally?

Before anybody spends £100+ specifying the stainless pedals, you might want to read this..... I can confirm the same part fits the Kodiaq.

Clutch and gearbox replaced last year as you say. now you have a loose mounting, not tightened up correctly when job done ??or is it worn. Surely they would have replaced the Dmf when clutch had gone ?? If they did then I would be saying it needs sorted at garage/skoda cost not yours if they didn’t replace it was it cost cutting and now came back to bite them, so again I’d be asking why you have to pay. Also what sort of mileage as the car done since it was sorted, surely not enough to put it done to worn parts

NICE!, id change insurance companies out of spite, cos that is pretty retarded. on the airfilter though, consider the carbonio air intake. It still utilizes the standard oem system, but forces moe air through giving you much more throttle response. A filter is also included as well. All it takes to revert to pure std is to undo the 2 torx screws on the duct and the clip then swp it at anytime.