StevesTruck

I've got 2 of those clamps in the shed 😆

Hope someone's told them the gas terminal at Theddlethorpe got knocked down 3 years ago.

Window motors are always worth grabbing

You can normally get a bleeder on from the back of the wheel when the car's up in the air. But yes, that takes the p***

Any sign of oiliness in the intake?

Any signs of oil in the water or vice versa? Heater working ok?

All the little 12v ones are much of a muchness, don't worry too much about the brand. They make a lot of noise and do the job, albeit a bit slowly. Don't bother with the digital ones, it's just stuff to go wrong on something that's been made as cheaply as possible. The only one I found that was any different was one from Lidl, which was a lot quieter.

It's definitely worth avoiding disturbing the subframe if you can help it, particularly if you're working on the ground. They do have a bit of wiggle in their fitment, so you can mess your alignment up fairly easily. Not a great fan of poly bushes on the consoles myself, I've got them on mine and it's a bit harsh for a daily. If I were doing it again I'd go with the solid rubber bushes off an Ibiza cupra.

Or drop an old screwdriver between the plates of the brake disc and let it sit against the caliper to stop the hub turning while you torque it.

Fairly sure that the bearing/hub assembly bolts in on these, so yeah, as long as you've got the right sockets and a decent impact gun, it should be fairly straightforward.

I think the vent has an electric cooler under it, so I'm guessing they wanted that for another car

The rear calipers do like to seize, so be ready for a battle there. and yeah, the torque is an absolute laugh when you get the hang of keeping it in that narrow power band, just got to remember to look after the clutch. Then you get the flipside that when you don't want that, it's just a 55+mpg diesel hatchback.

Main problems Previous owners doing bad modifications Previous owners not doing maintenance Previous owners driving into things Previous owners lowering cars as far as they can, then beating the floors and sills to death on every bump in the road. Inner sill rust Clutch slip Console bushes (front bottom arm rear bush) Plastic collars on the front anti roll bar breaking up. Injector wiring loom breaking up (leads to a misfire as the car warms up). Camshaft wear (misfire on idle) Window linkages Window motors Also, bear in mind that they don't drive anything close to what a Clio 182 does. Less power as standard and a much lower, narrower, power band. Very front end heavy on the weight distribution.

I know what you mean there. I've got a friend who refers to Edinburgh as "down south" 😆

Seems a bit of a strange one. Did he have to take the wheel hub out to remove tyre debris or something?

Those picks work well, and can give you a profile to order a third party key. They take a bit of practice though. If you can't get it to unlock your car, have a go on your mate's to help you get your eye in. Not too sure why you're willing to do damage to get the bonnet open. If it's just to run power into the car, can't you just drop the tray off and borrow the alternator positive wire to hook a battery charger on?

Stupid question, but do Mk3's have an unlock button by the handbrake? It might be easier to hit with a bit of fencing wire than anything else. Not sure if they still work with the car deadlocked, but anything's worth a go. Or is the boot release an old fashioned cable pull? Should be relatively easy to get with a bit of pallet banding, especially if you can wedge/airbag the door out a little?

Is it manual windows in the back or electric, same for the boot popper? If it were me, I'd start by trying to pop the bonnet or wind a manual window down with a bit of stiff fencing wire. Last resort, I'd probably feel happier about breaking the window regulator than the glass and just give that open passenger window a solid push straight down. Just be aware that when you reconnect power, there's a chance that the car may relock itself. A half decent locksmith will probably have a pick for the lock, so should at least be able to open the car and release the steering lock without damage. The picks are available online and not particularly hard to use.

I'm just wondering if the issue was with the cam sensor's wiring rather than with the sensor - is that code still there? Was that the one that said open circuit, or was that something else? I always say silly stuff first - have you checked all fuses?

Petrol or diesel? Any codes since the sensor's been changed? Any ideas what the other codes were?

Witam - sorry, my Polish is not good enough to type a reply It sounds like quite a large electrical connection is not making a good circuit. Check your battery connections are all clean and undamaged. Then move onto the big fusebox in the engine bay. Examine the biggest fuses carefully, as they can develop small breaks. Then generally make sure all the connections in there are good. Have you scanned the OBD?

There's 2-3 thicknesses of steel around the turret, it might not be a bad as it looks. It could be worth chipping what you've got back in case the bottom one's still solid, in which case, it's not too bad to plate the other layers back in.

You can get them off with just the bottom spring removed, but yeah, easier if you take the hub off, it's a taper fit, so no need for presses or special tools or anything.

We had a similar one with our company van a few years ago. Third party insurer accepted responsibility and our estimate on the phone, then didn't send any of the promised paperwork. Ended up with me sending a letter before action to them and their customer, which rattled enough cages to get a cheque our to us really quickly.

That's a suspension arm, they're cheap enough, I'd be more bothered about the bit it's bolted on to.