StevesTruck

I put 40k on an SKF one when I had my octavia, without issue if that's any help. They're easy to change, but you will need the right socket and a decent impact gun.

It's been a while since I've done one, but I remember thinking a similar thing myself. From memory, the screw isn't central in the hole in the door. I think as you're looking at it, it will be at about the 7 o'clock position. A screwdriver bit in a holder won't get on it.

If you have a look on youtube for how to do a mk4 Golf one, it's pretty much the same. I'd try to explain it on here, but it's one of those that makes so much more sense in a video.

Poor little thing's confused, so yeah, I'd say it needs a big change of fuel level once of twice to sort itself out. All assuming the mechanic hasn't done something daft to the level sender.

Only having 12 at the battery isn't ideal, but shouldn't stop it lighting up. Is it locking and unlocking from the remote? Simple stuff first, always - check the battery connections and grounds, charge the battery, check the maxi fuses closely for damage, check all other fuses. Turn the key and give the top of the dashboard above the clocks a bang. Try the spare key.

To be fair, I'd probably tank it and run it low a couple of times so it sees the difference in level. The gauge isn't hooked directly to the level sender, so the electrickery probably wasn't expecting to see all the fuel disappear and a new level appear.

Where did he drain the fuel from? Engine bay, underneath, or via the cars interior? I'd imagine if the senders not been taken out and damaged, it will sort itself out after a couple of full tanks of fuel.

I'd be interested in the whole car. I tried to pm you, but I think your inbox might be full or pms turned off?

It's normally a thin wire in the pad material that goes open circuit when it wears away. Either fit the right pads, or put a loop of wire in the plug if you're not bothered about such things.

I'd totally agree with @rum4mo - if you're planning in advance to use the jack of doom, it's not an emergency, so get your hands on a safe jack and use that instead. If I were changing a wheel at the side of the road, and was bothered about scratching the stonechip on the seam (unlikely on a single usage) - I'd probably use a bit of thick, flexible plastic. Maybe a bit of Damp Proof Membrane, or chop a bit out of a heavy plastic shopping bag. Lay it on top of the jack and let it sink into the groove as the sill puts weight on it. But yeah, unless you're utterly up **** creek, don't use the supplied jack.

Don't know if it's still the case, but in my tradeplating days, they used to buy loads of ex-hire cars.

3k on the clock? That's an amazing find! My main concern would be anything made from rubber. I'd be changing the timing and aux belts as soon as possible. Then my main priority would be have a good look at the state of the calipers and replace discs and pads. These don't normally rust, but do give it a good looking at all round in case it's been sat with moisture trapped somewhere.

Anything that may seem unrelated?

Go somewhere that does a free tracking check, tell them you're skint til Friday. Go home, give it a tweak in the right direction, go somewhere else that does a free tracking check...... Doing it with a bit of string at home works, if you've got a dead level surface to park the car on.

30Nm, careful because a lot of torque wrenches won't be accurate that low. The plugs should be pre-gapped when purchased.

Have you been able to do a code read at all?

Start simple, check your battery leads and all the heavy leads to the ground, starter and alternator for damage and corrosion. There's a little fuse box on top of the battery with your maxi fuses in, I'm pretty much expecting one of these to be damaged, probably just a hairline crack. Inspect these carefully and give them a prod with a little screwdriver to see if the crack shows.

I've got a Makita one, basically what I'd call a floorboard saw. It's a handy little tool, just don't expect too much out of it. I go with the rule that if I can bend the material with my fingers, it will do it, or in other terms, if the jigsaw will cut it, this will, just a bit quicker. Ryobi stuff's alright for occassional DIY use.

There's not a lot between them on paper, so I'd go on condition of the individual cars. Personally, I'd generally avoid any small turbo'd petrol engine, particularly in a bigger car. I'm not convinced about their reliability.

He's asking about updating a "Swing" radio on a 2017 Skoda Octavia and providing the version numbers.

Yeah, that's pretty poor. If it's an old style skoda key, they're pretty easy to rake. Give me half an hour with my cheap and nasty pick set and I can normally get them and I don't really know what I'm doing. If it's the newer-style VAG door locks, they're pretty trivial if you have the right lishi pick.

Set the cables evenly, whip the drums off, back the adjusters off. Check the end of the cable at wheel is sat evenly on each side. Get an assistant to gently work the handbrake lever while you watch how much free play there if before the shoes start to move. I'm guessing you've got a stretched cable. If it's not a stretched cable, take it all apart, clean, lubricate (including the backplates) and reassemble.

I just push the pin hard with my finger and put the clip on with a pair of combination pliers. If you can't push down hard enough, put a 5p in the finger of a pair or gardening gloves and push with that.

Not exactly hard to check, just grab the tie rod and give it a pull in and out, feel for a knock. You change the joint with the rod "drumstick" as a lot of places call them. They're not expensive, but it's worth paying that bit more for a good brand. It can be a bit of a mare to change then, even with the right size crowsfoot socket, and the car will want re-tracking, so I generally get somewhere to do them for me.

If the window is open a bit, I'd probably start with either a long bit of stiff wire, some pallet banding or even a bit of string and see if I can get on either a window winder, or a lock pin.