KenONeill

Ah I'd missed that. Ok, I can't recommend someone near you, but look for a place near your home or work that has a Hunter geometry rig and a reputation. Expect a printed result saying what the camber, castor and toe angles were before and are now for all 4 wheels.

Are those not asymmetric tyres? (will be marked "this side out" on one sidewall and "this side in" on the other.) If so, I'd judge wear by tread depth, not looking at width of grooves, and a proper depth gauge is about £5.

Those ones you've got are proper double hooked ones though; aren't they? Keep the pressure on each side fairly even and you're sound (do up one side by a turn, then do the other side the same, and only do them enough to release pressure on the 2 spring perches)

After seeing your photos yes you needed spring compressors. That said, this only applies when working with co-axial springs and dampers.

@Snowr0 - I agree with @Breezy_Pete above, particularly about the need for an OEM battery only. If this were true, Skoda would have to state "battery used- $make_and_model" in the build file for every car!

Actually 3.3l straight 6 on the FD.

Ah got you. At least I presume you're ok with someone occasionally (once every several months) deliberately placing one side of the car on a slippery surface to check the effects (holds straight, slow less quickly).

OK, do you have any other suggestion for testing ABS besides VCDS?

How do you obtain the COC? If you have a soft copy it may be as simple as setting the print margins for the document as wide as the printer will allow.

No. Switchable ABS is only fitted on cars with 4WD and one or more lockable differentials.

@JustASkodaOwner I think @rum4mo is correct, and saved me a lot of typing.

Well, my experience of cars fitted with stop/start is that 3 years is about the life of a battery, and don't forget to get the new one "coded in" so the rest of the electronics know it's a new battery!

No luck.

Not really an issue I think because they're definitely trying to change the original contract which you both entered into.

Only if the springs are coaxial; with separate acting lines I've changed both springs and dampers without the use of spring compressors (on an Opel Ascona RWD).

At a guess, they were resetting the indicator with the switchgear rather than doing the job properly (for variable) with the workshop computer.

There is no actual requirement for a "dip beam light", and some of us find having one irritating in half-light conditions.

Well, on rereading your description I think you may have an air bubble at a high point in the hydraulic line.

Not certain, but it looks like the top mount rubber has split. You need new rear dampers.

Cheers mate; which is the colour normally know as "hearing aid beige"?

@Owainsdad said @duck replied Both statements are true as far as they go. A cable clutch biting point will move down the pedal travel with wear, but a hydraulic clutch is self-adjusting once it's been bled and the driver(s) are used to any change in biting point from the new clutch.

Doing ~10k/year you shouldn't be on variable service anyway; that's intended for reps who do 20k/year or more slogging up and down motorways.

@JHowe A high (hydraulic) clutch is quite normal. I don't have a full history for my car but it's done at least 70_000 miles on the current clutch, which has always been fairly high. Does the tappet noise reduce as the engine warms up? If so, an oil change should reduce it, but I'll repeat the instruction to use VW 507.00 quality specification oil and nothing else.

Saddle soap; get it from a saddlers or a classic car firm.

I'm not sure how you're managing to measure that, but on the assumption that your technique uses devices positioned equally relative to the gear selector, it makes me think that you must have a stuck closed vent or blocked cold duct on your passenger side.