KenONeill

We'd say LF - Caster, Camber, Toe (in/out). Not least because camber and lean angle are 2 ways of saying the same thing. Anyway, more to the point is that, aside from language, that's what I'd expect a Hunter printout to look like.

There should be a large dot-matrix printed sticker in the boot, and/or owner's manual and/or service manual. There's a reason why this is called the "options sticker" or "specification sticker".

@Graham Butcher The last time I was buying jump leads (late 1995) the place I bought them from offered me el cheapo ones, "medium price" one at twice the cost of el cheapo specials, and professional ones at 6 (six) times the cost of the medium price. As a DIY type I bought the medium price ones, and the recipient vehicle (not always mine) has started first time every time in the intervening 27 years. Maybe worth considering?

I don't read Greek, but that's the sort of output I would expect from an outfit using a Hunter alignment rig. Red for out of spec and green for in spec, for each of camber, castor and toe value for each wheel, before and after adjustment.

Amazing how much the pre-show can be improved by using talking heads of Lee MacKenzie, DC and Billy Monger.

How old is a Felicia, or your Forman? That's how long it's had to develop a twist away from the factory specification. Now fit a chassis brace and instead of increasing chassis stiffness you lock in that twist.

I'd guess behind the fan speed switch, but your exact model was never sold in Europe so I can't be certain.

I'd suspect burnt out resistor(s) for the lower speed settings.

I'd prefer a 246 Spyder. Possibly in metallic lavender.

A strut "brace" is a method of locking in any pre-existing chassis twist. Avoid.

Yes and? @sepulchrave suggested that the recirculation flap is stuck (I think in recirc mode?)

@nige8021 previous posts still apply.

Replacement axle for sure.

Any FMIC is an improvement over an SMIC for track day or competition work.

Perhaps they've never heard of a vacuum cleaner? Yes, it does take a while, but it's eminently a DIY job.

I thought the vRS had a trip computer? If so then it's way more accurate than the gauge.

Maybe say if the travel from top to clutch out and slipping is long or short rather than high or low?

Yes; spring perch and spring plate are synonymous terms in this context. Also, use the compressors over as many turns of the spring as possible. From your photo upthread, that looks to be about 9 turns of this particular spring.

I did not say that. I said what I would mean by a dynamic balancer.

What do you mean by "dynamically balance"? @Carlston describes what I'd mean perfectly.

I would have said so, with the note that I mean that you don't have to press the clutch down far to get enough release to do a shift.

Yeah, for FA through FD the Ventora was technically a different car to the Victor (inc 4/90).

Because that's a variable, not a fixed N miles per unit volume?

Does that smell of antifreeze or distilled water.

Could be the luminaires, or could be a CANBus error.