KenONeill

Is there a wear or corrosion lip on the braking surface of the drums?

Sorry, I can't read the VIN in that photo.

@bobspark - Garage option; someone with a Hunter rig. You mean Erwin I think, not "Eswin".

2.0l, if only for extra "get out of trouble" muscle.

Where on the engine (or radiator) are the sensors in question? This may make a difference.

You did respond by telling the Service Mangler that it is your car, and not Skoda's so they needed your explicit permission to perform a software change?

You did read the bit where the battery check is free unless the battery needs replaced?

I'd also suspect one or more of weak battery, weak water pump and DPF regen. Start by getting an honest supplier to do a deep load test on the battery; this should be free unless you actually need a new battery, and even then the cost is more to do with the battery than the test. The regen will probably go away by itself given an hour's fast cruise.

Read the fault codes. Read the fault codes again, and confirm which corner they report a fault at. Continuity check the wires on the ABS sensor at that corner. If you find a wiring fault fix it; if you don't, clean the ABS chopper disc, clear the codes and repeat stages 1 and 2. If you no longer have a fault, job's a good 'un. Else goto stage 5. Replace that ABS sensor.

Similarly.

Cruise control; just the basic one that holds a set speed until you brake or accelerate.

Technically yes, but it will cost £Lots.

I'm virtually sure that you're correct and it needs either lots of time or a proper auto electrician to fix it.

147k miles is a very good mileage for an original clutch. LED headlight "bulbs" are illegal unless they were fitted from new.

Change your garage then. Yes, you'd have to change the tyre pressure(s) and reset the TPMS, but that's all.

Check the insides of the discs for evidence of a heavy score then; I've actually had a stone trapped between the disc and the back plate and it scored the relevant disc.

Because you need the MoT to use a car over 3 years old legally on the road in the UK (includes certain classes of closed course motorsport; check class regulations for details).

What material does your printer work with? I can see resin plastics melting.

Just the inside pad on the LHF disc.

I'd tend to agree that is not the thrust bearing, because that usually squeals when the pedal is pressed.

Absol-frelling-lutely the first things to check are the alternator and the battery.

Can you imagine having to pay an extra £600 for a fuel filler neck on an ICE vehicle?

Your "basics" are 2 "features" that I have happily lived without for 39 years and counting.

It looks to me like, somehow or other, the subframe bolts have torn through the shell; always use penny washers top and bottom of the subframe to shell mounts, and bolt the seatbelt to the shell with more penny washers used!

@cello Sounds like an issue with the idle speed controller from your description. I'd want to know more. To start with, is the "panel behind the (outer) wing the inner wing or the crash bar, the bonnet slam panel or what? A damaged crash bar raises the spectre of bent chassis rails and/or engine subframe.