Ecomatt

You need to scan the module for any stored fault codes.

If you have the driver profile button on the console near the gear lever you don't need to do any coding. If you leave it in sport mode it is in direct mode. All the coding does is to switch all profiles to direct as opposed to eco and normal being incremental.

No worries at all 👍 Depending on mileage it may be due a service. The DQ250 needs one every 40,000 miles. The DSG might also need a software update. One thing I would do though is get it reset and adapted. This can be done by VCDS or OBDELEVEN. I have the latter and it does make the gearbox nice and smooth again. If not you could speak to Skoda or another VAG specialist who is able to do it. Equally there are people on here who have VCDS who do work for beer tokens etc. If you purchased it from a garage I would make them aware of the issue purely from a warranty perspective, as every used car has 6 months under the Consumer Rights Act of 2015.

Are you manual or dsg?

If it is the starter motor it is best just to fit a new one.

Genuine discs are not that much and you can haggle new discs into the deal. My own Octavia costs me now £160 a month on HP and I am yet to find a car that does as much for so little. I have the TDi VRS DSG but not 4wd version. I cannot fault it but you need to find out if the timing belt and water pump has been done, as you are just about due then to be changed. Also something else you can haggle with and get some money knocked off or done as part of the deal. Either way they are a fantastic car and value for money. Plus long term running costs are low, which is what a lot of people forget. They buy fancy cars and next week we get e.g. 'I was expecting better mpgs in my 500bhp car' type posts. Good luck in your search 👍

If you do return your car you don't take it to the local dealer. You contact whoever provides the finance and they sort out the arrangements. Usually they are collected and taken to auction. I would advise getting your car fully valeted before handing back and should buff out any minor scratches etc. There is an element of wear and tear allowance but you may be charged for scuffed alloys etc. It might be better to sell to a garage if the value of the car is higher than the finance figure.

How is the engine running now? Been thinking about this after reading the updates. The engine might run rough because it is running from a zero setting with a few things after reinstalling the map. Components like the maf sensor and egr will need to re learn their adaption, as mine ran rough when I adapted the egr valve recently but then ran fine after it had finished. That being said if the engine has slipped its timing it won't be the maps fault, as that cannot physically alter timing. If a component was failing it would have failed anyway at some point. The increase in power would have helped it on its way. Hopefully you will get it sorted quickly.

The bluefin handset acts as a fault code reader so you can use that to see what codes are stored.

Ideally you need to use vcds or obdeleven etc to see what is going on. If you have any warranty then let Skoda take a look as they can use odis to diagnose any issues.

My VRS tdi had gone up £1000 in the last month. I am still not selling it though as I will most likely keep this till it starts with big repair bills. Hopefully that won't be for years to come 🤞

The idle is perfect at 750rpm. Most other card I have owned have been pretty much the same. It might be worth purchasing obdeleven and you can do a DSG adaption, which should smooth out the changes. The DQ250 can be a bit clunky on the diesel as mine is the VRS 184ps like yours. It is best to let of the brake pedal and allow the car to move forward then apply the accelerator.

Do you have access to vcds or obdeleven? There might be a fault code stuck that needs erasing. Have you tried a factory reset?

They are having a laugh. Doea the ACC work? It might have just had a hissy fit and spat it's dummy out. If it doesn't work then you proably do need though is the laser aligning and that can only be done at certain vw, audi and skoda dealers who have the equipment. Some independent VAG specialist have the equipment but it is very expensive so there are very few. If you have access to vcds or obdeleven it will probably tell you on there what the fault is.

Generally the EGR should not block up as the DPF catches most of the carbon before it passes through the EGR. When the EGR was replaced do you know if the ran an adaption on it?

After having a few issues with my Samsung S20 and getting it to work with Android Auto. I finally solved the issue. My old Samsung S8 worked faultlessly but I ran into issues when Iupgraded to the S20 last year. Itried the usual resetting and reinstalling everything to no avail. Then I gave up and just had to reinsert the usb lead everytime it disconnected. So after trying a few things and being a bit bored today I went through the settings on my phone. I happened upon an adaptive battery option that I had not noticed before and turned that off. Tried it in my car and it works perfectly now. I think the adaptive battery was limiting or killing off background processes that were needed to keep the smartlink/ Android auto working. So if anyone has the same issues and I know there have been a few. Try turning off any battery adaption feature on your phone to see if that helps.

I tried the coding on mine but I have a 2015 pre fl Octavia. It didn't work on that so I uncoded everything back. I belive you have to go to Access Control 2 in Central Electrics and activate Menuesteuerung Regenschliessen. That activated the menu option for me. I can recall reading that when you go on the extended byte coding that if you leave one of them unticked, possibly byte 1; on some cars that made it work.

Have you considered Superchips Bluefin? They do excellent maps and quote about 178bhp for the 1.4tsi, which is a more realistic figure to expect.

Personally if the car is reliable and hasn't caused you any issues I would keep it. The next service shouldn't cost 1k even with the timing belt and water pump change. You can still keep your warranty if you use a vag specialist who fits genuine Skoda parts and save a lot more money. That being said have you looked at any other cars you like?

A pressure bleeder prevents air from heading back up the brake line as it effectively mimics how the fluid would act under braking. As long as you push a load of fluid through and no bubbles come out you will be fine

Have you actually had the air con serviced at all because these issues can be caused by low refrigerant. Or did the garage check the levels only?

I don't know the answer but I always question why there is a need to fit large calipers unless you track day the car a lot. The standard 340mm are well upto the task as standard.

I would imagine there will be a different routine for your gearbox. There is an app within OBDELEVEN that does it all for you so it might be easier to do do that.

Control Unit 2 for transmission. Go to basic settings and that should bring you to the below page. Then simply click into the relevant setting you want. Do you have the pro version of OBDELEVEN?

Mine is DSG with no mods. The thing about DSG is that people treat it like an automatic when it isn't. Isn't is a 2 manual gearboxes with an automatic clutch. The gearbox can only work within the parameter it sees from the throttle input. The DSG does not learn your driving style and can only react to inputs. From having my car I have come to understand that if you want to be in a certain gear then either use the paddles and manually change, or use the gear level to do so. You will notice if you lift off accelerating the gearbox usually changes up a gear as it is set up for economy. It will only change down if you apply mote throttle, which is counter Intuitive if you are approaching a roundabout or corner. Again you have to just override it and manually change down to be I'm the right gear. Equally it can be jerky setting off but you have to pre judge when to start and lift off the foot brake and wait for the car to slowly creep forward before applying the accelerator to get a smooth start. The mechatronic unit is constantly checking every gear change it does and is constantly changing how it engages gear. Such as if it harshly engages a gear it will work out why that happened and try to correct it next time. This can lead it to go from its base adaption and cause running issues. This is why I reset mine every month. The pressing of the pedal method does help but it doesn't reset all the biting points etc that a proper adaption does. I did mine a few days ago and it is silly smooth again. It is a bit clunky when the gearbox is cold but when warmed up works perfectly.