langers2k

There are plenty of parts where the letter(s) at the end denote the revision but for something like shocks, that's not normally true. The F certainly doesn't mean front either... Instead, the FH will denote the variant which is likely to be a specific weight range and with PR-codes to match your vehicle build spec. Just as an example, these are some of the options listed from an online catalogue - the FH and FS versions are completely different diameters and certainly not interchangeable: @Carlston tends to know suspension part numbers so may have some insight? Personally, unless it's been obviously superseded, I'd stick with the original part number and definitely keep the both sides matching

Plenty of hits on google! For example: And this video: Or this one:

1) Possibly, press the FM button and see what happens 2) The best way would be to swap the headunit for a DAB version, I've no idea if 3rd party solutions exist 3) It's a Bolero, more specifically a MIB STD2 PQ style Bolero 4) Smartlink can be activated by a dealer, you'll only get Android Auto and Carplay if the build date is after May 2015 If you check the system information for a part number, that'll help answer some of your questions

The 'cd drive' is the headunit whereas the display side is just a screen with a touchscreen If I remember correctly, the connectors are: - white fakra for AM/FM - black fakra for DAB - pink fakra for the screen - yellow fakra for the USB port - blue fakra for GPS (not fitted above) - purple fakra for GSM (not fitted above) The quadlock has connections for: - power/ground - CAN-bus - speakers - microphone - a few other things depending on equipment You'll need to run most of those wires to your new headunit so maybe consider getting a quadlock extension or similar to make life easier

There are various technologies at play here, such as: - Mirrorlink - Android Auto - Apple CarPlay Depending on your phone, it may support one or more of the above to connect with the radio in your car. To use them, you just need to connect your phone with an appropriate USB cable and follow any onscreen setup instructions. You should then be able to use various music and navigation apps from your phone on the radio display. Skoda tend to group the above together and call it Smartlink. Smartlink+ is an extension which means if your car is connected to wifi or a 3G/4G modem, it can report various stats back to Skoda including fuel level and fault codes. You can access this data either via the MySkoda app or the Skoda Connect website. Skoda Connect are the online services which allow news, weather etc on the radio. Again, it'll need an internet connection and there is also a yearly fee to use it. Personally, I feel Skoda Connect and Smartlink+ are pretty useless. I use Android Auto via Smartlink all the time and it's great

Pretty sure the footwell light fuse is also used by some exterior lights so no, it's not that simple afaik...

I assume that's a 2018 so it'll have a MIB2/MIB2.5 Amundsen fitted. In which case, yes, the only check is the CID is valid but this only applies to the navigation SD card. For music, you can use any SD card and given it has two SD slots, have both the music and navigation cards in at the same time

I used the more expensive OEM version to get that factory feel. I don't like the fact the Chinese one can recode modules to install itself.... I'd much rather do that myself

What kind of Amundsen is this for? Your profile suggests a MK2 Octavia but I think you've sold it...

Some camera's have a little washer jet attached: When you activate the rear window washer jet, it'll also spray water on the camera lens to remove dirt/grime. it's not 100% effective but tends to work relatively well if the car isn't completely covered in dirt

Then you only have a basic instrument cluster so you won't be able to change the footwell brightness. You'll either need someone with VCDS or similar to do it for you or remove the bulbs

Can you post an autoscan so we can see what's what?

Assuming you fit an OEM camera, it should be pretty much the same as my 2018 Octavia. Coding is super simple and OBDeleven should easily be able to do it. More details here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485897-how-to-reverse-camera-fitting-guide/?do=findComment&comment=5456364

It also says connect a battery charger... I wouldn't want a battery charger connected to a running engine. I expect the battery charger instructions say the same 🤣

Might be worth posting an autoscan @SKD_VRS to give an idea of any fault codes and how your car is configured...

If you have VCDS, OBDeleven or similar, then yes, I would sort the code as it only takes a few minutes. If you don't own anything to fix the code, I wouldn't worry about it

Do you get an image of the car outline when the doors are open, much like this:

The 2049459/10 TPI from Skoda states: I expect the reason is to reduce the chance of a voltage spike/drop causing corruption during the update procedure. There is probably a newer TPI for the 0480 update but I've not seen it yet. It's your headunit so if you want to update it while driving you can, personally, I'd follow the instructions

You can use the adjusters on the headlights to lower them slightly: I'm not sure it'll help though. LED headlights have a very sharp cutoff so if you're on bumpy ground, it'll look like your flashing the car in front... High beam assist should be easy enough to enable, I've done it on my vRS and I'm happy to take a look at yours depending where in Norfolk you're based

Depends what you actually want to know...? It looks a bit like this: The all-wheel drive clutch (aka haldex) is responsible for transferring torque to the rear wheels. Both differentials are open so left/right torque distribution is achieved by braking the spinning wheel(s). It's all electrically controlled so the AWD controller will detect or pre-empt slip and move the torque around as it sees fit

I don't think the blocked heater matrix is a design issue, instead it's a symptom of having contaminants in the cooling system There is a Skoda TPI for this issue 2050019/13 so depending where/how you bought your car, you might be able to get this covered under warranty? If it were my car, I'd probably try the cleaning routine and see if that unblocks the heater matrix. If it doesn't, I'd probably change like for like and then running the cleaning routine again. While switching for a larger bore heater matrix might help prevent it from blocking, having contaminants in the cooling system will still effect the performance and longevity of various components... A quick google suggest G13 might not work well with brass/copper/soldered radiators although G12evo might be fine? I'd definitely suggest double checking that...

I thought it was a dataset issue? Happy to be corrected though 👍

Might be worth using the owners map/list to find someone local. Seem to be a few in South Wales

It's most likely to be the ring/piston issue mentioned in the other thread. If so, you need to find a VAG specialist to rebuild the engine which will probably cost a few thousand pounds I don't think there is any easy/cheap fix for this I'm afraid....