langers2k

Just be wary of the brake and fog lights. If I remember correctly, despite using dual filament 21/4W bulbs, you may find it only uses the 21W filament for both brake/fog and tail lights. It uses PWM to dim the 21W filament to the right brightness for the tail lights rather than using the 4W filament. If you're using a bypass/relay box style towing electronics, this may confuse it.

Nothing to worry about based on this thread: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/18048/ There might be a firmware update for the ECU or HVAC panel that fixes it. You'll have to get your dealer to check or buy an hour on erwin to check the TPI/TSB's for anything obvious

Oh, in terms of part numbers, you probably have 5L0035200D or 5L0035200E (depending on DAB). You'll probably want 5L0035680D or 5L0035680E (again, depending on DAB). They're quite sought after as the latest Yeti's were the only Skoda to get this style of headunit and they are a popular retrofit in a MK2 Octavia and MK2 Superb too

Welcome! If your car has satnav, you'll have a 'nav' button at the top right of the headunit (radio). On a 2017 Yeti, you'll have a MIB2 PQ style headunit. This means that swapping headunits is more complicated due to component protection (CP - anti-theft) and SWaP/FeC codes (feature enablement). CP can be done by a dealer but they will only be able to reactivate features enabled for your VIN so I don't think satnav will work. The alternative is a hacked/patched headunit, this is where CP and been disabled and all features have been activated by modifying the headunit software. You're probably looking at around £400-600 for such a headunit and you'll need to add a GPS antenna too. Pab567 is a popular source for these on Briskoda. Personally, if you have a smartphone, I'd suggest either Android Auto or CarPlay to connect your phone via USB. This should let you use Apple maps, Google maps, Waze etc on the headunit and benefit from live traffic and the latest mapping. If your headunit hasn't got SmartLink activated, a dealer can activate it for around £150 if I remember correctly

Just as an FYI, the H7 HID kits aren't road legal and may cause your car to fail the MOT. If you want to retrofit factory xenon's properly, you'll need two original xenon headlights, a range controller with level sensors and headlight washers. As the pre-FL cars are getting on a bit now, you might find the projector reflector surface has become discoloured or dulled. If this is the case then a new set of quality projectors should help improve light output

Nope but probably the easiest. You might be able to find Elsawin somewhere but as it's pirated software it may be riddled with bugs and viruses...

Official source is: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

You can share it with specific people and make the link restricted - you'll need both the link and to be on the 'allowed list' to view:

You can but if you use navigation on your mobile, it blocks the map display. However you can use the inbuilt nav and have waze up (not navigating). At least that's been my experience 👍

Is that date the same as the 'delivery date' in the 'vehicle-specific information' data with the PR-codes? Just curious

If you have a Columbus, it can be displayed on both at the same time. If you have an Amundsen, I believe it can only be shown on one at a time :(

As above, pretty sure it should charge from the car. They have a service life of 5-6 years. At this point the entire alarm siren needs to be replaced as the battery is not a user serviceable component. Some people have split the alarm siren to remove and replace the battery depending on the condition of the PCB

Nope, it's designed for a dual filament H15 and nothing else. I've no idea of what shops are in India so if you can't find one in a normal garage or shop, as a last resort, I'd suggest going to a Skoda or VW dealer to order the bulb.

Pretty sure they've removed the service record access. No idea if it'll be back in a future version, hope so as it's about the only useful thing the app did for me!

As above, where did you buy the car from? If things have been messed with, then ideally, you want it to go to a Skoda dealer who can reset all the modules to the original factory settings. At least then you know it's in a sensible configuration to start with. - If you bought it from a Skoda dealer, I'd expect them to do it. - A non-Skoda dealer should pay for a Skoda specialist with Fazit/Geko access to sort it. - If it's a private seller, it might be worth asking if there aware of any changes made in the hope they have a list of what was done. Saying that, disabling the interior lights is a very odd tweak... Not sure why anyone would do that so I'm a little dubious of the diagnosis.

There should be a model number under settings, system information I think? Try posting that

On a 2021 car, I would not expect to need the separate module for moving guidelines. Instead, the camera itself will have a CAN-bus connection and create the moving lines. It will be a very similar fitting to the MQB Octavia, there is a Chinese and genuine camera mentioned in this thread: First question is what headunit do you have? Do you have a MIB2/2.5 or a MIB3? I only ask as I've not seen much info on the MIB3 units so the guide may not be ideal.

Your picture shows a 5Q0 035 874 C, this is a MIB2/MIB2.5 Amundsen You can get later maps from VW, it a Discover Media as fitted to a Golf from 2017. Current AS and EU1 map links below: - https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_1520_V13.7z - https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_1520_V13.7z Yes.

At a guess, it probably has a different shape around the headlight given they change between the pre-fl and fl.

Some people have massive issues with SuperSkoda, might be worth trying to contact them? Not that it helps, but I made an order on Nov 22nd and it arrived on Nov 26th, well packed and exactly what I'd ordered.

You have an Amundsen so you'll need an official Skoda SD card for the maps. You can use any SD card for the firmware update though

When I bought my used vRS 245 in August, the dealer had 6-7 in stock. A week later they were all sold... Guess you need to time it right with the end of leases and people handing them back. Nice easy sale for you though!

It depends what system your wife's car has. Indirect systems don't have physical pressure sensors, instead they rely on rotational differences between the wheels (via the ABS sensors) so would just need resetting. Direct systems like the OP has fitted need physical sensors so either new sensors or moving them from the other rims. That'll just depend. The style the OP has fitted are pretty clever, it uses a combination of signal strength and rotation direction to figure out which wheel they are fitted on. They can be moved around the car or even fitted to other cars and the TPMS module figures it out pretty quickly. There is no pairing so after a short drive it should pick up after a summer/winter tyre/sensor swap. When I did fitted a similar TPMS system to my old Octavia, I bought sensors from 3 different suppliers and the module found them without any user intervention However, other systems (for instance the VAG orange sensors) need coding using a TPMS tool and then fitting to a specific wheel. The Chinese systems are also typically designed for a specific sensor in each wheel. Other manufactures probably have their own (similar) systems so without knowing your Wife's car, it's hard to give specific advice

If the coolant temperature gauge is above 90'C, I'd say you have a problem. The gauge doesn't tell you the true temperature so any time it's above 90'C means something is wrong unless you're putting massive load on the engine for a sustained period of time. Seems very unlikely in or around Crouch End during Winter to produce that kind of load. A DPF issue shouldn't cause three warning lights immediately, first you should get a single 'DPF' light showing. At this point you should do a regeneration drive (not a flogging), as described in the owners manual. If you never had only the DPF light showing, then you may have another problem. You also mention a DPF sensor over voltage? That could cause DPF issues too although you've not mentioned which sensor. Might be worth finding a VAG/Skoda specialist who knows about DPF systems to check the car over. Certainly feels like the DPF blockage is a symptom of an actual problem rather than just London driving.

Power is up to you, I'd probably give it's own feed but if you fit it near the amp in the boot, splitting the amp supply should be fine. Correct about the speakers, headunit to DSP (via the labelled wires on the 20pin connector), then DSP to amp via RCA (low level). The only other obvious thing would be what's going to turn the DSP on/off. Looks like it can either use: - switched ignition feed to 'key mem' - remote to 'rem in' - auto on/off based on when it sees an audio signal You might want to take a look at what turns the amp on and off for ideas to which is best. I've no idea how good the auto on/off is. Finally, it states "WARNING: the bit Ten must be switched on before any amplifiers are turned on". Based on that, you probably want a wire between DSP 'rem out' to the amps remote on? At least that would be my understanding based on the manual