26DIPP

For at least 15 years the insurance companies were TOLD that they do not charge extra for winter tyres/wheels as long as the wheels andtyres are o.k. for the model.

When you start and accelerate the Haldex Gen 4 automatically kicks in. Also when there is slip at the front.

The seat belt real is behind the seat cover. You can get to it from the boot. The real is right at the top. If your seat belt moves a little put silicone oil onto the belt and let it go back. It might loosen and unwind easier.

If the wiring diagram is correct, it is a white / black wire. Driver door contact_2.pdf

What??? For the armoured vehicles and tanks??

Looking for all season tyres for a Fabia II in 205/45-16. Unfortunately it is not a very common tyre size and the choice is limited. I do not want to go for low budget ones. There are 2 to choose from: the Vredestein Quatrac and the Toyo Celsius. I like the fact that the Toyo is an asymmetric tyre and you are not left with 2 left and 2 right tyres. Test reports are very similar for both. Has anyone used the Toyo Celsius?

The guy in the video repairs Cat cars and has described a way to reverse a crash fault. I have used BBA reman before. http://www.bba-reman.com/gb/index.aspx

I just specced an SEL with TDI 4x4 DSG similar to L&K and the SEL come out at £49500, The L&K is on FWD and is a mere £44500. I then specced an Audi A6 Avant quattro black edition and that came out at £54000, but you get fat 20" wheels, but no heated windscreen and no heated rear seats. Skoda is really trying to go upmarket - pricewise.

My daughter's FII had some strange central locking behaviour recently. The car would just lock and unlock at will. This wasrelated to the passenger lock. One of the microswitches started to have a life of its own. I took the lock apart and changed the switches arouns. Might be worth looking at the boot lock's inners. I left a thread further down.

This is all a bit child's play, BUT if the roles had been reversed with Hamilton on the outside and on the trajectory into the tyres he would have been the first and also loudest to whinge and complain......

Ethel, What was the engine code of your Octavia? Did you try Skoda? Or did you go straight to an independant? I am ony asking because I contacted Skoda parts so far - and waiting for the repairshop to call back - and Skoda's reply was that there is no repair kit, i.e. replacement actuator for the CR 170 CFGB engine, which uses the Honeywell / Garrett turbo. There is an official Skoda kit for the Borgwarner on the CR 140 engine. There are however actuators for the CR170 from "independant" manufacturers. Skoda parts suggested they would prop a complete new turbo for a couple og grand in.

The fault came back. DTC 9126 and 9127 - turbocharger 1 stuck. I did not have a problem all winter - basically since September 2020, but then I did not drive much. Reading accross forums someone suggested that this error sometimes occurrs when the actuator heats up too much, and I only have the problem when driving on a really hot day. I looked into solutions - it looks as if the actuator needs to be replaced. Has anyone replaced an actuator on a CFGB engine? It seems like you need small womens' or children's hands on top of a couple of odd shaped spanners. With access this looks quite straight forward. Which turbocharger is bolted onto the CFGB, a garrett or borgwarner one?

Skoda have dropped the 4x4 TDI from the L&K engines / options list and only offer it on the SEL. Strange enough they still sell the 280TSI with 4x4. Is there a logic to this decision? Is the TDI 4x4 regarded as work horse and not good enough for the Superb anymore? The Kodiaq as a "proper" off roader is still being offered with a this combinations.

If some modules in your car have stored a DTC it can disable the cruise control. You have to read and clear the faults.

It only costs you a few pounds for one hour and you download whatever you want. Alternatively you can find and download older VAG files on various sites on the net. It is just more effort to do.

The door lock played up again, so it was time for a more serious look. I opened up the door to get the lock out. The next step was to examine the lock. To open it you separate the mechanical part from the electrical. In the electrical I took 1x T15 torx and several T10 Torx out and you can open it up. I reconnected the lock and played with the microswitches to figure out which one was playing up. The one circled seems to register the open and close states and this one was faulty. I am not sure what the other does because it does not make an obvious contact. As I had ordered the door contact one on the outside but none of these I decided to just desolder both and swap them. On the other side of the circuit board you can see that both switches have 3 pins and while switch 1 uses pins 1 and 2 the other uses 1 and 3. Both switches use different pins and I hope that by swapping them the so far unused contacts inside will work. Resoldered and I connected just the circuit board and it functions as it should. Fitting is just the reverse of opening the door.

The correct way to upgrade security would have been to measure signal time rather than the static fob way. When you are moving only slightly the fob is still sending and with a range extender your car can still be driven away.

The Maxidot on the pre FL does not have a temp. display.

I have not had uneven wear on the tyres on the 4x4 or a slave cylinder fail. The brake cylinder is pot luck. Happened on my daughter's car after 11 year and 90000 miles.

My daughter's FII had broken wires in the passenger door boot and I fixed it by soldering them. This way I had less material inside the boot - and I only did the broken ones.

I would look at the connector again. I had problems plugging in connectors after rewiring some terminals. If you cannot fit the connector look at the terminal wires again. One might not be fitted properly or slightly bent - even with the best care. I would also consider looking at the other front door and compare before trying to remove the door. Did you manage to fix the broken wire/s in the end? You did not say in the first thread what function was gone - unless I overread it.

Not much that needs changing, but I would have bought one with the bits I added - High line RVC, High beam assist, heated washer jets. And I would have preferred a different electric control to retract the wing mirrors.

To go back to the query... you will be limited to a shorter up to 140cm box and move it forward unless you want to loose the opening of your boot. You can remove the arial, but I would only slide the box back as far as the tailgate still having a decent opening and ideally not clash with the box on top. If you have the box overhanging the windscreen, you will notice that the box swings quite a bit with wind and any road bumps.

My daughter's car was doing just that and more. I left a thread response here omewhere recently. I read that it should be one of the microswitches in the door lock / latch. I used a screw driver and closed the opened door lock which provoked the fault - locking / clicking / unlocking of all other doors and no display on the dash. I took the lock out to check the model and also clean it. I only applied some more grease to one of the micro switches and the problems have disappeared - at least for the last 3 weeks ..... In preparation for the return I bought a microswitch as replacement on Aliexpress which is sitting in the drawer now. To distinguish between switch and broken wires in the rubber boot inside the opened door, wiggle on the wires which should provoke the fault.

If you go for a petrol TFSI avoid the ones that have a high engine oil consumption.