TheClient

Just thinking a bit more. With that strut pinch bolt. A screw extractor may work if you can a largish dia screwed in then counter hold. And try to remove the nut end. The nut is a nylon lock nut from memory.

It wasn't your day yesterday. I hate those days. Wish you'd never started. Spectators complaining you said the job would take 1.5 hours. Etc etc. A few responses. 1. The strut pinch bolt? The bolt will be a dedicated vag bolt N number. I'll look up for you. If you want in a hurry dealer or vag bolts on ebay will sell them but obviously, post has been slow slow of late. Pretty sure I kept my old ones. Not that you are supposed to re-use. 2. Not sure you can protect. Any chance you could drill in a screw extractor, they Tighten in reverse direction. But bit concerned you would also break that. You reckon it is on corrosion. Have you sprayed penetrative oil? 3. At the gearbox end the drive shaft just ends with a blanking plate once you remove all those bots and joining plates, no? Fwiw, when pull out front struts I use the 2x4 method. It is frowned on by some but in the driveway with limited tooling I find it the most efficient least likely to run into a problem method. I don't remove wheel bearing bolts, only the strut pinch bolt, sway bar drop link bolts, strut upper bolts. Everything else stays put. You do have to get the lower hub assbly at quite an angle to clear the bottom of the knuckle but it will clear with help of wd40 and a soft mallet invaluable

Good points. Start at the basics again. Mine certainly isn't totally quite even on light throttle, trailing throttle I get hydraulic sort of noises fade in and out. Possibly to do with pump pressure regulation. I notice them, my wife has never really noticed them. Different people have different attention levels. What sort of noise is it?

Seems you will not be alone. 6500. Well then, merry Christmas! Could be woth phoning a specialist transmission/ differential place but rebuilding it according to this one thread comment is limited. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=86&t=1976055

Wow Thanks for replying back. That abs connection **** up is a bad one!!

There's some truth in the comments - having come from oz and had holdens and even Hondas in the late 80s and 90s quite often you could get pads replaced and skim the discs. This could often be done several times on pad replacement or even between, when run out required it. Had a vl commodore that always needed discs machining due to pedal pulsation. No idea why it was so susceptible, anyway I digress.. Nowadays esp on European make cars anyway, as you'll see from the specs 1mm or 1.5mm mm wear allowance on each face, generally you'll find your pretty close to that by the time the pads are gone.. Plus with salt on roads here they get eaten from inside out as well on vented rotors (discs) as well. Almost always replace with pad changes here for those reasons. I'm not sure if different pad comp material is used on Australasia destined vag export vehicles or not, I'd doubt it. Dealer prices are pretty steep here for pads and discs although they do usually fix price it so you can shop around. A good independent with aftermarket parts probably half the cost. Less if you can do it yourself and avoid labour.

I guess you could ask for the written comms record to get a bit more visibility of the issue they discussed. Although I suspect even in those comms the actual issue might be light on detail... more discussion on how little to contribute. Still, OP, sometimes you are best to move on...

Yeah. Hard to fight now and hard to understand what the actual issues is / was. Unless you asked for said replaced turbo. This will not make you feel better and it's a true story on these very forums on a mk2fl vrs skoda wanted to replace the turbo because the vband clamp had broken. "Can't get part separately according to etka" replace turbo required. ... £10 from an online turbo repair place and half an hours work at an independent shop and car fixed. That poster was pretty happy to have asked on here!! For this reason you can't take all their advice as gospel or indeed the best course of action, unfortunately. BtW what engine/ model Oct are we talking about here?

There's a pretty good field for compatible engine codes in the listings though. The bosch v valeo will just be alternate OEMs. So either will work. OP: Armed with your engine code it should narrow the OPs options . You could use an inspection mirror on the back side of the alternator to try to get a photo of the original sticker. Unless there are heated seats or some other high current option, it will likely be the std 140A PR-8GU units. once youve got the oem code then there will be a proliferation of aftermarkets that will work.... Like for my car, Lucas LRA03658, cross references HX (along with others).

the genuine prices look very pricey. And not sure why some alternative with same output but different manufacturer are like £400 more than the other one. Even on autodoc the hellas are about £450.... But I did find opie oils listing this hella at £240, seems very reasonable. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-217059-hella-alternator-14v-140a-8el-015-630-041.aspx HX - valeo equiv.

Seems a little early. But could be just brushes or the freewheel hub. A replacement aftermarket is going to be circa £250 minimum possibly with requirement of your unit back. Eurocarparts gsf have elstock, lucas. I'd rather a hella unit myself. If you can diagnose yours, it can be better to repair than get reco exchange units.

Few options. Check a part listing like 7zap, although if there have been superseding part numbers, being free it doesn't usually show the latest part. Accross mqb cars, alternators are pretty standard and usually 140a or 180a depending on options. The higher output for options like heated seats.. Put your reg in eurocarparts or gsf. Or call the.. their online parts checker are usually OK but can fail to pin point exact variations based on car spec. How many miles has car done? 2017 model right? Edit: On the full list of vehicle option pr codes. 8GU is 140a

As above. The FP activation is the low pressure lift pump under rear seats. Suspect you have a wire fault, earth point fault or connector plug fault somewhere. Does anything electrically not work. If so. Start there. Otherwise indicator loom I guess I would start testing. Maybe fuel pump loom as well if no joy.

Almost certain intake port and valve carbon build up.

Hydraulic Tappets was another thought I had but I've never heard then that bad. The trouble with diag on chain tensioner most of it is non definitive. The only two definitive tests are measure accross top timing marks for chain stretch. With bottom cover removed make sure chain is not slack!!! Everything else is only persuasive....

Ok. That is the sort of mileage you might expect to replace chain and tensioner - preventatively Yes, that was my point re the wire clip ring. It looks like it should now be 2 rings closer to the left hand side - it does to me anyway, if it is doing what I think it is. Replacing the old style ratchet.... Or is there a ratchet mechanism still in there - I doubt it? Technician says wrong tensioner? Why? Yes, if your car has been on long life, it can contribute to chain wear / stretch and earlier failure. On measuring the phase adjustment - the car will not provide a reading when first started, it has to idle down to normal 800rpm +-50 or there abouts. On balance I would say based on what I hear and the mileage, that chain and tensioner need replacing. You could take the top cover off. It is refittable. You can get a new seal but it should be ok. You could then try to lift the chain on the leading side of the sprocket but there is not a lot of room. You can also do the measurements between timing marks. Beyond that it is bottom cover off and a lot more work and bottom cover needs replacing and at that point you may as well replace the tensioner and chain at that point having got that far...

Yes. Familiar with that. I had the old design in a gen 2 ea888 in a vrs mk2 facelift. Same engine as mk6 gti. Had the tensioner and chain updated yo revised spec. One of the biggest failures on the old design was the teeth of the ratchet retention failing. Or the band clip that held said teeth in. These locked the tensioner out when no oil pressure (I.e) engine off, to keep tension at startup. This is a gen 3 and the new design tensioner. It doesn't have the old rubbish design ratchet. These have limited problems reported but not out of the question to encounter some problem, especially beyond 100k miles or if timing chain stretch is an issue earlier. It would concern me that there is not enough tension being retained on the rail when engine is off. That's why the sound goes away as soon as hydraulic pressure builds. But if that is the case, and the noise is not something else, it leaves the engine at high risk of skipping chain teeth at startup.. that is how many, many gtis and vRSs died with the old tensioner. Everything was fine until startup one day then - she's dead....

Yeah ok, a sort of fail safe lock wire to stop the tensioner fully retracting in event of no hydraulic pressure. Good photo of yours, never easy in there. If properly set up when new, according to those instructions, pull spring clip as far back as you can whilst applying pressure to both side rails to tension chain, i guess it shows your chain has stretched 2 tensioner clicks since installed. Anyway, how many miles on your car? Is itv original chain and tensioner? The indicator as far as parameters is concerned is the phase adaption correction. I'd be most surprised if it was zero . I've never seen one at zero. Mine on a 70k mile gen 3 is at 2.2 to 2.4. It can vary slightly after fully warming up. Fyi. The intake and exhaust adaption values is to do with the variator for vvt. If you rev car, they should change. If it has vvt on both intake and exhaust.

It doesn't sound great that's for sure. Why are you so sure it's at position 3? Are you sure the tensioner is actually placing tension on the guide rail when engine is not running? Related question. What is the wire around the tensioner ratchet teeth, that not the ratchet mechanism is it?

The consumer rights act recourse after 6 months is not quite as literal as you might assume. The principles that underpin it are as described, satisfactory quality and fitness for purpose. Certainly things are more straight forward within 6 months. There's not much onus on the purchaser to prove anything other than show the faulty item / behaviour. After 6 months, the onus falls to the purchaser to prove. But that doesn't mean you need a scan at putchase date showing that very same fault was always present, sure that would do it, but my opinion is it is more open than that. So, for example, if there is a design or manufacture issue that causes a reasonable number of vehicles to fail in the same way, prematurely, and a tpi might go part way in establishing that, then the fault was a vulnerability from purchase, and it was just a question of when... so you could say the fault vulnerability was present from outset. I don't think a failure of that magnitude within a( few years?) Of your purchasng it, show the product was fit for purpose at sale. You can try and put this to your selling dealer yourself and guage response. Some sort of engineers report acknowledging the issue is a known early failure item would help establish the requirements of the act. If they play hardball then a lawyer's letter, small claims court process may assist if the facts support recourse.. of course if they are resistant you have to way up the hassle factor and time and take a call.... https://www.theaa.com/car-buying/legal-rights

Yes. On the timing chain If its replaced you should be able to rely on another 60k miles maybe 100k miles. No on scraper rings. Early stages hard to tell. Driving 1000 miles best test. Plugs and oil spill around filer tell tale signs but unreliable to diagnose...

A slightly different angle to answer your question "are they responsible". If you're dealing with the selling dealer to you, from 5 years ago, consumer rights act is 6 years for fitness for purpose, satisfactory quality. I'd sat rust, blistering paint is not either of those so I'd try again with the selling dealer. And make it clear it is their dealership not "skoda" who are responsible. Some good info in threads referred by @toot. That's another angle but paint / corrosion has always been one of those inconsistent treatment areas. I.e. you never really know how one case is dealt with compared to the next...

Need to look for where source is really to comment. For example that is the side of oil fill cap, and they are a cr@p design to fill, easy to overspill. Oil then runs down side of engine and drips off sump lip. On the other hand there is also oil filter housing, oil filter bracket, oil cooler in the locale as well.

Sounds like you are almost there! If you have part number or car detail, model, year, engine I could check but say if £350 at a skoda dealer I doubt LLLP would be less than £300 at best so still a big outlay. Maybe carry on with your adjustment and refurb work.

You can adjust output to 0% with a coding tool which effectively turns it off. You could also unplug, but it will more than likely throw a fault code on a full scan.