Warrior193

The real thing to ask though is why the brake pedal is being pressed so hard to bring about these ABS interventions? Unless driving too fast for the existing conditions, encountering unusually slick road conditions (diesel spill, ice, etc) or being suddenly presented with an unexpected hazard, it should not be necessary to press the brake pedal so hard that ABS is triggered.

If the tyre pressures are equally high - and remain within the detection tolerances of the TPMS from when they were last set, raised pressures will not trigger the alarm on a indirect system. Indirect TPMS detects changes relative to the other tyres.

I believe that what JR is saying is ABS will intervene any time the brakes are applied hard to reduce risk of control loss through wheel locking. No matter what speed, the vehicle could be travelling in slippery conditions, which could lead to loss of control through hard brake application without intervention. I've had full ABS mode operate a couple of times at around 10 to 15 MPH when front assist has detected a possible collision risk.

Unfortunately, no help from our 2018 110PS - for confirmation, assuming yours is a RHD vehicle - is this component in the vicinity of the offside engine mount?

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'll take a look at SWMBOs Fabia tomorrow - is this a 95 or 110PS, what year?

I'd lay good odds that you are not the first to get caught on that one.

Indirect TPMS uses signals from the ABS wheel sensors to compare the relative rotation of each wheel - if a tyre loses pressure, its circumference reduces, resulting in a change to its rotational speed in relation to the other wheels. The system can also be triggered by increases in pressure caused by an rise in temperature in one (or more) tyre. Presumably, the system averages-out the normal differences in wheel rotational speeds resulting from cornering.

A thought occurs, it would be worth first just unclipping the sensor plug, removing then refitting - it might be sufficient to clean the connections if that was causing the problem.

One of the main reasons for the smart alternator control is to allow headspace in battery capacity to allow for energy recuperation while braking or in overrun. Together with automatic Stop-Start, this allowed the vehicle to be classed as a micro-hybrid.

Have you tried a different Stealer?

I suspect that this will require an enable code (SWAP?) to be purchased from a Stealer.

@Jus Do you have an update on your brake fault yet?

The contamination looked more like scaling to me, I'd have expected to see noticeable discolouration of the coolant if oil was present. If, on inspection, it is found to be caused by scale, I would strongly recommend a full coolant change.

Of course, H.I. is better than A.I. any day.

Unfortunately, it is likely that the mounting brackets for the radar sensor have been broken, can be confirmed by gently pushing against the front of the sensor. If this is the case, it will require replacement of the brackets and recalibration of the radar. AFAIK, front assist not being available will also affect cruise control.

In all the EV tanks I've seen, the probe section is an integral part of the tank - the wiring connector plugs into the receptacle on the tank.

That looks rather like a small Lola 👍 What provides the horses?

Something in my memory that VAG changed the oil spec around 2019 - 2020. It was purely for a very slight improvement in emissions.

From your tag, do I correctly guess that you run a hillclimber?

I'd take odds on a Stealer not being able to give a sensible answer on towing tyre pressures. The pressures on the vehicles tyre data plate will be perfectly safe - but if you are still seeking reassurance, try asking on one of the caravanning forums. One problem with modern, low profile tyres, is that the sidewalls don't give a clear visual picture that the pressure is correct for the load.

Is the racecar trailer single or twin axle? It could very easily be, your 60kg toolbox in the trunk and, likely, up to 50kg nose weight - out past the rear bumper, will really load up the rears.

Assuming that you have the tyre pressure label inside the fuel flap, I'd suggest the fully-loaded pressures displayed, particularly for the rears, for your tyre size as a starting point.

IIRC, it is simply a caution that the deadlocks (safelock) will operate if you lock the vehicle - the caution being flagged if any passengers are going to remain in the vehicle, in which case deadlocks should be disabled.

I checked the Opie Oil website, according to them the oil you have (5W-30 VW504/507) is correct.

Good evening Jimmy, welcome to the forum. You can use either of the two grades for your engine - the 0-30 grade is purely an attempt by VAG to get a very slightly lower emissions rating for the vehicle. I need to check though on the VW504/507 certification - I thought it was /508 for the TDI. As Arnie said - I'll be back.