Warrior193

I suggest checking all wheel hubs for unusual heating after driving a few kilometres - preferably somewhere where hard braking is not required.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Have you checked for binding brakes?

If the replacement battery is exactly the same type and specification as the old one, the only important data to change is the battery serial number - which can simply be the original number with the last digit changed. Battery brand code is not important. Only critical data is capacity (in AHs), battery type (EFB/AGM) and serial number. Changing the serial number tells the battery monitoring module that the battery has been changed, and any existing battery faults registered will be deleted, allowing the charging system to operate normally.

I'd suggest having a compression test done. How long have you owned it?

As the Webasto system can be specified as an option in your country, pretty unlikely to cause an issue with DTCs. From my knowledge of electric block heaters in Canada, non-circulation of heated coolant is not an issue - there should only be a very short delay for the block coolant to reach the heater battery once the engine has started.

There is a Webasto kit, but IIRC it's not available as an option for RHD vehicles. You could try one of the retro-fitters. One member on here has fitted one of these himself - I cannot remember the build topic title at the moment.

Worrying that it seems even the G3 version may be prone to the earlier Ea888 oil consumption issues. @s88urd what mileage is on the odo?

Are the tyres you have fitted the correct size? - have they been changed recently?

ACT = Active Cylinder Technology - where two cylinders are deactivated under light load conditions, with the engine running on two cylinders only.

Yes, unless the present battery has an internal dead short (which does not sound to be the case) Is it the case that you have not seen any charging system fault indications recently (red battery symbol) - apart from when you first switch on the ignition?

The 'battery indicator' you mention does not indicate state of charge (SOC) - it merely indicates the electrolyte level in one of the centre cells. Do you have a test meter to check the battery voltage? Is the battery original?

While not absolutely essential if exact replacement, it is possible that the new battery may not charge correctly if faults have been recorded against the original. Battery adaptation is done via VCDS device or similar, there is a register on the forum of members who may be near you and able to do it at minimal cost.

No radio code required. Any new battery should be adapted (coded) into system so that any charge-limiting faults recorded for the old battery are removed. Battery adaptation should still be done, even if replacement is exactly the same specification as old one - in which case, a minor change to recorded battery serial number will suffice. Suggest getting the old battery tested first. Check with your intended battery fitter that they have the necessary equipment to do the battery adaptation.

Hello, welcome to the forum. If the wheels and monitoring system are original, almost certain that TPMS will be indirect type (through ABS sensors)

Not Full to 1/2 tank - OP says 'Tank nearly empty' after less than 50 miles!

If the fuel use the OP quotes is being burnt in the engine, it should be running so poorly as to be undriveable - I doubt a mixture that rich would even ignite due to plug wetting.

Persistent fuel theft over a 9 month period seems unlikely, in any case, effective anti-syphon traps in the filler are pretty standard nowadays.

I'd originally assumed similar to Mk3, but several sources quote fuel capacity as 55 L for the Mk2.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Does the engine appear to run normally at present? Are there any signs of leakage or smell of fuel? Do you completely fill the tank each week - how many litres does it take to fill? It would be almost unbelievable if you are using 40 - 45 litres for less than 50 miles per week (equating to around 1.25 miles per litre)

It's the 'battery' symbol (red) warning indicator light in the instrument cluster.

My understanding is that PPF regeneration differs considerably from DPF - the PPF regeneration is carried out during closed throttle overrun - so, unlike a diesel, it is unlikely for the engine to smell unusually hot after a regen.

The failure of the aux. belt could very likely be the source of your original 'burning rubber smell' - did you not notice the alternator failure warning light?

Your latest fault is almost certainly battery condition or SOC related. How old is your battery? There should be a date stamp on the top surface of the negative terminal (WWYY)

Hello, welcome to the forum. Has it been confirmed that the battery is discharging overnight? Multiple, seemingly unrelated fault indications are a common issue if battery voltage goes too low. If battery is discharging overnight while vehicle is shut down (and nothing has been left switched on) it is possible that you have a parasitic load, where one, or several of the control modules are not going into sleep mode correctly.

Are you having to 'slip' the clutch while you are reversing?