Warrior193

Provided the indicator lights do extinguish when the engine is started, nothing to be concerned with - normal operation.

If ACC is particularly important to you, a retrofit is usually possible and may be worth considering.

In your case, at the very least insist that your fault complaint is recorded as having occurred before expiration of warranty. Given the known nature of this fault, personally, I'd be insisting of more extensive test by the dealer.

It may seem rather improbable, but it will be interesting if your fuelling issue goes away after the rear spring replacement.

It would be best to get the battery properly tested first before considering replacement. Does the engine appear to crank at normal speed when it fails to start? I'm concerned about your reference to jump-starting another vehicle before this issue first occurred, are you certain that you followed the correct procedure when you did this?

Did the RAC responder actually test the battery?

'Voltage terminal 15: 11.3V' looks low - does stop/start work, have you had the battery tested?

Is this a TDI @Jd89?

I believe that is the turbo actuator - unlikely to be the cause of your excessive oil use, does there appear to be low power output from engine?.

Hello Lukos, welcome to the forum. The 'engine must be running' message just means that the automatic idle stop function has been inhibited and the engine will remain running - there can be a number of reasons for this; low battery charge state/high electrical load, low or high cabin temperature, etc. A failing crankshaft position sensor (not camshaft) can apparently cause your symptoms - and may not log a DTC code.

Does the rear of the vehicle appear to squat excessively when the van is hooked up? The 'clunk' could possibly be from the rear bump stops.

That sounds like clutch-drag from plate not releasing fully - or contamination of clutch lining.

In that case, I suggest you look for a good independent garage.

Provided there is ample tread and the rubber is not displaying signs of significant degradation, there is no need to replace tyres, based on age, below around 10 years.

Unless you intend to change the rims as well, you will have to use R16 tyres.

As the fault can be caused by either a failing slave or master cylinder, suggest that your dealer workshop replaces the master cylinder first - that is a simple job not requiring removal of the gearbox.

Hello S W, is yours the 110 PS engine?

When this latest failure to fill happened, did you try rocking the vehicle to see if that cleared the filler tube?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Did you inspect the old spark plugs - particularly number 3, how did they look? Suggest a compression test as the next step.

It is actually a statutory requirement in the UK to indicate lane changes - especially on motorways.

Personally, I'd go for the higher speed rating if that price is correct. My money's on the difference in ride comfort being indistinguishable.

Southern Comfort was commenting on the common practice in the UK of not indicating lane changes (and its consequent impact on lane assist) I was agreeing, and added that even if you don't think there is a vehicle following, there is a reason for the mandatory requirement in the UK to indicate lane changes.

^^^^^^ + this, and then there is the 'vehicle in blind spot' scenario. I loose count of many times I have to brake in lane 3-4 when someone pulls out in front of me from lane 2-3 without indicating.

Hello, they aren't clutch specialists, but I could recommend giving Chamberlains (020 8399 2000) a call if they're not too far from you. They're just off the A3 in New Malden.

Hello, welcome to the forum. From that schematic, it looks like you also need parts 16 and 17 - 16 looks like a hexagon plug.