Alasdair1

It could be as simple as a failed LED or dry joint on circuit board. Not sure how you would test it though. Alasdair

If yours has a DMF then it could very well be flywheel thats causing rattle/shaking. If its a solid flywheel it may be the clutch release bearing or clutch related. As you said it may also be the input shaft bearing. If its any of the above I reckon the Gbox would have to come out to check. Alasdair.

My 1.6tdi fans come on after stopping car. I have been told its probably due to a failed dpf regen. Took it out for a decent run and it stopped doing it. Alasdair

Found this on here. It may be of some help . The most common ones are in the engine compartment. Check that the fuel pump in tank is actually running as well. Think its accesible under rear seats. Check the wirin and connector there to as my sons fabia had worn through. Alasdair

I agree with above. Sounds like a fuel/relay/wiring problem. Pulled this from rostech P0091/000145 - Valve for Fuel Metering (N290): Short to GroundPossible SymptomsMalfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON No start or performance problem(s) Possible CausesWiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Transfer Fuel Pump (G6) -or- Fuel Pump (FP) Control Module (J538) faulty. Transfer Fuel Pump (G6) faulty. See Special Notes Fuel Pump (FP) Control Module (J538) faulty. Possible SolutionsCheck Fuse(s), Wiring and/or Connector(s). Check/Replace Transfer Fuel Pump (G6). See Special Notes Check/Replace Fuel Pump (FP) Control Module (J538).

I would get it scanned again and see if theres any problem with ABS sensors.Hopefully one is failing and causing ASR light to come on. Not sure if the traction control has its own fuse? Check the fuses if it has and their making good contact plus also the strip fuses near battery. They can develop hairline cracks that arent very noticeable.Another thing to check is the bearings. My sons old fabia pinged up ABS fault due to a worn hub bearing.

Might be worth checking voltage at rest and voltage when car running anyway just to check the alternator is charging battery properly. Whats your new problem? Alasdair

If you have a battery charger put it on battery overnight and check voltage across battery in morning and see if it makes a difference. As previously said a year old battery as long as its the correct one shouldnt be the problem but its not unknown to get a battery that fails prematurely. Battery should read voltage aprox as follows Engine running: 13.8−14.5 volts Engine at rest (fully charged): 12.6 -12.8 volts

If it clicks from alternator it may be a poor connection at alternator or bad chassis earth or coroded/dirty battery terminals. Sometimes a connection will fail when it starts to warm up. It may also be a low/failing battery. It just takes one cell to be poor and the battery wont hold a proper charge. enough to start but not being charged enough to restart after a short journey. Check as well that the battery light illuminates at pre ignition and goes off when car is running. Alasdair

G12+ should be compatible with G12. I think its newer but backwards compatible. Saying that if yours is brownish in colour it could probably do with a flush and a change anyway. Not sure when your timing belt etc needs changed. If its fairly soon you could get a coolant change at the same time. On my 1.9tdi it requires draining anyway to do the waterpump and belt.

Check the bulbs. Its very unusual for both to fail at the one time but I have had both headlight bulbs blow together so not impossible. I have a vague memory of the side lights not having a fuse on my MK2 Think they are controlled via BCM body control module Black box above pedals. Alasdair

My octavia is the same. I bought a new aftermarket expansion tank for around £15 . Never got round to changing it as the scrape on the prongs worked. Alasdair

Also have found that KYB seem to be painted better and take longer to start rusting. Might as well do the top mounts while you are at it and maybe springs depending on their condition. Alasdair

I have been using KYB with no problems for years. Used them on a wide range of vehicles and so far very happy with the quality and fit plus they seem to last. Not sure who actually makes OEM skoda but have read on here of quite a few genuine skoda shocks that have started misting after only a couple of years. Its funny how the originals last 60-100K but so called genuine parts dont last nearly as long. Alasdair

You would be better going to a breaker. Cant see a new one from a dealer being cheap. Looked into replacing front plastic lenses on my sons MK1 but couldnt find a supplier plus they are glued on. Think there are aftermarket ones available but they may look slightly different? Watch autodoc etc as they will be LHD units. Alasdair

If its from a reputable dealer and they will agree to fix it/give you waranty then fine. If its a private sale I would look for another car unless they offer you a decent discount to cover diagnosis and repair.

Whats the air filter like? Try running it without. Alasdair

May be an airlock somewhere. Could be in the heater matrix Alasdair

Sorry no idea what it would cost. I do all my own mechanics so a bit out of touch re costs but if its a valve stem seal then I assume labour charge will be more than parts. If its a bad piston ring then thats another ballgame. Probably cheaper sourcing a second hand low mileage engine as original would have to be removed and stripped down and rebuilt. Had a broken valve spring years ago and my local goto garage managed to repair it without head removal. If its the stem seals then hopefully they have a special tool that can compress valves in situ and repair. In my casemy local mechanic friend fed soft string through spark plug hole then turned engine over by hand to carefully jam valves so he could compress spring and remove broken one. Good luck and hopefully its something cheap and simple. It might be worth getting them to try and diagnose the problem first. Tell them if its going to cost a fortune to call you first before going ahead with repair.

From memory my folks mk1 1.9tdi had 90amp but it was fairly basic with no extras so current load was fairly low. Check its not a clutch pulley as I think the diesels had them where as far as I know petrols didnt Alasdair

It could also be a leaking valve stem seal. Think you need to do a leak down test to check but that may not pick up a bad stem seal as the valves are closed. From memory blue smoke only at start up from cold after sitting for a good while may point to a failed stem seal. Blue smoke while driving after warm up is usually worn piston rings. Alasdair

I have been using Tayna batteries. Delivery is quick and prices not too bad. The delivery charge is high if your ordering larger batteries over a certain weight though. Last few have been Yuasa and so far no problems over 3 years. Think their around £60 plus £12 delivery

Not sure but there may be a timer/sensor unit for the glow plugs that it connects to. Had them on a few old diesel vans. Think the one on the 1.9tdi looks like this Its usually in the engine compartment somewhere. I think the MK1 were under dash Alasdair

Dont think there should be any oil on sparkplugs at all. Could be a valve stem seal thats worn or bad piston rings. Try a compression test Alasdair

Check the wiring/connector hasnt been pulled by accident. Had similar problems on a volvo and the wiring had been caught by something under seat from the rear. Alasdair