Alasdair1

Found the link to youtube that shows how to set cables. Its a 5mm not 8mm pin/drill Alasdair

It could the cables that have moved/jumped or hopefully not a gearbox problem. Make sure they are both attached as its not unknown for the plastic ends to break. You should be able to move selector on top of Gbox up/down and left/right without cables attached to check that its not the Box/selector unit thats seized. There are a few tutorials on how to reset cables online. It involves locking selecor on top of Gbox and also gear lever by inserting I think 8mm drill/rod then reattach cables. Alasdair

Could be the plastic linkage on top of gearbox that has seized or the cast weight is loose or worn on its spindle. Have a Seat altea that the plastic link that the cables attach to had seized up and couldn't select 3rd,4th,5th. Looks like this Its unlikely but could also be a seized gear selector cable, If everything is moving freely then might be worth resetting cables.

Was looking to see what an STL format file was and found this https://www.yeggi.com/q/skoda+fabia+mk2/ Not sure if its what your looking for. Alasdair

Just been out to check bulbs/wiring again in case I missed one. Slammed rear tailgate and number plate light went out momentarily so reckon its the culprit. Didn't think the system covered them plus I have to admit never checked them when warning light was on. Will investigate further when weather gets better. Blowing a gale at the moment. Thanks again Alasdair

Cheers Pete will do. It came on just as I came home today after being off into and out of town (10miles plus one stop) and checked every bulb before I switched off car and they all seemed bright and ok. A poor/loose earth would change the resistance so would put warning on. Will check the rear clusters out. Alasdair

Hi there, Octavia 1.6tdi 12 plate estate. Got a weird one. Bulb blown light is on but no bulbs are blown. None seem dim or different. Haven't replaced any recently and its only on sometimes. There all standard halogen bulbs (no LED etc) Its a bit random. Sometimes its on when car is started other times it appears after driving for a few miles and sometimes not on at all. Even remembered to check high level brake light this time including reversing lights. Could it be a failing bulb? Any thoughts welcome. Alasdair

I did the same and ended up removing bearing and drilling it out as I didnt want anything to get into hole. You could see if you could get an easy out or self tapping screw into the bit thats left plus soak overnight in releasol before trying to remove. Alasdair

Good luck with the swap. Auto boxes are pretty reliable but when they go its often catastrophic. Alasdair

As you changed master it may be a small amount of air in ABS unit that's not coming out. The fact that you get 'Status Ready / K1 OK / K2 OK / CAN NOT READY' may be that there is a bad connection at port or perhaps the port isnt getting power. Check that the drivers for VCDS are up to date and I assume its a genuine cable. I assume you tried with ignition on and engine running. Might be worth checking terminals in port and also lead plus fuses related to OBD port. As far as I know a MK2 should have Can-bus. Can you scan car for codes? Alasdair

Glad you found the problem an its sorted. Coolant loss can be a nightmare to find. Alasdair

Have a good check of the tyres. My old Seat altea warning used to come on due to a tyre being slightly out of round. I kept resetting and checking but didnt notice tyre at first an assumed it was a sensor but after a few weeks car developed a wobble you felt through seat and one was slightly deformed. I jacked each wheel up and lowered onto a flat board with tyre just touching then spun wheels and found one was about 1cm out of round with a weird twist in it. Expensive day as the tyre service pointed out the age of tyres and said I needed all four as if one had gone the chances are the others may follow. I trust the tyre place. They are decent and have been using them for at least 40 years. Alasdair

Thats a big bill. The chain and kit is around £250 so I don't see how they want £2000 labour? Unless there are skoda only tools involved I would be going elsewhere. Alasdair

Could be a failing bearing/ABS sensor/ABS ring or wiring. From memory the car uses info from ABS sensor to work out if a tyre is flat. Maybe worth getting it scanned in case a fault code is stored or if faulty which wheel/wheel sensor it is Alasdair

The radio is an OEM one so doubt it will be it. I think that message is normally with older cars without CAN. Not sure why as I think yours does unless its an older version or the VCDS needs updated?. I did read that autodetect may not work and you have to choose chassis/engine number manually. I am just learning VCDS so not much help I am afraid but I am sure someone on here will help. Alasdair

Maybe a dirty poor connection but if the pipe was disconnected it may have affected vacuum operation. Hope its one of those one of faults. Alasdair

Have read that the plastic flaps get worn and the motor moves out with its limits hence the codes or it could be gummed up and needs cleaned. Have also read of a repair kit but not sure if its suitable for your engine. Did find this though Darkside Developments2.0 TDI Common Rail Swirl Flap Repair Kit (P2015) - Alumi...Darkside Developments is a UK based diesel tuning company, specialising in VAG (VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda), BMW, MINI & Porsche Diesel VehiclesAt £26.40 Its worth a go if it fits your engine. Lot cheaper than a new unit Alasdair

As mentioned near start of post do you have an aftermarket radio? Some can interfere with OBD connection. As for ABS sensors the only way is to scan car to find out which one unless you replace all four but it could also be a failed sensor ring in bearing or bearing itself. Check the wiring to each sensor and the condition of the connecting plug plus feel for roughness in bearings. Alasdair

Think they are different The smooth has 41mm piston and ribbed has 38mm plus I think the mounting is different as well. The smooth are for 12mm thick discs and the ribbed are for 10mm thick discs. Alasdair

My sons MK1 top mount includes new bearings so I assume they would be new. As said on my sons mk1 and my octavia mk2 there is an arrow on the original to show direction. On the KYB ones I got there was no arrow but I compared with the old one. I had a look on monroe cat but couldnt find struts for the VRS so maybe they fitted standard ones for a MK2 and monroe dont do VRS? Alasdair

I normally go to lll parts and look up the manufacturers diagrams for oe part numbers then when ordering aftermarket and check any cross ref. From memory the top mounts have a specific direction/fitting position. Wonder if there fitted wrong which may be causing the noise. You could see if the garage can give you the part numbers that they fitted and check on Monroe site if they match Alasdair

Did this happen all of a sudden or after replacing a caliper etc. It may be air in the system due to bad master cylinder or when changing something fluid has dropped too low letting air into ABS. If you havent replaced any brake parts or fluid was low I would suspect bad seals on master. Alasdair

I used Apec blue discs and pads on my octavia mk2 as its a fair age. Been on for about a year and seem very good. The whole lot was just over £100 from parts in motion. They also do Apec Black which are supposedly high performance/luxury car at a bit more and Apec Red which are mid range similar to oem. Being using Apec for a while with no problems. Alasdair

When I did mine on a 1.9tdi BXE engine I had to loosen the three bolts in camshaft wheel to get the alignment tools spot on. Wonder if they have loosened on yours as the adjustment is only about one tooth. Not sure what Firstline are like these days but a few years ago my local garage stopped using them as the failure rate of new parts was very high. I would go with Gates if possible. Used them for years and never had an issue. INA are very good as well as SKF and should be a lot better than firstline. Needs looking at as not sure how many teeth need to jump before disaster. Alasdair

Had same on old volvo 940. One of the rear pistons was sticking at a certain point but not seized. New caliper and discs/pads and back to normal. Volvo had two pistons one each side of disc so when braking only one was working and pulling it out of alignment. Not sure on the superb but if a brake shoe is seized in its carrier it will do the same as well as a seized slider pin/pins. Reckon it needs wheels off and check the pads and slider pins plus check there is no drastic run out on discs Alasdair