bigjohn

Good point - I myself thought I had a fault when I first got my Superb II and asked the dealer - doh! As far as I remember my 2001 Octavia and 2003 Superb didn't have such a message when they were deadlocked.

Deadlocks were introduced in the 90's along with immobilisers to combat rapidly increasing levels of car theft. Generally this was successful - well until KESSY introduced anyway. You get a dash warning on turning off when about to leave the car - it is however usually possible on many VAG cars to lock doors without deadlocks by double pressing the lock button, this usually disables most of the alarm as well.

Few photos - I've slightly pulled cables/trim to reveal wires etc:- :-w

Actually the 4 speed gearbox as fitted to rwd cars back in the day was pretty efficient in 4th gear. In a way you effectively weren't using gears to pass drive as the input shaft was connected to the output shaft directly 1 - 1. With older rwd Fords / Vauxhalls I rebuilt many an engine but never a gearbox. That changed as 5 speed boxes arrived eg Sierra. Saying that though cars back then were screamers at motorway speeds. Back to the original thread has anyone had delivered/ driven the 24 model car yet? I'm looking with interest but am waiting to see how the new evo2 engine performs. Theoretically it should be more economical etc.

I've fitted one to a Superb mkII twin hatch where the rear camera is mounted at the top of the hatch window just below the high level brake light with the wire passing over to the top of the hatch opening / top of rubber seal with just enough wire length to allow the hatch to open ok without disturbing the camera. The wire is then hidden following the top rubber hatch seal , the around the top of a trim panel (drivers side behind rear seat) and then down behind the rubber rear door seal down to the sill trim and onwards to the front drivers door rubber seal eventually finding its way up the drivers side windscreen pillar and behind trim all the way to the windscreen mounted Nextbase dashcam. Pretty straight forward with no brittle clips disturbed. It has worked well for quite a few years now. Hope this helps.

Likewise re 1970 Ford Zodiac 3.0 (also circa 1980) - 19 gallon tank that didn't last long. I don't think it ever managed 20mpg even on a run, around town it wasn't even managing double figures. Fast forward to today with my ageing 1.4tsi Superb which is still a barge of a car Overall of 46 mpg with 50 mpg on a steady run - wow! Currently thinking of downsizing to potentially one car so Fabia/Scala/Kamiq in focus. Octavia ruled out as some basic functions (eg heating) on the touch screen.

Nice engine though

I have some friends with a 1923 Morris Bullnose which was new before leaded petrol was available (was invented in the 20's) - great but you were suppose to re grind the valves every 1000 miles!

Funnily enough I had a Moggy Minor 948cc but that was more economical than 35mpg - more like 40+ but it did a lot of longish runs . Various Fords were awful though MKII Cortina 1300cc(pre crossflow) was mid 20's mpg and with a mkIv 3.0l Zodiac you had to turn it off filling up to stop gaining on them! One surprise was a 76 Datsun 100a which did over 50mpg on a run - it was a great car except for the dreaded rust.

Evo 2 now. Is this the reason?

Could this be an engine/gearbox mount issue rather that DMF? Typically (er not always) DMF failure shows initially at tickover in neutral with clutch pedal released and quietens when clutch pedal depressed and / or revs are raised - unless DMF really really bad. I think the original clutch gubbins fitted to the 2.0 diesel was Sachs - there were many reports back in the day of the Sachs pressure plate failing and machining through the gearbox case - all long gone these days I suspect:-

I've just commented on the Scala forum as I've been considering a Scala or even possibly a Kamiq (boot size might be an issue for me) but looking at recent manuals for Scala and Kamiq I think the new 2024 models do not need Eurolites etc stuck on the headlights:- https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models - Look at "Lighting, windscreen wiper and washers"/ "exterior Lighting" / "settings". So no stickers needed as far as I can see in the 2024 manual. "With adaptive functions engage travel mode feature. Without adaptive functions. The headlights meet the requirements for driving in countries with opposite traffic direction. No headlight adjustment is necessary. " I looked at the 2021 manual there is no mention re non adaptive headlights - so no idea.

Bringing an old thread up to date as I'm re investigating the Scala and I drive into Europe a few times a year:- https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models So no stickers needed as far as I can see in the 2024 manual. "With adaptive functions engage travel mode feature. Without adaptive functions. The headlights meet the requirements for driving in countries with opposite traffic direction. No headlight adjustment is necessary. " I looked at the 2021 manual there is no mention re non adaptive headlights - so no idea.

Not legal in the uk

Reject the car - https://www.theaa.com/car-buying/legal-rights

Trend - Currently SUV attracts buyers like a flame attracts moths. From afar I'm eyeing up the Scala possibly a year old one, problem is my ageing Superb II is still too good to part with. I'm slightly concerned re major infotainment & SOS bugs as reported on this forum though, I might wait until the 2024 model has settled as the SE then has climate control with buttons and I prefer the look of the interior upholstery. The 1.0 will also be available as 116ps.

Why? I think the 1.6 diesel is fitted with an external slave cylinder so not a gearbox off job and cheapish to do - especially if you are doing it at the same time as other clutch hydraulics. The 2.0 diesel has a concentric slave - now that's a big gearbox off job.

Funnily enough I've just had a new clutch as well - I detected a slight slip when dropping into 6th accelerating onto a motorway from a "er slip" road. Probably would have been ok for a while but as I'm planning a long European trip this summer though I better get it sorted. Whilst gearbox was being removed etc I asked for a new external slave, clutch fork and a change of gearbox oil. Flywheel was ok and it's a Single Mass anyway on the 125pc 1.4tsi.

The CD might just be a symptom especially if it is diagnostically voltage sensitive. Any resistance in power leads will potentially cause issues especially after a high current start or under higher load(headlights, electric power steering etc) . Any slight resistance would be amplified by high current load especially after heat is generated. I had a long lasting issue with Mrs BJ's previous Punto years ago that took ages to sort - it kept showing up strange faults such as power steering or subwoofer disabled, After getting frustrated I fitted a second new battery and the fault suddenly revealed itself , the earth lead crimped to a connector bolted to the bodywork pulled apart and when you looked carefully there was evidence of heat. The reason I wonder is you had a voltage reading by the dealer of 11v, was from the cars cpu or if a meter where were the leads attached (earth on body or battery negative). If there is a resistance somewhere don't forget V=IR - the higher the current load the greater the voltage drop. Reading the voltage on the battery alone might not show this up. Try measuring at a 12v socket in the car especially with things turned on.

Old school earth or main live issue? Vibration can disturb the crimps re the thick wires between battery/body/engine/starter.

Check your battery first!

I think - press the keyfob lock button twice to disable motion sensors / deadlocks. Doors will be locked but drivers's door LED will not be flashing,

Wouldn't that be illegal? It would play havoc with the blown bulb detector light.

With just the resistors in place you'll measure 6v between the resistors but introduce a load(battery!) then it all changes. Voltage drop more determined mainly by V=IR over the first resistor where the current drawn will be determined by current through the second resistor and drawn by the battery. Something like this will do the job... https://www.amazon.co.uk/EBILUN-Converter-Voltage-Changer-Regulator/dp/B07HCC8C6Z

Most recentish Skoda/VAG cars can be locked with no interior protection or deadlocking by pressing the lock button twice. The car will be locked but no flashing red light. It's what I do when I drive onto a ferry!