rum4mo

I had that on a completely different VW Group car, a VW Passat 4Motion 2000, which like the earlier MK1 Superb were just some old Audi bits as far as the drive train was concerned, so being a pessimist, I thought "gearbox/diff" so handed it in after swopping wheels around, with a very heavy heart, the noise that car made, and started making quite quickly from being very quiet, was more of a wah wah like older army trucks with off road (mainly) tyres, luckily it was only a front wheel bearing so I got both sides replaced, noises gone, I never ever tried driving through that noise, I just used it as little as possible until I could get it "seen to", mileage at that time was probably near 75K miles/9years old. My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, started making "bearing noises" when it was only over 6 years old and 30/35K miles, as I initially hoped it was uneven tyre wear, but when it came time to change from directional winter tyres to summer tyres the noise unfortunately did not go away! I did keep running it and yes, I could easily drive through that noisy band of road speed, it was just a hum that could easily be "got rid of" by turning the radio on and up a bit, I replaced both front bearing assembles and that sorted that out. Edit:- that can be the reality of running a 4WD car, always start with the worst possible source of the noise, I've only ever had, as my car, a 4WD car for the past 30 years and never yet had any "4WD" related issues.

Unfortunately, having a "fully overtightened" battery clamp, can also mean that the local dealership has in the past removed that lead!

Out of interest, what are the black wire from the battery -VE and the red wire showing, being used for?

I replaced the original Panasonic batteries in both keys for my wife's August 2015 VW Polo at the maybe 6 year mark, with new Panasonics - just to avoid any issues, purely PM.

My big tin of Copaslip - for use on furnace bolts - it says on the tin, has been with me since the late 1970's, not much use for it nowadays as I've moved across to Ceramic brake grease. One thing that I noticed when replacing the engine oil in my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, was that the sump plug was "gripping slightly" when screwed back in, every time I've changed the oil I have used a torque wrench set to the correct torque level, so I can't easily explain why that was started happening, I checked another sump plug and it felt the same no obvious thread damage on either of these sump plugs, if I had realised that the wheel bolts use the same thread size, I could have run a tap that size down that sump plug hole, something I will remember to do next year at oil change time!

If it is the EVAP ribbed hose issue, it will only make that noise when the engine has warmed up and either at small throttle demands/ low engine revs and low engine loading or on the over run. Just look for the EVAP hose, it appears at the right-hand side (looking forward from the driver's seat), coming up from below on a metal pipe and connecting to a plastic pipe before coming forward to the right-hand side of the engine to connect to the EVAP solenoid. At this age many cars had a hard plastic ribbed pipe and some were lucky enough to have a preformed rubber smooth bore pipe - if this is your problem it is a just a change to the later pipe that is required. I had to really push for this to be replaced/upgraded on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI under warranty, as VW claimed that it was not a recognised problem, eventually they sourced what they called a kit from VW Germany - kit = pipe and spring clips, they fitted these spring clips at both ends of the new pipe, but there was not enough room for the clip at the EVAP solenoid end, so it was just put there for cosmetic reasons, so I removed it.

So yes, cylinder 1 is the one nearest the right-hand side of the car - from sitting in the driver's seat looking forwards!

Maybe I was being a bit cheeky or naive a few years ago, but anyway I emailed Fuchs's UK sales department concerning a certain version of their engine oil that was suitable for my VW Group cars, and another brand that I was lead to believe on motoring forums, was just "same as" that Fuchs version of oil! I was put right immediately by being advised that the "treatment package" in engine and other oils is what contributes to the bulk of the price differences, Fuchs add to their branded oils what they considered correct, what they added to "other" brands they supplied was really up to how much or what point in the market these other brands were aiming at - take from that what you want. Sounds to me a lot like the baked beans situation. I moved to Mobil One so no longer a Fuchs user, each to their own really, Edit:- there was really a bit more to that email than just asking about what exactly is the difference between Fuch in Fuchs tins and their supplied oils in another brands tins, I also wanted to know where I could source their oils locally, and that turned out to be a waste of time as the small motor factors only held a very limited range of Fuchs engine oils - and really did not want to buy in of what I was looking for at the time, so back to online buying, so much for helping the local economy!

I think that I and others have said this before, if you go by the official recommendations given out by at least VW to service/repair agents via the official workshop manuals, it clearly points out that on these models, the cambelt is not a service type item, it should get inspected every so many miles/years after the initial so many miles/years when the car is being serviced, and a judgment made at that time as to wither it needs replacing or not. My wife's VW Polo was first reg'd in mid August 2015, has run just over 40K miles, and I'll probably get its cambelt etc replaced next year - for peace of mind. On all earlier 1,4 16V petrol engined small VW Group cars, I have always gone with the 4 year change period for earlier car and the 5 year change for later similar engiined cars.

That would be an extremely good or challenging test for that stuff!

My wife's previous car, a 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V 75PS, ie BBY engine with manual trans, started "using" engine oil from maybe quite an early age from new, maybe 5 years 40K miles, I tolerated that, but when it was roughly 10 years old, 80K miles, it started pinking even at low temperatures, when the engine load was high at lower revs, I initially treated it to UL+ fuel and that kept the pinking away, but eventually I replaced the oil/air separator and that reduced the oil use and probably got rid of the pinking - but I never ever found out as my wife preferred its improved drivability while using UL+! I remember checking/adjusting the tappets on my 1972 Ford Escort MK1 1300 in 1977, shock horror, I found a hard bit of stuff in the rocker area, so did a de-coke - it was "only" a broken off bit of a valve stem seal, still that engine did get a de-coke and so a new set of valve stem seals, as said, valve stem seals do have a limited useful life. Edit:- Lambda sensors do not live effectively for ever, so maybe the one that has reported that issue needs replacing, I'm not sure how effective cleaning it will be.

Thanks for that, when I eventually get round to checking and replacing the bolts on my wife's Polo I'll bear that in mind, it was the answer that I expected, and I plan to replace the G13 coolant with G12evo while doing that job, I think that my wife's Polo engine was built before this started to be an issue, but I'd rather check these bolts to make sure.

Did you need to remove the coolant and its pipes and remove the inlet manifold from the car completely or did you manage to leave the coolant pipes connected to the inlet manifold and work by moving it about a bit?

Once, I checked to see what the spec was for the VW Group branded DOT4 brake fluid, and found that it is effectively DOT4+ or called DOT4 ESP or DOT4 Pro by some other providers, so I've always only ever bought brake fluid to that spec, yes when compared with basic DOT4 it is more expensive, but in application tables/listings, most modern cars get listed against the DOT4+/DOT4 ESP/DOT4 Pro. You asked the question, so I've just given you my answer, some others justify just using the cheapest available. Edit:- it seems a bit strange that Brembo include "lower viscosity" as a feature of its basic DOT4 when they also offer one listed as a DOT4 LV and lists it as "very low viscosity".

That sounds slightly weird, from memory, and I could be wrong, with a split rear seat 2002 9N Polo, the seat base just flipped forward, same on the 2015 VW Polo, if anything I would have expected the Fabia to always be more versatile/usable in that respect than the equivalent Polo.

Sorry to hear about this! Hopefully you going to give us a rough/quick round up on how this repair went once you have got all the parts and fitted them, good luck! Edit:- out of interest, did you find any or all the other rail fixing bolts loose or not very tight when you went to remove them?

Have you tried trimming down the address to www.hardrace-europe.com and searching for these bits, worked for me? Edit:- or is it just an under car view you want?

Exactly, grab the front of the seat base at the front and lift it up a bit, it will sort of move forward, then grab the rear of the seat base and pivot it forwards through 90 degrees. Then drop the seat back(s) down.

If the linkage has come off at the ball pivot point, for a quick work around, Halfords and others sell a repair click - Halfords Windscreen Wiper Repair Clip | Halfords UK I've never needed to use one, maybe others can comment on that to keep you moving until you buy a new linkage or just trust the repair clip.

Yes, the same as in my wife's 2015 VW Polo the seat base tips forward to let the seat back fold down, also, the seat base can be removed quite easily if you want/need more space, that is not mentioned in the handbook though if I remember correctly. I tend to forget about the clips in the side panel for storing the outer seat belts out of the way though, and just get annoyed with the belts - for some reason. Edit:- I'd think that if the rear seat base removal is detailed in the Fabia handbook then it will probably also be detailed in that Polo one - just shows that most people might read the handbook but not all of it is retained, especially in older brains!

So the hopefully split seat bases do not tip forward through 90 degrees first and then the seat back folds down near enough flat? That sounds a bit silly and a space waster. I'm only going by how things work out on my wife's 2015 VW Polo

Just one thing to remember if you have not taken it into consideration yet, when you are connecting/disconnecting main cables, you will probably be wakening up ALL that car's controllers, so for a shortish period after making a change, the drain current will be higher - and then drop off as controllers are put to sleep. That means, when checking things over a short period of time, you might not actually be seeing any change or at least the changes that you are hoping to see.

I'd think that your only source for a new high level light will be Skoda. I'd also think that if you managed to work out how to remove that assembly, you could cut it open and repair it and then bond it back together again before refitting it - but that would depend on your technical abilities. I had a rear high level light assembly fail on my wife's previous car which was a 2002 VW Polo - and what surprised me was that that car's high level brake light had a row of filament bulbs and not LEDs! Anyway, if I had had more time and that car was not being used daily, I would have looked into that assembly before buying a new one - as as soon as I removed the old one I could see where/what the failure was - one of the power connections had rusted due to water getting in! If I had seen that, I could have sorted that original light out by splicing in a new and longer length of wire and soldered it to the bus bar, which was what I needed to do after fitting the new light assembly!

It is a pity that you cannot recharge that battery and then test it, really to try to work out if that battery has indeed run out of useful life - or the battery monitor built into the -VE lead has become faulty and has led to that battery being under charged. My wife has an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT, and maybe 10 months ago it did change its charging characteristics enough to get me worried, but after changing the battery serial number, things have improved, though I'd doubt if that battery will remain useful for another 2 years, but I'm sticking with it while keeping an eye on its "habits" via a cheap Chinese made plug in DVM, new AGM battery ready for action for when the time comes. Remember that your car will need an EFB or AGM battery and it should be coded to the car. I'd doubt if the seat belt warning defect will be the root cause of this issue. Edit:- don't get me wrong, it could well be that that battery has indeed reached the end of its life,I am just trying to cover all bases just in case there is another reason other than that battery.

Ah, so you have just replaced the nozzle at the end of the rear washer system, if I was correct, the part that I referred to further back up this thread is more likely to be the root cause of this problem - but if you or anyone else on this forum cannot point to where this part is in the car, then that is a problem. Replacing the pump, might solve your problem - but it might not. Good luck!