rum4mo

1) is the intake charged air sensor 2) is the brake vacuum sensor

I've read on these forums that you can't even give these ABS magnetic rings a sideways glance without causing them damage - but now that you have been able to actually see a bearing with hopefully a magnetic ring on its inner face - you've probably worked out that usually they are able to look after themselves okay. If you feel the need to clean these wheel sensor bores up a bit better, what I'd do - and I did when working on both my wife's Polo and my S4, was to record the depth that should be safe for you to run a 10mm drill down - remember that these sensors are only "full size" for part of their length, follow any reaming with the drill bit with maybe brake cleaner to wash the crap out and away while rotating the hub. Just hopefully a worthless question - did you make sure that both hub-bearing assemblies had ABS sensor magnetic rings on the inner face of these bearings - maybe not too easy to spot? Maybe even confirm this by checking the actual part numbers from their packaging. Now if you had access to a "good" VAG compliant scan tool, you could "watch" each wheel's road speed - to see if it was correct and consistent. Edit:- actually seeing as you know it is the front right hand side ABS sensor, you must have a scan tool, sorry for making that error.

One thing to bear in mind when quoting the use of WD40, many years ago, WD40 was only ever sold as their "water dispersant" and general lubricant offering, nowadays, WD40 and plenty other "old names/brands" do send to market many other service fluids which are individually intended for use in specific areas of a car etc.

ABS wheel speed sensor getting damaged - not unexpected when replacing the wheel hub/bearing assembly. Slightly curious to me, that it was the RHS one as that was the one that I trashed when replacing both hub/bearings - but I had already spotted that the "finger" of that ABS wheel sensor was canted over after I had got that bearing out. So, now you "just" unplug and unbolt that wheel sensor - and then probably fail to to be able to pull it out - then end up snapping it off! Not a problem, just drill down into the remains and take a "red hot" MDF type screw (ie a screw with big grippy threads" - and push that down into the hole that you drilled, then give that screw a full 1 > 2 complete turns, then cool that area down so that the plastic hardens back up, then yank that screw+sensor up and out of that hole in the knuckle. You should be luckier than I was with my 2011 Audi S4 as it has aluminium uprights/knuckles and your car has iron knuckles so the crap that is locking that sensor in its location is a lot less nasty than the really crap crap that is aluminium salts! Clean the sensor hole out with a 10mm drill bit - that should give you enough room to push the new sensor down into its location, maybe apply some high temperature wheel bearing grease to the "upper" end of the new sensor to make life easier for the next time/person!

Yes, brake fluid should get done, the AC could wait until it lets you know by starting to underperform and/or makes hissing noises when being used. I'm sure that someone out there will have fuel use figures that can show that slightly under gas'd AC will use slightly more fuel, when used, to achieve your desired temperature - but how many miles you would need to travel to use the slightly increased fuel before that meets or exceeds the cost of a "AC regas" I would not even try to guess! So, if I were you, I'd stick with "is it good enough right now?" if the answer is yes, then give it another year before asking yourself the same question. Edit:- by the way, all car HVAC systems do leak slightly over time down to the different parts being connected using "rubber" piping which, to all these AC gases, are porous to a certain extent - not much can be done to stop that until more suitable piping or AC gas is used.

Last week, while using my wife’s 2015 VW Polo and having American relatives in the back seat, my cousin’s husband had opened the RHS rear window (hot day, car’s AC has lost its gas), then started muttering about his window doing this! Me fearing the worst, thought “great we’ll need to use my car when going out tomorrow”! Anyway after the doom and glow faded away, I used the switch on my (driver’s) door and held the window switch up for a while - success! That guy was not wanting to open that window again but next time it was okay, but failed the following time. I hadn’t thought about stiffness through lack of use, I’ll try using some nylon etc lub!

Ideally you'd want these track rod ends back bolted up to the hub knuckle s doing that helps stabilise this while you fight with the locking nut - but I think that you have said that you have damaged the thread on the TRE taper/post - is there not enough useable thread there to relocate it even using washers as packing so that you can get it nipped up? Maybe this is where these "bovine" spanner extenders come into play, I gambled on buy a single one to see if they work okay, all my spanners are what you could call "good quality" so no danger of something nasty happening if I snap one using this "bovine" addition to my tool kit. I was pleasantly surprised to find that they can be very useful especially when needing to deal with bigger "torque to yield" fixings that you can only access with a hex ring spanner!

Good stuff, in my early days with VW Group cars I did buy genuine VW Group "star" retainer clips - but not now, anything else cheaper gets used, I seem to saving the last of the genuine ones for - I've also started buying in "repair patches" for when the aluminium heat shields "dissolve" locally - but that should take maybe 8 or 10 years for them to reach that point. It could be that Skoda has not moved onto using the plastic flange nuts - yet. I've checked the VW section of the parts listing and WHT 000 173 is the plastic flanged nut that fixes these plastic under covers AND - probably only for initial assembly, gets retained in place in the cover by the 2 "lips".

Always anti or counter clockwise to slacken things - except for when your dealing with left handed threads - which you are not here.

These "star" fixings are a pain in the bottom! VW used to use them on all the undercovers on the 9N Polo for instance, I always used to keep a few spares for when checking them at service time, later VW Polo 6C uses plastic nuts that have a flange that locates into the "retainers/clips" on that undercover recess, well they do that for where there is not a heat source nearby - where there is heat they use the "star" fixings, and the "brilliant" thing is, the heat shields have aluminium in them - so right away there tends to be a "squabble" between the steel of these clips and the aluminium in the heat shields and both lose out - the aluminium heat shield "dissolves" locally and the "star" fixings does what they do best which is to rust away to nothing!

Yes there is, Sealey for one provide one, and there will be offers I'd reckon. Edit:- using "spark plug lead removal tool" as a search term in eBay and other places should reveal all.

It will not be a "wingnut" that you need just a plastic nut that has a built in "washer" shape to retain in the clips moulded into the covers - I'd think. Edit:- if it is just a plastic nut that is missing, p/n WHT 000 713 Hexagonal Collar Nut Plastic should be what you need. Another Edit:- or in that position it will be a clamping washer WHT 003 386 and, it seems a clamping washer N 903 350 04. - Scrub these last 2 numbers as they are for the exhaust heat shield, I can't see any "fittings" associated with that rear undercover, maybe check to see that a bit has not broken off before trying to order any fixings.

Going to a Skoda dealership's workshop to sort this out is the only way that you might get any help money wise from Skoda. So really the choice is yours to make, try to get it sorted out FOC via warranty at a Skoda workshop and hope not get hit with lots of "out of scope" extra costs, or take it to a proper car HVAC specialist and get it sorted and maybe maybe end up paying less. Life can be a bit of a gamble at times.

I’ve always aimed to replace fey fob batteries before they slip below 3.0V .

There can be many reasons why a car AC system has lost its fridge gas, from stone strike to the exposed front condenser to poor build quality of the evaporator which is inside the dashboard are - or even failure of the system pressure sensor - VW Group have a long history of revising this part to improve it, though I'd think that pressure sensor failure/leaking is more of an industry wide issue than just VW Group. Guessing is really not the way forward, your car's AC system needs to get checked over by a proper car HVAC operator - then repaired as necessary. Getting your local Skoda workshop to do this is one way to maybe benefit from your warranty covering the costs - but maybe not the best plan for a quick and proper fix.

You should get back in contact with your seller in China, then https://www.ross-tech.com/ - to complain.🙂

I think that a proper AC or just "fridge" workshop should be able to sniff the air coming out of the vents and confirm if there is any of that car's fridge gas in the air, and so condemn the evaporator - but I'd think that to be 90>100% sure about that, they would need to use a tuneable sniffer like a mass spectrometer, they do exist for this type of use, but I'd think 9 times out of 10 it will be up to the proper fridge workshop checking the accessible areas of the system first using a dye nitrogen, or even that with a small quantity of the actual fridge gas used in that system so that they could include their normal pumped sniffer and looking for the dye - ie belt and braces. I've been thinking about digging deeper into fixing my wife's Polo's AC for years, I really have carried out what I'd hope is extensive sniffing with a pumped sniffer and looking for localised damp areas where system oil has been escaping - doing this days after getting the system recharged - and failed to find any leak sites. So, I am currently dragging my heels over asking a local AC place to locate the leak for me - then I'll tackle fixing it before handing it back to them for vac'ng out etc and back filling with fridge gas.

Just to make it clear, when these systems are not running, the system pressure will equalise round the system, there is no "Hi side" and "Lo side" when the system is not running - when running, the Hi side is the compressor output side and the Lo side the compressor suction side, so when empty or after being emptied/recovered, a vacuum is applied to both sides maybe even, if configured that way, to both sides at the same time to speed up pulling a vacuum - ie connecting both ports to a vacuum pump via the recovery/filling machine.

When I started to write that previous reply, I had written "typically" silver for removal and black for fitting, but then dumped that and just copied what I already recorded when I used my kit. Have a look at both versions to see which one is the bigger inner diameter and which is the smaller - I'd think that that detail will be correct and the colours might have been swopped. The only issue that I have is, I'd reckon a big factory in China made all of these cheap kits and I can't see them swopping the colour/finish, though maybe I'm wrong there. From the way that I wrote the "how to use this kit" back when I had used it, it looks a lot like both the "back blocks" were finished in black - whereas your kit, hopefully sensibly has a black one and a silver one. For interest and to tie that down, I'll try to remember to check if the 2 back blocks are or are not the same colour tomorrow as that kit is out of reach right now while both cars are in the garage - and update this reply. Edit:- for me, having used one of these kits, I'm a bit concerned that you found that the split clamp part ended up wedged in between the hub flange and the hub carrier body - that just should not have been possible if the correct parts were used for fitting the new hub/bearing into the hub carrier/knuckle. Edit:- having checked your picture of a typical Gen 2 bearing kit in your other thread on this task, I see that in that kit, both back blocks are black, so no point in me checking mine now, so I as said, I'd think that it is back to what I copied into the previous reply - ie the split front blocks with the larger inner diameter for removing and the split front block with the smaller inner diameter for fitting the bearing assembly - regardless of colour/finish.

Which parts of your kit did you use to get the first new bearing assembly fitted?

Does this clarify anything:- "There are 2 small one piece rear blocks, one smaller than the other, the smaller one with the section machined off to avoid contacting the ABS wheel speed sensor is only to be used when pulling the old bearing out front the front and the bigger diameter rear block is for pulling the new bearing in as it fits against rear face of the hub carrier, ie is bigger than the hole that the hub bearing passes through. There are 2 split blocks, a larger inner diameter (SILVER) one – which is used for removal as it clears the diameter of the main bearing bore and the snap ring, though if that breaks up on removal it is not an issue – during removal, this split block is fitted behind the hub with the recessed area facing the hub carrier and is forced back against the hub carrier body and the bearing is forced out through it as the rear smaller small block passes through the hole in the hub carrier – and a smaller inner diameter (BLACK) one – which is used to fit new bearing as it fits behind the undercut just behind the flange of the hub with its recess facing the bearing, so that forces the bearing in from that point/area as that smaller split block is pulled in until it almost touched the hub carrier as the bearing gets pulled home due to the rear bigger small block being a bigger diameter than the rear of the hole in the hub carrier." That was taken from comments that I made while using one of these kits.

I'd think that the re-gas that you got would have done the minimum by law to check for leaks, and just regassed it - but there is a small leak and you now using that AC system in this current heat wave is lifting the fridge gas pressure up enough to force it out of that small leak where ever it is, though I hate to say this, if you are getting a "different" smell inside the car, it might just have an evaporator leak - that part is inside the passenger cabin and is quite expensive for ant repair place to get access to! My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, does have a leak in its AC system, I've paid to have it recharged maybe 4 years in a row - hot weather only exists up here in Scotland for a few weeks a year, so getting it recharged at the start of the hot period typically had it staying working for 3 months! For the past maybe 3 years I've not done that as and the pessimist in me "says it is a leak in the evaporator" - I've bought the evaporator and new O-ring seals, but not got round to that job yet. Cooler weather tomorrow hopefully up here in Scotland - or using it tomorrow in rush hour traffic will be - challenging!! Edit:- if you have a fully VAG compliant scan tool, then you can find the AC stored fault code which should be "low pressure" - or any other AC fault codes that might assist you or a fixer to sort this out - but I'd reckon that it will have lost its fridge gas charge, or at least enough of it - through a system leak.

In general, at least my experience of dealing with VW Group parts departments, they will not accept your request to order in something that was not fitted originally to your car - probably to protect themselves and the brand from any issues that might arise. So, to avoid getting into that situation, I've always done my own "due diligence" and just asked them to order in from the part number that I've supplied without handing over any vehicle info, I've always known that if the part that I've got them to order in was not suitable then it was my fault and so I'd not be able to return it for some refund. Once I ordered in a pair of new TREs for my wife's 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V part numbers sourced from a knock off copy of EKTA found on ebay - just a pity I didn't check the suitability of the parts selected - they were for a non-Powered Steering model, I did get a small amount of money back after handling charges, I only made that mistake once!

From memory I didn’t hear any “click - that is it”. Maybe get some confidence from how the calliper looks relative to the disc on re-assembly.

The 2 hammer method should be safe to use and shock that taper free, failing that refit the nut upside down and use a ball joint separator - the scissors type and not the “pickle fork” if you want to reuse the TRE.