rum4mo

The AC compressor is driven at all times, but when not required or in your case when its chilling requests have been disabled, the compressor is still feed through a very low volume of compressed fridge gas through the system which always includes the evaporator coil in the cabin heater assembly, so if too much fridge gas was being sent through that coil, you could feel its effect via the cabin fan being run. Can the demand for some more heat not counter this effect, I think that a few people in the past have commented on this issue but I can't remember if anyone ever got it resolved or even accepted as being a problem. Edit:- to let you understand this a bit better, these AC compressors are variable displacement types, so the chilling demand is increased by increasing the effective pumping volume of the compressor, this improves efficiency while the low level/volume of gas being circulated stops any of the system's plastic surfaces drying out and increase gas leaks if not in use much. All previous versions of Fabia will also have had a variable displacement AC compressor, so no change there wrt your previous Fabias.

I fitted a rear hatch pull down handle to my wife's 2015 Polo, as she is only 5 foot tale, I bought the Skoda handle, fixing screw and nutsert, as the screw is maybe M6 or M5 and the nutsert is steel, I failed to set the nutsert in the hole I drilled - I would have been using a hi strength screw to set it but failed miserably, so used another method to provide that handle fixing screw with a "nut" - that bit not relevant here, but the effort needed to set these steel nutserts is very high which is not surprising. Years ago I fell into a similar when refitting the spare wheel captive nut plate to a 1991 Fiesta, instead of buying in the genuine Ford part which would have been a plastic sleeved/sealed alloy large pop rivet, I grabbed one from work, unfortunately it made of stronger material and that trashed my Halfords pop rivet tool, I solved that by buying a heavy duty Stanley branded tool - it took some serious effort to set that pop rivet, I've never used any "acquired" green coated serious pop rivets again!

@nta16, yes that was one of the suggestions that I passed on along with sending SEAT UK a tracked letter with a title like "Letter before action", without claiming any ownership of either suggestions.

Depends on the engine series, the 1.2TSI 16V both have a folded steel crush washer seal on the sump plug, I tend to buy them in in "4" 2 year's worth for my 2011 S4 and wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI - I've only ever bought from VW Group sources. Edit:- Washer N 0138157 (14 X 20) Torque 30Nm

And yet another, this time a 2016 SEAT Ibiza 1.2TSI - same problem, ie fuel rail securing screw snapped off. Owner considering or asking what his options are for redress/escalating this know fault that still has not prompted any recall activity in UK.

The AC condensate drain is located on the engine side of the bulkhead "well down towards the centre from the LHS" but it is covered by the sound proofing which makes things a bit tricky to uncover/reveal. Normal when it chokes the water drain to the inside of the car but probably not via the pollen filter. I'm sure that I've looked at this on a same age Polo, and the rearmost edge of the water deflector slides into and grips under the windscreen area, one way to remove that side is to use a loop made of a cable tie and loop it over one end/side and pull from same the RHS to the centre and repeat that form the LHS - I've not bother to put that to the test, if the Fabia is the same as the Polo I don't know but I'd image it would be, so I've just forced a hand and arm under that cover if and when I've had to. We garage our cars so not much ends up down there, but anyone that parks their car outside and near trees hedges etc should check that area once a year and cleared of any nasty stuff.

For the record it was clinch nuts that I thought was being suggested as they have a bigger surface area that this job probably requires - and they can only be fitted from the other side of the sheet of steel.

The trouble, the way I see it from any rivnuts I've seen, is how to "set" it in place in a blind hole, typically the rivnut would get inserted from the rear of that skin and get clinched to it. Have you exhausted all/any way of fishing down that void with a bit of hooked stiff wire, to see if you can bring it back up and then try super glueing it in place until you can screw that fixing back into it. The trouble might be that there has been serious thread damage, what does the thread on that stud look like, ie like new so serviceable, or has it lost some depth from the threads, unfortunately the same will apply to the vanished original welded nut.

Here is a thread from maybe the same age of engine, it shows pictures of original and the version of parts this guy used to sort things out, maybe give you some extra info on this repair/upgrade. 1.2TSI timing chain change on the driveway.. | SEATCUPRA.NET There was also, I seem to remember someone from Italy that did an upgrade to the later/final "set of chain drive bits" on the same age engine in a Polo, rather than just using what VW Group chose to provide for a "refresh".

@mikear82, sorry I seemed to have missed your comment about Skoda having pulled out of Inverness, time Skoda UK or that dealership tidied up their online details! Car sorted out now? Uncle Arnie's car emporiums can be a bit annoying to deal with, I think it helps if you are a young female though, my order daughter never seems to have any issues with their SEAT site in Edinburgh - yet, other than a complete mess up when her Leon Cupra was booked in online for its year 2 service - their website suggested that it would be more convenient for her to drop it off at their "not SEAT" site near her, result being it got none of the usual S/W checks or even the additional work added into the early stages of the online booking system - reasons being when quizzed about this "we are not a SEAT dealership" - not very handy to find that out after the prepaid service work was completed, ie only a quick oil change I'd expect!

Quote "Manufacturer specific code." that usually means that Carista have not (yet) included that code in their app, if you contact them via email or FB they usually put in a bit more effort and come up with the correct meaning. Some cheaper diagnostic tools just add in a bit of spice to your fault tracing/finding, which is not what you expect.

Lots, or many, or some, low level priority faults, nowadays do get removed from the relevant controller's memory, so as said they do disappear. A couple that I used to see logged then without clearing them notice that they had "gone" a month later were "infotainment switch error" and "something concerning the mechanical side of the AC compressor" - the infotainment switch issue was not something that I had ever been aware of so ignored getting that looked into and I've only ever noticed it returning and remaining long enough to get spotted once or twice. The AC compressor mechanical issue, again I was never aware of any limitation of the availability of the AC though we don't need to use it for chilling the air much up North, that one, I think that I read, was addressed by VW Group and resolved by a S/W update, though I'd doubt if that car ever got the update as they are usually only bothered with on demand by the customer. My old 1991 VX Cav GSI 2000 16V 4X4, used to do what was called "esponging" of all "now not present" logged faults - probably the wrong spelling but a word that sounds like the correct term - so nothing new there! VW Group, on cars which had a fault logged but that fault was now not present, used to clear them from bringing on the dashboard warning light - if they were a high priority fault that warranted that, after so many engine starts, but still leave them in the relevant controller's memory which seemed like a good plan

Having trouble removing these bolt caps is another indicator to point to the fact that that car has not had its wheels off for a very long time, it is a good plan to service the brakes once every year or every other year, plus if the wheels have not been off for quite a long time, unless you live in an area where NO road salt/grit is used in winter, or are not near the seaside, then getting these wheels off in the event of a puncture, might prove to be a lot harder than expected. I think with my own car bought at just under 2.5 years old, getting the bolt covers off was a bit tricky, so I cleaned off any accumulated salt or corrosion, then applied a "touch" of silicon grease - though now due to me removing the wheels twice a year to change to summer/winter wheels/tyres, these bolt covers come off quite easily, and so far I've never ever lost any from either car.

8D0 012 244A will get you a suitable one, there might now be more than one part number, that part number is an old Audi one and maybe still the only one for this tool. Edit:- yup, still works £2.19 upwards delivered, or even under £4 if you buy 2 at a time I see! VW do fit bolt caps that have a "Torx" type hole in the centre - that wire springy tool works only for them - and obviously other things.

My wife has a 2015 VW Polo, but so far it has not suffered this typical failure, it is only too easy to roll out the usual "a known issue with many VW/SEAT/Skoda and maybe Audi" models of this size of car, but the switches/controls assembly is usually the root cause. There is an easy way to work out if this is probably the problem, but that requires you to have or get the use of VCDS or similar to carry out a demanded function and see what the controller's response is - getting a main dealer to do that would probably cost as much as the switch assembly though. The fact that the rear wiper works, or sweeps once when the car is in reverse just proves that the controller has "seen" that the front wipers have been switched on at the time, though in your case not a deliberate action by you!

Check this thread for location etc, there might be others/better ones though:-

It is a high probability that it is a broken PCV valve, maybe search using that term - even on Google, including VW 1.2TSI 8V.

@SpotnikHTP04, one bit of advice for the future, from me is, never ever just replace a front spring and top mounting, there is a bearing up there as well - and you don't want to need to pay someone to take things apart in a few months times just because that bearing now needs replacing. Though when a front spring breaks near/at the top end, the bearing usually falls apart so the decision gets made for you.

Why don't you just phone the Skoda dealer in Inverness and if not in stock they will order you one in if you pay by CC, then it is just a short hop across there to collect it. 15 or so miles is nothing, I live just outside Edinburgh and I need to travel that far if I want any VW Group parts normally - easy.

I've just checked the VW, SEAT and Audi part numbers, but they all have their own part numbers so these struts are not common across these "same" and same age VW Group models! I was just trying to make your life a bit easier in case you could have got one from the local VW dealership - and failed! From memory, the retaining clips or at least the strut, has a "helper" recess where you slip a flat bladed screwdriver into(shown on the side facing you), maybe you should just remove that U/S and so leaking oil strut to stop the oil running out and getting onto "stuff" including clothes.

If you have GSF or ECP within your intended travel area, then at least ECP sell Pagid or maybe even Textar pads and discs, I've always found Pagid to be okay despite how, it has been said, ECP manipulate that brand's offerings by selling only a "shortened" range. I'd always aim to check the Pagid/Textar official website for their kit references and make sure that ECP is handing over their(Pagid/Txtar) listed kits for your car - otherwise aim to get another brand you recognise, sometimes it is very easy to get the exact correct parts aftermarket, sometimes it can be slightly trickier. CCP otherwise known as Coverdale Car Parts, are worth contacting for genuine VW Group parts, I've used them many times, but always make sure that you know what your local VW Group dealership is asking for service parts - just in case you end up paying more from shopping elsewhere.

Are you sure that that NGK stock number is correct, I used to fit 5960 and the NGK UK partsfinder online, still lists that for all VW Group 1.4 BXW, although all my others cars have had a "5 figure" stock number starting with 9????, so maybe the real world NGK stock numbers are more correct than their UK partsfinder online! Edit:- it does seem to be a "V line" version equivalent to 5960 I've discovered so should be okay.

I see that I used to use 25NM on the same engine in a late 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4, though I'm not sure where I got that value from, maybe from Haynes for a 2002 BBY 1.4, or maybe the NGK website. My wife's 2015 1.2TSI is 22NM - okay a different engine and plug but maybe the same thread size, I've forgotten. Some places where you find that figure give 2 figures for plugs that have crushable sealing washers, a low figure for first fit, a higher figure for refitting with a now crushed sealing washer. Ignore my comment for the 1.2TSI engine as its plugs have thick "solid" sealing washers!

I think that if it was a fault/failure with the BMS or its dongle, a scan using a VW Group compliant scan tool would confirm or rule that out, some people have had these dongles replaced under warranty it seems. Needing recoding after a battery change even if the exact identical new battery is fitted, I agree in principle about doing that and would always recode any new battery I fitted to my cars, but has anyone bothered to check how much not doing that influences the usefulness or life of a new battery - I thought that the new battery would not be charged immediately as intended but over time the BMS would adapt to optimise that new battery or at least correctly charge it. I'm just putting that out in a bid to stop the OP now "knowing" that as his car has not been recoded to this new battery, then that MUST be the only reason why he is having a problem.

I've never tried to remove bits from their socket mounting, I'd think that they are in there for good! My US Pro 1/4 or 3/8 set are "one piece" - I mean not "two part" like the ones you bought so really not handy at all, and probably security ones, just bought because -------. I've only started buying quality like Wera 1/4" hex bits to replace damaged poorer/unknown quality ones as and when they end up in a bad state, I don't like ball ended hex/torx tools as normally they are intended to be used to remove lightly torqued and clean fixings ending up finding that you need to use them near or way beyond their useful limits just ends up with the fixings head damaged. Though ball ended is handy for the initial screwing in and the later unscrewing of clean fixings.