rum4mo

Buying Mann filters cheaply just means buying what VW Group fitted at factory, but now being bought without any VW Group identity on it, same for cabin filter, I've been buying Mann Frecious cabin filters for a few years now.

@nta16, re getting things wrong, I got it into my head that my car, a 2011 S4, used T27, so, after doing a dummy run in what is needed to replace absolutely every filament light bulb, I bought a compact bit+socket set, a very long 1/4" hex drive extension and a T27 bit as that was missing from the Bacho set I bought - but so far I've never discovered any fixings that used the T27 size, so I reckon that I was wrong there! Five spline fixings, most car makers reserve them for bit the normal motorist should never have to remove - just to avoid someone messing things up. I totally agree with only buying good quality bits, while I was getting access to every filament light bulb on my car and my wife's 2015 Polo, I became aware that the T20 was now worn and the T27 had been partially twisted - so its spines were longer straight, so I replaced them with Wera ones, and bought an extra T27 for my kit in my car. My car came with that screwdriver with the built in wheel bolt spinner in the head and with both Torx and Flat double ended bits, my wife's Polo came with the same screwdriver with the double ended Torx bit, so I bought one with the Flat/Straight double ended bit from ebay, added the Flat/Straight double ended bit to her kit and kept the handle too grab and spin wheel bolts when changing wheels in the garage. My daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra, I seem to remember did not come with any screwdriver at all, so I bought one for her again from ebay - but as usual, it can be tricky to find one at a sensible price, I'd advise anyone thinking of buying that sort of original tool, to check the price from any local VW Group dealer before paying an eBay seller a lot of money for a used one, but sometimes eBay makes for convenience.

If stuck over Carista fault codes, contact them directly for answers, I did that when my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI suffered what Carista translated into Air Conditioning EGR valve issue - I used my VCDS to find out the correct meaning of that code and told them, they did not seem to be concerned, or even grateful!

I think that I reported years ago that VW replaced the AR top gearbox mounting for an AS FOC within warranty because I kept complaining about something like "drive line shunt" after the first service from new, they did remove the original AR mounting and cover/smother it in copper grease first time round, I think that originally was VW's cunning "fix" to get applied during warranty, that did work - for almost a week! I'll save the info about the stiffer lower link for the future - thanks!

Is there not a join where that hose passes through the firewall/bulkhead into the cabin area, below the ABS pump/valve block assembly? That info is not from my personal experience, but gleaned from VW Group motoring forums! Edit:- ah, I see leak source now discovered, maybe consider sticking to the same thread for a single issue in future.

Good, it is best to hand out some details when you have an issue, just in case that issue is only a concern with that engine code. I was going off on another track there, so I can't add anything to this thread.

I think for most of the big issues, ie ones that could cause danger to life of occupants or other road users, VW Group do follow the rules and hand over the info and the re-calling to DVLA, some like the slackening inlet variable cam shaft pulley on the earliest 1.2TSI 16V seemed to be left to being "if advised by owner", some like the leaking of HP petrol on the same engines don't seem to be a concern after all it is only petrol that is spraying out onto the front of the engine and the road, so no real issue - maybe! Lots and lots of "fixes" are only applied if reported by an awkward customer. My wife's previous car, a September 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V with the BBY engine, did tend to spit out some weird engine fault codes in winter, typically only in January, VW dealer said that nothing had been raised to resolve that, I found out that that was not true 6 or 7 years later, by that time even pressing them to apply the correct S/W patch and me paying for it got me nowhere, they were not interested, so no where else really to turn, so I resorted to clearing logged faults every February from then onwards. My older daughter's November 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 16V ended up having a a battery draining issue, I chased that for a year for more before bumping into some forum info that confirmed that there had been a fix, a BCM S/W patch, so I handed that car into SEAT dealership, problem traced back to a clockspring assembly issue, that part was sourced and replaced, biggish money paid, car handed back, same battery drain as before, handed back in, no fault found, while I was planning my next move, the owner of that group closed down that dealership as it could be sold for in-town housing, I complained to SEAT UK and they said that they would hand me over to the next local SEAT dealership and support that investigation while understanding that I had paid money out already for no fix - that ended up just being "brush off" treatment. A year later I chatted to the next nearest but maybe undesirable SEAT dealership, the service reception guy recognised that very issue as they had just sorted out the same issue on a 2009 VW Polo 1.4 16V in the workshop, so they went through the same procedure with SEAT UK, were guided to where to find the SEAT equivalent S/W patch, and applied it, job done! My point being, both these issues were known about, but left until the customer complained about them before starting to resolve them - in the case of the VW Polo one, never! Edit:- to be fair, it is not just a VW Group issue, I had a case of bubbles appearing in the power steering fluid when the brake pedal was pressed quite a few times with the engine stopped, in my old 1991 Vauxhall Cav GSI 2000 16V 4X4. The correct procedure for checking the power steering fluid level was to first press the brake pedal 10 times, then check the level - I found that fluid was being ejected from the open reservoir due to air being added into it! Had a chat with local Vauxhall workshop, that caused a lot of laughing at my expense from the Tech and mechanics! Maybe 2 months later DVLA sent out a recall for faulty four wheel drive control sphere, I booked it in, no laughing now, a new sphere with a white collar painted on it was fitted, problem solved - at least in that case, Vauxhall did trigger a general safety or semi-safety re-call via DVLA, so maybe I'm wrong and it remains mainly a VW Group issue leaving customers on their own. BTW, that car used the power steering fluid as a control medium for the four wheel drive control.

What engine is in this car?

I had that issue many years ago, that point or area certainly with the BBY 1.4 16V was a bit tight for just slapping in roughly the correct sized repair section, so choose carefully, also the exhaust gets very hot in that area, so pick the grade of flexi repair section that is suitable for that, the correct flexi should have 2 internal wrappings then the protection on the outside. You really do need to get under that car and measure the pipe diameter at that point and also measure the length of the flexi section - ie the full length of the section that has protective mesh covering on it - you will see welds where the flexi section got welded to its stubs - then the stubs are welded to the exhaust pipe. I bought mine from senioraftermarket and got an exhaust specialist to weld it into place - but that was back in the day when the only source for a new exhaust section was VW Group and that meant serious money, if you can buy an aftermarket new exhaust section for not too much, that would be the easy way to fix this as certainly in the earlier BBY engine exhaust, there just was not a free space to fit in a simple "clamp in" clamp, which it not the smart way to fix this any way, welding is. Edit:- I will have submitted the sizes in a thread I raised way back in maybe 2006/2007, I had asked someone to check the dimensions of their flexi section - I needed to do that as my exhaust specialist failed to sort it out correctly first time round - so I could not check the original flexi as it would have been binned and the new one was not the right dimensions!

I've never considered that side and rear glass was covered by windscreen cover and I'm with Admiral But, here are the part numbers LHS rear door glass 5J6 845 205 J for clear glass, K for normal tinted glass, L for tinted but darker tint beyond B pillar LHS rear fixed glass inc bits 5J6 845 209 AF for clear glass > 29/09/13 AJ for clear glass 30/09/13 onwards AG for normal tinted > 29/09/13 AK for normal tinted 30/09/13 onwards LHS rear fixed glass inc bits AH for tinted by darker beyond B pillar > 29/09/13 AL for tinted but darker beyond B pillar 30/09/19 onwards Edit:- would an emergency temp fix with plexi glass not work and be easier at least for your insurer to arrange? Another edit:- I've assumed that your car is not a combi.

I understand what you are saying, like I'd like to hear/say that they understand that this task involves replacing the clutch/flywheel, drive shaft and S/W changing, if nothing else but to give you confidence that what you think is being done, is being done completely as per VW Group instruction for this conversion. It is also important to understand that if you prescribe what you want done, and money is of utmost importance, a more "customer compliant" workshop might try to give you what you have asked for and not completely as they would normal do wrt this task - in a bid to save you some money and to work to your strict directions, most professional workshops would make sure that what they are doing, is exactly what VW Group outlines for that conversion - otherwise they could leave themselves open to the customer trying to back track when things did not go as expected.

Back to the original issue, DMF > SMF, I've just read that the official conversion kit includes a solid RHS drive shaft, and a S/W update.

I've always left that to the individual VW Groups dealership parts departments to provide that for/to me on request, if I was an accomplished user of Ekta ect - and I'm not, I would probably work out where it is located.

That is exactly the purpose of CAR DATA and why it can come in handy - in any individual car model there will be options for lots of parts, CAR DATA defines them for that individual car, and in many cases supplies you with a build date - if that is needed. In my example of a very late build factory customer order car, taking one area into account - suspension, many parts had changed to the face lifted model parts were physically possible, no OEM part web cat I used listed the correct parts, even VW dealership parts people who kept 1,000,000 parts numbers in their heads, like some parts people do, would get it right for me for that car.

Then they would need to sort that supply error out, I'm sure that it happens now and again, this might be where "CAR DATA" comes into it's own, when I had a very late VW Passat 4Motion, the first time I ordered parts for it, my local VW parts man handed out a CAR DATA printout and advised me to hold onto that and use it when requesting parts, from that point on, and that was in maybe 2001 or 2002, I've always made sure that I request a printout of CAR DATA for every new car we, as a family have bought, some times it takes visiting a second dealership if the service/parts people are younger/not interested as they don't always know where to find that info on their system.

Opie Oils, yes it even allows you to find out other peoples engine numbers, which can be handy!

I can see that you don't feel like ending up turning this "one stop shop" into a potentially "three stop shop", but maybe looking forward, check out exactly where your local VW Group Indie is located and aim to give them your business if/when necessary. These business tend to rely on word of mouth more than normal local garages, so doing the right job in the right way is high on their minds.

I was just looking at this from another way, VW Group seem to have messed up this DMF integration into this platform, so doing what I suggested would keep most of extra cost/earnings away from Skoda dealership, a good local VW Group Indie would have the knowledge and licenses to recode your car in exactly the same way as Skoda would do, that is still an option for you. Everyone wants/aims to only spend what is required to complete most tasks - dealerships have massive overheads which customers tend to end up paying for - that is all.

I'm guessing that you and/or your independent garage that you have used, are not willing to buy what Skoda is now providing to do a DMF>SMF conversion and so save some cash and that garage be able to sort you out properly?

Here is the instruction to remove the same assembly on a 2014> Polo:- Removing – Screw off tank cover. – Remove bolt -2-. – Peel rubber grommet off the fuel filler neck. – Pull tank flap unit -1- together with water drainage hose -3- towards rear -arrow a- out of fasteners and swing tank flap unit -1- out of side panel -arrow b-. "towards arrow "a" " means towards the rear of the car. "out of side panel arrow"b" " means outwards away from the body panel. Installing – Insert water drainage hose -3- through opening in tank flap unit and then pull it through as far as it will go. – Push water drainage hose -3- into side panel. – With hinge side leading, push tank flap unit -1- into side panel -arrow a-. – Then, swing tank flap unit completely into the side panel -arrow b-. Make sure that locking hooks engage correctly in side panel. – Pull rubber sleeve over fuel tank filler neck and tighten screw. Specified torque for bolt -2-: 1.5 Nm "arrow "a" " in this case means the reverse of the direction "arrow "b" " in the removal instruction. "arrow "b" " in this case means the opposite direction to "arrow "a" " in the removal instruction. Try that and see if it makes any sense.

Yes, of course the complete assembly will need to be replaced, but what I meant was, that if you examine the rear of the new assembly, you should gain some insight into how it locates in the car's side panel, and so, after removing the screw, should be able to manipulate it in a way that allows you to get the old one out and the new one in, without causing any body damage.

I know how to do that, years ago when we had a small bit of grass to cut, I bought a Flymo, so now and again I needed to buy new cutting "fingers" for it. Then, one Spring day we went to a garden centre and I bought a new pack of "fingers", and opened the glovebox of wife's car, a Fiesta 1.6Si, to put that new pack somewhere "safe" - and there was the previous pack, very annoying! Bulbs are only getting worse, though now mainly they are long life versions in newer, trickier to find and more expensive than when they were just the regular types, so changing most lights to LEDs has just ended up making your bulb spares kit a lot more expensive - and meant my box of "now not needed on ours cars" new unused bulbs, is getting quite full!

Can you not look at the rear of the new part and see if the top comes out first and then you ease the fitting up vertically to disengage from the body?

Good info, it could come in handy in the future for any VW Group car! I'm guessing that removing the broken fitting was quite simple after removing the screw - obviously the drain pipe needs removing before swopping parts.

There is a lower level at which point import taxes kick in, I'm not sure if parts being "used" will make any difference, I bought some Premium Philips bulbs from/via Amazon UK - the seller turned out to be in Bulgaria! That package zipped into Germany within hours and then across Germany to its exit point within another few hours - then arrived at my door 16 days later, which was what the seller did tell me after I bought them, I was in no hurry though maybe a bit concerned how that purchase would end up as I naively thought I was buying from UK, such is life, so I reckoned that moving stuff out of the EU area is still causing issues that introduce delays! I'm always a bit suspicious when genuine car parts take a long time to arrive, normally in my experience of Audi, VW and SEAT, it is next or the next day from UK warehouse, or a couple more days from mainland Europe - is it due to lack of demand or due to high demand is the question. That pipe or the the high pressure one has protective wrapping on the flexi section, my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI has ended up being contaminated with oil, but I think that happened at its first service time, it has a leak somewhere in the AC system, but so far I've not located it using a pumped gas sniffer, next step is to remove the front bumper cover, hopefully it will be a damaged condenser.