Danoid

I suspect we might see it at this years Tour De Bore/France. I believe the kodiaq had a sneak peak years ago at the same event

Hang on, I’m not sure if everyone is getting confused. According to the picture varoom posted which is the official workshop manual the belt has to be changed every 120000km. Every 210000km is just for the pulley

It is a bit of a mess for the times to change it. UK it’s time based, everywhere else pretty much 130k miles. Mine is beyond due as it’s 2016 reg, but holding off for now because of cost reasons and I averagely do about 4k miles a year, but I do know the water pump is somewhat a weak point and new pump is a different revision so better? Is there a replacement time for water pump like every 5 years, and UK interrupted that as pump and belt every 5 years? As you’d be a bit mad not to do both at the same time

When the radio mutes use your volume scroll wheel on your steering wheel and increase the volume as it sounds like it’s set low. I use the built in satnav and that’s how you can increase the sound, rather than in the menus. It’s worth a shot

I’m pretty sure on my 2016 it’s meant to be automatic based on GPS location so I’d expect it to be the same (but I do have the on/off option), but then it can’t even sort the time change to +-1 hour even though it’s on automatic.

Don’t the miserable MOT testers put down “plastics obscuring parts” nonsense aswell 😂

It’ll only be the bog standard one, I’ll never have an extended scope done with me paying as that’s a bit of a joke. I mean £185 or so for oil and inspection is high enough, but knowing if a diagnostic is really added in makes it more understandable. I’ll have a look at my previous documents to see if it mentions diagnostics, I’m just curious to know if my air quality sensor is working or not I guess they will scan it as they have to plug it in to reset the oil counter anyway

Hey up, I’m due a service and I was looking on the Skoda website which says a diagnostic check is completed, but I don’t think I’ve ever had a diagnostic report printed out and given back to me as paperwork. Should they?

I’ve got the 6 speed, unless it’s different on 7 speeds. When I leave my house, just before the junction I begin to let off the accelerator the cars already slowing down and barely need to press the brakes If I do the same thing with eco on and coming to a slow stop I’ve already been applying he brakes for a good 5 seconds. If I do that for the rest of my journey by the end my discs look brand new again

If you’ve got a DSG it’ll use engine braking or DSG holds the revs (not 100% sure) but when you put the car into eco it does a lot of coasting, so when you apply the brakes you need to hold down for longer, which then clears the crap off the rear a lot better. I make it a habit to engage eco at least once a month just to clear the brakes up. so basically with eco on, you’ll be coasting more and able to apply the brakes for longer

If you have DSG, put the car into eco mode and it’ll bring the rears to life. I had my rear disks changed to brembos because of the padding but OE pads done by my local Skoda dealer

The correct lifting on a 4 post is the sills believe it or not

I’d be more inclined to change the battery if you use it every day and still got the warnings. I started my car the other day and got the 12 low charge by driving, warning but I expected that as it was very cold and don’t think I used my car for a few weeks. When I saw that messaged I drove a long route and near the destination I enabled stop/start and it worked fine

I saw UKCA on something earlier too, so I’m not sure if it’s some new logo that’s meant to mean something, I’ll have a google. The both chrome ends jobby looks good but I’m pretty sure that’s for keyless only, but I have the old school (which I prefer) flip key

Finally got round to changing my spare key “cap” interestingly from 2 years ago it’s a new part number with even more icons 😂 2 years ago end cap 2022/23 version but so much better than original New part number of anyone wants it and it was larking £18

Just out of interest how are you getting to the scuttle area? When I looked on mine I’m sure it looks like the wipers need to be removed. Others had said on here it slides off but can’t see how, could you take a picture of your mesh panel area when it’s off please?

Personally I’d just enjoy it as everything seems to be done

This is fairly common on here as people have manually adjusted the headlight up which I might need to do after fitting new bulbs as the OE bulbs are rather crap to be honest. As it does the dance and stays up that’s good as there was a software fix for some people’s cars where it does the dance but stays down on one side. A few weeks ago I had really bad light output on the left, I thought it had stuck down on mine (my car not affected for software according to Skoda) but I did set to driving mode Eco which then disables cornering function, so I stopped and turned the car off, it done its dance but was still low on the left side. I then used my washer and it cleaned the headlight and was fine. So give that a go next time or clean the headlight yourself. If that doesn’t help, it’s possible your light is affected by the software glitch or even the self levelling arm has broken but I’m not sure if that would through an error on the dash

Ah that’s a shame the pollen filter hasn’t made a difference. If you let your car idling on your drive do you smell fumes then? If you do that would suggest a breather hose but on such a new car I’d like to think that’s unlikely. You can always get an AC bomb cleaner and let it do it’s things. Theres still the potential of there is no smell and you’re imagining it, especially as no one else can smell it 😬

Get this https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Vehicles/CARS %2B TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Superb III (3V)/2.0 TDI DDAA, DFCA (T00000000332484)/Cabin Air Filter/FP 26 009 Also if you have a decent code reader use it and you might find a faulty sensor (air quality?), I’ve seen on here a few people’s air quality sensor has failed. What it’s meant to do is when it detects fumes it puts recirc on automatically or something like that. Cheapest way is changing your pollen filter to that one, but double check it’s the correct one for your car, it is for mine so should be. Or this might sound crazy but you could even be getting covid symptoms, my smell went haywire before I fully came down to it and fumes/smoke was exactly what I could smell the most when no one else could

There’s this thread too with a video posted few more angles on that video which you can check and you’ll know if it’s the same issue as you hopefully

Ah that’s somewhat good to hear you can see it. If you won’t be fixing this yourself, you can at least show a mechanic where you can see it leaking from. Id also now get it booked in, top up before you go there but don’t use the car in the meantime

I’m not too familiar with the 1.4tsi but I just found this Have a look round yours and see if you can find it, it’s very obvious on his because of the pink coolant. I’d say aslong as you can see coolant you’ve hit the jackpot and by that I mean it’s not a head gasket or matrix. His accent is funky but sounds like water pump is not belt driven which is good at least

Judging by some others on here it could be leaking at the water pump. When did it last have the cambelt + water pump changed? Personally I’d put a UV dye in the coolant system and go hunting at night with a torch and glasses, as it could be a pipe aswell

Have a check at your laws in Australia regarding DRL. As your car is 2016 you should be able to turn them off and it’ll pass. In UK only cars from 2018 have to have working DRL. I’d imagine Australia is similar