Danoid

I’m certain folk on here say when a battery is on its way out it causes so many false positives with codes, so just get it replaced with a varta battery. You’ll need to check if you have an AGM or EFB battery and replace like for like. It will need to be coded at a garage or with the correct diagnostic tools. If you replace like for like and same power then all that needs changing is the serial number which can be anything and maybe the manufacturer 4 years doesn’t seem a lot for a battery but all sorts can shorten life.

I didn’t know this was a thing but hopefully it’s just a hose or o ring. Might be worth getting rid of all of it so it looks new, go for a drive or just let it idle and see if you can see the source before it builds up like that

Ah that’s annoying but like you said it’s only about £10 and hopefully quality control is a bit better as I’m after 2

I fancy the traffic light indicator way for my car and the wife’s, quick glance and I’ll know it needs a charge. I should be able to mount it somewhere in the grills for quick connection. I was looking at the 5 or 7 a while back, just need to beat all rounder for normal batteries and AGM

Awesome should be the same then, they do make an M6 eyelet so I’ll get that, or by then hopefully find an M6 nut somewhere to confirm

Hello, so I don’t need to bother with this just yet but would like to know the ways. I’d like to get the ctek charger but also have the comfort indicator, as far as I can tell the comfort indicator goes to the positive and negative on the battery to give you the status of the battery, is this true? If the comfort indicator has to go on positive and negative then it can be used for charging as the negative needs to go on the chassis point. If it’s all good, what size is the battery accessory terminal, is it M8? thanks

Woohoo, free easy fix, result

It’s not doing a regen is it?

I’m only guessing here, but isn’t there normally a flap buried near the center console which moves from cold to hot? The fact it’s just the drivers side makes me think something is up with the HVAC side of things. Try looking for flap adjustments for a Skoda and plug it in and do a scan (if you haven’t already), I guess you’d be able to force a calibration in vcds too. I might be talking rubbish but ya never know Edit: look at the comment by tommi, fingers crossed

Map updates are free and I somehow get live traffic without Skoda connect, unless it’s different on newer models compared to 2016?

You quoted me but not my reply somehow, but I do agree with what you’re saying as they sound inept at fault finding/resolving

As you know the ways, take it out and leave it 30 minutes or so and plug back in, could just be a horrible gremlin and free to try at the first instance

Personally when you pick it up ask one of the mechanics to come with you and go for a drive, if it plays up (test everything multiple times) leave it back with them. It’ll be better to do that then take it home thinking it’s all good

I assume these still have coolant temperature sensors, worth a shot changing that as it’s not normally that expensive, could be throwing a false positive No idea where it’s located though

I wouldn’t be concerned at slight drop in mpg, it’s getting colder. No idea how you’re getting that high mpg though, I only get about average 43mpg on a long run according to the computer

Is there another dealership other than who you use? Might be worth taking it to them and say “I’m hoping you’ll be better at trying to fix it” might be something they’ll try harder at to keep you a customer going forward. As far as I’m aware if it’s in warranty still you can take it where you like (any Skoda franchise I mean) Have you contacted Skoda directly? If not be worth a shot

The time they said it should be changed is correct if you’re anywhere but UK, but we clearly have different parts fitted to the ROW (yeah right…)

Was it second hand when you got it? If you do sell it, post the reg on here so people don’t buy a lemon

Are you American? If so no need for the disclaimer, we won’t sue you

Interestingly enough when my car does a regen and I notice I’ll head for the nearest motorway and it stays in 5th on my DSG, when it goes into 6th I know it’s finished

I went to mine as I was convinced I had it, opened the door and nothing, I then doubted myself but you need to have ignition on and it comes to life

This is in the back of mine

I thought the clock was standard, also displays outside temp I believe

How do you know if you’ve adjusted too much or too little? For example if I park 7meters away, do I mark the top of the light beam, then adjust the lights so it’s higher but by how much, 5cm 10cm? That’s the bit I’m confused at 😞

No smells at all from mine, unless I get back from a drive and a regen is just finishing, but that’s like a hot metal smell If your gut is questioning it, it might be wise to walk away. You could always do another test drive and see if it’s noticeable again but stop somewhere completely different half way on your test drive as it could have been as simple as parking over a diesel leak Put your finger in the exhaust and smear your finger around, as it has a DPF your finger should be nearly spotless, if it’s really black then your gut should be listened to. Bit strange but I never clean my exhaust and can show you a picture of what my finger looks like after compare if you like (like I said a bit strange haha)