Danoid

I’m sure I’ve read water usually comes in from light cluster or the boot seal itself. Cant remember reading if the light cluster has a replaceable external gasket or just taking it off and cleaning it is the fix

This is the blurp from the government site https://www.gov.uk/government/news/end-of-halogen-light-bulbs-spells-brighter-and-cleaner-future This is for the Osrams, others are the same where they provide such info like Philips https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjMltP93J_8AhUKQEEAHT1NAJkQFnoECCEQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.osram.com%2Fappsj%2Fpdc%2Fpdf.do%3Fcid%3DGPS01_3043435%26vid%3DPP_EUROPE_Europe_eCat%26lid%3DEN%26mpid%3D&usg=AOvVaw0tuav8lPjPSjU2Up6x_-V2

It’s not just about the draw they use, it’s the materials needed and the waste they produce. Look at any high performing halogens for cars, it’s around 200-250 hours and that’s when failures are most likely to occur. Judging by your replies are you anti led? I don’t really understand where you’re coming from

Yep 😞

The same rules still apply in the other European countries, it’ll just fail their MOTS like ours would. With those Osrams as they’ve been designed for on road you won’t get all the glare of the cheap ones but that ultimately comes down to the people who chose to use non street legal leds. You don’t need to change the headlight either to fit them. There’s no difference between our headlight in this country compared to a superb sold in Germany (other than lhd/rhd). We just need Vosa to pull a finger out Its funny our government recently made it law that halogen bulbs can no longer be sold from September 2023, except for car bulbs which is the biggest waste there is as some only last as little as 200 hours

I’ve had two Passats b5.5, I was looking into getting the B6 and so many issues, so I just stuck with my B5.5 for a while and went for a superb. Im not sure I’ll go back to a Passat again to be honest. I see no reason to get rid of my superb for at least another 7 years. By then it’ll all be electric only (new cars), by 2030 petrol/diesel/hybrid will be seen as the anti Christ. Who knows what my next car will be then but Skoda has my loyalty for now so probably another Skoda. All my cars so far have been taxi cars Audi A6, VW Passat and Superb. So whatever is used as Taxis in 2030 and German will be what I’ll get most likely haha

I meant after market ones, the new Osram night breaker leds are road legal just not in UK They do have a list of cars they’ve certified them on and the superb is one of them, but it would be for halogen headlights as that’s H7/H4 https://www.osram.de/am/night-breaker-led/night-breaker-led-ledcheck.jsp?mkt=/nb-led/ https://www.osram.com/ecat/NIGHT BREAKER H7-LED-LED lamps (street-legal)-Car lighting-Automotive/com/en/GPS01_3401765/ Osram led compared to NBL xenon https://youtu.be/SYBMbS0rES4

Hopefully one day the UK VOSA will wake up and allow road legal (in a few other European countries already) Do you disconnect the ballast to put in the LED bulbs?

The tyres sizes you said is wrong, standard is 235/40/19 for 19’s. When the tyres on it die get the Goodyear asymmetric 6’s, lovely and quiet If you’re going to be spending that much money, bargain on the price a bit then buy your own full winter alloys, but with the 280ps I’m not sure if the 17” still fits. Have you looked how much insurance is and road tax, being 280 I doubt it’s cheap, and like you say running costs but that’s everything atm 😞

Ah good point, I’ve not keyless personally. I guess they could make it wireless charging though and put it on the charge pad in the car when it says it’s low

Got in the car the other day and key fob battery warning came up. Put in new battery I had sitting around for a year and 100% dead. Used my spare key, same message 🥲. Just went to Screwfix to get two new ones and good for now. Hopefully Skoda at some point will put in rechargeable batteries which get charged as you drive, simply stupidly obvious thing to do

How much did you turn it by?

Are you pressing and holding the button?

I’m certain folk on here say when a battery is on its way out it causes so many false positives with codes, so just get it replaced with a varta battery. You’ll need to check if you have an AGM or EFB battery and replace like for like. It will need to be coded at a garage or with the correct diagnostic tools. If you replace like for like and same power then all that needs changing is the serial number which can be anything and maybe the manufacturer 4 years doesn’t seem a lot for a battery but all sorts can shorten life.

I didn’t know this was a thing but hopefully it’s just a hose or o ring. Might be worth getting rid of all of it so it looks new, go for a drive or just let it idle and see if you can see the source before it builds up like that

Ah that’s annoying but like you said it’s only about £10 and hopefully quality control is a bit better as I’m after 2

I fancy the traffic light indicator way for my car and the wife’s, quick glance and I’ll know it needs a charge. I should be able to mount it somewhere in the grills for quick connection. I was looking at the 5 or 7 a while back, just need to beat all rounder for normal batteries and AGM

Awesome should be the same then, they do make an M6 eyelet so I’ll get that, or by then hopefully find an M6 nut somewhere to confirm

Hello, so I don’t need to bother with this just yet but would like to know the ways. I’d like to get the ctek charger but also have the comfort indicator, as far as I can tell the comfort indicator goes to the positive and negative on the battery to give you the status of the battery, is this true? If the comfort indicator has to go on positive and negative then it can be used for charging as the negative needs to go on the chassis point. If it’s all good, what size is the battery accessory terminal, is it M8? thanks

Woohoo, free easy fix, result

It’s not doing a regen is it?

I’m only guessing here, but isn’t there normally a flap buried near the center console which moves from cold to hot? The fact it’s just the drivers side makes me think something is up with the HVAC side of things. Try looking for flap adjustments for a Skoda and plug it in and do a scan (if you haven’t already), I guess you’d be able to force a calibration in vcds too. I might be talking rubbish but ya never know Edit: look at the comment by tommi, fingers crossed

Map updates are free and I somehow get live traffic without Skoda connect, unless it’s different on newer models compared to 2016?

You quoted me but not my reply somehow, but I do agree with what you’re saying as they sound inept at fault finding/resolving

As you know the ways, take it out and leave it 30 minutes or so and plug back in, could just be a horrible gremlin and free to try at the first instance