encephalopathy

is it the sound aktuator? i had an infuriating buzz from underneath the internal mirror surround and had to take the cover off and use a little bit of foam to stop the buzz. it was a bit fiddly to remove - you need a shim to unclick both hidden clips

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/461233-how-to-remove-rear-view-mirror-surround-octavia-mk3-fl-vrs/?tab=comments#comment-5176667 hope that helps a little!

it could be a suspension drop link, when mine started failing i would get a clonk from certain bumps but initially it was hard to replicate

mine retracted slowly - a tee shirt had got caught up it the mechanism - check nothing is binding if you need a replacement one - either a car breakers or ebay probably your best bet - for example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SKODA-OCTAVIA-MK3-ESTATE-2013-2018-PARCEL-SHELF-LOAD-COVER-BLACK/264261202503?epid=1585362083&hash=item3d8731f247:g:kyEAAOSworNcUDYl

they are the black (pro springs)

What is the easiest way to remove the circular bonnet and boot logo badges? not keen on levering and potentially denting the surrounding metalwork, but want to fit my new colour coded badges from superskoda

Echo this. I have a bilstein b12 kit and thicker ARBs front and rear. Have had to replace all the original droplinks when they failed within a month of each other and fitted new topmounts when the new dampers went in. Handles really well now though....

Yikes, I regularly get 8-10k from fronts This is my first winter with proper winter tyres and i think they are pretty good , continental winter contact ts850. I can get wheelspin inthird gear though

I have a Sachs replacement clutch fitted. Bit firmer to press in than the stock one but you get used to it in no time. Needed a new clutch release bearing as well when it was fitted. Dog bone mount is worth s little extra nvh instead of that awful axletramp. It does settle down after a couple of weeks, but is noticeable esp on startup If you are going to upgrade ARBs (someone mentioned it above) my top tip is to replace all 4 droplinks at the same time. I didn't and after a few months the extra stress of thicker ARBs killed them within a couple of weeks of each other. Fronts first , then rear

The garage I used is McMillan specialist cars in Antrim. They are indy Porsche specialists but have sorted out my Octavia very well. They have a hunter machine and can do corner weighting if needed. Highly recommended!

My 2016 vrs ones are 55mm diameter if that helps

i like the look of the superskoda ones with the background colour to match your car colour but baulk at paying ~80 euro for a pair. will stick with a rattlecan of black plastidip for a tenner

my mirror assembly is slightly different but i had a creak and ended up removing the cover using a very narrow thin blunt shim (victorinox card tool) where the yellow arrows are added to the diagram (between piece 2 and piece 3) in order to unclick the fasteners and remove the mirror casing to add in a little piece of foam to fix the creak/buzz i had hope this helps

If you upgrade your ARBs consider replacing the droplinks at the same time otherwise you could end up with front and rears failing a couple of months after the ARB upgrade. Presumably the extra forces on them from the thicker ARBs cause this (30k miles on the car, around 2k since ARB upgrade)

which size is it for the octy III 80 or 90mm?

afaik its not a performance enhancing part and is designed to vent to atmosphere (hence muffler delete) which gives you the psssccchhhhttt sound. if you don't like that sound then a turbo muffler delete is not for you. if you want performance improvements consider a replacement turbo inlet hose +/- changes to the air intake (the intake again may not give bhp gains but does make induction noise a bit more audible) probably the best performance improvement i have made to date (other than a remap) is upgrading the front and rear antiroll bars. i can corner much more confidently than before and lots of extra bhp don't do much when you are going round a corner......

i have fitted one of these boomba golf 7 bov which was an easy fit and substantially cheaper

it may be that some of the mounts/bushings need re-lubed - much cheaper than bits needing replaced :)

if you do upgrade engine mounts be prepared for some increase in noise/vibration/harshness especially when the car has just been started. it really does help eliminate wheelhop though

my car developed a hollow knocking sound from front nearside suspension area that rapidly became worse over the course of a few short trips. i was convinced it was a dying shock absorber (google "mark 7 golf faulty damper") but it turns out the suspension droplink has snapped. thankfully it hasn't snagged anything important and a new pair is relatively inexpensive. i wonder if you have the golf mk7 shock issue....?

cheers - do you have a stock number for the conduit?

any tips on how to remove the trim in the top picture directly below the rear dashcam? (goes fill width across back window and halfway down at each side) i need to tidy my install up and having this removed to help with wire placement would be useful. i can't work out where the clips are.....

http://www.boombaracing.com/mk7-volkswagen-gti-golf-r-quick-shift-kit/ i have these and as a pair work really well together. you need to trim a little of the original gaiter off with a craft knife and resecure it when the new gearknob is put on

i used a very thin blade (from a victorinox swiss army credit card thing) to pop the tabs and remove the access panel and put some foam around the wires to stop the buzzing - worked a treat!