hhcd80

Thanks for that. Considering adjusting the volume of the sound actuator as it gets a bit too loud when I'm putting my foot down to overtake.

Out of curiosity, what cars does this apply to? All MQB models? And can this be done in VCDS/Obdeleven with the information given or does it require ODIS no exceptions?

I've experienced this problem. It might be the actual boot opening switch itself. I ended up needing a replacement switch to be fitted.

I've had this happen with the majority of cars I've owned. My last two (Both Vauxhall Insignias) would require the wheel to be slightly off centre to the left especially when driving at high speeds to remain straight. I just put it down to wear and tear as well as engine torque causing the car to veer slightly to one side. It was never serious enough to warrant any further adjustment as the tracking was reported as OK in all the services both cars had.

If the version of VCDS you are using is fake, you probably won't get any help. Depending on what website you bought it from, it might be a cloned version which isn't supported. The only places that sell genuine versions of VCDS and the associated Hex interface cable from what I can see (Who will probably be most useful to you) are: Switzerland Reseller/DE Language https://shop.dieselschrauber.org/ France Reseller/FR Language https://rosstech.fr/ If the price of a genuine interface and VCDS are too expensive, there is OBDEleven which is a slightly cheaper alternative but it has a different interface and needs you to have a relatively modern Apple or Android Phone/Tablet to use. https://obdeleven.com/fr/ Outside of those options, you might want to ask if there is anyone who lives near by who has a genuine version of VCDS and a Hex cable you can borrow. I can't help you here as I personally have no experience of retrofitting and coding outside of enabling adaptations already available on the car. Best of luck.

I don't think MIB1 has Mirrorlink, if this previous thread is anything to go by.

OK little update. Obvious massive disclaimer in that your mileage may vary and there is a chance this might not be a permanent fix. I saw that ABD were selling these 501/W5W LED bulbs which claimed a higher success rate in dealing with CANBUS Errors. As we all know, nothing is guaranteed but I decided to give them a punt. I needed something with side emitting LEDs as the cheap Halfords ones did the job but are more suited for downwards aiming reading lights IMHO. Worst comes to worst these Twenty20 units would end up going into the boot lights instead. Well, I've tried them today and it seems no errors popping up after several OBDEleven scans. And they have the added bonus of looking pretty good. If you don't notice the door light on with these things in, you were probably not paying attention to the road! 🤣 Will update further but it seems these bulbs might be the solution for at least for me.

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but for those still having problems, I discovered that you can also remove the end cap of the rear wiper (At least on hatchbacks) and then pull the actual rear washer nozzle off. This makes it easier to unblock it via pins or other means and you can test if the washer pipes are still connected. If washer fluid sprays out without the nozzle on, you know the issue is there. Probably stating the obvious but that is what I did and managed to fix a lot of washer problems that way.

https://www.hypermiler.co.uk/technical-guides-and-faqs/is-it-illegal-to-remove-or-disable-your-egr-valve

If it's of any use as a data point, my Mk3 VRS (PFL 66 plate/MY2017) has the double C style lights. The top row of LEDs lighting up in between the top part of the "C" when the brakes are applied.

Don't have a Mk4 Octy myself (Only a Mk3) but I am reading this thread and also baffled by the decisions regarding the indicator bulbs. They are also sealed in on the Mk3 and need (Officially anyway) a bumper and light unit removal, along with a "repair kit" to patch the hole you cut out. What is the average lifetime of an indicator bulb anyway? Are they expected to last the lifetime of the vehicle? Just seems odd that Skoda's seem to have sealed in indicator bulbs but they can be relatively more easily replaced on all the other cars I've owned in the past.

Yeah no problems. I do wonder what the future holds when they finally outlaw filament bulbs entirely even for cars but that is a topic for another time.

I've swapped the bulbs back to the filament ones. No errors popping up. A bit more searching revealed some people have run into these problems with no solution so far. Given up on the door warning lights so far. Might invest in the so called "CANBUS error free T10 LED bulbs" you linked to see if they work any better but it's not essential so far.

I am assuming that you have already enabled beam assist from your previous comments. The list of adaptations does have a search function as well. If you still can't find it, then it might be a change in your particular car. Looking at your profile you say your Octy is a 2018 model so assuming a facelift variant. That may have something to do with it.

When I experimented with lowering the headlight beam assist speeds, I followed the instructions here: In OBDEleven, the screens are obviously different. I'll attach screenshots of what screens I used to adjust the beam assist speeds. I ended up switching them back to factory speeds as I don't do enough driving on lower speed dark rural roads. Not the speeds are listed in KM per hour rather than Miles per hour. Hopefully this helps.

Not sure about the exact spec you are looking for, but from previous experience, you will find used car sales staff rarely have your interest at heart, only their own. As I mentioned previously on another thread on a similar vein, I took a gamble with a certain competitor to "Gazoo" as you mentioned. It worked out well for me but I was ready to hand the car back within the "cooling off" period at the first sign of any serious trouble. In my very humble opinion, your best bet would be to keep shopping around, try and view the car in person if possible and don't be afraid to hand it back if something really plays up or just walk away if it seems too good to be true.

Thanks for the information folks. So finally got round to changing all the interior bulbs for LEDs. Decided to go with the Halfords Essential range ones. I have noticed however after scanning with OBDEleven to check, the ones I placed in the red warning door lights are throwing up errors. Nothing appearing in the dashboard though and everything seems to be working, aside from a slight glow when the ignition is up and running (I read somewhere this can happen with certain LED bulbs and cars). Do I need to worry about this long term? Do the door warning lights need coding or is my MY17 PFL Octy somehow different? Again many thanks in advance.

OK I managed to find the information in the workshop manuals. Looks like it is 501/W5W bulbs. Now just need to know if LED drop in replacements needs any VCDS coding or not. If anyone know for certain, I would appreciate that information.

Hello folks. Anyone know what bulbs are replacements for the boot lights in the Octy hatchback? I assume they are 501/W5W from what I saw when I prised out the holders but would like confirmation. I know for the interior compartment lights don't require coding but is that also the same for the boot lights? Is there any other pitfalls I need to be aware of? Cheers in advance.

Sorry for hijacking the thread, but on a related note, considering swapping out the interior light bulbs for LED ones. Is there any special considerations I need to take into account i.e. coding, Cambus compatibility, other modifications to make sure they work as intended etc.?

Little update. Still getting the error. Attached is a obdeleven screenshot. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello everyone. I noticed that OBDEleven has been showing the climate control in my Octavia VRS has been throwing up the error code in the title (P171900). A quick search on the forums comes up with a few threads about it but no concrete information. I haven't noticed anything untoward with the climate control itself and no errors have shown up on the dashboard or infotainment system. Is this a fault I need to be worried about? Could it be a sign of some other problem? Many thanks in advance.

One guy did leave the engine running to keep power to the infotainment system during the update. It didn't seem to cause him any problems but I personally decided to use a battery charger instead. Follow any advice in the video tutorial at your own risk.

Personal advice here. Also have a long narrow screwdriver or stick of some sort as well. Makes it easier to remove and reseat the damper rod that is connected to the glovebox.

Thank you for the information folks. Just for reference, a screenshot from obdeleven after today's commute.