Paws4Thot

Wait for the BITE cycle to complete before starting the engine.

Those voltages should have fried most of the electrics if accurate.

s/proof/personal account

Stop shouting!

Ok, I was taken home from Dialysis in a Kia Nero EV today. Bing Maps reports the route used as 6.5 (SIX POINT FIVE) miles. The reported available range fell by 12 miles on this trip. I also have serious doubts that it could manage 200 miles without a partial recharge, so could not go from my parents' house to mine.

@Melon From the above, your "first mistake" was changing the BLT block, head and injectors for ASZ units without also changing the ECU to an ASZ one. Everything else follows on from that decision.

There's a good chance he's right; that or the aux belt just broke, which happened to me and was under £100 part and labour.

One of the best cars I've ever travelled in.

@Ulsinus Further to @Dean above, the headlights are semi-sealed, not fully sealed. The advice is sound, if the lights are halogen units. If they're plasma discharge or LED, they never get that hot, and condensation is an ongoing thing.

There are signs on the motorway that say "$Operator Services X miles" where X is positive range 1 .. 25.

Stop it. Just stop it. If I wanted to watch these guys I'd have subscribed to them.

Camber, castor, tracking, worn "king pin" swivel(s). Need a good agent with a proper Hunter rig and reputation or equivalent to comment much further meaningfully.

Also @MikeTheThinker A stealership can also derive the specific paint code, including batch number, from the chassis number.

Well, SUK have extended the cambelt change mileage to at least 125_000.

Answers to questions like that are tied up in contract law, and you're the only person who actually has your contract. Anything anyone else says is a generalisation.

I was wondering about alternator control wires, but if the battery light appears on switch on, and goes "out" on engine start it's not them. The battery test should be free, on the understanding that you buy a new battery from the place that does it if needed.

Almost certainly. I'd start with a deep load battery check and whether or not the charge light activates correctly.

That's not what @CityScout is asking. They're asking if the blade part numbers for a right hand drive car are different to a wrong hand drive one.

That price may be correct, but it's certainly not right!

FWIW I don't remember the last time I saw an RAC patrol vehicle. The nearest AA patrolman lives about 1.3 miles from here.

There are also lots of references to "will it fit" websites.

@J.R. A "standard voltage regulator" should stop an alternator charging a lead-acid accumulator past 99% capacity. @Stonekeeper There are/were 2 main causes of cells "boiling":- Failed regulator. You'll easily find discussions of this issue on the Felicia, Favorit et al (and I think RWD) fora on this very website. Sulphonated cell(s). I've seen this and was allowed to diagnose the issue using stand-alone meters. Thank you grandpa, for supplying the devices and allowing me to self-educate, and Mr Pringle for contributing the failed battery.

Also @Choclab A quick skim on Amazon found chargers from basic but adequate for ~£16 up to CTeks at £145. I presume that for that money the CTeks have platinum cored cables?

I'd leave them until they actually fail. I've had an advisory on $item in Dec YYYY, no mention of it in Jan YYY(Y+1), and indeed in the next 5 years.

I think that'll get you a discount on recovery.