Paws4Thot

@klang180 @AGFalco @Murdockman - Ok, having the full description, the issue is basically dirty dip beam contacts on the dip switch, nothing to do with the headlight switch. You might be able to cure it with Servisal (sp) or similar contact cleaner, or it might need a new dip switch (probably special order from Czeckia).

To be clear, these are the 55w bulbs that illuminate with the green "dip" telltale, and not the 55w or 60w that illuminate with the blue "main beam" one that have failed. The green telltale has also failed?

@TinyTim My 2p; the exciter wire can break internally but otherwise look good. Have you continuity tested it yet?

Test. (failed; the image was not deinverted when quoted) Also, I'd like Klement but can't afford the attached car!

@sepulchrave literally just told you!!

@DerekU That is true as far as it goes! I have to explicitly open $member's profile to read their location and owned vehicles data fields, when they used, prior to the recent sidegrade, to be displayed by default to people who use real computers.

It would physically fit, given that both car and cluster have kph speedometers.

Yes; the most critical point is matching the rev counter range to the engine type, which you've done.

@Mxrco Is yours a Petrol or a TDi? That cluster is definitely for a TDi. So as long as you match the engine type pretty much any cluster from an Elegance, Lauren and Klemens or (v)RS should work with possibly coding in.

@fc_jams @GConn The reported issue sounds to me like a less than perfect idle stabilisation control.

Which explains why I don't advocate using DOT 5.0 except on a fully drained system. It's far to easy to get a pocket of wet DOT 3.0/4.0 (or even water) in the brake lines or wheel cylinders, which then turns into highly compressible steam at or near the brakes, and back into water by the time someone "investigates" the brakes 3 or 4 days after "the crash".

@whippersnapper I agree about Suburban Useless Vehicles. To me they always feel slightly floppy and unstable (even when a passenger).

Lots of local taxi drivers have Superbs, licensed for 4 adult passengers.

If I might suggest, OEM wheels will improve the drive over those oversize aftermarket items.

Which tells that you have a fault. Unless and until you can supply associated fault codes and the reader they were taken from that's as far as we can go.

Edit quote for clarity. 1a. Right indicator issue looks like an earth problem RHS. Bad earth on RH headlight cluster. 1b. LHSF I'd start by checking the front bulb then the earth leads associated with the LHS indicators. 2. This is for sure a separate issue to the lights. I'd start by continuity checking the wiring through the door bellows to the driver's door.

That looks like this plug is defective. It happens, but at most requires inspecting when/if you have a misfire rather than replacement of plugs every 6 months.

Join FREEDOM.

I've had similar feelings about a Honda Sickbrick (parents' car, driven with permission)

I guess you've never had an "sidedate" for Mickeysh@ft Windoze then?

You'd be spending out on devaluing your TdF.

Stupid? question. Are the outer rod ends installed upside down? Look at the compression of the rubbers.

More fool you for topping up the cooling system with hard water then.

At legal cruising speeds anywhere except Germany, you should be travelling on the petrol engine anyway. You don't need the booster motor except when accelerating.

I'd be doubtful that this will extend the life of an LED unit.