Paws4Thot

...the mass checked, but you say po-tay-toe, I say poh-tah-toe...

@docc As @Carlodiesel says, indy garage or automotive A/C specialist, not a Skoda main stealer!

In which gear(s)?

Neither do I, and it should stay there until the engine fires.

That's odd; I just opened @Graham Butcher link and it was exactly as he described. Do you actually understand the difference between a still photo and a video clip?

This suggests a damaged universal joint, probably the outer (wheel end) one. It won't show up when balancing the wheels unless you are somewhere that can do on-car balancing with an automatic gearbox (I used to know someone who could do this with manual boxes but not with automatics). The other alternative is a loose drive shaft balance weight.

@Orchid70 There is an English saying "How long is a piece of string? Twice as long as from the middle to one end!" This also applies to clutch life, complicated by driving style. There was one old lady (accurate description) in the town where I live who drove everywhere at about 4_000 rpm and got about 2_000 miles from a clutch. Compare this with the last car I was more or less sole user of, which had reached 120_000 miles on the original clutch.

I don't know Croatian consumer rights law, but in the EU and UK a new car warranty would apply and the replacement would be at no cost to you.

@RobSuf I can't be certain either way; track rod ends can sometimes be changed without changing the whole rod but it depends on whether the seized fastener is on the ball joint or the rod. Best practice would be to recheck the rear yes. You need open ended spanners, not sockets, to remove track rods. They're normally sold in sets of usual sizes which will include the one you need. I'm going to agree with @J.R. here; Change your garage, and from what you've said look for a local place with a Hunter (trade name) rig and a reputation for being able to use it.

Planetary wheels are a thing, but they're part of the interior of an automatic gearbox (see link); your photo is of a drive shaft with attached universal joints.

The last time I saw an error list like this the actual issue was a disconnected alternator control wire. Does the alternator light appear when you switch on but before you start the engine?

Based on your location, "A for Audi".

1.I'd wonder about this still. On my old Octavia TDi I'd expect high 40s to low 50s on an 11 mile 1 way extra-urban commute cruising at 50ish mph; on a 90 to 200 mile holiday tag cruising at 60<cough> mph I'd get low 60s mpg based on 200+ miles between fills. 3.And I'd not trust the computer with anything other than "distance covered". It's way too sensitive to differences in journeys for anything more. As another worked example, see the commute above. That is about half a trip I'd do 4 times a year to collect people from and drop them to the local ferry port, but when I did that my reported mpg (trip computer) could "improve" to the point where the "predicted range" at destination was about 40 miles better than when I left home to get to the port, so that gives a suggestion that the car "made" a gallon of fuel on those trips!

What is your use case? How do you measure MPG?

H1, H3 and H7 are all single filament bulbs. H3 will have a short wire connected to one terminal on the bulb.

What is "this"? @Gizmo may be correct about the washer bottle, or it may be that you are getting a warning about a seat not being locked in the upright position because it is slack. (argument based on 2 warning lights showing)

I'd check whether or not 1 or 2 of the cover bolts need retorqueing; that's usually been the cause of a weep from the rocker cover seal IME.

@TheWanderer @Warrior193 I've been unable to find a hydrocarbon called "dip(e)thane" in searches. My conclusion is "snake oil" trying to pretend it's a hydrocarbon.

Also @krisp1 - First step here is actually 10 minutes of flapperobics; get the engine hot (say 20 minute drive) then spend 10 minutes playing with all the Climatronic panel controls, particularly the temperature settings, recycle and demist control.. This has a fair chance of unsticking flaps.

As @Luckypants above.

That size VW (or Audi or Seat) discs will fit provided they have a 5x100 PCD then. Been there, done that...

Hydro-Carbon. In basic terms it's a test for an exhaust leak into the engine bay and hence ventilation system. That said, IME the mk1 human nose can detect exhaust gases being sucked into the ventilation system.

Seeing the gouge has got me wondering whether or not the wheel is warped or buckled. Do you get a rhythmic drone, changing in frequency with road speed? Do you live near a tyre fitter who has a reputation as "good"? They may be able to help you more that we can.

No idea. The brake rotor size and calliper/pad type for an Octavia TDi varies with the age and engine tune of the car, so we need more information.

I'm pretty certain that a gouge like that indicates either something sticking out from the spring just above the wheel, or the wrong size wheels fitted. What is the wheel size supplied? This will be either cast (alloy) or stamped (steel) into the wheel, probably on the inside. An example measurement (figures from my old Octavia for illustration only) would be "6.5x16 ET42 5x100 56.1".