aubrey

Isn't Autohold only for a few seconds. To allow your foot to move from the brake to the accelerator ? So my Yeti for example the car will just roll backwards after that few seconds.

You obviously never had air in the ABS unit then. I did once by running the master reservoir dry and only noticed when air splattered out the bleed nipple. I found with air in the ABS you can do a normal bleed and get a hard pedal, but immediately on engine start the pedal sinks right down. An ABS bleed was the only cure for that. You must of just had air in the far end. A pressure bleeder would of helped there too. I always use a pressure bleeder now, like in that photo earlier, they do make the task simple.

The ABS unit needs an ABS Bleed to get air out of it, if you pushed aur into the system. A pressure bleeder alone won't do it, neither will loosening the connectors on the ABS unit to bleed there too. I know that because I've tried. It was only a OBD initiated ABS Bleed procedure that did work on both my Roomster & Yeti. I don't know if with other models of ABS units it may not be required, I'm simply reporting what I found. It is not a difficult thing to do with VCDS. My Roomster needed all 4 wheels bleed nipples accessable, the Yeti only the front wheels.

Always when you change the battery you have to reset the windows. I think the procedure is all wimdows have to be shut. Then each window you wind down and hold button for a few seconds, then wind up and again hold buttin for a few seconds. That needs repeating on every window. As said it is a common windows reset thing on a battery swap.

I've used these before and they're good : https://westsidemotors.co.uk/

I have a Matika dtw300z impact, also a laser 7708 disc puller. Both tools have got me out of situations with no effort

Why would air in the lines cause the calipers to not release ? To not release means either the cakipers are binding or the brake pressure can't release in the system. If anything air in the system would help the caliper pressure release. You say opening a bleed valve releases the pressure so I agree with you in thinking the master cylinder is not letting the pressure release back into the reservoir. I assume nothing is preventing the brake pedal from fully retracting and providing a fully released pedal state to the master cylinder. In that fully released state the master cylinder should just let fluid return to the brake reservoir. Like when you use a wind back tool on the brake caliper to change pads. The fluid should rise in the brake reservoir as the calipers are wound back, the master cylinder letting the fluid flow backwards. From what you describe that would not be occurring.

Who would use a triac on a DC source ? How would you switch it off ?

This is exactly what I ordered back in 2017, says unavailable now but looks identical to ones still sold. https://amzn.eu/d/70sNlJJ

My DAB antenna was a combination of 2 aerials. DAB and AM/FM. There were infact 3 cables comimg from it, the DAB Cable, the AM/FM Cable and a 12v Power feed. The 12V was for an integrated RF Amp and I powered that from the external antenna power of my android unit, that was 12v when the unit was turned on. On the android units the DAB and AM/FM connections are separate, I've no idea if the OEM units are separate or combined. Is it even possible to combine them ? GPS I've never had problems with the GPS antennas you just throw behind the units on install, but an external one can only be better. I've put GPS antennas behind A Pillers before at the top. I also had to get some Fakra adapters at headunit end but you'd obviously get whatever connector adapters are required to your needs. You can come down either A Piller, the glove box comes out easily if required, it really doesn't make much difference. Obviously cable tie your new wires along to the existing cabling, don't squeeze the roof drains, and not infront of or around the air bags.

I didn't get on with the windscreen type. I live in London and it worked fine in town, but often DAB broke up in the countryside. It was perfect with the roof antenna. Fitting was not hard. I had the glass roof, so antenna was at the rear. Open up the tailgate and right at the rear of the roof lining there are a few plastic rivets. Try as much as I did, they did snap on removal. But I just used other push in plastic rivet fittings afterwards. But pop those rear rivets out and you can pull the lining down enough to get a spanner on and swap antennas. You can pull off door trim rubber at the top to feed cable forward and down an A Piller. If your antenna is at the front then I've never done them but have read access is behind the reading light.

Does that not cause over torque, due to decreased friction ? More pressure on the bolt and seat ?

What car system are you using with Android Auto ? I had loads of issues with the factory Bolero unit. It kept dropping the AA connection. So annoying when your driving with GoogleMaps and then it goes. I did all the get new usb cables, phone reinstalls etc. Looking back when I first got the Yeti in 2019, I paid for the SmartLink activation and AA did work fine, so why it all just started to play up after a few years was odd. I did suspect some firmware issue, was it my phone with its own OS and AA updates. All I knew is the oem Bolaro setup with Smartlink became unreliable. In the end I replaced the infotainment unit with an AliExpress double din android unit, one of the more expensive ones as I wanted to avoid any lagging or poor screen resolution models. I still use AA, now even wirelessly and I've had no issues since.

That looks like the one I used on my old Roomster 1.9 PD engine. I wrote a guide on that task in the Roomster Guides area. That's the correct one for your engine is it ? I only had a cheap one and never had any issues. You only actually need the crankshaft locking bit, the bit with the wide black rectangular geared curve on it. The top camshaft lock pin a 6mm drill bit will suffice too. Similar with the aux belt tensioner.

Yes, my AA does the same. I'm using wireless AA and I do believe that uses Wifi and Bluetooth. I often get issues with phone calls and AA switching to my personal Bluetooth headphones at home, when the wife has the car, and onto the home WiFi network as I pull into my drive. TBH it's just something I've got used to when I'm on top of my house. AA may well operate differently if your phone is USB cable connected to your head unit. Glad the media playing issue sorted out.

on your phone if you go into Android Auto Settings there is a slider to Start Media Automatically. Is that on ? Shown at the bottom here:

@tankman have you done an all module scan of your car, does that show any fault codes, even intermittent ones ? What electrical gremlins are you experiencing ?

Should be just reset the clock time. I've been told if you have gps (factory satnav) then it picks up the time from that. You'll have a fault light on first start, but a quick drive round the block with some full lock to lock turns will clear that. No radio code issue, that's paired with the dash ecu and automatically authenticates. All you'll lose is your trip milage.

Been bitten long ago, now I never order pads or discs without having a quick look first. Measuring disc diameter and getting an idea of pad shape & any identifying ears on them. Even a rough diameter measure with a rule looking through an alloy wheel can often narrow down options.

I meant a socket bit, as I've always used a torque wrench.

I've never worked on a Kamiq, but every VAG vehicle I have changed brakes on has been a 7mm hex. An annoying size that is never in tool sets and I had to obtain as a 1 off.

Is the problem though your brakes will be fine, Until the water content causes the fluid to boil. That water becomes gas and you lose brake pressure, hence lose brakes. So all is fine until heavy braking is required.

Never knew that. I don't have the factory SatNav, so it was no GPS for me. Does that mean you don't have to do the manual hour plus and hour minus in march/october for GMT/BST like I do if you have GPS ?

Done a few VAG battery swaps. All you lose is the time and trip milage. So not a big issue really. You will get the fault light on first time, but a quick drive round the block with some lock to lock steering turns clears that. Hence all you have to do is set the time again afterwards. You can keep a 12v feed if you want, make sure the key remains off if you attempt that as the fuse on that can blow with the ignition on power draw. I know that as it happened to me when I tried an OBD one. Also thinking in retrospec on this, confirm your 12v backfeed method does have 12v normally with the key off. No point backfeeding to a power disconnected connection. Personally I now don't bother because as said you only need to re-input the clock time. Also if adding an external power feed you need to be careful with that +12v Battery wire you remove, as it would be at that +12V and don't let it touch any Metalwork.

That is true, you only need to do an ABS bleed if you got air into the ABS unit. So when you changed the rear calipers did you lose much fluid while the brake line was disconnected ? To have any chance of air getting into the ABS wouldn't you of had to of run the master cylinder reservoir dry - did you ? Personally I did run my reservoir dry once, not paying attention while bleeding, only noticing when air splattered out of the bleed nipple and not fluid. That's why I said is the pedal hard high up when the engine is off, but sinks right down on engine start. A little sink is normal, an inch or so, I'm on about a big drop. That is the symptoms I had, symptoms which doing a VCDS Brake Bleed immediately eradicated.